Thank you for the support. Hope it was helpful and/or interesting :)

This is very true, thank you for mentioning it in the comments! I do go into more detail about reciprocity failure in my blog-post, as I didn't want to go into details about it in the video. However, I could have been clearer in the video that this only affects us analogue nerds and our precious film ;D

@@O.Persson funny thing. I use film for myself and digital professionally (I'm one of the photographers on one agency of the European Commission) and I never look at it as a "film nerd". I actually have a tendency to see it as others being "digital nerds". I like the way they discuss between themselves that camera X has 800 autofocus points (when in reality you just need one and the camera only focus on a specific length), or they debating themselves which photo camera has the best video...

😆 that's one way of seeing it. And I agree it's fairly funny hearing people complain and discuss especially AF performance. And I'm like AF is to good today, it's no fun. Maybe I should just buy a bigger and slower larger format instead :D I did photography semi-professionally for a while, a small side-thing. All on digital (of course). Then the pandemic hit, and well since I've more or less moved over completely to doing it as a hobby and only analogue stuff.

Ohh. I must add I consider being a nerd a compliment :D

Seems like you have a quite robust system. Thanks for sharing! I myself slack on my notes keeping, all my film holders are marked and I do have a fairly decent system in place. But I keep forgetting to take proper notes once out in the field. Especially when I'm juggling video as well, even though it's a bit of a contradiction as that's probably when I should take extra care. I've heard good things about CatLabs, but it's almost double the price of Fomapan here in the EU (at least on retrocamera.be). And more inline with pricing of Adox, which I do like (not shot it in LF yet though). I like Foma for the simple reason they provide most of the different photography materials, like film, paper, chemicals etc. All have performed well enough for me. It's not as good as the Ilford stuff, but considering it's generally half price compared to ilford it's hard to beat price/value wise. I'm going to switch over to Fomapan 200 for LF though, it's already my favourite in the smaller formats. And I just finished of my last sheets of Fomapan 100, so next order will be Fomapan 200 and some Adox CHS. Reciprocity usually isn't a big factor for my kind of photography. It's rare I get exposure over 1 s, with a 100 or 200 -speed film. Thanks for the support and the useful comment.

Thanks for the encouragement. We all make mistakes, it's just part of being human.

You're right, I've never thought about it, but that should be for 6x9. But yes, I've shoot multiple rolls with the camera (maybe 20-50 rolls) and never had any issues att all. All have been loaded as shown in the video, and I haven't noticed that the frames been missaligned on the negatives. It's also how it's described in the manual, wich I actually have for this camera :) Small warning though there's multiple versions of the Ikoflex, and some even share the same name, so that's something to watch out for. Hope it was helpful, and the best of luck with the camera!

Thanks for the input! This old video still lives, I must admit my earlier videos contains the odd miss here and there. As you wrote, you can set the f-stop to half stops (I'll add in a correction), thank you for pointing it out! I agree about the CF-lenses, they are better suited for the 2000/200-series of cameras. My 50 mm is a CF-lens, much easier to use and match the camera better. However, it must be said that, the c-lenses are cheaper by some margin. Quality wise they are excellent, if one can live with the short comings and in some cases the lesser coatings. Have a great day!

Yes I did, sorry for the late reply. I've been on vacation and tried staying of Social Media/E-mail etc. Sometimes I just need a digital break :) It was great seeing though! What a great letter from Ansel himself.

Thank you! I've abandoned HP5 for now. I'm never satisfied with that film when I get the negatives. Technically speaking, it's one of the best and most versatile films out there; I just don't like it. Kenmare 400, on the other hand, gave me some of my favourite negatives from a camera ever. I ran a roll of that through my 35mm camera and pushed the film one stop (winter time). And as I'm writing this I'm ordering another pack of Foma 200 ;) That's great to hear! Looking forward to seeing some of the results (I do follow you on IG). I have some old Adox paper that still has some life in it, and I love it. I haven't tried the new stuff. But in general, I've been happy with whatever Adox produces. I've tried some of their (new) chemicals and films, and I'm sure the paper is also excellent. Hopefully, you get some digitalisation going; many options are available. Keep it simple, and as I think I mentioned, I would seriously consider the lobster film holder (found on Etsy). I keep hovering over the buy button for that. Even though I have the Pixl-ltr (for 4x5) and the Essential Film Holders (for 35/120-film). Neither is perfect, but they work well enough (and are fairly priced). I'm also considering buying an Epson V800/850 to save some desk space, as I keep leaving my tripod and scanning equipment up. It just doesn't look very nice in my office. All the best!

