My dad was a mechanic in Mexico. I saw him did so many engines n shit in our garage. Good times.he had a super B moppar and I dindt knew wat it was.

My father did this. Had a 7 second n/a bug in the 60-70's. He told me all the crazy stories. Chainsaw boats, go karts. Building cars for all kinds of thing from drag racing to demo derby. Wish it was that easy now days. I felt awesome when I turn a vertical shaft motor to a horizontal shaft. Showed my dad and he was like yeah that's the stuff we did. It was a better time back then. As a mechanic and auto body tech I'd prefer the 50's

Bateries aint cheap tho ....

QAAAÀAAÀÀo

MY father was a birdwatcher! *sigh*

A millennial with a brain !

You were working since the day you were born, Incredible? Or were you born when you were 14?

You worked there your whole life? Were you there from the day you were born?

Hugh Jaanus Apt name. At least you're honest about it.

Thanks baldy.

Person? What an insult... just kidding.

@@sir_john_hammond I think he ment about the "geek" comment. Me personally I would take it as a compliment.

Thomas Furmanek yes, just poking fun at his choice of word order.

@@sir_john_hammond after rereading papasmurfs statement I see what you are saying.

old mechanic here too ... wish someone would have told us we're going extinct

To some, if it doesn’t use gas it’s bad!

Some folk think disliking will remove these types of videos from their suggested videos.. so most likely nothing personal against this guy or the cart..

I only considered disliking because he was sending Sparks from his Dremel right into the front alternator bearing, that alternator could turn into a big hunk of scrap metal very quickly if any of those Sparks make it past the seal on the bearings. I didn't dislike the video but I know several people who would for this reason and I wouldn't fault them for doing so.

Well actually continued usage of that construction as it is, would result in the catastrophic failure of the batteries, which would catch fire or even explode. Not pleasant. I know what you mean, but some negatives are probably down to that. It's a dangerous design.

Bad soldering jobs give me seizures.

There's one of him to every hundred kids with no discipline who live in their cell phones who think communism is perfect and that it just hasn't been done properly yet. *sigh*

Amen

Gaaaaaaaaay

Heh heh heh

Heard of an electro mechanics chair,,,(copy, and assisted mobility,,,

It is indeed fascinating ! Keep up the good work!

Watch out u old fart some smart arse gonna think u were born-a-building! Lol, Coming from aold 75 yr-old builder/fixer,,, lol

"and then slide one into the other" - I know (I sense) you mean well, but this particular passage would need either more words or hopefully a YT video showing the technique. Thanks though.

CriticoolHit lead solder should be fine. It thermal expansion and contraction that typically causes cracked solder joints, not mechanical vibration.

This guy is lucky he got the direction of each stator winding correct, because there is no way that 'start' and end' of each winding set can be determined by a simple continuity test. Too easy to have 2 in correct same direction and the 3rd in an opposing magnetic field orientation. This MATTERS, be it star or delta connected. So, solder if done correctly, might be good for a test, given the equipment to correctly determine this magnetic field directions isn't a garden variety instrument. BUT it's a pain... easier to use insulated screw tunnel connectors [the type electricians use in house wiring]. Once proved correct the far better way is to use a crimp connector, NOT dodgy solder as seen here, for the solid stator conductors to the flex cable. CRIMP connections if done correctly are always far better than solder in an automotive application prone to vibration like this. Frankly, the best way would be to take each stator winding to a 6 terminal block mounted on rear of the alternator rear housing and then bridge however you want [star or delta] and terminate the flex leads there.

less handsome guy in picture will be even better 8))

15Watt hours? or 15 amp hours? big difference on a 12/14volt system

Howdee Andrew, 1 Amp hour at 14.5V - is 'watt' this bike consumes when it is traveling on a level path at 18KPH. It travels 4KM per 4AH battery, if I run them flat, but that's not such a good idea with these LiPo cells. I could make it go faster, with a higher DC supply voltage, but there comes a tradeoff between speed and range, so I have opted to settle for this rather sedate 18KPH speed :) .

Braking?

Braking is partly done by the alternator, but mostly by the bike's existing brakes.

+Perkins_RC76 If you can walk at 7 mph, I would like to see that. Maybe make a video of it? Maybe become an Olympic race walker? The true walking speed is closer to 3 MPH, so my 12 MPH bike is a LOT faster than mere walking speed :) .

