squidgy bit= "meat" of hand Thanks Dan!

About the oil sensor light, could it have anything to do with the tiny oil holes in the bar? I noticed that they tend to clog much faster then regular saws. I'm going to enlarge the holes slightly and see. This oil hole mod seems to be excellent on all my other saws. Thank you for the review Dan. Jim in Oregon.

That door looks like a Land Rover Defender. Would love one but need a left hand drive here in US.

Harken ninja multiascender

Nice one. Now I understand the difference better😊🇸🇪

Between the 542 and Milwaukee, which one do you think is more powerful when dawged in to bigger wood?

Interested to know if the cover doesn’t clog like the 540i with dust? The cover being wider for the clutch.

very helpful!! Thanks & greetings from germany

201TC saw user, but have had it break down 4 times……..was finally ready to go Battery, almost pulled the trigger on the 540i 5 weeks ago, they told me “um you might wanna wait 2-3 weeks, the 542i is almost here” Glad I waited for the 542i Thanks for all the details Dan!! Yet another fine job providing the arbor community informative content. PNW native

I’ve had mine for three weeks now I like it! Got 3 540i and the 542 def dogs in the bigger wood harder and longer 🫡

I'm just about to get my first top handle saw and I've been waiting for a review in the 542i before I took the plunge. I see the idea of it getting more complicated but clutches have been on 2 stroke saws for ever so I think they are pretty reliable by now. Yes the oil sensor could be a pain if it doesn't work reliably. On balance I will probably buy one as long as they are available to buy soon in the UK Also the extra efficiency may aid battery life!? Thanks for this and looking forward to the long term test review 😁

Great video Dan! I was very skeptical but your side by side comparison really demonstrates the benefit of the added clutch. Hope Husky sent you that saw, you are doing them a solid as an excellent spokesperson!

I’ve been half tempted to get one of these since I saw the leaked images about a year ago, I think I’ll stick with my standard battery T 540, As another comment said it’s just more to break, but I can definitely see the advantages

Thanks for the comparison! I run a couple 540ixp saws. There’s nothing about the new 542 that makes me want one. Its added complexity and $ isn’t worth it to me, when i need to cut bigger wood, i grab the 500i. I would have liked to see the new 542 model be made more durable instead of a clutch and oil sensor. Such as an aluminum handle that doesn’t snap when dropped from 5 ft… and a bar sprocket chain combo that uses a more widely available chain pitch & gauge

Thank you friend. You are make the world better with your work. cheers

You should do a video about how you sharpen your blades because if you made a battery powered saw last that long you must have a pretty damn sharp blade . Sharper the better.

At 4.03 you bout lost your knee

looks like a good way to get the saw stuck in the tree! i been doin this for 40 yrs or more! make ur back cut high enough , and there should be no problem with the tree trunk bucking back on ya

Nice angle & vantage point with your camera.

I wish you would demonstrate this on difficult branches. I can't find any videos where the branch has a bad angle to the tie in point and the branch is long with no side branches coming off. They tell us don't climb past 45 degrees but that's not reality at all. Can you make a video past 45?

In your falling course did they teach to hold the saw wrong or is that a self taught lesson. Never side bar. The correct way You take knees and hold the top bar to use the break Because if the saw kicks because it hits an old T post inside the tree you don't cut into your chaps or leg when the chaps don't full lock up the chain with kevlar. I have yet to find one cut that can't be made by using good body positioning and correct hand holding of the top bar to have access to the break in emergency. Read your manual.

This is one of those knots where one can easily see how to tie it by looking at it. These types are great for people (me) who don't use knots often. Great demo of this, especially with the position of the carabiner at the start.

Nice video! Tnx. You can eliminate 1 cut though; by making the first horizontal plunge cut in a slightly downward angle. This will eliminate the need for a second horizontal plunge cut and will still give you enough room for the pivoting stump.

Wow, haven’t seen old farm fence technique in a long time

Loving this method!

Use drone to get line up? Tie to larger line if need. Shrouded props to help navigate through limbs. Could be precision stuff. A $35 drone and monofilament (fishing line) could thread the needle for larger lines tied to it. Watched a surf fisher drop his line far out in the surf with a drone much further than he could have cast it.

I made me some with a welder

So well done ! By choosing a really gnarled/dense tree, you were able to demonstrate the real advantage of this method.

Great review but I’ll never spend that on a jacket. Definitely will be searching the hunting section though

skotlandos yes

Thankyou, I couldn't remember the name of this, but I use this one.

I definitely agree that someone should learn both. I'd recommend starting with the most basic bc MRT requires less equipment and has many advantages. Then I'd teach SRT so they can really appreciate the added benefits of ascending effortlessly on SRT

Tidak jelas

Shortly after I begin trying to set throwline, my companion loses patience and climbs the tree by hand to set the line for me :)

Is it a good idea to tie a short piece of thicker line to the throwline, for the sake to grab it easily when throwing? Also what about very thin throwline (fishing line) like 0.5mm? Basically I have these questions because I had poor experience before, the line mostly got stuck. Either too light throwbag or too thick line. Deciding what to change :)

A lot of cowboy tree services will top trees or lion tail so professional tree surgeons are needed for proper pruning

The standing end...the one with the loop...is that loop with scotch tape? Because I'm not seeing how that loop is safe. But I thank you for the demo of the hitch.

Hey, is it ideal for singlerope without chicane. I need more for canopy anchors. I think I will order Petzl zickzack for me. My ropediameter is 11.5. will that work with zickzack?

I was wondering Dan if u could do a video on the Dan House conduit style friction saver? I like to use them in a girth hitch configuration when there's just a single branch with no union like a pine tree. 😮

Obviously a die hard Husky fanboi

Never thought I’d hear an aborist call tree felling as falling…

Aren't you doing the "steering" when you make the key notch?

✌️❤️🤍💙✌️😇🙏🤜💥🤛🤙💯✊️

Nice!

Ive started to like distel twisted back ..and michocan on 28 or 26 grabs more so wears out but like knowing its not getting twisted or losen up

Love the focus and epicord ..everyine in the states likes bluemoon ive tryed to tell them about yale focus ..great rope

Dan, I think you have a Master's Degree in Throw Lines & Friction Savers. This is a really great vid!

Geez, I wish all reviews were this thorough and went through this much testing. Thank you sir.

So dangerous to use tip of chainsaw like that this guy is a idiot