Agreed :) I never had the opportunity to try Polaroid 4x5, but I trust you own that :P As said in the video, I preferred the monochrom version, but then again I'm a bit of a BnW fanatic.

Thanks :) And I've seen that episode now, what a wonderful photographer she is. Might need to try and find some more of her photographs.

@@O.Persson Thank you or I'd never seen her work!

I made an honest mistake and accidentally calculated for each pack you buy of Instax containing 10 frames per pack. This is true, but they are sold in packs of two. As added as a flash card, in reality, I would say it's about the same cost (instax vs. fompan 100). (That excludes printing, and scanning the negatives at home, and assuming you already have the dev. gear.) I want to add that my point was that it's not significantly cheaper to shoot Instax over BnW negative film. If you are interested, here's the math (I also made a blog post about it) 50 sheets of Foma 100, incl. Vat costs €42.5 Cost per sheet Foma: 42.5 / 50 = €0.96 Jobo alpha developer and fixer, incl. Vat: €37 Developing cost per sheet: 37 / 50 = €0.74 (It will do 50 sheets according to specs) Total cost for fomapan 100 per sheet: 0.96+0.74 = €1.69 Cost of a 2 x 10 Instax Wide (colour) pack, incl. VAT: €13.42 Cost of Instax Wide per sheet: 13.42 / 20 = €1.35 Of course, the cost of developing will differ depending on your choice of chemicals and how many sheets you do each run. Another example: Rodinal 500 ml costs ~15 € I use 10 ml per dev run, and I can do 6 sheets on each dev. run*. 15/50=0,3 €/dev run 0,3/6=0,05 €/sheet Fomafix 500 ml costs ~ 7 € Mixes 1:5, and 1 l of working solution will do 17 sheets (according to specs). 500 ml will give 3 l of working solution 7/(3x17)= 0,14 €/sheet Dev cost Rodinal & fomafix: 0,14+0,05=0,19 € Foma 100 (still): 0,96 €/sheet Tot: 0,19+0,96€ = 1,15 €/sheet All prices are EU prices incl. VAT. (taken from fotoimpex or retrocamera, which are my resellers of choice) The cost of development will vary greatly. You can often stretch chemicals beyond specified numbers (at your own risk, of course). I would say a good approximation would be 1-3 €/sheet for development alone. On top of that comes the film cost. Fomapan 100 is the cheapest film I've found, and even so, it works beautifully and is what I shoot the most. So for me I would say the cost is about the same. If you instead shoot, for instance, slide film and have it lab-developed, that's another story. That I don't want to think about, luckily I'm a B&W fanatic :D Hope that was helpful! And feel free to correct me if I made a mistake! * note that using less than 5ml rodinal per sheet is not recommended. I do use, as stated, 10 ml for 6 sheets. So, I'm stretching the developer slightly. If you use 5 ml/sheet instead, that would be 0,15 €/sheet. And that would mean a total of 1,25 €/sheets instead Side note: I use tap water as a stop bath, and the final rinse is done with tap water and a few drops of rinse aid (for dishwashers). This is not included in my calculations. EDIT: I cleared up the formatting and the language.

I haven't seen that episode yet, perfect as breakfast tv :D Sounds like she's a photographer I would like very much. In general Denmark have some great photographers, and I personaly love the melody of the Danish language. But than again it might be some childhood nostalgia from growing up watching danish TV (growing up close to the danish border and all). On another note, you must soon seen all my videos. I love the support :)

Thank you! The last images where with the 50 mm as well. I can't say I noticed any big issues with difractions at f/22 with the 80 mm. I would say that it preforms best at f/8-f/16, but I don't hesistate using f/22.

Thanks! Great to hear! Bad wheater is often the best wheater for photography. Perhaps not always for the gear though ;) Regarding RC paper I do prefer the look and feel of fiber, but RC is much faster and easier to use. According to a couple of old books from Pär Lundqvist (Swedish photographer who wrote a lot of books about darkroom stuff back in the days), he claims RC papers longivity problem was mostly a myth with "modern papers". With that said I do have a local exhibition (street photography actually) comming up in september, I'll probably print on fiber paper for that. I'm thinking of ordering some Bergger Prestige Variable CB, that I haven't tried but I have high hopes.

