BLARG! My brain was fried while editing this video and I made a mistake. The "party trick" method is where you keep the reticle of your scope aimed at the bull's eye, but adjust the turrets over to where the first impact on the paper was. I accidentally said it backwards in the video, so I tried to edit that part out on KZfaq, but now it's a little awkward. Sorry friends!

Wasting ammo, no such thing. A day at the range is never wasted

I've been shooting for 65+ - years, and I learn something new when I watch everyone of your videos. This old man says Thank You..

As a RSO at my local range, I once watched a guy fire 40 rounds of 7mm Mag trying to sight in his hunting rifle. He would shoot once, then adjust his reticle. So, he was just chasing the hole all around the target. After two boxes of very expensive ammo, he was still several inches off and said, “I think that’s close enough:, and packed up and left. It took every ounce of my self control not to step up and tell him how to do it correctly, but first, RSOs are discouraged from offering training because our purpose at the range is safety, and second, he was with several of his buddies and I didn’t want to shame him in front of his posse.

Nice job! I’ve done the party trick bunches of times and it works. Minimal ammo used is always good these days.

Great info! Great video I always love your honesty.

It’s been fun watching this channel evolve! Keep it up moose

Thank you for your videos in general, and this one in particular. It's been 50+ years since SE Asia and your video reminds me of some lessons in LRPS.

great tip about the sun...I have been shooting,hunting since age 5 ..now 54...and I have never heard that...thank you🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸👍

Love the content! Thanks for showing me all of your ideas and ways

Great vid brother. Really good reminder about the sun and shadows.

I’m a new follower as of a couple days ago, and I have to say dude is absolutely my favorite you tuber. I’ve watched almost every single one of his video. Accurate information, not trying to sell us stuff all the time, just enjoyable content. Keep it up man

Thanks for sharing your lifetime of knowledge!

I just love this guys channel

Another good video! You make it fun

Great video man thanks for all the content you put out. And another thing I like about this video is your using a Arken scope and man I have to say those are awesome scope I know I love mine lol. Also I’ll have to check those ear pro out I’ve been looking for some quality brand to use.Thanks again y’all keep up the good work God bless

Great stuff! 👍

Fun video. Thanks, lots of info. The one thing i'm missing is the "cold bore shot" discussion. Other than that: Just lovely.

A pro, brother, great content.

As the Go-To scope-"sighting" guy for friends/family for past 50+ yrs, I was recently so proud of myself!!!! I recently bought a Ruger SFAR .308 20"bbl + Bushnell Banner scope. It is to be my hunting/bragging/ Hostile Discourager. My wife assissted in set-up(She's as happy w/it as I am). We set up "bore-sighting" immediately after "un-boxing"!! "How's it look," She asked. "DEAD ON @ 100 YARDS, elevation-wise, possibly 4" to Left, wind-age." Next day @ range, set-up, shot, 4" to left.clk-clk-clk-clk. Next shot, Bull's-eye @ 100 yds!! For now, I'll leave it there. But I feel confident, that I need only to drop it 2.2" @ 100/ to obtain zero @200/be 2.2" high@300yds!! WeHappy!! Hope your post gets straightened out!!

You start out literally bore sighting and that’s great because it works. It helps to have an orange center on the target. Peel off a 1.5-2” Birchwood-Casey orange sticker, and add to the white paper at 100yds. You can center that orange fairly easily in the bore and adjust your scope. You need to do it 2-3 times because it’s hard to keep the rifle steady on sandbags changing views from the bore to the scope. Works great though and saves ammo. The cheater method works both ways. I prefer a 3 shot group. Put crosshairs on the group and then move the crosshairs where I want the impacts to go, which is on the bulls eye.

I bore sight as you did, but at about 10 feet (indoors with a bright light on the target) setting the sight exactly the distance from the center of the bore to center of cross hairs, I then go to to 25 yards and get the bullet hitting about 1 inch low of aim point. At 100 yards, I am usually within a couple of inches.

Thanks for the info bud 😊

Just bore sight at 100 and with your FFP Scope use your reticle and adjust accordingly. I like to use a paper plate on a piece of brown wrapping paper. Did a Ruger American Predator in 2 shots 2 weeks ago at 100.

