What I learned from this video is that electricians make more than me.

As my father says “you never stop making mistakes, a wise man always learns from them”

Sorry Wranglerstar but electrical inspection=fail. You connected the EGC (ground terminal) of the receptacle to the neutral in the panel. You should have used a green conductor instead of a white one and connected it the EGC bus on the left side of the panel. BTW that's FMC (flexible metallic conduit) not MC cable.

There is no neutral ( white) in the 240 v circuit ... the second leg of 120 is the return path Should have pulled a green ground wire through the flex and attach it to the ground bus bar

Your panel appears to have separate ground and neutral bars, as it should being a sub-panel. If it’s a straight 240v welder your ground wire is the wrong color and connected to the wrong place in the panel. If it’s a 120/240v welder you are missing a ground wire. Either way, it’s a fail.

If this gets inspected by a legitimate inspector it will fail. You cannot use a white wire as a ground wire. It must be green or bare copper. You are doing a great job but if people are watching you to learn they need to be taught the proper way. No biggy, just correct it and tell people about the mistake.

Don't use 10 gauge for a welder extension cord on a 50 amp circuit. It's cheaper to buy a 8 gauge extension cord than to build one yourself.

I am a 13-year-old that has watched almost every single one of your videos. You have taught me so much keep doing what you do

A lot of people would edit out their mistakes. But keeping them in will let us know what to watch out for 👍

Thats a ground not a neutral and it should be green.

As an electrician myself I say good job Cody. Good instruction and camera angles. A few notes to consider for everybody. There is no nuetral(white). There is a green ground in its place that goes on the bar in the panel where the other grounds are going. Sometimes this is the same bar as the white neutrals and sometimes it’s a separate ground only bar. MC(metal clad cable) is a preassembled cable, meaning it has wires pre installed. So you actually had 1/2” flexible metal conduit. To be code it needs to be fastened with a strap to the wall within 12” of each termination into a box or panel, and at intervals within 4.5’ between these terminations. In that conduit you could use #8 thhn wire but, in nmb cable use #6. Up sizing wire is not a bad idea though on the welder. Otherwise spot on. Safety thoughts I highly recommend to viewers. Have good dependable battery lighting going first. Then turn off the main breaker with the panel cover still on. Wear gloves, preferably rubberized. Now carefully remove the cover. You can hold the cover by the top of the open door as you remove the last screw. I like a cordless drill for all the screw activities for this entire task. If a screw drops to the floor just forget about it until the cover is safely off. When install is complete, resecure the cover and all covers over any exposed wire before turning on the breakers. Even stand to the side of the panel when resetting the breakers if desired. Final note is to remember that even with the main breaker off the wire feeding the main still is energized I don’t nick it or touch the exposed terminals of that breaker. This is not “difficult” but please be safe and take your time.

The reason an electrician is called is because of a thing called "duty cycle" in the NEC. Amperage of the welder and wire size are not the full story.

It appears you have a 4 wire sub panel in your garage. It all looks good except you should have ran that "ground wire" over to the ground bar, not the neutral bar.

As an electrician when I see the word “hack” on an electrical video I get scared

Can we all take a moment to appreciate the loctite animation in the end?

I’ve always recommended friends to instal an L14-30 twist lock in their garages. It’s the twist lock equivalent to a dryer plug, and it’s far far the most useful plug out there. It’s the same 4pin twist lock that is on 95% of small generators. Becuase it has 2 legs and a neutral, you can plug just about anything into it, so long as it draws less than 30 amps of course

Funny the circumstances that we eat our words. Cody criticizes the previous electricians workmanship installing the panel and the "looks" of things and instals the shodiest looking work of the whole panel. I know he's gonna "replace" it. Just funny irony.

My 2c For 50A outlets, there doesn't seem to be much commonly available for the twist lock gear, but for 30A and below, the 3-pin dryer-type plug is a step backward - better off with 4-pin (2 hots, neutral, ground) NEMA twist lock gear. That way, you can plug in (and quickly! - removing the dryer type plugs is hard) any equipment you like into it that runs 120, 240, 240 + neutral, etc. Nag: Also as many others have pointed out, your need at minimum to hook up what is functioning as your ground wire to the correct ground bus, and either tape it with green tape on either end to indicate that it it's purpose, or replace the line with green sheathed wire.