@@O.Persson Wow, Congratulations on your exhibit in September - what a Birthday present! Looking forward to that video! I am starting to think that Par Lundgvist is correct and the bias toward RC may be unfounded. I think it was co new in the 1970's and RC has probably improved since then as well. It is a lot easier to develop I will try out a batch at least for contacts and try to locate Mr. Lundgvist books although they may not be in English! I received a letter from Ansel Adams concerning RC back in the 70's, which I treasure, and will sed to your email if that's okay? Not sure how to post here.

I don't think Pär's books ever was translated to English. However his book "Foto min Hobby" (translates to, as you probably can guess, "photo my hobby") is pretty much the standard for learning film-photography, and was used by many schools and photo clubs back in the days. I remember it vaguely from my school days, I did take a class in photography and film was still the norm. How cool to have a letter from the master himself, I would love to read it, feel free to e-mail me (the email can be found on the front page of my channel).

@@O.Persson Yes, I looked him up and only one book was in English but it was more about Line work whatever that is. I am going to try and learn a bit of Swedish. We have been watching Scandinavian mystery shows like Backstrom, Wallender, Rebeka Martinsson, etc... and find them very, very well done. We hardly watch any North American TV, I generally don't like much from here, and watch UK and European shows. Yes, I'll email you the letter right now. Keep in mind I was 20 at the time and I believe AA was just being kind to a youngster as he was and encouraging me... which he did!

Thanks Stephen! Didn't know lingonberries where a thing in Canada, the more you learn. Cloudberries I had to google the translation for, that's really rare in my area, fairly common up north though. Love me some cloudberry jam :D The images from that day where some of my best with the X-H2, and probably the second to last time I used the X-H2 for photography. I also photographed a dance event, but after that it's been all analouge. My initial idea was to use the H2 for colour and do B&W on film, but instead I've became alomst exlusive BnW film photographer. Cheers!

@@O.Persson Hi Oskar, We pick Bakeapples aka Cloudberries in August so I'll see about sending you a sealed jar of our Cloudberry jam for your Birthday in September! We pick Lingonberries AKA Partidgeberries in September usually after a frost (like like the veg Brussel sprout, they are sweeter after a frost). Just had a Lingonberry muffin from my sister in -law from last years berries (we freeze some for baking and future jam every year).

@@stephenwiseman3780 that would be something that :D

Love myself some Tri-x, expensive though as with all Kodak film (at least over here).

The 500's are the famous camera, and the bigger legend. However the first system camera from Hasselblad was a focal plane shutter, so I like to think that the 2000-series is Hasselblad return to it's roots :)

@@O.Persson Indeed, plus you can use leaf shutter lenses if you want with the 2003 FCW. It is a superb camera.

Hi Stephen, As always thank you for your kind comment! Regarding my hiking boots, I use a pair of Lundhags Tjakke Mid. Great boots, took a while to break in though. They use vibram outersoles, decent grip on most terrain. I do know Lundhags sell a couple of model specificly made for winter and ice & snow. Lundhags are very well regarded boot manufacturer here in Sweden, especially among old-school hikers and scout-leaders. They are heavy, rubust and will last a life time (and two). However, they aren't for everyone. My partner, she never got along with em when she had a pair. Personaly I've been pleased with the Tjakke, however I think I'll replace them with a pair of Forrest II boots this autumn. As I like the idea of a 1-layer boot instead of the 3-layer boot I have now. Lundhags are also most famous for their 1-layer (sheel boots). None of the lundhags uses goretex, instead they are partly rubrised. A soloution I much prefer over Gore-tex (which I avoid in general). But I'm really no outdoor expert, I'm at core a city-rat that fairly recently (~5-10 years) discovered the great outdoors. You're absolutly correct, I'ts the Hestra Ergo Grip. They come in a pletora of different variants, all very similar, I think mine where the "Ergo Grip Tactility". I loved them, sadly they broke this year, after I've had them for about 3 years. They aren't the warmest, works well in tempertures around 0-10 °C. If it got colder than that I switched to a pair of "Hestra - Windstopper Pull Over Mitt" with a liner underneth. They are the kind where you can fold away the top, wich works ok. Side-note: I live down in the damp and rainy south of Sweden, not sure if that's better or worse then snow in May ;) All the best!