Really great content. Correction: Outstanding Content! The 'Mistakes' sections brought out some excellent points while the 'Getting on Paper' section was right behind it. Overall, an excellent video presented by an accomplished presenter. Will like/sub immediately.........

I had a problem with zeroing the turret and not doing another four shot group after I reset the turret. You are right sometimes you could get a few slight adjustments off and it’s very important to shoot another group after resetting the turret.

Easiest way I have found to sight in once I am on paper is to use a laser. Use a sturdy rest and fire a shot with your reticle on the bullseye. Adjust the laser to be on your point of impact while your reticle is on the bullseye. Then move your turrets to put your reticle on the laser dot. Fire second round to confirm zero. Two-shot zero every time.

Great vid. Thanks

I bore sight, shoot on paper at 25 yards. Then put your cross hair right on Bullseye, then adjust the scope moving to the hole you just shot on the paper keeping rifle still the whole time, having a lead sled or simmular helps alot. It works just like your way. Now after, move to 100 yards and shot 3-4 shot group like you did and make adjustments as needed. Then shoot second group of 3-4 to confirm you adjustments are right on where you want them.

Great info.

Informative and concise video. Great information. Thanks!

Thanks for the pro tips

Check your ballistic charts and zero at 27 to 35 yards depending on your MV and you should hit 3" high at 150 yards and 3" low and 300 yards. That's a 6" PVC pipe from 1 to 300 yards. Once you zero up close you can verify your hits at 50, 100, 200, 300 etc.

It will work on a 2nd focal plane scope if there is some kind of reticle with marks. Usually it’s at max magnification or in the case of certain scopes is that there is a triangle on the magnification setting.

THANK YOU!

I use Wheelers magnetic laser you put on end of barrel worked. Nice and quick.

Another Great Video 💯 Thank you 💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥

I just got a new sig cross 6.5 and was having trouble zeroing it. This is my first rifle with a scope. I Saw you video yesterday, went out today and tried out what you did in the video. You should rename the video to 1 shot zero! Thanks man

I really enjoy your channel. you really use your guns and they get dirty. some channels the rifles seem more like show pieces

I always love long-range trajectory you just got to compensate when you are shorter distance😊😊

Excellent

Huh, didn't know that about the sun. 🤠👍 thanks!

Your awesome. Thank you

Wow you are a real thinker

I have found when bore sighting. An odd shape like a square is hard to get centered in the bore. I found using a wheel on a vehicle is much easier. My niebor parks rite at one hundred yards from the bench in my garage. The round shape of the wheel, with silver center and black tire surround. Makes it much easier to center. I find doing this I am way closer bore sighting. Than with an odd shape.

Great video, whats the make and model of your matt your laying on?

Hola exelente video la explicacion de la posicion del sol fue muy interesante saludos desde URUGUAY

I actually did this today. It worked! I bore sighted it first and the first shot was 1” left and dead on elevation.

8:33 For anyone who doesn't know what maximum point blank range would be. The projectile leaves the rifle, crosses the optic 'zero' plane... Relatively at close range, travels up a modest amount (potentially several inches) along its arc, levels out in the middle range, and then starts to drop back towards the optic zero plane. Its trajectory, arc, continues to drop as it moves forward, and it will reach a point where its drop, equals its early rise. the trajectory curve moves up, comes back down, and drops below the center line. It is possible to exploit that total rise and drop, within a specific range, and possible to change where your rifle optics will naturally zero to the projectile, where the projectile will be high, how high above your point of aim, and what range you will hit you boot end of that wave. If you are aiming for a specific known target size. Ie, a 10 inch plate, or an 8 inch diameter vital. Zone. For an 8 inch target zone. You can accept up to 4 inches rise and up to 4 inches drop. Outside that, you need to adjust to compensate. Your Maximum point blank range (for a given rifle/ammo/optic/zero) would be the distances where, you aim dead center, and the trajectory will be expected to deliver the projectile... Within that 8 inch zone. The tricky part, is that projectile speeds, weights, ballistics, rifle ballistics, All affect the trajectory. So you won't have identical results from. 2 different rifles. Then, once you have your individual. Rifle/ammunition/optic trajectory, then you can work with what range you zero your optic, which will change where the bullet trajectory, intersects the optic plane. You can adjust your MPBR, by adjusting the range you zero the optic.

