This is not Deadener, but it produces a similar result in cured silicone.

Run a test and see how you like it for that. The clear formula we sis here was soft and flexible, but did not have the tear strength of our translucent formulas.

It won't make the PlatSil Gels clear, just soften them.

@@bitymoldsupply Yes, I know. Both the Platsil silicones are cloudy/white, at best. And, the "Faux 2 0" is "water clear". But, can the "Faux 2 0" be deadened with the "Prosthetic Additive 1" as much as the Plastil silicones? That was my point.

Adding silicone pigment would be the only way I can think of to control the clarity.

This can be accomplished in a few different ways. 1. This would involve multiple pours, each with a lessening or greater translucency. To help hide the transition between each layer, you will need to roll the mould at a slight angle, extending the silicone up the side of the mould. In essence, you would be extending the "Miniscus layer" around the edges of the casting. Let cure, and repeat with the next layer to progress the transition. 2. "Intrinsically" paint the transition into the mould, before casting the silicone solid, behind it. To do this, start by painting a thin "skin" of the silicone into the mould negative. Then proceed to paint in the transition into the mould, make sure you use ONLY silicone-compatible paints or pigments. Finally, back the painting process with more silicone. 3. "Extrinsically" paint the transition on the outside of the casting. This would also be the weakest method in durability. 4. A combination of all three proposed methods. This would provide the best possible results of all, and it would allow for each technique to compensate for any discrepancies of the other techniques.

You could definitely add some red silicone pigment to color it.

Glad it was helpful! Thanks!

I have not seen it wear off yet.

You could use more prosthetic Gel 1, Telesis, Snappy G, or Silabond.

You can also paint with 5110F provided you do the painting as soon as possible after demolding the original 5110 or 5110F cast. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d853ZLSbq9-3eYk.htmlsi=7572JAvzQmXLnpKf

A silicone mold would be ideal. 5130 or 5140 would work well for that. Both of those silicones will accept resins and polyurethane foams as well as more platinum silicone with the right release.

This is a very stable formula. We have been testing it for while with very good results. It does not appear to leach much, if any oil.

@@bitymoldsupply That’s really excellent. It looks super sticky, though… With a skin of another silicone and matting powder, would it be reduced to normal silicone tackiness? Oh, a question that I’ll try to remember to call y’all with on Monday if it’s not a quick yes/no here! For silicon powder, I’ve heard of wet and dry applications, but I haven’t seen anyone mixing it into the silicone itself before applying it. If I could mix an equal amount into both parts A and B (separated) and bring it back inside before applying it, would that cause problems? Or is it doable? (Asking because my current setup isn’t necessarily well ventilated enough for dusting a reborn with the powder, but I can’t just stand outside to do it… Well, maybe if my partner helped set up my wheelchair out there? But it isn’t as promising. I can stand for short periods of time, but not long ones.)

The sticky form of this formula would rarely be used without an encapsulating layer of more silicone or cap plastic (for prosthetics). At the end of the video I use additional Prosthetic Gel 1 brushed into the mold as a skin and then back fill it with the heavily softened Gel.

Just a different way, mainly for silicone makeups. Gel = no dust.

Thanks!

In my to-do list!

I’m not sure if the 1:1:2 ratio works out to 200%, but it would stick at that ratio.

No. This is used instead of powder.

I have heard mixed reports on SLA resins. There are some that do not inhibit platinums and some that do. Hopefully we can compile a list of compatible resins at some point.

This is an option with no solvent that can be applied to skin if necessary. Very simple and fast.

This was originally formulated for makeup applications on the face. How that translates to other areas of the body is above my pay grade!

It dries and feels like silicone.

Thanks!

I have not heard of any issues with baked sculpey, but it is always a good idea to run a small test to make sure platinum silicone will cure over the pattern.

@@bitymoldsupply I'll do that. Thank You for sharing this it means a lot to me for progressing my artist career! I' learning a whole lot!

What we use in this video is it: SAM-32, OSS Solvent, and silicone pigments. There are links in the video description and additional resources on our website. Thanks for watching!

Thank you for noticing!

I don't know anything about that latex. Best to do a test and find out or call the manufacturer.

We are out of SFP right now but we'll have it back in stock soon.

Thanks for watching!

Just about all of our translucent silicones will work for that, but the OO30 and OO50 are the most popular.

@@bitymoldsupply Can you give us a brief understanding of the differences between 0030 and 0050? And do you have any smaller containers of the ones that work well for tattooing prosthetic so we are able to do some testing to see which meets our requirements?

@@DjMrGrimM OO30 is the softer of the two, being similar in feel to an earlobe. OO50 is about like the tips of your fingers. We have another KZfaq video on tattoo skins. I’ll post a link to it. The smallest kit size we offer is 2lbs which works out to about 50 cubic inches. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fMCBicqh0KjScWw.htmlsi=U45rCh4OH7KRsYsM

You're welcome!

Thank you sir!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks

Depends on what silicone you are using and what the print medium is.

40-60psi

If you are casting a prosthetic in our Prosthetic Gel 1, you could use more Prosthetic Gel 1 or a silicone adhesive like Silabond.

You can, but it is easier just to re-make it on the skin again. When I first started using this technique I did that a few times, but I discovered that it really didn't save silicone as you still have to mix a small batch of silicone to adhere the wound.

I have a framed picture of late customer and friend Jack Wolfsen holding a 2" brush he used hundreds of times. Not sure how much he spent on solvent to preserve that .45 brush, but he did make it last!

Excellent!

the 10 scale seems like a strong and usable silicone it might just work

We have customers that do exactly that!

Our 5092 sets over just about any surface. It is a Tin Cure formula that is almost impossible to contaminate.

@@bitymoldsupply thank you !

Glad I could help!

They are definitely demented! Thank you!

That is up to you and your moldmaking/lifecasting skills!

Glad you liked it! We will be posting more content on new products soon!

I have not seen that happen unless the flocking was in part A or B and unmixed.

@@bitymoldsupply OK, thank you. Ill give it a shot then.

Lol!

It’s a cold patina, and kind of funky. You could even say it’s a funky cold patina…

Why, thank you!!🎉