@@O.Persson Hi Oskar, I do like the idea of a boot that you can layer as needed which seem to be the idea of the one layer boot. I have emailed Lundhags to ask what their grippiest boot is. This is my main criteria. I found another company from Sweden; IceBug with Michelin special winter rubber soles and liked the traditional look of the Adak but I think its lined. For Newfoundland, they would probably be fine 9 months+ of the year. I wear heavy socks from Sept. - June! Have you seen them? I don't like Gore-tex either, mainly the aesthetics of it which I'm sure is silly of me. Well, I grew up in Kentucky, Florida, North Carolina and lived in Michigan, Texas, Ohio, and England before moving to Newfoundland, Canada on 2008 and becoming a Citizen. Now I live, where my wife is from, in a fishing "outport" of 500 people, a grocer, gas station, post office, church and community center. The really good part is the North Atlantic behind us if you can get through the dense forest of dwarf trees. To bad about the gloves as they are not cheap and should last longer than 3 years. I have a deep winter pair but looking for this weight/style glove.

I have a pair of summer-sneakers from Icebug, my favourite day to day shoe for the warmer months. And I've heard good things about their shoes/boots in general. Sounds like a lovely area you live in nowadays (even though it's cold), away from the stress from the large cities. After living 10 years in Malmö (3rd largest city in Sweden, but small compared to many other European-cities), I appreciate the calm and quiet out of the countryside where we live nowadays. But I do miss after work beer, the dance scene, and the general culture scene of the city. Even though I only have about a 50 min drive to Malmö, it's not the same.

Yes, we love it here. We also have an Atlantic Salmon run in our rivers minutes away and are allowed two per season but its hard work getting one on a barbless fly. I enjoy brook tout fishing probably more with a dry fly and lighter gear than salmon buy seeing a Salmon jump and shake the fly out is an exhilarating experience. For fine dining and nightlife we drive 4 hours one way to St. John's the capitol and largest city - a whooping 200,000 metro area haha. The entire province of Newfoundland, an island, and Labrador above Newfoundland is just around 500,000 with an area as large as the the UK. Gander is 1.5 hours from us and has decent shopping and is where the play originated Come from Away when all the passengers landed in Gander during 911 and the Newfoundlanders took care of everyone as best they could.

That sounds so awesome! It sounds a lot like the north of Sweden, which I've only visited a couple of times in my life

Glad you found it useful. This is an older video, but it certainly is a nice lens, at ~1 kg it's not a light lens though. Even though mine has started acting up since :( My HB 2003 fcw was actually cheaper than a nice 500 CM when I bought it. And I get why, it's the 500-series that's the legend, and there's a certain allure to a fully mechanical camera. I went with a bay50 to 62 mm, as it matched some filters I already have. I slightly regret not going for a larger thread size, as bay 60 that later hassy lenses uses are slightly larger that 62 mm. I've simplified my filters for the Hassy, I only use an orange filter from Heliopan. Someday I'm going to add in a 100 mm filter system (looking at one from Kase or Hoya filters), to be able to use grad filters on my HB and large format cameras. But for now there's other things I need/want first.

@@O.Persson Dear Oskar, Thank you for your reply. I hope and pray you get the 250mm going again. Is it the shutter? We've got at least two qualified repairmen here in Canada now that mainly if not only do Hasselblad's and Rolleiflexes but I'm sure if you can't seem to find the issue there are many in Sweden! After seeing the size and weight thanks to you I may go for a 150mm and 60mm for the wide. I've been checking out and writing down spots I want to return too with my Hasselblad and Intrepid 4x5 but still waiting for some important items like the 150mm lens for the 4x5 and the Hasselblad kit which is in shipping. As you know, it's not easy getting all the "parts" assembled when from different sources! As far as filters I would like one of the systems you mention for 100mm filters but I honestly can't figure them out. I think I'll call Kase, Hoya and LEE to see if they are helpful in a system that works for 45 and 120. I can't understand what to even order at this point.

