Awesome, glad to hear the video helped and you were able to get the job done. It's tough for sure, especially when the bolts seizes in there! Thanks for watching and the great feedback!

I do everything on mine but I gave up on this and took it to have them installed since I already needed an alignment after putting struts on

thanks for watching and the comment. appreciate it!

Awesome. Glad to hear the video helped. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for the great feedback, glad to hear it is helpful. Thanks for watching.

I agree. Love to hear d.y.i. or improvisation stories like this. I make the video trying to stick as close to OEM specs as possible, but if that worked for you, awesome news for sure!

Good tip. I never heard of evapo-rust, so I will look into that product. I imagine it works similar to other rust breakdown products, but I am always looking for new products to test out when I work. Sucks about the bracket...your car is grounded until that comes in. But that is a good price for the bracket. Hopefully it comes soon. And I take it from your name that you own an FC?

No problem at all! Thanks for confirming on your GP, and everything got sorted. Thanks for watching and the great info/feedback

@@NexusAuto Still having a problem . This big bolt we were talking about, even when out of assembly having taught time to screw nut on. Tread does not seem to be damaged. Any suggestions. Got replacement arm from Canadian Tire and getting ready to assemble.Thanks

@@MrRapanui1 unfortunately, it's hard to say what the issue is without seeing the nut, bolt, or trailing arm. It's possible that when trying to remove the bolt, it got warped. Or the nut itself was damaged from years of corrosion and wear. Have you checked the nut to make sure the threads inside look OK?

Thanks for the tip. Will definitely be helpful for those watching. Thanks

Exactly use a breaker bar and pipe

No problem at all

Thank you for the suggestion. Definitely helpful for future viewers.

That's very true. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find a new bracket where I am (here in Canada). But if they are available, importable, or even getting a used one from a junkers, can save a lot of trouble for sure. Same with the bolt too@

@@NexusAuto Awe well. My friend. There's a place here in Canada called '' PARTZ AVATAR '' that sells automotive parts, And they sell the individual brackets with brand new bolts, AS well as the trailing arms. So if ever you change another trailing arm. Look them up online. You can order the part, No matter what it is or year. And you'll have it in a few days :) They're pretty well priced too :) I just changed a trailing arm on my 08 Buick Allure which is the same arm as your car actually, So thats how I know :) Cheers , And I love your videos :)

No problem at all!

Thanks. It takes time to get all the tools. All depends on how far you want to go! Maybe one day you will 😁👍

Thanks!

No problem at all. Glad to hear the video helped in confirming the set up with the knuckle. Once it's stuck, it's such a pain to get out. Thanks for the tip as well, and thanks foe watching

While I hear you with loading the suspension, trust me when I say it makes little to no difference on this car. I have done these cars that have not been exposed to my weather conditions in canada (mainly, road salt is the culprit) and even with the suspension unloaded, those knuckle bolts come out with one really good smack with a hammer. Many cars benefit from loading the suspension, but it does not apply a lot of pressure when unloaded. Even with the car jacks at the rotors, that bolt will not come out with a solid tap. The corrosion (seen around 14:00) will completely prevent that. However, if I did jack up the suspension, then I would not be able to easily and successfully work on the bolt (hammering it, torch, etc). Hence why it was not jacked up. But in warmer (and less salty) climates, your point is definitely helpful. Thanks for watching too.

Right try telling this idiot that!

That is a very good idea. Antiseize wouldnt hurt at all. Thanks for the great feedback

That's one of the reasons I like the southern US. The corrosion I have to fight with when doing car work is brutal sometimes. You'll love these trailing arms too. Far sturdier than the stock ones. Thanks for watching

Nexus Auto zzp makes chrome moly tubular ones. they're lighter and stiffer. however they're $120 for the pair...

Wait, what? It bent just from leaning on it? Then it sounds like your trailing arms are in pretty bad shape to begin with :| sorry to hear that happened.

@@NexusAuto - Thanks to your video I was able to go to the store and get the tools that I didn't have to do the job. I saw how much Garages charge so I figured I would rather have the tools and do it myself. Awesome video!

@@darykinnaman2319 awesome! That is great feedback. Love hearing stories like that! Glad it all worked out.

