Yes definitely easier for sure but I'm a cheap bastard lol

Haha no I don't think so. Ol hips has been a great truck man. Daily drove it for ten years up until recently now it only gets used for work- towing trailers, hauling camper, hauling firewood

Doood it looks sick AF too. I may think about doing that at some point it wouldn't be terribly hard to do either with an aluminum transom to work with

That's great news nice work! 👍👍 The trim tabs I'm using work well for the porpoising but they're really a temporary measure. Ultimately we will be tearing the boat back down to install a much thicker bottom. And at that point, I was going to add a ride plate. It's the proper way to tame porpoising on a jet and very simple- you just adjust the plate down until the boat no longer hops. I'm doing more and more challenging rivers and I definitely don't want flimsy trim tabs hanging off the stern. It's only a matter of time before one or both is damaged. Ride plate is very strong rigid with the stern and doubles as a pump guard sliding over obstacles 👍

@@roncook8566 i like the idea of doing a ride plate. I think i will go that route before tabs. -thanks!

Yep we planned on a ride plate when the boat gets a new bottom maybe this upcoming winter 👍 trim tabs were just a temporary addition so I could throw a rooster for the time being 😊

I'm debating adding a ride plate on mine. The way I installed my intake is I machined the front down flat (round keel to flat conversion) to match the flat bottom of my hull. I left the back rounded and it hangs down a little and gets a good scoop of water. This leaves a 1/2" lip behind it where I can flush mount a ride plate without needing a shoe.

@@Superhonda-z50 if you do it before me let me know how it works! I'm planning the same thing I'd like to try and build the plate and skip the shoe

Yeah I'm curious let me know how it works out for you 👍 throwing a rooster is silly but dammit it's fun

@@roncook8566 hell ya, will do. I'm hopefully picking up my engine tomorrow, then I'll order tabs and whatnot. Gonna try those Bennet auto adjusters. Hopefully will be back on the water before the 4th

Thanks man really appreciate it

Anything bigger is unnecessary. Pay attention to the words in the video next time. It's been years now this winch has pulled several heavy duty diesel trucks and equipment on the trailer without issue. Putting a 12k winch on a trailer is idiotic you're rolling vehicles up ramps lmao they're not stuck in the mud 😆

@@roncook8566 not all project vehicles have perfectly aired up tires and ALOT of times project vehicles have locked up brakes I'll stick with my MAN winch you stick to the cute winches ok 😂😂😂 why the FUCK would I wanna continue watching a video of trailer upgrades when a guy has a damn 3 lbs winch on a trailer car anyhow ? I could understand a utility trailer but we're talking about equipment and car trailers 😂😂😂😂😂

I like my 12,000lb winch. doesn't work as hard, and will last a hell of a lot longer. I don't think it's "idiotic" we are all entitled to our own opinions and decisions. I wouldn't cut anyone else down and or make a bold statement that it's "idiotic" persay.. Just saying!@@roncook8566

Just measured it roughly it's right around 46" ish from the transom to the front of the engine and the engine width is altogether about 35". That being said the engine could be mounted 6-8" further back if you used a 12je or 12jf setback pump. I used a 12jc because it's split up into several different pieces (transom housing, suction housing and intake) making it easier to set up in a different boat. The setback pumps are a "cartridge pump" no transom housing, suction and intake are all one casting. Setback pumps do have the weed cleanout outside the boat, which is much nicer than my 12jc that starts sinking when you remove the cleanout cover. The other big reason I liked the 12jc is this boat is very small and I wanted the engine as far forward as possible. 14ft is really pushing the envelope considering the weight of this setup. The StarCraft has a 5'5" beam and it static drafts 13-14" I'm just not sure I'd use this exact power train in any smaller of a boat. You could save 100 lb using an aluminum block but that would require a heat exchanger and closed cooling

@@roncook8566 nice, thanks for the measurements. I picked up a JC pump, I'm thinking I may set it back, a lot of folks do that and should save me 10". I plan on using a 5.3 alloy block. I am also contemplating using a 2.4L Honda Civic motor if I feel weight will be an issue. The 85HP outboard and trim I had on this boat was about 300lbs, plus the weight of a 12gal fuel tank all in the back. I'd throw 4 grown adults on top of that and it was ok. My beam is 5-4" so it's really close to yours. Granted my hull shape is different as it starts as a V and ends as a flat bottom. I'm hoping the weight of the pump and engine, minus 2 adults will be ok. Who knows...