@@stephenwiseman3780 We do have a fairly good general repairman in the nearest town. But the cost of having it fixe professionally would probably be more than the lens is worth. And it's not the shutter, that works fine when fired without the camera. It's more like the camera doesn't recognise the lens (it works fine with my other two lenses), so I think it's the little cog that's supose to engage with the camera that's malfunctioning (probably just a bit sticky). It takes a while before assembling the kits, and meanwhile one is just ready to go out and shoot. I myself am waiting for a Ondu to start manufacturing my camera. I pre-ordered a 4x10 as a small birthday present for myself. It's expected to ship in September, hopefully I'll have it in time for my birthday (21/9) :) I honestly don't think there's much difference between the filter systems from the reputable brands (kase, lee, nisi, Hoya etc.), as long as they are glass filters. The cheaper resin filters, like the one from Colin aren't as nice. Had a kit of that, and they worked ok, but had a horrible magenta colour cast. My Kase filters, and the more expensive Cokin glass filters (nuance I think they are called, I had one Nd from that series) were much nicer, and no to very little colour cast. I would look for a good deal on a starting kit from one of those brands, they do go on sale every now and again. But a starting kit with still costs like 400-1 000 € over here. It happens every now and again that I wish I had some filter with me, but not as often as one might think. Hope you get your cameras soon, and can get started shooting. :)

Thank You! I'm only now waiting for my 500Cm with an older 80mm 2.8 and the 150 lens for my 4x5. I'm loading my film holders tomorrow with all the above due to my door Thuesday:)! Then I'm shooting next week:) Yes, I can't believe the prices of the older V lenses even when CLA'd. I like the old design as well - they seem more German/Swedish engineered but I'm weird. Congrats on the Ondu for you BD fingers crossed! They really look nice and I would think a step or two above the Intrepid. The Intrepid is a great camera too as you know. On filters, I'm going to hold off but you've given me some great options to look out for. @@O.Persson

I also have a thing for German (or really euro) cameras and stuff, if that's not apparent. I do also collect european cameras. I want to think the Ondu is a step up from the Intrepid; to my eyes, it looks like a very similar design but with better materials. I actually got an email from Elvis (who's running Ondu cameras), and I might receive my camera before September as he will make it with the Kickstarter batch. Now starts the hunt for all the things needed for 4x10. It's an odd format, so that will be interesting.

Thanks! Glad you liked it.

To each their own. Not all cameras are for everyone. The Tessar is supposedly the better taking lens of the two. Ohh well, luckily you had the option to return it, I hope you found a camera you like. My Ikoflex mostly stands on the shelf, but every now and again I still take it for a spin. I actually prefer it over my Rolleiflex, even though the Rolleiflex is superior in almost all technical (and design) aspects. Have a great day!

Thanks for the support, glad you enjoyed the video! And thanks for the consideration, I've heard about the things about the rails as well. However, it's not in the official manual, and in a Linhof UK (from the official reseller I believe) video they also state that it's not necessary. Looking at the construction with my own eyes, I can see that it will introduce some wear. But I can't see it being that much, I'm more concerned with stripping the gear of the rise lever. Anyhow, I'm sure it's in essence a good advice, I just keep forgetting and don't worry too much about it.

Thanks! And agree, it didn't quite work.

Thanks for the feedback. In large we agree, I'll see how they look on final prints (these are just digital scans of the negatives for now). I personally don't mind a "hot" sky, I used to. But the more my photography evolved, the less I mind the white skies. On the contrary, I often find myself including them in my photos. The two "main" images are alright, and I think it's worth enlarge these on a warmbase paper with fairly soft contrast. I'm thinking Bergger Prestige, haven't tried that paper before. But I'm going to try and order some, as it's a fair bit cheaper than the equivalent Ilford paper. We'll see... Anyhow thanks for watching, and taking the time to comment! Have a great day!