Thanks a lot! I appreciate that comment, great feedback! Glad to hear the video was helpful

I'm doing great, thanks for asking. I hope the same for you!

Damn, that sucks! Hope it all goes well tomorrow!

@@NexusAuto at least it wasn't my struts! I had just gotten them replaced! It's on it's way to being a brand new car! My ABS won't go out! I changed hubs, sensors! It comes right back! You know what thats about?🤔

@@lordmalice8368 hard to truly say, as there is a few components that can go wrong. But the next thing I would look at is a loose or damaged wire somewhere. It would be great if you could get an ODBII that can read ABS...it would tell you were the fault was. At this point, it's just a guessing game

Yea my snapped too from rust, this is 2nd one to snap

Absolutely. I did soak it for a bit, so I should have gone for some heat. Heat fixes all LOL.

No problem at all! It is true, the stamped arms junk, but they are functional. Millions of these wbodys had them, and generally, people get by with them. But they do have flex in them especially as they age. For an answer to noticeable benefit, that all depends on your driving style. If you drive 'normally' then you will likely notice very little difference between good condition factory arms and upgraded boxed arms. However, if you ever have a damaged, rusted, bent, etc trailing arm, and you decide to change them, get the upgraded ones for sure. Sounds like yours are OK, so no big rush However, if you are an...aggressive...driver, or if you happen to take the car to the track, then you will notice the difference for sure, especially in cornering. If that's you, the upgrade is worth it

@@NexusAuto Well I was looking for a weekend project and the local Summit Racing store had 2 of the trailing arms in stock so I figured they might as well be mine. All the upgrade projects on my Comp G so far have been with handling. Poly bushings, Moog endlinks, strut braces, anti pogo washers ect. Going faster is gonna have to wait. You cant always go fast, but you can always enjoy good handling.

@@DG-bp8xb awesome, sounds like a solid project for the weekend. I completely agree...I call it the tuning trifecta. The first 3 things I always do when building a car is suspension, brakes, and tires/rims. If those 3 aren't good, then power doesn't matter (my thoughts, anyways). Plus, it's exactly what you said...I assume you are in Canada or the US? Then as nice as the power is to have, can't use it on the regular streets (legally, anyways lol). But handling is always useful!

@@NexusAutoYes, I'm in Western Nevada, 10 miles from the California border, and right at the base of the Sierra Nevada mountains. Lots of winding roads and elevation changes here so good brakes and handling make driving a much better experience. Thanks for your response and keep up the great work

Thanks, appreciate the feedback. Keen eye on the jack. It is a newer jack and is very solid. I watched it and definitely saw the dip, so I checked it out and tested it, and it is all good. My guess is I did not tighten the handle all the way when jacking back up. Appreciate you looking out...most would not even mention it, or notice for that matter. The trailing arms I purchased are from Dorman. They are fully boxed and way stronger.

No problem at all. Glad to hear the videos are useful. Unfortunately, the negative camber issue would be related to something else. A broken link would cause the car to have unusual handling in the rear, but it would not directly cause negative camber. However, the broken link can cause another component to stress (like the lateral links of trailing arms) and one of those components would cause you camber issue. So there is a very good chance you have 2 failed parts...the link, and something else.

@@NexusAuto I haven't got to the rear brakes yet, did the front with no issue but because of the negative camber I've been hesitant. Thanks

@@slimdot7031 No problem. Hope you get it all sorted out, and its not a high cost fix.

Haha I hear that. It's a giant pain once stuck in there

It could help if you feel the jerk coming from the rear of the car. Also, when driving, it should feel like the car is sort-of off center. but other things can cause that too, like the lateral links or rear stabilizer links, so it may not be the reason you are getting that side to side issue

@@NexusAuto oh okk thanks I'm jus trying to see wat the problem is...cuz I got an Alignment and it waa still doing it

@@joelove9330 No problem. Hope you get it figured out. Check these arms to see if they are bent...just use something really straight like a ruler. They bend pretty easily.

