Starter motors have shunt winding which causes back pressure this increases torque if you missed that step try cutting out the shunt winding

Multi rotor pancake motor.

Ебать какая шляпа. Шел 2024год, а человек ради контента изобретал велосипед.

Wow! You look like normal Sheldon Cooper.

Circulate some 3M Fluorinert though the stator housing. It worked for Seymour Cray. :-D

Next video: Airstriking my neighbor's house [with POV]

please provide the purchase link of every parts for this project.

Supplies needed in this kart

sub-SEEquent?

I think an aluminum or copper heat sink would be far preferable to drilling holes in the housing. It's always possible that you could find an extrusion that fits but if you have access to a good mill & use a half-inch plate of aluminum, or maybe 1 inch, you could just mill channels in the plate till the deepest cut leaves the thinnest parts about .030". Then just find something to wrap it tightly around the motor housing, such as a large hose-clamp. You could go one better & attach fan blades or a large computer fan to the back of the motor. So long as you make the fins of the heat-sink parallel to the rotor shaft so the fan pulls the air in the most efficient direction. I would try to keep the motor under 200 degrees F to be on the safe side.

This is only going to be as cool as the quality of the onboard camera.

austin, make a DIY toolpost grinder for your lathe and grind the rotor magnets round....

only watched because i knew it wouldn’t be a good idea - the engineering was good despite the poor starting hypothesis.

Good job

This guy ended up made a wholey new motor with order parts and already exist used parts just for a bike. It was like buying a restaurant for a one plate of food. 😂 Wasted everything. 😂

Great Video. How about adding regeneration to the BLDC motor so when you apply the brakes you generate power back into a Super-capacitor to get you going again before using the battery, saving battery power.

8:41 “Custom Parts Make Easy” you should really advise them on how to say that properly

Dude, shoot those off an RC plane.

you could easily sell a product like this with scripting for different games

you should check out holmes hobbies. he has youtube channel and makes THE best hobby rc motors in the world

Non puoi tornire i magneti ?

well the thing is that by training a better model you might be fixing the accuracy and stability but not the path decision mechanism

Buy a ready to go motor

Most likly weak magnets. Id get some strong neodymium magnets

9:00 way she goes boys

awesome job!! 👏

good job!

High voltage pwm with current limit

I love all of your videos...but every time you mispronounce the word "subsequent" wrong, it makes me cringe. But great work on this project had no idea this could be done.

personally I don't like permanent magnet. that are pre magnetize. that can be decrease the magnetic power when using long time and it can be effect to efficient of motor. why we cant use induction motor. please advice me if I wrong.

there is something off putting about your face

I made a stator by soft soldering iron sheets together, then machining the stack, de-soldering it all and then gluing all the sheets together with epoxy soaked gaze. Gluing it from the beginning wasn't good enough for the machining and leaving it soldered would have negated the hole purpose of laminating.

One possibility to better approximate an arc magnet is to use several narrower bar magnets. This is similar to how we approximate a smooth curve as a bunch of short line segments. I don't know if you could find magnets of those dimensions, but I would suspect it might be easier than finding those large bars. You can use almost any size you want if you don't mind sticking a bunch of them together along either the width or the length. The strength of a magnet is roughly the same as its N value. N42 is somewhere in the middle. You could get N52 or even N55, but that's only 25% stronger - not enough to explain the difference between your rotor and the one from the other BLDC motor.

sweet build. Why did you choose BLDC instead of induction via shorting the commutator?

The EV Car Industry such as Tesla could probably employ a young man with incredible drive and ambitions. Greetings from Australia.

Converting an alternator into a motor would also be a fun project. They are already wound three phase.

Please if you use a controller that has a hall line do you have to use it?

How did you bolt the end plates to the motor housing?

من نمیدونم چرا کیر شدم با این یارو کسخل اون سیمپیچی DC که بجای سیم کلفت اونجوری سمبل کرد . بعد با اون آهنربای تخت .اشکال کار اصلی ورقهای استاتور یک لایه نازک سیلیکون دارند تا با هم اتصال کوتاه نشن در اثر جریان‌های فوکو ..تو با اون سمبل کاری و تراشکاری .بازده موتور را نسبت به مصرف انرژی خیلی پایین اوردی

*Respect!* I tried to use a small 400kv bldc motor to drive my bike using emery paper on the outrunner bell pressed against the back tyre. It worked for a few meters and burnt out! Was incredibly hot to touch, but fortunately it looked like the magnets survived. It took a while - sourcing the right AWG of wire, 15T x 4 strands, 12 poies and 14 magnets, and finding a hydraulic press to release the core, took photos to record disassembly and managed to recreate winding layout and it worked first time! Would have been much easier to buy a new one, but the satisfaction was priceless!

I would have made the core slightly larger and chucked the rotor in the lathe and turned it down to the proper OD.

Use an alternator with the tree phase control and modify the rotating field with permanent magnets so you don't have to use energy to drive a field coil.

I don't know why, but that magnet was pretty intimidating for me.

If you have an interest, you could redo your rotor by milling flats for the magnets, then using soft iron 'shims' on top of the magnets to minimize the radial gap. Minimize the thickness of the shims to the degree possible. The shims will be approximately the same dimensions as the magnets with a flat side to yh magnet and a creved side towards the stator. Would be interesting to see what kind of improvement you could make with this arrangement using the same magnets

I highly doubt the airgap was the problem for your motor - if you do some simulations then you'll find that the difference between 1.5mm airgap and 0.75mm is nearly neglible. Instead what you may have done instead, was mess up with putting the block magnets on the old rotor. See - you used two of the block magnets in a row, and doing this immediately strikes me as odd, as the side-by-side magnets will repel from each-other if placed "correctly" with the same polarity exposed. So could it be, that you accidentally put a south facing and a north facing magnet side by side in a row, as that's the position the magnets would "want" to be in. So, unrolling your rotor would result in the following kind of polarity: ~N-S-N-S-N-S-N-S-N-S~ ~S-N-S-N-S-N-S-N-S-N~ This kind of mistake could leave you with a motor that just about works but would indeed have extremely low torque and of course be super inefficient.

Wouldn't it be easier to take a ready-made motor from an electric power steering?

Should use 'Slot Paper " & lacing for end turns also dip or pour varnish, of stator. US Navy rewinder, 2- years.

Watch me basically build a bldc motor from scratch...

I was expecting 3-10x for the cost of a custom made stator

Talk about reinventing the wheel. There are already many types of BLDC motors on the market covering all requirements . Wasted energy.