Thanks, glad the videos were a help to you . 🤘🏽

You’re welcome and thank you . Glad I was able to help.

Thank you sir. Happy that I was able to help you get back together. That’s awesome to hear ! 🤘🏽🤘🏽

Thank you and you’re welcome. Happy to hear that these videos helped you out and gave you the understanding of it . Thanks again and good luck on your project. 🤘🏽🤘🏽

Thanks . I’m glad to hear that you’re using the videos as a “work along sheet” . Wishing you the best and continued success with your project. 👍🏽

Thank you and your welcome. I’m glad you appreciate it . Good luck with your project. 👍🏽

You are welcome and thank you for watching. I’m glad that they are a help to you . Great luck on you project . 👍🏽 Thanks again.

That honestly is your best bet. You also hit it on the nose , with the ground wires being messed up. The only way for an electrical system to work properly is to have proper grounding. So , for you to continue on with the rest of the system using new stuff and new grounds is the best way to go . 👍🏽

You’re welcome and thank you as well . 👍🏽

Thank you. 👍🏽

Sorry it took me a while to respond. I’ve been away for work . No I don’t have a video for a manual transmission, but all the wires are the same. The only difference is the neutral safety switch. The wires are the same , the switch is just different.

Chris Revuelta You’re welcome and thank you . As far as your back up light issue ... sounds like a bad grounding issue. I would get new ground wires and make sure that the surface that you are grounding to is down to bare metal. Now for the hazards, well maybe the contacts are wore or corroded. You would have to take the steering wheel off for this , but cleaning up the contacts with some 120 grit sand paper may help. You also could have a simple issue as to where if the turn signal switch isn’t dead center in the resting position , that could cause that sort of problem. So try making sure that the turn signal lever is completely centered then try the hazards. If they work then you need a new turn signal component that are in the wheel. Please keep in mind that I’m not a professional on this . I’m just offering my best thought on what it may be. Thanks again.

i dont mean to be so off topic but does anyone know of a way to get back into an Instagram account?? I somehow forgot the password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me.

@Declan Thaddeus instablaster ;)

@Juelz Angel i really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and I'm in the hacking process now. Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

@Juelz Angel it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy:D Thanks so much you saved my account!

I would check my grounding spots. In my experience , there’s one of two things that could be going on. The first thing may be that the battery isn’t fully charged. The second and most common issue is that you need to clean off all of the spots where the ground wires attach to the chassis. While your cleaning up the ground wire spots , check the ground straps and wires to be sure that they are in good condition. Hope this helps . Oh and thanks by the way for the compliment. 🤘🏽🤘🏽

Ok thank you andyour welcome

I will let you know if that works

Thank you , glad the video helped. The problem you’re having could be a few things . One it could be the wire is chafed. Could be that the bed to chassis ground needs replacing or the surfaces cleaned , or could be a non flashing bulb.

@@PatinaCode thanks my fiend. I'll check all that out.

Yes , that thick red wire is power to the fuse box. It starts from the battery when then goes to a small junction box where it mates to a fusible link then continues to power the fuse box. On the inside of the truck that wire also gets tagged into to power the ignition switch as well .

@@PatinaCode if it is unhooked from everything should it still have constant 12 volts because mine does wondering if I had something back feeding it I’m not sure

@@beeasy4360 Yeah if it’s unhooked, it should not have any power.

That would be the external voltage regulator. It’s tied into the alternator. If you have the factory alternator, that is required to control the voltage output from the regular. If you go to a one wire alternator , then that box is no longer needed.

Oh , I’m sorry , I believe you were talking about the black square that’s on the passenger fender. Ok so the wire from the positive side of the battery goes there , then your main power wire that gives power to the fuse box additionally connects there with a fusible link inline . The fusible link is important here to stop a power surge from making it to your fuse box and frying it.

