That's great to know - tnks for sharing.

Not yet - I may do a video on this in the future.

my pleasure!

@@czarmorerI have a question 🙋‍♂️…. Recent I changed my trigger bar and support spring on my shadow 2… now the reset seems a little laggy or slow… not sure if I need to bend the support spring hooks down a little bit? Or if you can make a video on how to install the support spring the correct way. Thank you 🙏🏼

@@alonsoarellanocarryoptics your reset is a function of both the trigger return spring and trigger bar spring (which is what I assumed you're calling support spring here). If by "feels weak" you mean just not tactile enough, then you might want to check if you tighten the screw which keeps both the trigger bar spring and magazine release spring enough. If that is lose, it will cause this symptom. If it's tight and you still have not enough tension on the trigger bar spring pushing the tigger bar up, then try bending the trigger bar spring up a bit.. Go incrementally here, just a little bit at time and test it again and again until you have it like you want.

@@czarmorer thank you so much… yes last night I was messing with it and I think I fixed the issue… I moved the trigger bar spring back a bit… it was moved forward and it does make a difference… so in other words the trigger bar spring was moved forward more towards the back of the gun … and I noticed once I moved it back more towards the front of the gun and I held it in place and tightened the screw, then it felt better

they are great!

Shouldn’t stone be wet?

Brasso and a Q tip are handy as well.

thank you! I'm glad you liked it.

you're welcome 🙏

I don't think so...

That "rolling" feel is pretty characteristic of CZs and it has to do with how the sear and hammer are matching each other. You can actually make by polishing if you don't know exactly what to work on. What you can try is to play a bit with different hammer spring weights. Sometimes a heavier main/hemmer spring helps reducing the rolling and creating a better defined wall... But it comes at the cost of a heavier DA pull as well. The other thing to try is replacing your hammer/sear or fitting them to each other, but I don't recommend playing with it unless you know exactly what you're doing - As you can make your gun unsafe or nonoperational pretty quickly if something goes wrong on the sear/hammer engagement.

That's a great idea! I don't have knowledge of this upfront though - I know of some compatibility (or lack of) between different models, but not really enough to make a useful video out of it :(. The other day I learned that Canik's mags fit on the Shadow2 for instance - I have both guns and did not know that... As I learn more about it, I will keep in the queue for future videos for sure.

@@czarmorer Regular 9mm Canik mags? I have to try this next week between TP9 and an SP-01 and S2. Thanks. The latest Archon pistols should also use S2 mags, but I couldn't test it yet.

400 and 800 respectively

I don't know for sure about the plate, it wasn't my gun 😌 For fitting the disco I use a file to start and then stones from 400 to 1000 grit until fitting it perfectly.

I haven't watched the video yet but I just fit 2 discos in my S2 OR and S2 Compact. I used an inexpensive 600 grit diamond file and a lot of test fitting, then 1000 - 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper to polish them. It worked just fine and the triggers are amazing. It was a blast getting the SA pre-travel just exactly how I want it.

@czarmorer I shouldn't have been, I guess, but I was very surprised at the amount of control you've got in getting the SA pre travel just right. I'm really glad I gave it a try. My S2 OR came with a terrific trigger out of the box, but my S2 Compact didn't. I figured that was a good excuse to try my hand at fitting a reach reduction disco. I also figured I might as well see if I could improve upon the S2 OR's trigger. Worked great, and it wasn't hard - just painstaking. And heck, I can now disassemble and reassemble any safety based CZ75 with my eyes closed!🤣

An aftermarket bushing does create a tighter lockup with the barrel, which in theory will give you better accuracy - It will also likely outlast the OEM bushing. However you shouldn't expect to see much of difference, if any, on accuracy when shooting close distance targets. If you're not shooting bulls eye at 30 yards targets, you will likely not enjoy the benefit of the added accuracy by an aftermarket bushing.

@@czarmorer i compared Orange 2 and Blue 2. no difference for me. trigger actually was better on blue

@@igortsuker2884 That doesn't surprise me - The biggest difference in the orange model is the 1911 bushing they added to it. As far as I understand it, they also hand pick the parts selecting the best fit to build the gun, and the gun itself (the orange) is built by KMR, not CZ itself. Although this will yield a superior quality, and more consistent gun when compared unit to unit out of the factory, it doesn't make the trigger itself necessarily better. There is however quite a range when you compare the other models (Blue, Black, Urban Grey etc) unit to unit - Meaning you might be lucky and get a Shadow2 blue with a considerably better trigger... Or be out of luck and get one that the trigger is much worse. In general though, it's safe to assume the Orange model is the best one out of the factory. And, of course, I'm considering the guns out of the box, with no modifications. You wouldn't be comparting apples to apples if the blue one has been worked by somebody, or has had performance aftermarkets parts installed, compared with a stock Orange. An upgraded/worked Shadow2 Blue will beat a stock Shadow2 Orange every day all day long!

@@czarmorer i agree with both statements. and there is room for improvement on both with some polishing

@@fci501 right!