@@roncook8566 should also ask why you think closed cooling for an alloy block? Would it be too cold with raw water? In the jetski world we use flow control devices to limit overboard water, might be able to use something like that if it's the case of running too cold.

The frame width is exactly the same between all frames. 1 tons have narrower spring hangers. So no you cannot interchange a 1/2 or 3/4t axle with a 1 ton axle. Not only do the spring perches need moved, but the one ton shock mounts are also inside the frame and reversed side-to-side from 1/2 and 3/4t axles

The only time I've ever been able to make it cavitate is wot around a tight corner, and even then it rarely does it. I obviously built it for rivers but the boat does really well in very heavy chop. The deep vee hull combined with the added weight make it surprisingly good out on big water. Especially if you keep it trimmed all the way down cuts thru waves nicely. Never any cavitation tho even with following waves

@@roncook8566 Yeah thats a nice combo. I did a 787 seadoo in a 16 mod V and it hates chop following. Excellent down to 2" of river but not great at all as a big water boat. Been eager to build a starcraft 18 deep V tiller as my second rig just not looking forward to spending any money lol.

We put the boat together to see if it would function but the plan was always to test it out then bring it back in and flip it over and give it a new much thicker and much more true bottom. The boat was apparently beat up before I got it the bottom was rough and inconsistent and has a hook on both sides before the transom. It makes it so when you hit about 50 mph the boat starts to nose down from the hook lifting the transom. So yeah I don't really know fast it is yet until I can true up the bottom, which will hopefully happen soon. I want to add a swim deck and pump guard at the same time. The boat seems to have a lot of speed left in it but the bottom is kind of acting like a governor. All that being said the boat performs wonderfully as 25 mph river cruiser, and when I thought I was going to immediately fix the bottom, I ended up putting 100 hours on it instead lol. I'll definitely post some videos when I bring it back in we're putting at least 3/8" aluminum on the bottom

If you're thinking of doing an LS with a jet I would honestly jump right for a 6.0 if you can acquire one cheap enough. I started with a 4.8 because I wanted to start at the bottom and just make sure the boat would even function. The issue with Berkeley jets is impeller selection. The standard impeller is the A cut and it lets an engine with 300hp turn the impeller roughly 4000 rpms. A 4.8 liter isn't making much horsepower at 4000 rpms. So you're only option is to go to a B or C cut impeller- a smaller "looser" impeller that will allow the little engine to rev. The problem is putting in a much smaller impeller sacrifices low end thrust. It's a double edged sword. You're really better off starting with an engine with more displacement that makes more power at a lower rpm. I'm totally happy with the 4.8 for now, but when it fails (if ever) I have a couple 6.0s on deck to go in the boat

Open bow is super rare 👍👍

Yes the bottom on mine still definitely needs done it's almost bare steel 😆 with a nice coat of paint underneath seems like they would last forever 👍

@@roncook8566 definitely hold off the rust. I did make contact with them and you can get one that is primed and painted, rather than just painted.

Looks like around 2007 to 2018 Cummins 6.7 liter passenger side

You're right too I've seen some pretty sketchy hack jobs doing this conversion. Any inline six puts a lot of torque into the chassis as opposed to a V8, especially a diesel. That and these things really kick hard when you shut them down- almost looks like it's gonna shake the cab right off the frame lol