Real men grows their own scarf

Thanks! It was good enough reason to get away for a couple of days :D

I'm sure you'll be happy with the tripod. It's a good compromise between weight, functionality and price. I've been very happy with mine. I suppose you could get by with just the leveling base, it would be enough for most scenarios when you're looking somewhat straight ahead. Of course pictures looking down on flowers, and what not, will become tricky. The LB-65 doesn't include any plate, it's just a screw for mounting a head on. Perhaps add a panohead on it? Would be fairly lightweight. Personally I'm a fan of geared heads, my current G2 has been decent. But I've been missing a panoplate at the bottom, so I'm looking into replacing it. On the top of my list is the Leofoto G3, weighs 450 g and have a load capacity of 8 kg. My local leofoto reseller suggested it over the G20 (wich is basically the G2 with a panobase added). Regarding filters I'm as much in the dark as you. I haven't ventured into that for LF yet. I'll probably go down that road someday, but for now there's other stuff I prioritise over a new filter system. For summer I'll probably buy an orange screw-on filter for my LF-lenses. But besides that I'm holding off on filters, for now. Finally it's incredible how light-weight the intrepid setup is. I love my Linhof, but the intrepid is more than half the weight. I hope the kit help you keep shooting, it is a very rewarding hobby :)

@@O.Persson Thanks again for the advice. I think I'll live with an old well made ball head for now and Maybe get the Leveling Base and G20 (due to the weight of a gear head) later. I don't really like ball heads but this one does have a limiter and the Intrepid is so much lighter than the Zone VI! Intrepid just emailed me which was less than two weeks...its being shipped today! I mentioned you and Sidonie ? said he'd heard of you and they would be checking your KZfaq out. I would love for them to send you a camera to test and video of the Mark V. Forgive me as you may not want that sort of thing. I should mention that Lefoto US said that they are not stocking the G3 geared due to "problems" yet they have the G4. Could be a US issue not valid in Europe and Scandinavia. Yea, I think I'll go for screw ins for my little Fujinon W 150 5.6 MC. Like, only 49mm. Cheers!

@@stephenwiseman3780 Exciting stuff, I'm sure you'll be happy with it. Thanks for mentioning my channel, and kinda cool that they heard about my small channel. :) I have no intention of turning this into a review channel, but I don't mind the odd test of some gear that seems interesting (like the intrepid or lomograflok).

Glad it was of some help. It's no exact science, but a good starting point and with some practice it's rather useful. Another nice thing about the view catcher is that it's a neutral gray, which comes in handy when evaluating scenes. I do wish they made a slightly larger version, as it would make things a bit easier.

@@O.Persson Thanks!

Thanks :) I think that's one of the best things with photography, it kinda pushes you to get out and see stuff

Agree and agree. I really like the idea of the contrast there. Might have to redo this trip next year :D

Correct. And I didn't realise the mistake until it was too late (thanks to another comment). I meant 500 km or 50 "mil". As with most Seeds I use "mil" for longer distances. Oh well, easy mistake I suppose. And correct again, this is Ramsvik about an hour north of Gothenburg. If the highway is open. Edit: and thanks for the words of encouragement:)

Glad you enjoyed the video! And thank you for the support and kind comment

Yes, its explained very shortly in the video. There was some road work on the highway, they had closed a large portion of the highway. Instead I had to drive on the smaller roads. In the end it took me around 6,5 hours to get there (that includes a short lunch break).

Ha ha I just realised I confused km with Swedish miles. 😆 And didn't even reflect on it when you pointed it out. It's supposed to be 500 km. Edit: we rarely use km when we speak about longer distances in Sweden, we use "mil" (roughly translates to miles), 1 mil = 10 km. It's not only the Americans and Brits that use strange measurements ;)

@@O.Persson Yes, because that really sounded strange.... I was about to say that I once had a car like that..... That took 6 hours to do 50kms, hahahahaha :) It was a FIAT :)

@@paulodefeyter Ha ha. Funny thing, I drove a Fiat for this trip!

@@O.Persson that's not a Doblo, or is it?

We all do, it's part of the game :) Obviously I much prefer the old school of shooting and developing. The less lightroom/photoshop, the better :)

Very true, I do wonder how many still shoot Large Format professionally? I suspect they are easily counted 😆

My darkroom needs some renovations, so for the moment I'm without a darkroom. It's one of my summer projects :) Regarding the Pixl-latr I use that exclusively for 4x5, and it's great for that. I also have an essential film holder, which I use for 120 and 135. So I can't really speak for how well the Pixl-latr works for the smaller formats. Since recording I've also seen the lobster holder on Etsy, that looks brilliant to my eyes. If you haven't ordered, you might want to check that out. My scanning is nothing special, and a bit crude to be honest. Just a tripod and a lightning table. I then just do a manual inversion in Lightroom. Good enough for social media and the likes. I see it as a substitute for contact sheets. My plan is to do my final prints in the darkroom. EDIT: about doing a video about my process, I do have one in mind for late summer. :) I work slow but steady ;)

