It´s great to upgrade the Chiron to Klipper. Also upgrading the bed is nice. However, I am not sure Switchwire is the best option to go. With a printer this size, it is already limited in accelleration due to the big bed. And you normaly set same accelleration in x and y. So if you convert to klipper, imho using a longer x-axis and a second extruder (or at least keep this option open) would be the right think to do. Of course using belts on z to get rid of z-wobble is an advantage of the switchwire. However, you can use belts without using coreXZ. There is an interesting conversion on an ender3 based on the voron 2.4 z-beltsystem. One downside of such a big printer of course is the time you need to print. You can use bigger nozzles of course. However, you see this in the results. This is one advantage you get if going Idex instead. You could use different nozzle sizes. While no slicer supports this at the moment, you could combine gcode slized with different settings depending on the layer. So for example first 4 layers with 0.4mm (and maybe multicolour with ercf) at 0.2mm layerhight. Rest with a 0.8mm high flow nozzle at 4mm layerhight. Just modify and join the gcodes accordingly. Duplex and mirror mode are not usable with an idex at this size, esp. with bedslingers, as ABL correct the z-height depending on the position of the head. As both heads always have the same z-height, but different positions, they would have contradicting needs for z-correction. So I strictly recommend not using Duplex or mirror mode. However modifying to (I)DEX without support for Duplex and Mirror makes a conversion more easy. You can adjust different z-offsets in software instead doing a manual calibration to get the nozzles to the same hight. If only one head is used and the other parks outside the bed area, both nozzles do not need to be same hight. You might even use totally different printheads. I am also not sure about the linear rails for the bed. Maxbe 12mm hardened steel rods and brass bushings might be a better solution. Cheap linear rails are a problem, as very precise ball bearings are expensive. Also you have to service them regulary (grease them), while self lubricating brass bushings are not only more quie, but also practicly service free.

You said you had layer shift in Y. Thats why i dont tune my Chiron anymore. I let it stock with klipper good is. In future i will build a Ratrig with the motor and stuff but this big slinger is not worth the time to upgrade. Except you got 2 and can build an new CoreXY with that. But then its a diffrent printer

what kay-bak did you use? I'm converting a CR-10 to SW, I got one as per the guide for SW but it's short (13oz)

Hi, great video that's inspired me to build some of these models. Would you please do a video showing how the lights are created using the Arduino Nano and perhaps also the wiring and code to hook into the two channels. Thanks.

Wouldn't happen to have the link where you found the skirts that fit?

Can you give me an estimate for the cost to do this? I am using 1 of my 2 chirons and have other printers. Your video makes me want to possibly tinker with my chiron im not using. Now that you can buy a sovol s08 for around $600-800 i need to compare prices.

Which one you think is best as a crawler. I Printed both Landy (2 door ) version and the Toyota but the Pickup version, both feel really top heavy. Personally I prefer more the Toyota but IMO if you install shocks greater than 80mm does look right and its easy to tumble.

Hello, great work. Please what tyres/insets you used? It seems to handle the weight of the model very well.

Nice upgrade series...that layer shift ... I know that you've done so much already but, I'm pretty convinced that Anycubic realized this issue, hence why they used the dual shaft stepper motor with 2 belts on the Kobra max for the Y Axis afterwards... maybe you could get your hands on 1 of those stepper motors (or the one for the Creality CR M4), 2 GT2 10mm pulleys, a few meters of 9mm belt and 2 idler wheels... I have the Kobra Max and I plan to do Y rails soon... Im not a Voron guy so I plan on just using my Creality sonic pad for the klipper and moonraker and camera input... i may switch the X axis for a stock extrusion for linear rails too... but I don't want the work of maintaining lots of belts and pulleys. Nice results tho.

Muito bom o vídeo amigo está bem realista,👍👍👍👍👍😍🤩

Great video cousin!

Austin buddy, nice printing and detail. i have been printing for about 8 months love it so much i bought another printer. I feel cabable enough to try something like this. You should see this guy! www.youtube.com/@greenboy3d

This was really informative and eye opening. Thanks for sharing 🔥 What length shocks do you have on the Trophy Landy and the beige Landy? Is it the +10 or the +20 axel you have mounted?

