Well basically when u have first start in the morning, a cold start... from under the bonnet of my gf Mazda 3 and also in the car i can hear a metalic ratle noise for about 1 minute... When u touch the accelerator its getting bit more noise... That's the metal chain rubbing the cover cause its loose. After a minute the nose is gone when the chain settles down till the next morning... It means that your timing chaine is loose or timing tensioner is bad. In both cases all. Of the timing components needs replacing... I'm gonna wait until that noise gonna become bit more pernament cause its cost a lot. Of money to replace it. And the car has got only 84 k miles... My Honda accord. Has got 125 k miles and I have no problem with the chain what so ever 😊

Oh yeah and I'm gonna add that in Poland in Mazda garage they wanna charge me 1000 bucks for org. Parts and labourer costs 😝

For people who aren't super attuned to their engine making an unusual noise, it's best to treat the chain like a belt and service it at regular intervals. Belts give no warning before they fail. Chains usually do, but it's subtle. It doesn't sound like a knock, because a knock is at the speed of the piston moving up and down. It's more like a rattle that gets quieter as you hit the gas and louder as you lift off (because the chain gets pulled tighter when the engine is revving up). If this sign is ignored, the next, if your lucky, would be the chain skipping a tooth. This will make the problem immediately apparent because the engine will run poorly. However, there is no guarantee that the chain will skip only one tooth. It's possible for the chain to go from rattling to failing completely. When the chain is loose it is very rough on the sprockets. If you break only one tooth, you might get the chain to skip a tooth, but the damage could easily be more catastrophic. The people who are laughing are the people with non-interference engines, because on those, if the chain or belt breaks, the engine stops, but you only need to replace the chain or belt. They can afford to wait and see. But very, very few engines made in the past few decades are non-interference, because a non-interference engine can be efficient OR powerful, not both. FWIW $1900 is a very fair dealer price. Dealers are usually 2x the price of an independent mechanic, and I can't imagine any independent mechanic would be willing to do it for less than $1000. Cars where the engine points the correct way (timing in front by the radiator) are easier to do this job on. When the engine is sideways, you have to detach the engine from its mount and support it from above or below just to get access.

@@ravenandthestranger cheers for letting me know bud

If youre worried about CX-7 maintenance get the 2.5 not the 2.3 turbo. Get the timing chain done and you have an engine that's gonna give you another 100k miles no problem with just oil changes. The 2.5 is one of the most durable engines mazda has ever made.

I am wondering too. They are hardened steel but I don't think that removing it and installing it should make it any less hard, unless it was stuck and you had to use a torch to get it out. I have done timing changes on many cars and never replaced the bolt. Well ok I did on a 250k mile prelude once but that's because the previous owner overtightened the bolt and it broke off when we tried to remove it... then we had to drill out hardened steel. Not fun. I'll defer to these guys if they have a better explanation, but generally I would say no, on most engines, so long as the bolt comes out without a fuss, it can be re-used.

Yeah for 140,000km it looks in terrible condition.

The problem is not the chain, it's oil dilution or socalled "long life oil" causing extreme chain wear. Mercedes (diesel), BMW and Volkswagen/Audi have (had) the same troubles.There are many Mazda 2.2 on the market with over 200'000km still running fine.

@@christianschaich9090 - yes modern engines with fuel under high pressure direct injection gets past the rings and dilutes the engine oil - as I said missed oil changes does not help - in today's engines you cannot miss oil changes

@@majorrgeek In addition, people in the EC must use biodiesel B7 (green diesel) which cannot evaporate out of the oil. It's hard to find pure diesel that is not 'infected' with biodiesel.

The aftermarket warranty will cover what it says it will cover. You have to read it. There is no universal standard for aftermarket warranties. Technically they aren't warranties, because only a manufacturer can offer a warranty. They are technically "extended service contracts", which means when the vehicle needs service or repair over a certain stretch of time, the company offering you the ESC is responsible to pay for the parts and labor (usually minus a deductible). What services and repairs are covered depends on what aftermarket ESC you paid for when you bought the car (if the dealer says they threw it in for free, they didn't, they just reduced the sale price of the car by the price of the ESC). Regarding water pumps, often people get the water pump replaced with the timing belt/chain because the mechanic is already in there and it isn't much extra labor to have it done. However, whether or not it is important to do so depends on the design of your engine. Sometimes you have to take the timing belt/chain off to replace a water pump. In that case, it is silly to replace your timing belt/chain without the pump, because you'd have to take the timing belt/chain off anyway to get at the water pump - and once you do so you may as well replace the timing belt/chain. If you look at the 4 cylinder engine shown here, this is not the case. The timing cover does not cover the water pump, and you can get at the water pump and replace it without nearly as much labor as a timing chain replacement. If you pause at 2:58 you can see the water pump on this engine is mounted outside the timing cover. So if it were me doing the work, I would not bother with the water pump. However, you say you have a CX-9. If I'm not mistaken the CX-9 is a V6. It seems to be much more common on a V6 that the water pump is behind the timing cover, probably because the timing chain has a longer path to travel on a V engine. Look up videos on how to replace the water pump for your car. If they take the timing cover off, then probably you should get a new water pump when the chain service is done. If they don't, then it's not so important.