No no no he never showed the rotor of the alternator, the alternator has permanent magnets, why he did not show the rotor, their is more to it

I learned something new by that bit of workmanship

Bullshit dude. Do you not know the purpose of a diode?? Ya, they only allow electricity to flow in ONE direction. That is the sole purpose of diodes.

@@JM-yx1lm which is why you hook up the input wires between the diodes and the stator, not on the outside of the diodes. The connection on the outside of the diodes is what would lead to the rotor, and this output from the diodes leading to the input of the rotor NEEDS to be dc, which is why the diodes are actually beneficial. This idea would work just fine and is actually a pretty creative idea for regen braking too if you have some switching regulators, proper controllers, and protection circuitry in place.

@@JM-yx1lm you easily used BS when in fact you don't know what he mean or you just had a very little understanding on how the system was wired.

You all don't know what your talking about. You wire the diode in series with the bridge rectifier opposite of the primary phase Feild winding. The other fields you wire in parallel. Besides the resistor on the commutator only puts out 5 milliamps. 😜

@@JM-yx1lm Diodes have many purposes, unidirectional current flow (under 'normal' conditions) is only one property (although a universal one). LED, zener, tunnel, schottky... and some of these are useful precisely /because/ they conduct in a 'reverse' direction.

Hi, can you explane me has alternator a brushed dc motor or brushless dc motor? in vids. 3:05 he said we put brush to the place but he used brushless speed controller. If I use alternator, What kind of speed controller I should use?

@@cahitabdullahmisirli8424 Alternators are a milestone piece of technology, and uses some clever technologies to achieve what they do. A typical DC brushed motor uses an arrangement of permanent magnets on the stator (around the outside) with two or more electromagnets rotating on the central shaft, and whose polarity is switched to ensure each electromagnet opposes the stator magnets. With me so far? An alternator, on the other hand, just flips the concept inside out. Now you have coils for the outside stator with an electromagnet on the central shaft which gets DC power through a pair of slip rings and brushes - the rotor's magnetic/electric polarity is not switched with rotation as it does when using commutators. When vehicles used generators for power, the speed of the engine would cause wildly-variable output voltages that were difficult to properly regulate. The alternator changed that, varying rotor speed was no longer a problem because very precise voltage-regulation is done by simply varying the voltage going to the rotor electromagnet. The strength of the rotor's magnetic field controls the energy induced into the stator's windings, and can precisely control the output power. In this project, the DC power level of the alternator's rotor would be held constant, while the stator windings would be sequenced with varying speed and power levels to spin the output shaft accordingly.

Is this why many motors have a centrifugal switch? I knew position 1 was for torque and position 2 was for high speed but I didn't know the theory behind how it worked. But I think my example demonstrates what you are explaining. Im on the verge of a Eureka moment when it comes to electricity, I just need to keep trying. Im a master at engines and mechanical things, just not electricity yet.

@@SquillyMon It might be, but depends on what kind of motor and implementation. Some AC motors, like large ones for air conditioner compressors, have a start capacitor they use to initially spin up the shaft. Once they reach close to running speed, the centrifugal switch takes the start capacitor out of the circuit (best research it on google books because hard to explain without diagrams). On some DC motors that switch can do many things - for example the field coil and rotor coil could be wired in parallel for starting (so high field current and high torque), then switched to series at higher speed (so lower current, lower back-emf and hence higher possible speed). These days I don't think centrifugal switches are that popular. You can do a lot more using electronic control, which makes a mechanical switch kind of obsolete except in special cases.

Understood... The last example I saw was on a clothes dryer... I'm familiar with the capacitor start motors i.e. on my large Air Compressors. I literally dream about one day being able to think outside the box with electricity the way I can with machines/engines etc... Mechanical Mastery I've got. Electricity?...not even close. Can you recommend any books or videos that might be able to give me a good foundation for electricity? I consider no material too simple...in fact, since I'm a simpleton, I'd like to start with simple. I actually just read from a book from the 1800's about Teslas many theories, A/C-D/C current, poly-phase motors etc...but it started to get over my head in a jiffy. Also another book from 1962 targeted for teaching 4H GIRLS about electricity!! LOL, They were actually quite informative... I don't care where the info comes from because its all good stuff in my opinion. As long as my curiosity fuels my desire for knowledge, I know I will become more proficient, because you have to stay curious!