Awesome video, I’m an electrician, and maybe would have done things a little different, but I admit, I have a LOT of temporary thing around my place. I’ve even given them a name, Temporary Permanent. Again thanks for all the great content. PS: when I shut power off to a panel, I ALWAYS double check and test there is no power to it before I start shoving my hand in there. Aloha!

I was laughing so hard at the end of the video where he put antlers on the loctite

Just a few suggestions or possibly helpful pieces of information if you will. If you notice the screw in the plug you landed the neutral on is green and is so because it’s intended for a ground wire and not a neutral. Most anything that requires 240v does not require a neutral, minus some oddball motor loads. I also took notice in the fact that none of the other branch circuits coming out of your panel (breaker box) have a grounding conductor in their conduit. Non of which meets NEC requirements. It is your property so I won’t presume to tell you what/how to do your things, would just like to point out the aforementioned details. Love your videos though! Keep up the good work!

The red coated lockdeers are migrating early his year.

Nice vid. But raised some questions for me. I am no pro electrician but I believe that normal 240V has 2 live conductors and a ground. No neutral. You do seem to mix up neutral and ground a bit throughout. Not the same thing. The neutral is intended for 120V split phase. Your 3rd wire should be green and connected directly to the ground bar, not to the neutral bar, AFAIK. Yes, the 120 neutral and ground are ultimately connected together someplace, maybe in your panel, but functionally they play a different role at the user level. Especially safety wise in case of a problem. The color coding is not just a trivial annoying convention, it may save you and other people from trouble at some point. It's not like your system will explode the first time you use it, not by a long shot, but personally, I would try to build it fully correctly, to be safer down the line. And this is actually interesting stuff to figure out.

Did you read my mind? I just moved into a new house with a shop and was going to look up how to put a 240 in my shop for welding lol

We have a right... if we get a permit... lol.. If you need permission to do something.. it is illogical to think you had a right to do it..

If the welder has a 4 wire hookup id upgrade the recep and cord. Grounding is one of the most important things. Also keeping ground and neutrals separate in subpanels. Ya don't want current running through your ground wire that can go to equipment and possibly shock and harm yourself. Electricity will take any and all paths back to its source. Hope that was helpful! I love your videos!!

How long was the home run to the electrical panel? Just saying $1500 is meaningless without context.

The neutral or white wire is actually acting as a ground, should have ran a green wire for the ground instead.

EXPERT -- One who has made many mistakes.

FYI that’s metal flex (aluminum or steel) not M/C cable. M/C is essentially mental flex with relevant wire size and number of wires. Yes white is a neutral but you used it for a ground so it should be green. Sometimes a neutral is required, neutral being always white. Ground is always green. Just a couple pointers, nothing against the video!

Did notice that the breaker you used doesn’t match the panel might not be UL listed the the application seimens panel cutler-hammer breaker

The ground should be green. There is no neutral

Nice video, but just a few things about it I’ll clue you in on. That isn’t MC Cable, it’s actually flexible metallic conduit, we often refer to as greenfield at least down where I’m at. MC is similar to FMC but has wire already in it and most of the time smaller in diameter. Another thing is that while the two hot wire color are good, the third where you added the white is actually a ground not a neutral since it’s a 240 volt only circuit not a 120/240 volt circuit for instance like and range or stove is a 120/240 volt circuit since the burners use 240 volts while the electronic components like the digital clock and timers run on 120 volts. Which is why newer construction and wiring started using 4 wire receptacles and plugs versus the older 3 wire version where they used the ground as a neutral, but that’s another story. And last thing is the size wire you use depends on the type wire of cable you use, most residential areas use romex so you would be right in the 50 amp breaker sizing to use a number 6 awg wire, but since you did happen to run a conduit and use THHN single conductors like you did you can very well use a number 8 awg wire if you so chose to given that it’s not a great distance to the receptacle from the panel. I mentioned this because the wire type you used I’m referring to the NEC table 310.15(B)(16) for ampacity rating of wire or cables for different insulation types in three different temperature ratings measured in degrees Celsius, 60, 75, and 90. There are only two types that most residential residents deal with that romex which is the type that you see most of that comes in cable for etc. 14/2, 12/3 and so forth. And the other type is THHN which is dual rated THHN/THWN these are bought in the big box stores and both have a insulation rating of 90 degree Celsius, but the romex ampacity is while rated for 90 is limited to the 60 degree Celsius column which means a smaller current for a given wire size. But THHN/THWN Cable can use the 75 or 60 degree column depending on the size Wire and application of use. And the for the most part you are stuck with using the 60 degree column for wire sizes 10 awg and smaller except certain things like motors, and central air conditioners in a residential setting according to uf I’m not mistaken article 240 in the NEC. But for the most part 14 awg for 15 amps, 12 awg for 20 amps, and 10 awg for 30 amps most always. But that’s just a lil info thrown your way. If you are using conduit and using THHN you can use 8 awg for 50 amps but if using regular black romex without conduit number 6 awg is needed. But bigger wire can be used, that’s just if you wanted to save a few pennies. I didn’t mean to get too technical with it. Keep doing videos, and have a great day.

