We noticed it when it rose flush with the driver’s footwell carpet. There’s a big void beneath the carpet that gradually filled.

That’s right. If it fails the thermostat won’t open and water won’t circulate through the radiator. The engine then overheats. Some cars are designed to fail with it open, which is better but comes with other problems.

I would be thinking the thermostat will fail open, preventing the engine getting up to full temperature, which may prevent the car from doing a particle reburn. No guarantees but I’d replace the thermostat for a low temperature issue. White smoke and unburned fuel may be a separate or connected issue. Historically I’d have said a suspected valve issue, but on a diesel I’m not so sure. Is it a diesel car or is yours petrol?

Not that I noticed it, no. Thanks for watching.😊

Yes, but you may need to loosen the handbrake adjuster too. Mine had built up a lip on the inner edge preventing them from sliding off, so loosening it was necessary to allow the pads freedom to clear it.

I don’t believe ELV and LV are permitted in the same duct under BS7671 due to the inductance risk. Flexiduct would have worked okay, and may have been easier to work with. Thanks for watching. Steve

@@SteveWardellDIY Ideally you would run a separate trench at least 30cm away but who wants to do that, unless its a really long run its not likely to have any effect on cat5/6 cabling but to be sure use shielded cable that will protect against any electro magnetic effects, I tend to use double shielded cat6, it has an outer shield and then each of the pairs are also shielded. I'm a fully qualified spark, there is nothing in BS7671 that bans it especially shielded ELV cable. You can actually get EV ultra cable now which has power and Cat6 in the same cable so if running a cat5/6 shielded cable within the power cable is no problem then running it in the same duct will also be no problem, I have done this lots of times and its not an issue.

Hi there. The subfloor is dirt in this property. So long as you ventilate the sub floor properly, with air bricks at each end, I hope you would find this insulation method works for you. I don’t know where your pipes are. You’d need to find out.

I hope you’re inspired and decide to take on a little shaft polishing of your own. 😂

Water would boil at 100 degrees. Oil gets much hotter before changing state, causing greater expansion to the ring. Thanks for watching.

I hope you found it helpful.

@@SteveWardellDIY yes but newer cars don't have this option they want you to buy new headlights ... they wanna make more money

Sad indeed. I’ve found the same with washing machines. They’re made to be unserviceable 😢

it is a crime , but handy people like us always find the way to fix things and save money i guess👍

The effectiveness would be much less with the vents above the floor, and sealing the void with the insulation with no ventilation beneath could lead to unwanted moisture build up and timber rot beneath the floor. Best have it surveyed by an engineer before deciding the best course for you.

that is exactly my big concern. Thanks Steve@@SteveWardellDIY

Me as a diyer, the only option Isee here are telescopic underfloor vents@@SteveWardellDIY

It’s 2024! The car was built in 2006.

Absolutely yes, and I discovered the continuous foil upper surface with foil tape bridging the joists provides a vapour control layer. Thanks for watching. Steve

Actually Hew, having seen the product at a trade show, I’ll be using Gapotape in the future.

Thanks for watching Hew, and for your feedback. Using a saw creates dust and I wanted to avoid this. The knife is a steady and reliable way of cutting dust free, but takes practice to use accurately. It’s tricky on thicker sheets and probably best avoided on anything thicker than 75mm. If I were to do another project with large volumes of insulation I would invest in a fine toothed reciprocating saw and guide. There are some good products out there.

Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.

Thanks! 😄

I reset the fault code on the code reader. This should be in the video, at the end. No other reset was needed. Thanks for watching.

@@SteveWardellDIY I was thinking about the initial adjustment to default after replacement. Thank you for video.

Yes I should Uwe. My fault for expecting one to be in the box with the valve. Thanks for watching

Thanks for watching MrB. The room does not get as cold as it did, but doing this through the whole ground floor is needed to make the full difference. Also, beware the need for air to ventilate the fire/wood stove if you have one. This room now sources its air from the rest of the ground floor.

Thanks for the insight Mrdubomb. Painting would definitely help prevent it rusting again. There was no issue with rust oversize on this one, so maybe I was lucky. The rings are designed to shrink tight when cool, so shouldn’t need to be held. I’d already changed the sensor and found it had been rubbing, so refitted the new one at the end to check all was okay. The shaft nuts were new too, though I wasn’t clear in the video you can see it’s shiny. I agree it’s best to change these. Thanks for watching. Steve

There’s two nuts, and I did. Cheers

👍 @@SteveWardellDIY

Yes, that would definitely allow more room for insulation. I was keen to leave an air circulation gap under it where it passes over the timber bearers beneath, to help keep them dry.

That was from Carpet Right Stuart. It cost a few bob but was worth it.

Thanks @marcopolo

@@SteveWardellDIY your wellcome!

Thanks for watching @danyo1972 it’s definitely better than it was.

Thanks for watching. This was a particularly troublesome job, but I feel it’s good to show the tough ones along with the easy ones. Cheers, Steve

I’m unsure where you think the moisture would come from @kevocos, as the subfloor is ventilated and the foiled internal side provides a vapour barrier preventing a dew point further down. If a hygroscopic insulation were used instead it would absorb moisture and risk transferring it to the timber, causing the problem you’re concerned about.

Thanks for watching George. There are some new serrated knives and battery operated fine toothed saws on the market that would make a more accurate perpendicular job of it. I like using a knife as the dust produced is minimal. Using a saw means vacuum extraction or a dust mask.

Theoretically the celotex doesn't need any DPM, as it is already damp proof. The difference is the way it is laid on the joists I think, as it should be thigh and airproof (that's why he's using silicone in the video)

Could do. It’s handy though, for telling the time 😀

So long as the sub floor is ventilated properly at the main wind loaded and opposite side, so that fresh air circulates beneath the insulation, the risk of damp should be reasonably controlled. If you are very concerned you could look to install a dpc across the underside of all timber elements, but it would mean lifting the joist bearers to get it under and behind them.