Nothing may happen. The problem with tightening the bottom bolt while it's hanging is that it puts pressure on the hub, and the bolt may not tighten properly, give a false torque reading, or not tighten quite straight. If you're lucky, you may be fine, but if any of the above happens, it can cause premature failure of the bushing or bolt

Thanks for the heads up

Hmmm, good question. I never checked an 89 Camaro. I would imagine they would be bigger on the Camaro, but you never know.

Same design

Hey Shannon. Thanks for watching. I love posts like this...a lot of great details, tips and questions. i will try and address it all lol. First, glad to hear the video was helpful and entertaining. It is definitely the goal when I put them out. Thanks for watching too! The torque numbers were hard to pin down. I checked in with a variety of sources online, through some Grand Prix clubs, and through a contact at a local GM dealership. I was getting mixed numbers across the board (weird, I thought), so I went with the most consistent numbers across all recommendations, and that is what ended up the video. I find it very interesting that both the factory manual and Haynes manual had more consistent numbers, and that the number differ from what I had, especially the arm to knuckle bolt at 177ft/lbs. This is significantly different from the numbers I had, and in fact, no one had reported numbers that high from dealership or clubs, but I did see some sources online that high. As i can normally find pretty consistent information, I was surprised that I could not get a proper torque configuration for the trailing arm. If that is what your manuals lists, i see no problem in going that tight, except for arm to knuckle. Play that one by ear, but I think that also depends on the model year. I know that made a lot of changes to the Wbody in 2004, and I am not sure if going that tight will cause any damage. If you have a pre-04, go for it, Post 04, I would say be cautious when going that high (and you do seem like the meticulous, caution type, which is always a good thing). Doesn't hurt to let the shop double check it too. If they will check the numbers, all the better! Whew, that inside wear looks like a huge issue. The misaligned trailing arms would definitely contribute to that. Sounds like you have done a lot to the car. With such a fresh set up, you should hopefully have remedied that inside wear on the tires. The GPs do have a natural camber alignment in the rear that favors a slightly inside wear, but it should not be that bad. I just rebuilt my suspension as well (all done at the same time as this video, with trailing arm replacement) and it runs beautifully. Those boxed trailing arms are a worthy investment. So much more solid vs. the stock ones. You can definitely do this job wheel on, but with a couple of exceptions. First, you are absolutely right. Having the tire off helps with the filming for sure. Especially since not on a hoist, this helps with lighting and getting good camera angles. The other reason, as you may have semi-alluded to, is with the corrosion present in the knuckle, I would not have been able to get the hammer in to hit that bolt out of the knuckle. Otherwise, you can definitely do this job tire-on. Anti-seize never hurts at all. I actually really dont use in on my applications (caliper torque member bolts, suspension, heavy duty bushings, etc) but it is always a good idea to add it. And adding to the threads of a heavy duty bolt is a common mistake, but not always a big issue. But you are absolutely right about the torque numbers and tightening procedures and how anti-seize can affect that, and i'm glad you mentioned it here. It is a great tip. HAHA, you noticed the leak from my compressor huh? LOL. good ear. It was a long-overdue problem, and it was the hose fitting that was leaking. I have since replaced it and run new lines as well. Lines were fine, but I changed my setup a bit, so figured some fresh lines would be a great start. You have a great set up too! What a difference having the right tool in any situation makes. It can mean the different between taking 10 or taking 1 hr to do the same job! Thanks for the like on the detailed. That is exactly what I figured...those who like the detail, will watch. Those who don't can skip ahead. If I did it the other way around, it just would not produce the same quality of work. I see you are very detail-oriented...awesome! :) I will definitely keep your name i mind, in case I need some torque numbers or manual help. I appreciate the offer, and all sources are always welcome. Thanks again for the comment! It was a great read and I enjoyed responding to it. Take care!

