Good job Kenny, and you do a good job of explaining what and why you are doing it.

I love your idea about sniping the end holes on gasket, bravo...

What a pleasure it is to watch an expert at work. I particularly like how you explain what it is you’re doing. Thank you for your time.

The doorman. A previous good co.went to chinnna, now complete junk! No more doorman for me. Only dealer parts, they're bad enough. Good show Ken.

I believe those are fel pro exhaust gaskets that you would get from autozone or advanced auto. I had a set of those because I was doing work on my Silverado and I lost 1 of the factory gaskets when I was putting everything together. I eventually bought the oem gm ones because I’ve never had a problem with them like you said.

You can use a heating inductor - has different size tips that can go in the front - work really good

Hey, good morning Kenny.... as it's 1:11 am 😆. Replacing both manifolds at same time???? Agreed. Extra cost now; prevents extra, EXTRA costs, down the road. Usually on 90s thru 2000s gm and fords, symptoms are a time delayed mirror on these manifolds, and plug threads on fords. Good show sir.

Good morning Mr Kenny hope y'all have a wonderful day

Good job kenny, but as for those manifold rear flange ports being under size and the fault threads, I would have returned them to the supplier.

I had to drop the y pipe on my 04 Envoy 5.3 to replace the starter two years ago. It's been a New Hampshire vehicle for most of the 20 years so I wire brushed the manifold studs and nuts then applied PB multiple times over a week before and after driving until the starter wouldn't respond to a whack from a digging bar. Did the same with the O2 sensors as I replaced those too and everything came apart rather easily with regular propane. For a new $29 starter I must say I'm impressed with the quality. 11.8 mpg not so much.

Thanks brother Kenny! Great video with lots of helpful tips.

Another job well done. After watching you , I would not hesitate to do it on my own. Thanks for the video!

those old manifolds look like stalactites that grew from the cylinder heads lol

Hey thanks you made it look easy

Just goin' along enjoying and learning when 12 min in bam my name comes up !...blew me away...also that light I sent has a spot.. don't know how effective though ...glad you found some good uses for it !

17:15 about finding them super thin metal splinters, if you have a tig with a variable pedal, you can use the arc on a super low setting to find the splinter, it will act like a lighting rod and the arc will go right for it. The guy who taught me how to tig weld aluminum and stainless showed me that

NIce work! I am a bit curious why you chose to reuse the old manifold bolts that are prone to breaking? I usually go for a new set of factory ones or a set of class 12.9's from the hardware store when i do 4.8/5.3/6.0 manifolds. This video also illustrates that saving money on parts can just shift it to added labor to "fix" said parts so that they will do what you need them to do...

@ 18:07 ----> metal shards on yer clothes ..... we'll have to schedule an MRI to clean that up !! 🤣🤣

Some years ago I changed rt side ex. Manifold on 5.4 Ford. It felt heavy too. I had to grind inside ports to get enough exhaust i.d. to work properly. Inside casting was very poor size wisd.

Very handy bolt tips!

Good job Kenny, nice work.

You did a really great job changing those out. I guess after doing 42,000 of them, you make it look simple. My only question is, can you use the regular type donut gaskets to bolt the manifold to the exhaust pipe? I ask because that is what I would have done instead of reaming those holes out like you did. So I would have set myself up for a fail, I guess. Back in the day they worked fine.

I've used a Range Technologies AFM delete obd plug-in for about 50k miles now, works great and zero mpg drop. Never a CEL. The only thing to remember is (at least on my 2011 5.3) is to unplug it and allow drive cycles to ensure all emissions monitors are ready. For some reason the RT plug-in doesn't let all 1 or 2 monitors to set so they show as not ready when its vehicle inspection time. No big deal.

Whenever I worked on the exhaust manifolds, I always used brass nuts to connect the manifold studs to the exhaust pipe flanges. It made for easy disassembly the next time I was in there, guess that's unpopular now.