I did the same thing, I put an outlet right inside my garage and I also made a 40 foot extension cord because my garage was too full to really weld in without pulling stuff out so I could get to the other side of the garage or out in the driveway or under my carport with it. Pretty much exactly The set up you made and I absolutely loved it. When I moved I brought the extension with me and still have it, and I chose the same plug like you did, it’s just much simpler than trying to deal with all the ridiculous plug options. Lol I just asked an electrician what gauge wire I would need and they had it at my local building supply store, it was a little expensive but worth every penny in the end.

Did any other electricians notice the white wire landed where the ground should have gone.

It would be a good idea to bond your flex to the ground bus in the panel. I believe the white wire should be green and terminated on the ground bus instead of the neutral bus. Good work and it’s good to see people try to figure these things out themselves. Respect

Our cost doubles when we come fix what a homeowner messed up. LOL oh and the 3/4 greenfield we just bend until it breaks then cut and trim with side cutters. Much quicker than finding the saw. And you have to install a green ground in flex. It cannot be used as a ground.

Learning how to do electrical work from someone that’s not an electrician is amazing! Next time I need to go to the dentist I think I’ll just ask my mechanic to look at my teeth instead!

Impressive herd at the end. LOL

I was getting a drink of water when the locktight deer came across the field. I almost spit it out. That was thanks.

Jack of all trades, master of... not electricity. 240v welder should have a green ground wire going to the left side ground busbar in your sub-panel, not the white "neutral" connected where it is -that ties back to your main panels neutral.

Where to start on the NEC disaster you filmed... 1. That's not 'MC Cable', it's Flexible Metallic Conduit or FMC. 2. A 3-prong outlet is a 240V outlet, not a 120/240V, so the middle prong is a ground, not neutral. Note the brass rivet connecting the terminal to the enclosure. Hope you don't have a phase imbalance, otherwise you might want to avoid touching that conduit. 2a. Because you put a white wire on the receptacle's ground terminal, you connected the other end to the wrong terminal in the panel. 2b. It looks like you don't have a neutral bonding jumper in the panel, assuming this is a sub-panel, so good luck on that ground path. 3. Using 10/3 rubber cord with 50A devices on it exceeds the rating of the cable. 4. You didn't put any conduit straps on your excessively long FMC run. 5. The welders and equipment that you connect to this plug need to have a MOCP (maximum overcurrent protection) rating of 50A. A 30A piece of equipment won't, so you aren't protecting it appropriately.

Nothing like seeing the morning Loctite come up over the mountain and the Loctite deer running across the field such a beautiful site

I want to see the video of inspection day and the ground is a white wire hooked the neutral bar. Please save lives by not doing anymore how to electrical hack videos.

"How to make things ugly and unprofessional as possible"

Uploaded 2 minutes ago? Just intime for me to watch while i wash up 😁 nothing beats a wranglerstar vlog while your doing the boring chores. Stay safe and god bless

I am not an electrician so take my comments with a grain of salt. #1, for the safety of your viewers, please begin videos about working with high voltage in sub panels with these safety protocols...shut off power at the main panel not just at the sub panel, then, test for voltage with a voltmeter before sticking your hands in that sub panel with the cover off. #2, in addition to the 50 amp (NEMA 6-50) outlet you have installed, I suggest that you mount another 240 outlet fused at 30 amps (NEMA 6-30) for the 10 gauge extension cord you will be running as you never know when an unsuspecting person might someday plug a 40 or 50 amp device thru that 10 gauge wire which is rated 30 amps max.

