Right on ! 🤘🏽🤘🏽 glad that it is helpful to you.

Glad that I was able to help. Thanks for reaching out . I hope your project goes smoothly. Thanks again , and thanks for checking out the videos. 👍🏽

Thank you and you’re welcome. I appreciate you letting me know . I’m glad the videos were a help to you. 👍🏽

You’re welcome and thank you. Glad I was able to help. 👍🏽

@seanoneil2110 Thank you fir the compliment and fir checking out the videos. I’m glad that they are a help to you. Thanks again and you are welcome. Yes , I do know what you meant about not over explaining. 👍🏽

Thank you . These videos were made for people like you , who are really trying to understand the wiring system in these trucks . Thanks again. 👍🏽

Your welcome and thank you . Happy the videos helped you. 👍🏽

I’m glad to hear that these videos helped you . I’m sorry I missed a few things.

Thank you . And yes , we need to keep some of old ways alive .

Thank you . I’m glad that this was able to help you . 👍🏽

First off congratulations on your build, and thank you for the compliment. 👍🏽

Thank you and you’re welcome. 👍🏽

You’re welcome and thank you. The rest of the videos in this series will explain the rest of the system.

Thank you .🤘🏽🤘🏽

Good luck to you. 👍🏽

hugh mallany Thanks . I’m glad that the video were a help to you. Also it’s nice to hear. Thank you for that. Good luck with the rest of your project. 🤙🏽

Thank you for the kind words. I’m glad you appreciate it . Great luck with your project. 🤘🏽🤘🏽

You’re welcome and thank you . Glad that it helped you. 🤘🏽

Thank you . I’m glad to hear that they were a help to you . 👍🏽

bghank Hernandez Thank you . I’m glad that I was able to help. Thanks again.🤙🏽

kevin salter You’re welcome, glad that they were of help to you.

Thank you ! 👍🏽

Thank you. Glad to hear the video was a help. 👍🏽

You’re welcome and thank you . I’m glad that it helped. 🤘🏽

Ivan Rdz Glad the videos helped you . Thanks 🤘🏽

Patina Code im having a problem with the headlights they used to work but now they wont turn on but turn signals do work i tought i fixed it but they wont work no more

Ivan Rdz You may have a bad ground. Listen , run a good ground wire from each side of your radiator core support to the frame . Make sure that there is no paint under the connecting points of the ground . The radiator core support is where your headlights are , the core support is mounted in rubber. I always run a ground from each side of the core support to the frame . Make sure that there isn’t any rust under the headlight ground wire as well. Hope this helps.

Patina Code i was working on it earlier and yea i did notice theres rust on that ground wire but also i have a feeling that the voltage regulator might be out cus lights were dimmed before going out and i put on new headlights

Ivan Rdz That’s a good call , the regulator could be bad . That’s an easy replacement and not that expensive as well. A fresh regulator and cleaned up grounding points just may have you fixed up. While you’re at it make sure your battery is strong.

Thank you . 👍🏽

@@PatinaCode I used to work on all types of old trucks and cars, as well as new ones. These days I'm just an old dumb💩, working as a watchman out in woods. The 69 GMC K2500 I have, has had me for nearly 28yrs. It needs a better cab and front sheet metal, but it's still holding together...so far😁 Used to have 8, 67 to 72 2wd and 4wd trucks, 17 47 to 55 1st series Chevy and GMC trucks and panel trucks, as well as 7 Datsun Z cars,,,72 to 76 model years. Just me, my old faithful GMC and my 90lb RottnLab security system😁

@@invisibilianone6288 I’m glad to hear that you kept at least one of the old trucks and that it’s still serving you well .

Right on ! Glad the video was a help to you . 👍🏽

🤘🏽🤘🏽 glad to hear that I was a help to you .

You’re welcome and thank you.

luckybobj Right on❕ Glad I was able to help. 🤘🏽

Frank Jaramillo It sound to me that someone has added something to your truck. Without seeing what you’re describing to me it’s hard to say. Trace the wires to see where they go. If you want , and if you have Instagram go to my page patina_code and direct message me a picture . If it’s still day time where you’re at we could even do a video chat so you can show me the wires. Just a suggestion.