@@NexusAuto yeah that meticulous/OCD made it difficult for me to make money as an auto tech.... I was a Midas tech for several years, but the OCD and other disabilities forced me to end my automotive career.... Got lots of knowledge or can figure things out.... But I'm slow and employers dont keep people around like me. My torque wrench tops out at 150 anyway. So currently the rear bolt is at 100 ft-lbs, the front bracket bolts at 40....and as you said in vid, you can't get a torque wrench on the front to bracket bolt due to body/subframe hitting. I could torque it off the car in a vice, but as i understand it, you should do this torque with weight of car on ground/wheels. So far it drives fine/no noise but always has (mostly).... I just plan on asking tires plus whom i have lifetime alignment with to check them for me.... But day after installation of trailing arm, their alignment machine is down... Go figure! Now a days i Uber/lyft drive when my disabilities/pains allow. I want this alignment as perfect as I can get... Last year i put 20k business miles alone on my car.... And Mis-alignment is not covered under new tire warranty or road hazard. What makes me mad is this should have been the dealerships problem, as i think i mentioned b4 there is a paint mark on top on the dent in trailing arm... (i didnt do this and am 2nd owner, dealer bought it from enterprise rental and gave me the gm certified 5yr/100k warranty....they showed me inspection sheet and how everything was checked over. The hell it was checked or they didn't want to pay for it. My 1st set of tires about 4 or 5 years ago from NTB wanted to align (said no). Both these and original rear tires also wore down to inner side to steel belts. Point is SOMEONE KNEW about this problem and chose not to fix it or tell me about it. LESSON LEARNED ALWAYS GET YOUR OWN USED CAR INSPECTION WITH SOMEONE YOU TRUST!

Sorry to hear about some of your trials, Shannon. I completely get it. You obviously know your stuff, and would be an asset to the business from a knowledge perspective, but I find these days, (as it has been for a while now) it's not necessarily about the quality of work, but about how quick they can get the car out the door. With those torque numbers, you should be fine. But it definitely would be a good idea to have that lifetime alignment warranty invoked if possible. It was unfortunate that the machine was down...what timing! But I love that the company offers that...no many do these days, I find. At least, in my area they dont. I can see why you need to make sure the alignment is in top shape. With those miles racked on, you need it to be as smooth and worry free as possible. Happy to hear you found a position that works within your pain and disabilities. And having a Grand Prix as an Uber/Lyft vehicle is a win for your customers I hear you on the dealership. I had my fair share of dealership issues before...enough to be cautious whenever I help someone purchase a car. Even with myself, I've had to correct dealer issues many times. There are a few good ones, but overall, I find they always cut corners and half-ass things when selling the car, and deny deny deny afterwards. They really hit you hard there...sounds like they knew for sure, or had some idea. They just glossed over it and hoped you either wouldnt put 2+2 together, or make you have to come back and pay them for the repair. It's a tough lesson, but it has steered me to where I am today. Getting screwed really early on with my life with dealerships and mechanics both drove me to pursue one of my passions in car repair.

I thought, I would report, the trailing arm DID FIX my alignment issue...ALL NUMBERS ARE NOW WITHIN SPEC. Can I get a WOO HOO? I plan on rotate, balance and alignment check about every 2 or 3 oil changes, I use Valvoline Full synthetic and change every 4000 miles. I checked those Torque numbers with Tires Plus (I told him the numbers I found and used) and he found that rear bolt spec is correct at 177 ft-lbs. And he was comfortable putting it at that number being such a large bolt. He put the front bracket bolts at 50 ft-lbs (ten higher than mine). Now that front to bracket bolt, unless there is some kind of specialty torque wrench, you can only do it off the car in a vice (like your video) but then you don't have the weight of the car suspension loaded on it...So I am comfortable with a good snug down and loctite if you feel the need. I say, keep an eye on it and only loctite if it starts to work itself loose. I am currently working on my own KZfaq channel (still editing videos), I've got an interesting turn signal switch replacement video on this car and some unboxing/set up/how to vids.... Nexus, when I am up/running can I get your permission to post a link to my channel? You can be my 1st subscriber?