Really nice shots! What cam are you using? And holy moly, those geared gearboxes are loud! One of the reasons I have converted all of those to belted ones on my cars :) - that and I got bored of replacing broken gears...

hey austin! im very interested in doing a similar build. im wanting to do the x and y as linear rails and add the stealthburner mod / have it run on klipper. my question is can this be done on the stock board? ive done a klipper build before so overall i can dive further into it. but im just wondering if the stock board is capable of using a stealthburner/klipper setup and still be able to heat the bed

P R O M O S M

Send it!

Looks like a good time!

Very nice build how long did it take to print? Also is this PLA or PETG? Thanks. I am new to this. If you have any other videos or how to's please let me know.

Beautifull retro model i love it :)

😮 very cool!

3D printing and cars, next we’ll find out you’re also a drummer 😅

There used to be a club up here in Washington called "Hatch Patrol". I haven't seen or heard anything about them in quite awhile...I wonder if they're still at it. They were pretty crazy!

I have been looking to do this Switchwire mod on my Tevo tarantula pro for a while but had the same problem with the frame sections being different sizes. This x and z drive mounts will work perfectly. Great video mate and a very nice Switchwire mod 👍🇦🇺😊

Van is awesome

ciao e complimenti x il lavoro, sarebbe fantastico un video dettagliato su come installare klipper grazie

Did i miss the second part? Love ur project! ✌🏼

Nice drfiting with the kei😊😊

Nice conversion, I'm working on one as well for my bedslinger machine... just curious - that rattling noise during XZ movements - did you bother finding what's causing it?

Before social media ruined the world. Love the genuine camera work. Very glad it is unedited. Editing old videos is like putting filters on selfie posts :)

Yes the weight (about 4kg) of the Y Bed ist the only real thing that limit this Monster. I peel off the Glas Ultrabase and replaced the Sliders wiith own designed and printed Parts made with PETG. Now its less than 2kg and i noticed a smoother movement with less vibrations. It's not perfect yet because of the thin alu-heatbed there is a strong bending when it is heated up. Thinking about a rigid but lighweight solution so far..

That Brat ripping around is pretty awesome

Hello, nice build. It is very good looking. Wich ESP do you use ? Greatings from Germany. UB

Are you using the stock XZ tensioners or custom ones? To my knowledge, after tensioning, the fastening bolts don't have anywhere for the T nuts to grab-onto since the Chiron has 2040 extrusions instead of 4040 extrusions for the base.

Great footage Austin!

The Great Challenge! I am impressed.

Thank you for making this available to the public. These trivial recorded images will become valuable cultural materials through the ages! It will be a few decades before mankind will know about it I'm sure our grandchildren will be very pleased.

Great footage Austin, brings back memories from WCSS7. A lot of clean looking cars making a great show!

Thank you for your videos. I bought two CR10 Max motors for the y axis. Nick parsons has a STL file on printables for the second Y Axis motor mount for his Kobra Max. I think it’s usable.

Thank you so much for posting this. I am in the process of building my own Chiron Switchwire and your videos are very helpful.

Yesss!!! This is super cool. Clean build man! I’m running dual Y motors on my Chiron, in series off the same motor driver right now. Try this to potentially eliminate the Y layer shifting. I want to follow in your footsteps and convert my machine too, this is bad ass!

I think the octopus is overkill for a switch wire, you could use an skr mini e3 v3 for this build because you don’t really need that many stepper motor drivers.

That’s sick! Gonna be able to make so many with the Chiron switchwire

I love that van! So cool.

thanks for the video mate. If you get around designing the skirts ans covers for the electronics please post it and use the remix so we can make the Voron model. JamieG

Very nice to see this build process. i'm having a chiron laying around in pieces and like to do this conversion. did you already have it printing ?

How did you get the lights?

Excellent work! Did u paint it, or was it printed in color?

Very nice scale build.

Wooow a tope crack 💪