That’s literally my spot. Heading out there tomorrow

My tip I can’t remember if I heard from you or Vortex Podcast, but a good practice can be to adjust one click passed your intended point, and then adjust one back. Sometimes several adjustments will make them not as accurate. I don’t know how true it now but can’t hurt to do.

can you do a video on judging which hashmarks need to be used for longer shots on the vortex venom 5-25 in milliradian? I cannot seem to understand how to judge which hashmark to place my target on when I'm shooting out to around 500y. I've got it zeroed at 100y.

I know you talked about the sun's effect on your scope but how about an indoor range for sighting in? A gun store local to me has a 100 yard indoor rifle range and I'm curious if you think the lights in there would affect sighting? In the east it's harder to get easy access to large outdoor ranges.

Hello Backfire, Great Content as always. Question, I am going to zero my coyote rifles, it will be a 6.5 Grendel and a .223. My question is this. I have been seeing several Zeroing videos and the 36 yard Zero has my attention. I liked it because of the idea that your groups stay pretty consistent through various distances. BUT have not zeroed that way as of yet. What are your thoughts on this when hunting something like a Yote that you may be at less than 100 yards but also out to 300? If you are not a fan of the 36 yard zero, what suggestions do you have. Thanks!

I was helping a guy zero his hunting rifle/scope and after two consistent rounds he'd make an adjustment. However his next shot was totally off based on the adjustment. I finally looked down hi scope and it turns out his parallax was way off. I could move my head and get the crosshairs to point pretty much anywhere I wanted. Every time he got off the gun he had a new sight picture. We adjusted the parallax and things settled down.

Greta info.

Also using a target with 1” grids allows you to measure the impact more precisely for adjustments.

Any chance you could make a video going over ways to improve rifle shooting? I know the video with your wife on the 1-1000yd shooting went over it on some aspects. If so that would be helpful. Thanks man👍🏻

I see that you have the Bergara Picatinny rail. I also want to get it for my B14² Crest. Would you recommend the 0 MOA or 20 MOA version?

The primary reason to sight in your gun at 200 yards (for the MPBR method talked about in the video) is that your scope does not have a turret used to dial in your shots. Most older style scopes have internal turrets that you would not adjust for individual shots at game animals. When using that method with those older scopes you would need to make sure you are not shooting at something beyond the maximum point blank range unless you know how to adjust your point of aim for the greater distance.

Can you please please please do a video on how the sun shifts your point impact? Do polarized sunglasses affect anything? I could be wrong but I have noticed with polarized sunglasses on I always hit high at longer ranges. With glasses off and no other changes to anything my shots hit centered. I also went shooting in direct morning sunlight where all my shots were first impacts on steel, where as the next day I was in cloud cover and was off by almost an entire mil.

We just use 200meters to check the elevation of the 200 meter zero. It ends up being about 2,5 inches high at 100meters, depending on load and cartridge. fine adjustments are made at 100 meters. But.. I only hunt with my rifle using a simple duplex retical, and no shots over 300 meters. (maybe once or twice)

I use my lead sled and take a shot. After that first shot, without moving the rifle, I then spin my turrets while looking down the scope in order to move the reticle to where that shot landed. I can get a decent zero in 2-3 shots.

I just went through 60 rounds trying to sight in my AR with a new Sig 1-6 lpvo today and I got a bad scope. This thing wouldn't hit paper plates at 50 or 20 yards no matter what I did. I even went to 10 yards away and could not hit a paper plate. I bore sighted like you did here with the upper off of it. I would get close, impact was maybe 4 inches to the right so I'd adjust the windage and the impact would not budge. So I'd adjust more clicks and the impact would not move, so I'd adjust it more clicks again and then I was no longer hitting paper and was WAY off to the left. It's like clicking it would not move the crosshairs, then all of a sudden, it would wildly jump way off to the side. I am more accurate with the same rifle with the Holosun red dot on it. My Ruger 10/22 with a beat up old Redfield scope on it is more accurate. My 22 cal pellet rifle is more accurate with the scope that came on it. I have to have a bad scope. Then I stood up and hit the plate over and over with iron sights on a Mini-14. What in the holy hell? This is the US Army scope and it's junk. Mine slipped through quality control.