That’s a great question ! Unfortunately I do not know the answer to it. I’ve always discarded the external system in favor of the internally regulated charging system. I’m sorry that I can’t help you on this one. I will do some research. I have a schematic for my 1966 Biscayne and it has the external system. When I get home tonight, I’ll look at it and see if it shows where the light tags in .

Thanks, and thanks fir watching. 🤘🏽🤘🏽

Thank you , I’m glad you enjoyed the videos. I’m not familiar with the wiring schematic on the 1979 year model truck . Sorry I can’t be a help to you for that .

You have a short some where . Could be a wire that is broken or could be a wire that is bare and creating a direct short . You’re going to have to find that wire . I know that’s not what you want to hear , but that’s the honest answer. One piece of advice. Never use a fuse bigger than what is called for . If a circuit calls for a 10 amp fuse then that’s what you use . If you put a larger amperage fuse in its place , not only could it create more problems but you also can damage the piece of equipment that is on that circuit. Each component requires a certain amperage to function, any more than that will damage the component, and possibly cause fire. Putting a higher amperage fuse in place is not allowing the circuit to “ trip” or blow the fuse . When the circuit can’t blow the fuse , the power continues to build until the fuse blows . Not scolding, just giving you my knowledge. First thing I would do is disconnect the wire from the radio leading to the fuse box , put the proper amp fuses back in and then start the truck and see if the fuse is blown that keeps blowing. If not then I would replace the wire from the radio with new and make sure that you have a good clean ground wire and ground wire connection for the radio. Then start the truck again and see if the problem resurfaces. If so then there is something wrong with the radio circuit.

Thank you for wanting the video. I’m glad to hear that it was a help to you. Unfortunately, I can not speak on how to go about wiring up a stand alone system. I have no experience with an ls swap.

Simple Real Estate Thank you . To answer your question, about the switch. They’re fairly reliable, but corrosion and worn contacts begin to create issues after 50 years. Good luck with your truck and congratulations. 👍🏽

Sorry it took me so long to respond. Had to rearrange some thing to fit my newborn into the schedule of life. To answer your question, no the purple wires don’t have anything to do with the reverse lights. They are triggered on when the shift select is moved into the reverse position. Yes there could be an issue inside the fuse box . There should be a light and dark green set of wires that power the reverse lights that plugs into the neutral safety switch. The dark green wire is the power supply and the light green is for the lights.

@@PatinaCode I’ll have a look for a break in the green wires in the fuse panel. Thank you dude!

You may want to check the ground contact areas on the truck. Check to be sure that the area under the ground straps are clean , since you’ve put in new equipment and know that it’s not the issue. Faulty grounding points are notorious for causing electronic issues. You may want to even install a ground wire on the right side of the truck from the radiator core to the chassis. Being it that the core support is mounted in rubber. Clean off a spot on the core support and chassis and install a ground wire. I always run a ground on either side of the core support to the chassis, one on each side of the cab to the chassis and one on each side of the bed to the chassis. Check to be sure that the ground that runs between the cab to motor is in good shape as well.

Yeah already got ground wires from both front turn signals into the radiator core support. Unfortunately when I got the truck the wiring has been spliced, hacked, and Mickey moused up the wazoo. And I'm not confident enough to start pulling wires I can't trace to source or output especially since it's my daily driver. But I'll definitely double check all grounds I can find. (Undercarriage is covered in old grease and oil) so everything is basically black haha. Thanks for the input.

Steven Terrell Sorry it took me so long to reply. This is what I do know about led lights... I do know that they have less of an amp draw than the standard lights. With that said you can still use the regular fuses that you have in the truck as long as they are the correct size amperage for that particular fuse location. Never over fuse . If the slot fuse calls for a 10 amp fuse DONT put a 15 amp in its place. Now as far as your light not flashing when the head lights are on goes, that could be that you need to check the headlight ground on both sides of the truck. Make sure that the surface the grounds are attached to is clean. Secondly you may have an issue with the signal switch it’s self. It works off of contact . So there is a chance that the switch isn’t making contact when the lever is in the signaling position. Hopefully that helps out a little . Keep me posted on what’s going on.