Love your videos, but would like to see more of you actually doing the job,helps as a learning tool for many of use.

Another nice video of how to fix a car

I would have sent that manifold back to the parts store!! Caused you a lot of extra time and work!!!

Work smarter not harder. Great Video.

I remove the spark plugs as well. If you don't you will break one.

try a mix of half atf and half acetone---some times works for me

Nice video

great video. very well explained. i learned a ton. thanks for this! 👍

On Chevy Silverados you can use a crescent wrench to remove the O2 sensor if it's not rusted in there real bad I do it all the time when I changed mine out

Excellent 👍 well done

Love your vids kenny great great tecky very thurough your the man😊

@11:09 you mention a video using a hose clamp... I too have one out there, that CLEARLY demonstrates HOW and WHY i ALWAYS use the hose clamp method.... You will NEVER round out a sensor or slip off of it!

Just my opinion, on the studs that holds the Y pipes I would just break them off since your using new studs and nuts any way. Great video Sir

Those manifolds do warp like crazy! Interesting that Dirman added additional cuts in the flange. OEM manifolds have one cut on one side (I forget which) and none on the other.

Greetings from Reno, Nevada.

How expensive are the exhaust manifolds? Could you check them with a straight edge and possibly have them machined or surface ground flat? I'd put headers on it if they were less money or just a better designed set? Great job, Kenny. Your right about needing to heat the studs every time?

When I have a problem removing those flange bolts, if they break loose and then get tight again as you try to remove them, reverse and thread them back in half a turn, spray with penetrating oil and work the nut and out. If they are seized that tight, it’s easier to twist them off and replace with new ones out of the vehicle.

You are lucky with them manifold bolts that hold it to the engine.I live in Vermont and everyone I do,the head of the bolts are so rusty.a full day to get them off.

My 2004 Suburban 2500 LT exhaust manifold nuts come off easily. Had them off many times. It is a SoCal vehicle though. 😊

When you have a little Splinter you cannot see using a razor blade on the side and it will pull it out

I actually enjoy doing those manifolds on Dodge and GM. Last truck, I had 6 bolts to extract. Challenging but a great sense of accomplishment. Fords, NO😵‍💫

support your local parts store!

Right or wrong. When I replaced the exhaust studs in my manifolds. I made some brass nuts to use on them. The perks of working in a machine shop.

When you were resizing the pipe what about laying an earth magnet near it to grap particles. Cool channel I just subbed.

When the bolts break in the head,keep the extractors,drill bits and drill in your toolbox.Drilling and using an easy out takes more time.Mig welder and a hand full of nuts takes less time extracting them out

I wish you could disclose the approximate value of parts because in my country a new manifold would be unavailable or 3 times the price and a secondhand one is our only option.

heat the nuts then cool them with water ..

I am really tired of parts that don't quite fit. 30 years ago you did not really consider that the replacement would be unusuable as-is.

Yea I use those burring bits all the time and yes I get splinters all the time or there stuck in you shirt and poke you and I always use stud installer tool or find nuts to jam them I never use the new nuts

That second set of studs look surprisingly like a two-stage rolled threads that only the first stage was done on. I have no idea why somebody would think that you need a locking mechanism on a stud in that situation. Of course you don't go nuts, you go bolts.

Gotta finish machining the manifold WTH Dorman come on 👍

Your videos are getting better! Who paid for your time enlarging the manifold exit hole? Did the parts store have others in stock? Oh *KEEP WRENCHING!*

The O2 sensors in my daughter's Equinox refused to come out! Socket just kept rounding it off. I ended up cutting it off and using an impact to remove it. Even then it was difficult for my impact. That was NOT a fun job!

I’ve never had an aftermarket exhaust manifold fit or be properly machined no matter the brand.

I’m surprised he didn’t use factory GM gaskets.

If you're just some guy working at home the parts store isn't going to just send you new gaskets. When something similar happened to me they all NAPA would do is a return on the whole manifold, which wasn't happening since I'd already installed it, or sell me a new gasket which they said would take 3-5 days to get. I went across the street to O'Reilly's and they had the gasket.