Recently purchased a Remington 783 270 and ordered a scope call the BSA sweet 270 which uses torrents adjustable to the bullet weight. Could you make a video using this scope?

If you have a mounted laser pointed at a particular dot when you shoot at the target. You can keep pointing laser at same spot, and put cross hair where bullet landed. It’s easier to do when you’re shooting alone.

I zero at hundred, then check the point blank depending upon the calibre. Always use groups for fine tuning. Agree with you on moving slightly after zeroing, even with expensive scopes.

Thanks for the tips. I’d love to see a video on your favorite tripods as well as your favorite phone scope options.

Can vouch for the GS Extreme. The newer models don't stay in some ear shapes (mine).

11:30 Does the sun still affect your daytime shooting (zero) if it's overcast and there is no direct sunshine?

I zero most rifles 1" high at 50 and verify at 100, 200, and so on out to MPBR. Usually ends up dead on at 250ish and no higher or lower than 3" out to 300 with my 270s. I'll spin the turret for longer shots when I need to, and theoretically have time to do so past that distance

By what mechanism does the sun "push" the bullet away 1 click? Light is light, or is it like heating that part of the scope and slightly warping the optics? Some sort of sideways mirage?

Something I might say about shooting from the prone position. If you are using a fairly heavy recoiling rifle that is the worst position you can choose. Sight in off a bench and there is less felt recoil and it's helpful for new shooters especially or even when you plan to fire a number of rounds.

Great content as always. I always do a three round group then like you did take the middle of group then adjust. I would like to see you do an article on reading the Mirage, as this sometimes has more affect on bullet trajectory than wind ,especially during long range shooting.

what would be a good way if I can't take out the bolt from the barrel? I usually shoot type of bolt-action air gun (it doesn't require license which happen to be a pain in the back side in my country). Is shoot/correct/rinse and repeat my best way or are there any tricks? taking out the bolt requires to disassemble practically most of the gun.

I notice that you shoot out south of town alot. Have you been up to the Cedar city range, or to the shooting range in the Parowan gap?

Ok I have a question. I was in a Deer hunting club for years. One rainy overcast day several guys checked our rifles and they were all a little out and someone said the barometric pressure was high. Next day same group shot on a sunny day and they all shot much better. Is this true the rain and pressure effects the zero. I have another one they would all tap the adjustment screw with like a pocket knife not hard but they claimed the cross hair sometimes would move and settle. Is this true also. Never see this and I been hunting a long time.

The 200 yd zero (maximum point blank zero) is from before there were handy affordable range finders. Dialing your turret for every distance in the field is less practical when you're essentially guessing at the range. It also works well in varied terrain where even a slowly walking animal might be out of sight before you can get your range finder out and dial in the elevation correction. Also, while the method you're showing is a good one and works well, I wouldn't feel comfortable taking a rifle hunting without following that up with a couple groups shot at 100 and 200 yards.

nice rifle and scope

Fantastic advice. I did not know much of this about zeroing a rifle.

Jim I sight in at 25 yards which is 16 clicks at 25 for inch..took my 7prc out to 2000 yards sat

Love the videos you do but never see the Howa 1500 on your list just wondering

What 308 ammo do you recommend for deer hunting? Most my shots will be 100yards probably a little less. I'm using an ar10. This is my first year deer hunting so I'm not sure what ammo is best? Is a standard 150grain bullet going faster better or a heavier slower one in that range? I know each barrel is going to like different ammo for grouping but still gotta be something that has beat average

Lovely scenery, is that Utah or Arizona?