Thanks for the support! I'll try and keep the videos coming, even though I do have a full time day job (or actually mostly night). As a Swed a Hasselblad has always been a dream camera for me :) It's lovely, but starting with one system is probably wise. Of course! Etching is probably the way to go. I've since switched my main LF camera to the Linhof, which has the markings I need, making the issue less pressing. But I'll keep it in mind, as the Szabad is too beautiful to not use at all. Have a great day!

@@O.Persson I think a Hasselblad is a dream camera for many of us - many its the Scandinavian blood in me (a little anyway) according to my DNA. Yes, That Szabad is beautiful as well and really cool made by a gentleman there. Keep up the great work!

Thanks for the encouragement! I'm heading back to the same area in about a week, for a short phototrip. Ohh man the Zone VI field cameras are beautiful! And a wooden tripod to go with that, such a great combo! Pretty much the pinnacle of field camera setups of what I've heard. Would love to try one out someday. I use a Mindshift Backlight 45l bag. Simply because it was on sale and looked like a decent bag. I've been happy with it. It holds my large format camera as well as my video-kit, with some room over for snacks and some waterproofs. It's a good construction, and not far off a proper hiking bag. It's fairly expensive though (when not on sale). Other bags I had on my shortlist before buying the mindshift were Schimoda, Atlas Bags, F-stop, and Lowpro Whistler. Haven't tried any of them, but they look nice and I've heard good things about them. For me 45l is a good size, but I'm able to squeeze in my kit in my old 35l Lowpro Flip side Trek 350. That bag isn't nearly as comfortable to carry on longer hikes, and was the main reason why I upgraded. But it feels like I'm on a constant lookout for that perfect camera bag. When it comes to developers, it comes down to personal taste. I would suggest starting with one of the classic developers, as it's easy to find developing times for most films. Something like Xtol, Rodinal, ID-11/D-76, or HC-110 are all good general film developers. But I must say I am a bit of a Rodinal fan, as it has a shelf life of a lifetime and then some. But I did start with Kodak T-max dev., and have been using that for the majority of my images. It's been giving me decent results, but I've never been a huge fan of it. It supposedly has a shelf life of ~6 months concentrated chemicals in an open container. But I've had mine for >2 years and just about finished the bottle now, without any issues. My point being, don't overthink it. Buy one and start, it will probably be fine. Film is easier, I always suggest starting with the cheapest you can get hold of. At least for a start, to learn on. If you're anything like me you'll soon enough be locking at the exotic stuff, like nocolorstudio, Washi, Dry plates etc. But for a start go with something simple, a nice classic grain, panchromatic film at ASA 100 - 400. Something like Fomapan 100 or 400 (dirt cheap, at least here in the EU), and there's always Illford FP4 or HP5. Best of luck to you!

Everyone to his own. I'm the exact opposite, I don't see any point in shooting digital anymore. I still have a digital kit, but that's almost only used for paid gigs and to practice with. I shoot film for three reasons. I like the look of it, I love the process, and because it's fun. But as I said you are more than welcome to keep shooting digital. I'm probably in the minority, and that's ok. As long as it gives you some enjoyment (or pays the rent) go for it. EDIT: just to be clear, I shoot LF for the same reason I shoot film. And as I pointed out in the video, I strongly suggest developing/scanning/printing at home, especially for LF. The running cost (acc. to my own calculations) for dev./scanning at home ~1-4 €/sheet, sending it to the lab ~8-9 €/sheet. This is for BnW negative film. It isn't cheap, but manageable. And considering that I shoot fewer frames with LF than I do with smaller formats. I do think the actual cost per outing is about the same for 4x5 as for 120, and perhaps even 135.