Kenny, I found just use a nut cutter or break them off. Everything is being renewed anyway. Those studs are scary, use better quality.

Nice work….Curious if ya went ahead and did new plugs and O2 sensor? Since ya had em out… Thx JB

Holy crap, someone actually using a real [machinist's] straight edge instead of a ruler.

Lucky none of the manifold bolts did not break and none were actually broken. Rocker covers need new gaskets or at least re torquing?

Hey Kenny, can you link the headlamp you wear to your Amazon tools list (if i's available there)?

2002 v 10 ford next .

Think induction heater

So wouldn't it be double the price to repkace both manifolds? That's a lot more.

Just curious, I heard or read not long ago the MAP gas in the stores now is not real. MAP gas is no longer available to people without a certain permit. I've got a couple bottles in my shed & wonder if they are or are not hotter than regular propane. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Dorman couldn't even machine the flange to fit the gasket they supply in their kit.I wonder how many people have thrown in the manifold and then cussed them out when it won't go together?

Hopefully those Dorman manifolds will last

May be stupid question, but what's difference between yellow at home depot, and blue/green from wally world. All say "all purpose propane", but you specifically mentioned the yellow bottle. Thank you sir

“Mail order parts”?? 🤣.

♠♠♠ I would have just split the nuts off. One can start the split with a cut off wheel. Then a air splitting chisel. Second, I would have just "Chambered" The lip on the manifold instead of grinding out the whole thing. That part that went into it was a self collapsible part. It is not good to get any metal particles into the exhaust It kills the catholitic converter. Those little pieces cant get in front of the honeycomb and spin around and destroy the honeycomb. My friend used to put brass nuts on his exhaust flange bolts so he could easily get them off when he wanted to. I guess one could butt two nuts together to jamb them from loosing. I noticed though those new studs had a incomplete thread cut. Seems to lock the nuts into place. Might keep a brass nut locked.

The lesson seems to be not to buy Dorman manifolds. They aren't machined properly and the threaded holes for the studs aren't tapped correctly either. This just another example of crap after market part quality.

I would have tapped the stud threads in the manifolds and gotten new dealer studs and nuts. yeah, not great quality.

Steel laminated gaskets work great on perfect surfaces, but once pitting starts they don't seal quite the same. Personally I'd rather use replacement composite gaskets on older parts when available, as those fill in surface pitting. I've reused steel gaskets several times when in a pinch and didn't have a replacement on hand, and nearly everytime I ended up with leaks on the exhaust manifolds. Mating surfaces will pitt in time, no way around it, and unless it's resurfaced or parts replaced steel gaskets won't fill in pitting and gouges very well. Same goes with exhaust flanges with steel rings, once the flanges pitt, the steel just doesn't fill in the pitting very good. If course it depends how bad the pitting, but once pitting starts it doesn't get any better.

an other 5.3 out the door .

Made in China or India🙀🙀🙀🙀

studs not in all the way... snipping the gasket... not my cup of tea

New plugs?

First off you are using map gas getting it red hot and explaining why you ripped the threads off . And you should never make any exhaust gasket fit something it was meant to fit. Does that not tell you the part was probably not made correctly

your 1st scanner link is bad

I would want a fire watch person with me. Wouldn't soaking in Kroil and setting a bit then heating be even better? Does Dorman know they made these manifolds wrong? Once ground on no returns. I made bolts for a living and the pitch on those studs are flat? Weird. Are there other manifold manufacturers than Dormain that do not have wrong size outlet bores and buggered up threaded holes. I mean I would be pissed to pay for the lack of quality I saw.

Typical Dorman quality.

Skip too many things

That is why most Dorman parts are sh!T

Rotary File is what that's called in my neck of the woods.

What would you recommend for DOD delete? I've looked at Range products. But I really didn't want a led light glowing all the time. TIA!