Hey Shannon, sorry for the late reply. You can absolutely get a woo hoo!! Glad to hear the car is all set and ready for some further driving! Considering the driving you will be doing with the car services, I think you have a great plan ahead. Thanks for the heads up on your findings with Tires Plus. Looks like your numbers are within spec now and that will all help with driveability and alignment. Your proposal for the loctite is sound as well, and worth checking periodically to be sure (maybe as you do your maintenance on the car) Hmmm...a turn signal switch replacement video huh? Sounds like direct competition to my video...I am not sure I can support that lol. I jest, of course. I do not mind throwing a quick shout out to your channel or subscribing first. But I would only do so after observing the content and feeling it is something I can support. The more information out there, the better, but I have to be able to endorse the content. If I check it out and I thinking your content is great, I will give a shout out and sub. If not, then that doesnt mean the content is bad, nor would I mean to offend. Just means that it either needs some polish, so to speak, or maybe it does not line up to how I put out my content. Case in point, my original content was far worse than it was now. No tripod, very shaky, to close up sometimes, I did not show all the work, and a whole lot more. I still have a long way to go, but my content now is much different than when I started. When you start putting out videos, do let me know, and I will check it out for sure.

Great tips! And good idea clarifying too. Trust me, someone would eventually comment.

That would definitely work. It is kinda funny, as I mention that exact point in other videos, but somehow missed mentioning it in this video. Thanks for the great tip! Very helpful for other viewers!

That is old school, good one!

Depending on how mad it is, the rear of the car will feel weird and loose, like it is disconnected from the front or wants to do something else. You may not feel it so much at slow speed, like making a right on red, but if you are going on an off ramp, it may feel like the rear wants to go in a different direction. Aside from that, you may hear some rar clunking noise and the tires will wear unevenly.

Back end might fishtail might feel weird odd noises

@@NexusAuto literally so lucky I procrastinated before attending to my duties about 2 hrs ago. Mines snapped after a speed bump. I was feeling awkward motions beforehand in previous he rides so I was on the look out which in case my 3k system just stopped playing a song and I could hear weird knocking every now and then on the road. I stopped and checked under the car once and in my trunk assuming something was rolling around. Pulled off and heard the same. Stopped in a parking lot and shined light under there (2am) and low and behold the mf was broken 🤦🏾‍♂️.

@@saucegucci1987 damn, you definitely lucked out there. Better to have checked it at an early stage vs it breaking on the highway or something. At least you found the issue. Just got to get them changed.

It's a Mag torch I bought at my local parts store. Not really strong enough to cut, but it has gotten me through a ton of tough situations. great for loosening up rusted parts.

I upgraded and overhauled my entire suspension. That included stiffer trailing arms

Depends in which bolt. If it's one if the upper 3 bolts, then it's somehow became stripped inside the holes on the body and it just spinning. If it's the lower bolt, there may be rust or corrosion holding the bolt in (called a rust ring) that allows it to spin, but the bolt is still stuck. Sometimes some PB BLASTER or a torch helps with that (but not everyone has a torch)

I got them off and changed trailing arms still clunking noise

@@KDBM8519 damn, sorry to hear that. Try using a plastic mallet/hammer and tap around the rear suspension. It should give a dull *thud* sound. If you hear a higher pitched *ting* sound, that may be the clunking part. It's not a perfect method, but it does work more than not

No problem, glad to hear the video helped. The drano thing is interesting....I'll give that a try next time. Thanks for the tip!

Sorry, but you are wrong here. The trailing arms do not become loaded when hanging, so they do not carry the load weight of the brakes and knuckle. This is simply corrosion around the bolt. If you ever seen this job done in somewhere south, then the bolt comes right out. Even if it was, if you watched to 23:00, you can see the trailing arm is completely off the car and the bolt still will not come out. This is what happens in somewhere north, where road salt is an issue. Corrosion/oxidization is something that is all too common

Hahaha this made me actually LOL.

It has been pointed out to me that I did not lubricate a few times in the comments already, and to be honest, no idea why I did not. I do that all the time, and it is even seen in other videos when I work with metal and corrosion. I think in getting everything ready for filming, I completely forgot. No idea why...such a noob mistake. But so it is...at least the video is helpful overall.

Not very much the lateral link carries most of it

You shouldn't need to get an alignment done, but it wouldn't hurt, especially if you had other worn components. But Trailing Arms should not directly affect alignment.

I agree. I try and be detailed in my video, but this was longer than it should have been. One day I may remake it. Who knows.

Acetone ! well hell ! Thanks.