@@O.Persson Me too! I sold my Leica monochrome. As good as it was, I hated the thought of the digital workflow ahead. Especially since I don't have the discipline to select images in a more thoughtful way with a small camera. More than that, while "developing" those few images, after spending time on looking though the junk images, I then tried to make the images look like film - they never do to me. When my older Mac couldn't handle the new LR update I notice AI was in the update and that's when I'd had enough. Theres a lot of cost to digital in software, upgrades, software issues, external hard drives, cords everywhere, etc... Comparing my old mounted 8 X 10, 4 X 5 and Rolleiflex prints to non gelatine prints from 40 years ago , all archival processed brought me back to film. No hard drives, as my negatives, contacts and prints are boxed up on shelves that I can get too anytime. The cost of shooting 30-40 images for one keeper would be very expensive. However, Now I can take 2 or three film holders out for a day and know this will keep me going for the day. Also, once you have the camera good lenses are cheap compared to any other system camera. You can also develop sheet film in 5 X 7 or 8 X 10 trays as described in The Negative by AA. I loaded, developed and contact printed 8 X 10 negs in a cabin in Yosemite back in the 1975. You can even contact print and make exquisite 4 X 5 small prints for some subjects. I'm not trying to convert anyone as I'm sure your not but just trying to be helpful to those of us that feel the same way - Thank You! Curious, do you have a small or medium format film camera for hand held images? Stephen in Newfoundland, Canada

@@stephenwiseman3780 It's always nice to hear from a fellow analogue enthusiast! As you said, I'm not trying to convert anyone into shooting film if they don't want to. I just try and share the small knowledge I've obtained, and hopefully spread some of my joy for photography and the analogue medium. I do shoot all formats, or more accurately I shoot 135, 120 in 6x6, and of course 4x5 Large Format. I am a bit of a camera collector, and have a small collection of mostly European cameras (and pseudo European). Almost all in working condition, a few are on the repair table that I'll get to eventually. The cameras that are in current rotation and their current primary use: Linhof Technika V, landscapes Hasselblad 2003 fcw, handheld landscapes/cityscapes Rolleiflex 3,5, street photography Minox 35 GT, casual and street Contax G1, casual & travel Minolta CLE on its way from Ebay. Meant to become my primary street camera, and a place holder for a future Leica (when I can afford one).

@@O.Persson I still can't get a Hasselblad out of my mind but hard to find a good one serviced at a reasonable price in Canada. I may try Scandinavia and Germany/Austria, etc... as I but most of my woodworking tools from Germany's DICTUM and Dieter Schmid and find their service, prices and shipping outstanding. I loved my Rolleiflex 3.5 and always admired the Contax G series after seeing in one of the additions of AA's The Camera but I heard no on services them anymore but that could be a rumor? Never heard of a 35mm minor but I'll have to look that one up! The CLE is suppose to be better than the Leica one, or at least some think so, its a sweet camera I played with back in my youth. I am finding I just can't focus very well with rangefinders which was an expensive mistake once! I believe in one of your post you mention retiring your one cameras? I understand your an engineer but I'm just an architect so I could only sketch the camera but not fix it:)!

Hasselblad and reasonable prices don't really go hand in hand. 😆 Perhaps a bit easier to find a good example over here, as they are fairly common, however they still cost an arm and a leg. Just picked up the CLE from the post office. The camera looks great, the lenses had some fungus, but nothing too serious. As with all electronic cameras if it dies it dies. The same goes for the Contax. Hard to find anyone willing/able to work on old electronic analogue cameras. But then again if they hold up for 30+ years, one can hope they'll keep going for another 30 years. :) I do try and service and fix my own cameras. I'm no expert, but I'm not afraid to try. And I do like to tinker with them. We were almost in the same field then. I went to uni and got a bachelor in civil engineering (architecture). Ended up mostly working with CAD/BIM software for about ten years. However, I made a career switch a few years back, for a simpler life as a tram technician/repairman.

They are lovely the Linhofs :) I feel you with the stuck lens. I myself am struggling with the 90 mm mentioned in the video. I got tired of the Linhof quick release cable thing, and removed it. Somehow the retention ring loosened up in the process. And I can't remove the back element to get to the retention ring. Annoying, but I haven't given up quite yet.

Very technical description, thank you for taking the time to add in some more information. And adding in some corrections. Have a great day!

I just figured out that you can add "Corrections" into youtube-videos. I just did that for the "Copal sizes". Not perfect, but at least it's pointed out and I don't have to re-upload the whole video. Thanks for pointing it out to me, I've always called it "copal-sizes", but I stand corrected. Have a lovely evening!