The design is close to the German AC motors! It just needs an electromagnet instead of the permanent magnet.

Great deal you got there! Once in a while someone doesn't know the value of what they're selling, so it's always good to be on the lookout for those deals.

@@DarthSantaFe after I bought them the vendor told my they sell for a pretty penny but I know what I was getting and getting into whale I was at the train show I also got a Texas chugged for 10 dollars too and a mehano 4-8-2 for 20 and a cox f3 for 5 bucks

@@danielgibson1656 Wow, so he was just letting them go for cheap then! I have a Bachmann 2-10-4 I bought for $50 at a train show and have been working on getting into running shape, and even that was about half of the going price on eBay. I also once got an Athearn U30C for $2 that just needed a good cleaning.

I always have a set budget of 40-60 bucks and I can usually get some really good deals one thing that helps is that I'm quite the bargainer and bargain finder@@DarthSantaFe

Good that you were able to get those! People selling those brushes now charge as much as getting a whole replacement model.

It was sold as a kit ready to build with skill since it would cost double if they did it at the factory. Worth more built right.

Bakelite doesn't take to well to painting.I painted my Bakelite Lionel observation car and the paint flaked off.

La pintura no necesariamente detiene ese óxido a que se refiere, sino es una impureza en el zinc a la hora de fundirlo y colarlo en el molde, ese proceso viene desde dentro, es progresivo y nada lo detiene. En alemán le llaman; zinkpest.

I might do that at least for the sideframes to help them keep their cleaner appearance. I do the same for the polished brass, copper and nickel parts on my prewar trains to keep their shine.

​@@22763344 I think he was referring to the surface oxidation of the metal exposed to the air. It definitely won't stop the zinc pest, but it will at least help to preserve the color of the cleaned metal. (Traducido por Google) Creo que se refería a la oxidación superficial del metal expuesto al aire. Definitivamente no detendrá la plaga de zinc, pero al menos ayudará a preservar el color del metal limpio.

I did accidentally warp a zinc piece once while using a blow torch to melt lead into it! I thought of heating the sideframe to straighten it, but with the amount of visible fracturing, I decided not to risk it.

I created the file for it. If you want to print one out, just e-mail me at darthsantafe@gmail.com and I can send you the file.

3-pole motors are at least easier to rewind, but the ball bearings can also be hard to deal with in these. It would be great to have it running again someday, I’m sure!

I took a close look at the screw to see if something else was needed, but it really was just slotted for a flat blade screwdriver. My guess is the metals oxidized over the years and got stuck together, or the screw may have even been forced in instead of threading it properly.

It might, but I’d be concerned about how long the solder would last since it’s a soft alloy. It works well for hard connections, but I haven’t had much success using it in more flexible places.

Thanks! I hadn’t heard of them before, so that’s good to know.

@@DarthSantaFe They are tricky to bring up right .If you search for it .Will bring up a PDF type of page that has all listing to enlarge .That is not it.The site page you need has 2 flags on it American and Italian TAN BACKGROUND and all the parts info and prices so you can order.They have parts for that motor ,top plate brushes and springs ect.... Click on the American flag and the site will go to English .Has part categories on the left of the page unless your fluent with Italian .

I edited this to get you a better description of the site. I ordered from them to get screws and side frames and all fit and look good along with containers they put the parts in is high end .

@@adamserafini6945 Thanks for the info! I did manage to find the website and see the part you're talking about. I'll probably leave it off, but it's good to know they're available if I ever want to add it on.

@@DarthSantaFe Those brass gears have an issue with a certain type of synthetic lube that has a chemical that eats the brass. There is a type 4 and 5 .One of them eats the brass. I agree with your assessment of the model somewhat compared to the proto ,but a huge part of model railroad history or say engineering quality of it's day.Great to have a gem like this that still operates. Besides they had metal grab irons all around the thing that came with them that were pre bent with that Rivarossi quality precision to them .Should finish yours.Find that B-unit of that era is how rare?

Yes, but these older magnets sometimes lose their strength when removed from the field, so I wanted to be sure that didn’t happen. I also didn’t want to deal with the tiny ball bearings falling out. :)

TBH he’s something of a lightweight, he can rig an old Bachmann to run but I’ve never seen him build an old metal kit (for instance). His stuff is useful if you’re trying to resurrect old cheap locos though.

@@kriscarver-seaboyer9204 He doesn't have as much experience as I do (I've been at it probably 15 years longer), but he has come a long way! I think he did build a Roundhouse kit a while back and has done good work fixing some old models that were in really bad shape. We all have to start somewhere, and learn with time.