No idea about books of the level you're looking for (I'm a mechanical engineer, not electrical, so my own textbooks are rather simplistic). The howstuffworks website was useful to me to get learning the basics but there are other, more dedicated websites that will teach you in greater detail. Here's one that describes the various methods of starting a single-phase AC motor (one of which is the capacitor system I mentioned in my other comment): circuitglobe.com/starting-methods-of-a-single-phase-induction-motor.html Lots of good resources and info on that site. It's technical and complete, but not too complicated to follow along.

I really appreciate you taking time to respond, I will check it out!

Microwave Dave i was thinking the same thing about the terminal. Not a normal failure mode.

Interesting. The one battery was warm but the terminal was burning hot. I did notice that three of my terminals were loose so this could have been the cause of what happened.

Yes it is definitely the terminal that was loose.

the battery should be fine if you were doing

Check that all of the electrical connections are tight before you apply power. The bolted connections like on your battery should be tight enough that finger pressure cannot make them rotate around the bolt. Crimped connections should be pull-tested. This was part of the standard QC procedures at the two places I worked at that manufactured large 3-phase motor controllers.

Tom Carrick lmao

😃🤣

Ba dum, Tshh

Isn’t this the part where some idiot says “I see what you did there”! 😂

MrChristianbowman82 yeah probably

I agree... I'm a little behind on the electronics but I hope this young man keeps up the good work and stays humble. the world could use a few more leaders like this guy.

Great stuff, my fumbling accidentally hit thumbs down , sorry

This is how hybrid cars work. They are efficient because the engine can operate at its optimal speed at varying loads

Uh not normally. A 40 amp fuse can carry about 32 continuously

@@STRUTZKOFF As a retired ASE Master Tech, I can tell you that fuses are thermal devices. So they can open at 32 amp in a hot engine bay or 48 amps in a cooler cabin. These are sensitive to temperature and not so much current. I have a two page sheet that cover newer fuses starting with the ATC/ATO and up, but explains how they work, where they get their names, usage and a temperature chart from ACDelco.

@@STRUTZKOFF Fuses protect against surges not against continuous power

@@thecloneguyz there's fuses for both continuous power and for surges, that's why some fuses are called fast blow fuses and summer called slow blow fuses.

You don't need a 12v controller for that, just any ESC with a BEC would work. You would have higher rpm but also lower torque and from what I understand it'll be harder to turn because the back emf that the controller relies on would be reduced.

@@lazyh-online4839 I dont think just any standard 3 phase AC ESC will control just a voltage on 1 phase. You do need a brushed controller for that.

I love you bruno! plz give an update on the feasibility of the electric road bike as a diy commuter

sieve5 hahaaa thaaaaanks mate!!! Yes it's feasible converting a road bike, it's nice cause it's so light so it accelerates faster but I ALWAYS recommend people to convert MTB and use as a commuter. The reason is you're actually averaging much faster speeds and too speed too so you really need suspension and a fatter tyre. Potholes at 50kmh or faster on a skinny road bike you're lucky if you don't get pinch flat or hurt your wrist. Fat bike is AWESOME super fun but a bit overkill. Everyone likes different things, I still riding my road bike sometimes just for fun haha =]

That is actually what “sets” the phasing of a motor or alternator... how the windings are wired and in what configuration...

ElectricBike defiantly right on the li-ion batteries 6 sets parallel but if he has thr cash he can get samsung 25r 18650 batteries they are 20a continuous discharge 3 or 4 10s or 12s packs in parallel would be a great setup.

Punchable face, eh?

I just imagined having him standing with the same face he have all the time in front of camera, just looking at me waving.

brazing is pretty strong but its definetelty not welding :-)

I bet he is smart enough to know that. I'm for the high discharge rate.

@@bbstacker70 the motor and controller wires all have much smaller cross section than the battery terminal so they would burn up before the battery terminal. He also only shows one terminal burnt. If it was high current through the battery, both terminals would be similarly burnt.

Creating Creations o Òff roaderes

High performers off roadres

Hello good morning friend to know what type of alternator you used what features is the alternator and which brand thank you

Dove si Coperativa l'acceleratore grazie bel progetto complimenti per i tuoi video

I seriously doubt this will work for very long. Stock alternators can't use much power either. This is likely an 80 amp alternator, which is less than a kilowatt. The bearings are not designed for this kind of torque either.