Haha very true

I hear ya, and I do get the occasional comment about that. But I also get a lot more comments about the detail. Much better to put the detail in, and those who don't need it can skip over it, then to not have it at all for those who enjoy it.

yes i see where your're coming from.. i had a selfish moment, dont mind me lol. Target met mission complete. THANKS

LOL no worries at all... It is a valid point! And thanks for watching too!

I listen to these kind of videos on 1.5 -2 on video speed. Gets you there much faster even if the person is meandering

HAHAHA wow dude, you seriously have too much time on your hands. Over 10 comments? All this does is create engagement on my video and gets more people watching, and helps me out. Appreciate it. But let this bad mechanic address some of your stuff here. The only 2 things I would have added to this video were to spray down the bolt and to reverse the nut on to the trailing arm bolt before hammering. I know the rear trailing arm bolt has a large, curved, UNTHREADED rounded head, and even if it mushroomed, I would have no issues getting the nut on, as the threads do not start until nearly half an inch in. And you can see that at 29:32. So no biggie, it works (and it worked for all the people watching the video). But putting the nut on would have been far more logical, vs using what knowledge I already had on the bolt. FYI, for bolts where the threads start right at the edge (ie driveshafts) I do install the nut before hammering, if that is needed. As you can tell, I got the nut on no problem. Sorry you damaged your bolt, you had to hammer it really hard for very long to do that. Should have used a torch, air gun and chisel. Also, is the video 1 hr long, or 2? You can't seem to make up your mind, and it is a 40 mins video. If you already know this stuff, why are you watching it? Seriously, you need to find a hobby, apparently. Also, I would never tell a novice (you know, the people watching this video) to apply a torch to somewhere where a rubber bushing is. That is a bad example. An experienced mechanic will know how to do that, but I will NEVER show someone that in a video. Fire hazard, dude. That is why I used the torch on the knuckle, but not the trailing arm itself. REMEMBER WHO IS WATCHING THIS. I do not expect esteemed mechanics such are yourself, who already know the job apparently, to watch this. Speaking of, since you do not know WBody cars, unlike stablizer links, struts, or even trailing arms on other cars, the rear trailing arms on WBody cars do not carry the weight of the car when hanging. You do not need to lift the suspension when removing he trailing arm. Dont believe me? This is directly from the service manual for wbody cars from GM 1. Raise and support the vehicle. 2. Remove the bolt (6) and nut (2) from the trailing arm (3) and the knuckle (8). 3. Remove the nut (4) and bolt (7) from the trailing arm (3) and the trailing arm bracket. 4. Remove the trailing arm (3) from the vehicle. Even the diagrams specifically show the car lifted with the suspension hanging. Get a clue! I hope my extra long message has wasted as much of your time as my video did. Go back to whatever shop you work at and get your work done. Stay off KZfaq, you are not very good at it.

@@NexusAuto Haha just a little heat does wonders not 🔥 just to break a bolt you can replace rubber bushing just to make a job s little easier I had to heat a bolt to remove a harmonic balancer once and then hit it with air impact wrench it came off like butter!

@@fashionstreet1 agree with you 💯! That little mag torch of mine has gotten me out of more scraps than any of my vids will show. But I've also seen quite a few 'backyard mechanics' (and even an experienced one a few years ago) apply too much heat and actually catch a bushing on fire! No lie. So there is a few things I just won't show on the channel, as some people may try it and not know how to heat around a bushing without igniting it, and some of them burn quick, especially if viewers have been applying various lubricants beforehand. Anyhow, I agree with the torch, which I do on my regular work but not on vids for reasons above, the lubricating (no idea why I didn't do it in this video... normally I presoak with wd40 or pb blaster) and with hammering the bolt, but I took a calculated risk based on bolt design. The rest of the stuff, meh, don't affect me. The videos has helped thousands of people and that's what matters to me.

@@NexusAuto Baqash a real life Chip Diamond lol

Mine was so corroded and rusty I persprayed a few times the day before , then spray spray spray the day of. Ya he was going about that bolt a bit of handed. I used a solid bar , put it against the bolt then hit the bar instead , the bar also makes it easier as it sticks out past the break rotor. I wouldnt hes a bad mechanic , just needed to think the process through a bit more , but hey , what ever gets the damn thing off. His video does help.