You put the receptacle on the wall upside down

Don't put an electrical box on the end of an extension cord if you have any employees, anyone else using your shop, or kids...it's a bad idea.

My dad used to say " learn from other's mistakes ". Thanks for sharing yours. Awesome video, as usual.

The image is good. I could tell a difference even before you mentioned having a new camera.

The biggest mistake one can make is denying making a mistake. Pens and pencils have erasers for reasons, even my keyboard has a backspace key.

When setting up your air compressor, I would consider running pex to outlets around the shop. Me and my dad ran pex to quick connect outlets every 20 feet in the barn and it has made a huge difference. No more 100 foot hoses getting tangled and tripping over them. Eliminating annoyances when working is half the battle. Just some food for thought :)

10 gauge is only rated for 30 amps you need to upgrade that wire

Thanks Cody. Wired up my shop welder plug years ago, but I do indeed find being able to use my welder in my shop and wheel it anywhere in the building entertaining.

I just converted two hots and a neutral to two hots and a ground. I was happy to see the ground wire capped off in the box when I opened it up. I checked to make sure it was actually grounded. All done for $15 in the wall and bought a $50 25’ 50A extension cord.

Being arrogant as a profession (electricians) is one thing. But not having respect and have a minimum understanding for electricity is arrogant too. Guess what is most dangerous?

Where were you during “The Great Loctite Migration of 2020”?

The image is really excellent. I like that even though I’ve wired tons of these types of power supplies, I still enjoyed watching you do it. Your so right twist locks were invented in a hot and dark place.

Lineman’s are useful for a lot, it’s just something that you don’t realize as much outside of the field.

Definitely a “hack”.....

Cody, PLEASE ground that circuit.

You should use fiber bushings on the ends of the armored conduit. The cut ends of the conduit are sharp and could pierce the insulation. Fiber bushings protect somewhat against this and I believe you're supposed to use them according to code.

Just an FYI on the reasons for Twist Locks, they have their purpose, especially in industry where a good majority of the time, they are used in vertical drops where one does not wish for mating plug/receptacle becoming accidentally disengaged causing safety hazards or machine damage. The reason for the many styles & patterns has to do with the voltage variations achievable with a three phase system be it 120, 240, 480 , the conductor sizing & number of conductors needed to carry necessary current for supplying specific machine electrical specs. which can call for 3, 4, or 5-wire configurations . Twist locks are not generally used for residential applications.

What is a "professional home owner"? and how do you get paid for it?

I can tell you're not an electrician 😂

I know you get a lot of know-it-alls when you do your own work. However, as an electrical contractor/master electrician I have one tip for you. Going forward, do not rely on the metallic conduit as a ground path. I have seen more problems (electrocutions) in shop settings because of not having a ground wire ran with the circuits. If your metallic conduit is done perfectly, you should be fine on 20 and 30 amp circuits...but conduit (especially flexible conduit) has a maximum overcurrent device rating when relying on it for an adequate ground path. Check the National Electrical Code. As a rule, we always run a green ground in all raceways...because we never know if the mechanical conduit connections in a workshop will always be 100% since they are exposed. We like to have the ground conductor as the main path in case the conduit connections are ever damaged. Shops and garages especially. Also, you can go with #8 for 50 amp as long as it is not NM cable (Romex). #8 THHN or THWN is rated at 55 amps unless you have some local code ammendment that says otherwise. I will say that you do a really good job though with what I have seen...and yes, Twist-Lok receptacles are a headache for us too. Nothing wrong with ditching them if you can.

The R5 looks great! Although for the cost (and for 1080 video), I wonder if it’s 10 times better than my M50? Nice job. -Ed

Why would you put this up here? You shouldn’t be putting that ground that’s white for some reason on the neutral bar in a sub panel.