dont use Liqui Molly to flush the engine...it causes the oil leak on my Mazda 6

There is NO reason to run liquid moly in the Mazda engine .. people get 150-200000 miles on good quality oil ... Also Mazda in the owner's manual recommends Against oil additives on their motors

Ish? I mean sure if you JUST do a belt its easier than a chain. But I've made the mistake of replacing belts without replacing the camshaft seals twice, never again. You have to pull the cam sprockets to replace the cam seals anyway. True, the timing belt doesn't eat away at the sprocket so you may be able to put the old ones back, but on the other hand a timing belt gives you no warning if something is wrong, and a chain does. 50/50 to me. If you're doing the job right, a chain and a belt should be about the same difficulty to service.

Chain

They say 60,000K

You have absolutly No clue about Cars....

@@ownedlbylarmy8106 I been working on cars since they had carburetors. Timing chains should last the life of ur car or truck at least that's my experience. I replaced 1 timing chain due to the vehicle skipping time

Well that's disheartening to hear, as a relatively new Mazda 2 2011 owner. I purchased from my sister for a fair price, and from my research on the vehicle it's a decent car..what are your reasons behind your assessment of Mazdas?

My CX7 has 279k miles. Engine has never been opened. It has had a rattle on the timing side of the engine for the last 75k, but it just a heat shield. No leaks, no smoke, still uses the same 1/2 quart every 5k that it did when it was new. Still gets 26-28 mpg like when it was new. Only “major” repair was a passenger side CV axle. It was just a torn boot at about 260k, but due to the mileage I did the whole axle. It took me a couple hours and under $200. Original alternator, water pump, fuel pump, steering and suspension components (except sway bar links). I’ve had it 10 years and it’s the best car I’ve ever had. 2010 CX7 2.5. I wouldn’t go for the turbo 2.3. That was the one that seemed to have issues.

The Mazda of today is NOT the same company it was from 1995-2014 or so. Ford owned a large stake in Mazda and had a LOT of influence over their engines, platforms, and marketing - basically, Ford put a choke collar on what was once a highly innovative automaker. I can say this as I owned a 1997 626 which was one of the most "Ford-like" cars in Mazda's lineup and was easily the WORST vehicle I have EVER owned! I also own a 1994 Miata which, fortunately, was designed and built by Mazda with little input from Ford. After Ford divested itself from Mazda in 2015, Mazda has been absolutely SLAYING the competition in terms of quality, design, performance, and engineering. I was still very much against Mazda until I first drove my girlfriend's 2016 CX-5 with nearly 100,000 miles on it - the CX-5 is extremely athletic, has been reliable, and easy to maintain for her. I liked it so much, I bought a new 2022 CX-5 and I am convinced that Mazda knows what the hell they're doing. All the engines with timing chain issues are the older Ford/Mazda MZR engine - the Skyactiv series of engines have no known issues that I am aware of (please tell me if I'm wrong - I've been looking for common issues and have come up with nothing so far). The Skyactiv engines are used in all Mazda products designed after 2013 or so, and have proven themselves to be bulletproof and easy to maintain.

@@bbishoppcm Mazda's new engines seem to be pretty good... but like all cars after 2015 or so they went to direct injection. The problem here isn't necessarily reliability, it's part complexity and cost. Maybe it doesn't matter to people who can't tell a spanner from a torque wrench, but if you fix your own cars and are used to $35 fuel injectors and $100 water pumps and $25 thermostats... you're gonna hate owning every car made after 2012 or so. Electric water pumps can be $500. Direct injectors can be $300 each. And don't get me started on electronic thermostats. As a grease monkey myself, I'd much rather own a 2.5 MZR than the newer ones. Sure, it may need more attention paid to specific issues, but most of what goes wrong with it I could fix without a vehicle lift and snap-on tools, and the parts won't cost an arm and a leg. I predict that in 2030 the ownership cost of a 2015 Mazda 6 will be much more than a 2010 Mazda 6.