Thanks for replyng...I'm having issues with my Alternator..just replaced the voltage regulator And I'm getting 12 v on red and 12v on brown...but i'm getting 1.6 on the white one..got any ideas as to why??

and when I check for voltage on Alt I will not get no volts..0.00

Sorry, I’m not familiar with the ls wiring configuration. I’ve never done any ls stuff. That’s the next thing I’m going to learn about because I too have a c-10 that I’d like to put an ls in.

sergio hidrogo Honestly l do not know. I’ve never done a 73. I will say this , though. GM really did not change much in those years . Here’s a suggestion. If you can match up and trace the wires to where they are going on your 73 you could then use what I’m saying in the videos to cross reference. In later years trucks with power windows and locks there may be a little difference with the way things are ran, but from 72 to 73 things should be pretty much the same. I can tell you this . I have a 1966 Biscayne and the wiring is nearly the same and that’s a car, that’s 6 years older than the 72. Sorry I can’t be much more help than that . I’ve just never done a 73.

Lee Ellison No it was the fast idle for the carburetor.

RUBEN FILIPPUS My advice is to get a good 1 wire alternator. The connection for those are simple. One wire goes to the positive side of the battery and then you ground the alternator to a near by bracket and then you’re all done.

@@PatinaCode where can I connect the one wire please?coz I have two wires behind the alternator.one is having round terminal that is having permanent power and one is having male terminal.thanks again fror reply

martytime march What year is the truck ? Here’s a few things to look for when a vehicle just won’t start. Once you have a fresh battery in this is what I would check 1... Good ground 2... Fuses in the fuse box 3... The fusible link. 4...Bad Starter solenoid 5...Hei or coil wire connection 6...Ignition switch wires 7... the wire that goes to the starter solenoid 8... the neutral safety switch could be bad . Since there was a breathalyzer device attached to the vehicle to prevent it from starting , they had to splice it into most likely the starter solenoid wire, which basically acts like a neutral safety switch. Once it was disconnected they could have left wires unwrapped that are now touching and creating a short. I’m not a professional or familiar with what they would do to hook up one of those devices, but the list of things I said to check will help in finding the cause of it not starting. Let me know if there’s anything else.

@@PatinaCode thanks man the truck is a 68 c10 I did notice that the ground coming out of the battery that runs to the frame was cut at the terminal not sure how long ago that happened. I've checked the fuses. Checked the ignition switch wires. Wire that goes to solenoid is connected, aside from that weird yellow wire I mentioned. Don't think I have a neutral safety switch. I did hear clicking before the whole thing went dead so perhaps the starter is bad? I'm not getting any power so I know the battery is dead

martytime march Yeah clicking is the starter solenoid , not enough juice to engage it. If the battery is fresh and still clicking then it’s the solenoid it’s self. Is the yellow wire thin ? If it’s a thin then that wire is for the coil operation.

@@PatinaCode yeah it's a thin wire. So if i get a battery in and hear clicking i just need to replace the solenoid, not the entire starter right? Also, the yellow wire needs to be connected to the coil, is what you're saying so somehow it just ended up by the starter haphazardly I take it

martytime march Yes . The wire goes on the coil and yes just replace the Solenoid. Check the price on a new or refurbished starter. Sometimes the brushes in a starter will belt and not operate properly. If the truck had aftermarket headers that were slung close to the starter I would replace the whole damn thing. But if it fires up with a fresh battery, keep on riding.

You are right . Yeah , they had coils and alternators were externally regulated.

@@PatinaCode HEI has a coil, but it does not have mechanically operated and adjustable contacts, aka 'points' HEI uses solid state electronic module⚡ I'm sure you know these things, , , I'm not sure if I am giving the explanation for myself, or others, who may want to know...lol😁☕

@@invisibilianone6288 Yeah , I know all of that , but don’t mind you elaborating. It may be of use for someone who doesn’t know . That’s why all of my videos are up here . I made them in hopes that people could use them as a tool. I’m always open and welcoming to positive contributions and conversation. By the way thanks for checking out the video. 👍🏽

@@PatinaCode thank YOU , for putting time and effort into your videos. You also treat others with respect😎 I'm pretty sure we're on the same wave 🎯 If life allows the opportunity, would be cool to meet and even work on projects.😎 Fire season is nearly here,,, I will be on duty, day in, day out...til fall rains come again

@@invisibilianone6288 You’re welcome and thank you . Yeah that would be cool to work on something. I’m here in Missouri. I’ll tell you what we could do , if you’re interested we could do a podcast. Not only do you have stories about hot rods , you have stories about fire fighting. We wouldn’t have to travel for the podcast, that could be done over the phone . Let me know what you think.