It gets cringe every time this guy does electrical work. That 10 wire is not suite able for protection by a 50 amp breaker. Why would you use #6 to the outlet and then step it down to an unsuitable and potentially dangerous size down stream? The idea of all those different twist-locks is that you don’t plug something into a receptacle with inappropriate over current protection!

you might need to up that service there running a panel with a 50 amp off a 60 amp panel might not work out too well in the long run..... just something to keep in mind if you're doing more than just welding in the shop at once

Technically it should be a green wire for ground but either works just not as kosher this way

I like your 'mountain fresh' Loctite graphic there at the end.

Morning from aus cody! You get my days started!

Your shop might might meet the same NEC requirements as a garage. 2020 NEC requires GFCI for all 240 vac recepticles in the garage. Also, there is a separate code section for welders and figuring their required current. Everyone check your local requirements and stay safe.

If you did pull a permit fix the following ... The white wire needs to be green and go to the ground bar, There needs to be a plastic bushing on the connector going into the panel as a anti short for wires Also the knock out hole on panel you used had a ring left over and is not allow to be a ground for the circuit because its pre punched , not solid and must have a special ground ring on fitting or a ground wire in conduit. Changing the white wire to green covers the fact that FMC conduit requires a ground wire. The breaker and wire size were a good choice, although those are based on the duty cycle of the welder and might have been smaller. Check extension cord sizing pre breaker size and duty use.

Video quality is noticeably better. Also I am in love with the new shop! You've done an amazing job of creating a great backdrop... oh yeah and its pretty functional too! Still thinking about you and your family, praying y'all get through the tough times you're facing soon.

I do hope everything is ok Cody I sense something is troubling you when you ask us to pray for you I certainly will be I don’t wish to know anymore but trust me, you and your family are in my thoughts take care friend

If you plan on making a long cord, 6/3SOOW is available at most electrical supply houses. Minimizes voltage drop.

So, now when my wife says I’m wasting time on KZfaq, I can tell her I’m eliminating obstacles because Wranglerstar pioneered the way for me. She’s gonna be so relieved!

For what feels like the 100th time, stop making electrical videos. And start understanding the price difference between material and labor is countless hours of experience and knowledge gained in both the field and classrooms. You sir, are not providing knowledge, but rather creating the potential for disaster.

This is the last time I do this, oh I'll just temp this in lol love the content as always!

That gave me a good chuckle when you said, "...see, you're not wasting time on KZfaq at all..." I do feel guilty sometimes, but I'm guessing I'm not the only one.

You should get a square tip screw drive for working in the panel, I'm also a professional home owner but I love the way it fits the screws better than the crappy flat head design

Image seems dark, anyone else? Scenes are usually brighter to me.

Almost shot tv when all the racks where going by.

I'm a sparky and yes we have way way way way too many different 220V receptacle styles here in the US. I am tempted to start using the euro style in my shop. They are bulky but very well made and designed and far cheaper than the overpriced ones that are the norm here. You will see them used for equipment at Mc Donalds here in the US.

We’ve been replacing them at the factory I’m an electromechanical Tech at because the twist locks have almost caused multiple fires.

I remember the days when vast herds of loctites roamed these hill!

looks like flexible conduit, not MC cable.

Was fully expecting those loctites to start flying with a Santa sleigh at the end.

Living in not-the-USA for a few years really shed some light on how lucky we are to do work on things that we own, and accept consequences if we screw up; the government should give us the right to risk getting electrocuted if WE decide to try something.

My late uncle used to say..”There’s nothing more permanent than something temporary”..😁Keep up the good work Cody, we’re with ya!

Hello from a wet night in Ireland Cody 🇮🇪

Any body notice the frayed strands on that neutral when he put it in the neutral bar?

During the last housing boom, I could not find an electrician willing to relocate a 240V receptacle for my welder. So I had to do it myself. Wish you tube had been around. In 40 years of professional home ownership never messed with 240. The pro charged your buddy $1600! DIY is worth the risk.

I am also NOT an electrician. I’m almost positive you should not have hooked a white wire up to the neutral bar. You should have hooked a green wire to the grounding bar. I think neutral or common is only used for 120v.

As an electrician, I won't respond.....🤦🏻‍♂️

I was going to say the image is crazy good on this video. 1500 dollars for hooking up a plug is crazy I got mine hooked up for like 200 dollars.

Hi I’m a master electrician from Alberta,that green screw in the plug is for ground wire.your welder will work because the neutral buss is connected to the system ground.