Mr. Clifford Johnson is

Codz_526 you could just use the alternator for that, just need a controller built for it

I thought about doing that with an Arduino mega, you can use the Arduino mega as a bldc controller with the right code, and then when you press the brake have it switched to a different set of code that instead of putting constant voltage to the rotor and alternating the current to the windings, it switches to a variable voltage to the rotor based on how hard you're pressing the brake pedal, while the output from the statter windings goes through a switching regulator to keep it at a steady level for the battery, this could be made even simpler by hooking up the controller output between the diode and the statter so you don't have to take out the diodes, that way the output is already rectified to DC and you can just switch it off externally so it's not draining the power that you're trying to feed into the motor. Sorry if this doesn't make sense I can be explained it if you want me to.

thank you for the like

A bit late, but there is an important piece of information missing here. The polarity of the 3 phase coils. He either got incredibly lucky or forgot to include this in the video. Flip a coil and the motor will only growl, and the current draw goes through the roof - blown ESC. Polarity can be determined by examining the diode connections or by applying low voltage AC to turn it into a transformer and measuring the induced voltages.

@@eulachonfish hi, finally found someone who mentioned my question. im looking to do this myself, as my dad left behind a bunch of vehicle alternators, and was wondering where the three wires comeing off the coil go too. i dont know a terrible lot of about this kinda stuff and wondering where i could learn

@@explosevgamr5349 I'm a winder electrician by trade and this sort of knowledge is quite esoteric and a little hard to explain in detail without a pen and paper in person. If you want to learn the details you may be able to find a local winder willing to share info with a hobbyist. However if you have only 3 wires you are in good shape - it is already set up star or delta and you don't even care which. DO NOT separate any of the coils further than this and you are just fine - changing the order will only change the direction of the motor and will not hurt anything. See this simple article for a good start: hackaday.com/2020/01/16/car-alternators-make-great-electric-motors-heres-how/ Remember that an 80A alternator is designed to handle 80A when cooled by the fan running constantly at a fairly high speed. An ESC can throw that 80A at it at any speed, which will provide tons of torque but cook it quickly if you don't either gear your vehicle to cruise with the alternator spinning fast or add an external cooling fan. Luckily alternators are pretty tough. Good luck with your project!

@@eulachonfish oh awsome, thank you so much man! This is actually really helpful. Do you know where I can find info on how to find rewinders? And thanks again, I appreciate it greatly

@@explosevgamr5349 Local phone book or business directory, look for electric motor service, motor rewind etc. EASA is our trade organization and I believe they have a directory. If you find a small shop and business is slow the guys may be willing to help you out for a box of beer, otherwise you could probably bring one alternator and the ESC and pay an hour or two of labour to get them to show you how to get it running. Once you know you can build as many as you want. Haven't done the alternator conversion myself but am planning to play with it this winter - I have a dune buggy type vehicle in mind with a pair of alternators driving the rear wheels. Cheap thrills

I would like to help Just tell me an email so i can help with pictures and videos

Even 8p of recycled laptop batteries would be pushing it. You'd have hideous balance problems too. Better just use like you say, power tool batteries, hobby lipo (provides the most oomph for sure) or buy brand new 18650 cells. For range, i'd go with the latter, for drag racing, hobby lipo every time

Oh, I did just build a 21s8p with sony vtc6 cells. Spicy little battery hahaa

th3d3wd3r you can’t have balance problems with cells in parallel. They will always equalize themselves. If one is much weaker you will have a problem with the other cells having to charge the bad cell. But that’s easily fixed by just putting similar capacity cells together. I hate LiPo personally. The majority of the Lipo i’ve owned puff within a year, and they are a bit scarier than li-ion

All well and good if he's going to run a go kart at 3.7v ~ 4.2v. He's going to need a good few cells in series to get 48v Some Lipo is crap, others not so much. The 16Ah 6s multistars are cells of legend

Eric Fling Eric do you mind tutoring a little on that subject? I've got some experience with 18650 cells and enough around right now to learn on. I have a bike project also and plenty of cordless tools and no shortage of electronics to power. I would think enough on hand to learn a few things anyway.