I've been shooting for over 45 years. I did a lot of extreme long-range, over 2,000 meters. I do a true 2 shot sight in. I actually boresight the scope and barrel up to 200, then fire first round on paper. Usually within 6 inches at 200 from center. Then I move my sights according to the measurements need to correct the point of impact. Fire second shot and 95% of time I'm less than half of an inch from dead center. If you actually want a scope that can do a 1 shot zero, then look up Dan Sheppard and Sheppard scopes. He makes scopes that have dual recitals and dual scope adjustments. That are worth the money and if you ever wonder if your scope is off, you can verify it by just looking through the scope, and things will either be aligned on not. If not, just move the crosshairs into alignment, and you're done and on target again. They will take you out to 1,000 meters... They are very accurate and reliable. The military uses them to help train sniper in different countries for they are very easy and simple to use.

how did your third shot hit above the second impact after you pointed at the second impact? what is the reason behind it? could you please explain it a bit?

Hey bro can you review some high end rifles like anschutz, schultz and larsen, ?

I sight in using the same method,but I first bore sight at 50 yards.This should put me high at 100 yards by about 2 to 4 inches.I want 2 inches high at 100 yards this puts a no hold over out to 300.After that it could be a problem but in mountainous terrain like the Bulkley Valley or Chetwynd area your shots are seldom over 300 yards.Most are in the 150 to 250 range.If I was shooting for distance I would have a dead on hold at 100 yards and calibrate after that.

Would you say sight height above bore is an issue for 25 meters x4 for 100m adjustments?

And what about scope turrets that are gummy or stiff at first and don’t tract until you play with them to get them to adjust. I always move the turret knobs each way and stop on the new setting.

I took the grouping for zero. True, you can shoot a cold bore and often, it is not the bore that is the problem but the shooter who is cold. So, before shooting live ammo, settle in and take dry fire shots for at least 5. Practice the trigger squeeze. Body alignment. Body reset. At the range, sitting at a small table, the 7 PRC pushes me back. I have to remember to slide back forward a smidge to "reset" the stable position. It does not matter how much money you spend on a rifle, it will not shoot through the same hole. We cannot escape statistics. The tiniest variance in charge weight, slug weight, distribution of mass in the slug. Heat of the barrel. By the way, there is no gucci steel for rifle barrels. It is all steel. What you do with it can make a difference. The heat of the action. Ambient temperature. So, like Jayden said in the Hornady podcast, group the rifle for the job. I am not taking more than 3 shots on a deer. So, even though shot more than that for a zero, I later confirmed with a totally cold barrel with a 3 shot group. .57 inches. Mean radius from PoA .26 inches. So, I have a high confidence that I could shoot a deer at 300 yards to maybe 500 yards, the farthest I am going to shoot at game. And the 175 gr ELD-X in 7 PRC does not drop below 2,000 fps until past 750 yards. So, yeah, I spent a box of ammo because I need practice, as well. And finally someone says the quiet part out loud. The 100 yard zeroed scope can be dialed to 200 yards and you have a 200 yd zero to act as a MPBR to about 270 - 300 yds. But I also like precision dialing. To each his own.

You can measure with a 2nd focal plane reticle too. You just have to have the zoom set to where the reticle is accurate (which is usually max zoom). I zero my turret for 100 but usually have it dialed to 2.5 to 2.75 high when hunting (depends on the cartridge). And yes I shoot it dialed to check its actually 2.5-2.75 high.

Hello Nice vídeo What is the scope?

I looked around found it around the 450.00 mark looks like that would be in there with the Ruger gen2 and others I see you doing a lot just wondering keep up the excellent work

App? or.. Cheat sheet taped to stock or other convenient place?

I like that Arken Ep5 😎

What about the many rifles with less than perfect barrels that throw a wild first cold bore shot?

I try to find out what my closest zero would be that would also be zero at 100. Take, for instance, the 120 grain Hornady Match 6.5 CM: zeroing at 25 yards will maintain zero at 100 as well. So, my method involves bore sighting at 25 yards and then confirming with one or two shots at 100. My scope is also 1.5 inches higher than barrel center.

very well

I live in Maryland how much bullshit papper work and time i would have to wait until it would arrive just curious if you know.