Marquis Lancaster My thought would be that the little brass contacts that pinch the light bulb may be oxidized. Or maybe even slightly loose therefore not making complete contact. Clean the contacts with a bit of 120 grit sand paper then reinstall the new bulb . You can take a fine pick and pry on the little brass contacts just a bit to make them a tighter fit for the bulb. If that doesn’t work then go back through this video to see which wire is for that signal then test it with a test light to see if that wire is receiving power. Hope this helps.

Thank you kindly Dennis and really appreciate your timely response. You are truly a GOD send!!!!!!!

Yes the other videos explain what the wire color and what function they perform.

I’m not too sure that I can . I’m not familiar with any of the aftermarket fuse boxes . I’ve never worked with one . I used to take apart a lot of c-10 trucks and keep the fuse boxes to use on projects , that’s how come I’m so familiar with that . What steering column are you using ? If it’s an aftermarket one and you don’t have the layout for the wire bundle , the manufacturer should have one up on their website , detailing which color wire performs what function and the same goes for your aftermarket fuse box . I feel bad that I don’t have a real solution to your problem , but to be honest I just don’t know .

RUBEN FILIPPUS If you are still using the factory alternator and external regulator , you may just have the external alternator regulator going bad. Those can be bought at the auto parts stores. If you want to ditch the old style set up all together you can get a 1 wire alternator. The one wire goes from the alternator to the positive side of the battery and then a ground wire . I use the Tuff Stuff one wire alternator. Never have had an issue with those. They are a little over 100 dollars , the price goes up as the amperage output goes up.

@@PatinaCode ok thanks for your reply I think I should go for one wire alternator

If you haven’t already done this . Clean off a spot on the frame and the left side under the bed and put a ground strap or wire in . On all the vehicles that I build I ground each side of the bed , radiator core support and cab to the chassis. One other thing may be that you need to start the truck and let it run for a bit to get the current flowing. One other thing is make sure that there is no rust between where the light bulb housing is screwed into the bed side.

@@PatinaCode Thanks I did try to ground direct to the battery but I will try to the frame to be throrogh. I feel like it might be the turn signal switch in the steering wheel bc when I put the blinker right it functions correctly but when I put it down for left it flashes the blinker and when I set it back to the middle position the left brake light works momentarily but fades away until I set the left blinker again then it will fade out after a few seconds again when I turn the left blinker off.

@@DEADIKATED Yeah , the contacts in the blinker switch. The plastic underneath the horn button could have oxidation on them . Take some 220 grit sand paper and clean the contacts off . That may do the trick.

Ok Thx will do!

Sound like a grounding issue. Check all of the ground straps on the truck . Make sure that the surface underneath is clean . Also check the ground wire that is under the dash . There is on that is connected to the gauge cluster that attached to the under side of the dash on the driver’s side. If you have time, it’s a good idea to add some extra ground wires to the other side of the truck . Bedside to frame , cab to frame and one for the radiator support to the frame. Most electrical issues are due to corrosion at the grounding points. The corrosion creates resistance that won’t allow the electricity to flow very well to your components.

Mike Yerke If you’re wanting to make the lighter port operational, you can run a 12 gauge wire from the lighter to one of the open accessory spades in the fuse box. Crimp you’re wire to a wire female spade connector and then slide that female spade into the fuse box. You can run one of those inline fuse between the lighter and fuse box. 20 amp will be sufficient. Hope this helps . Oh , you may want to go on LMC truck web site and see if they have the original type wire set up with the correct ends on it .

Patina Code Thank you so much. I appreciate your time to help me with that problem. Makes perfect sense!

Patina Code P.S. I’m just about to complete my restoration on my ‘68 K20. I’d love for you to check it out on my channel! I always appreciate comments and advice, goodness knows I need it. Haha! 🔧

Mike Yerke Glad I was able to help and yeah I’ll come check out your build . 👍🏽

Steven Terrell Sorry , not in Georgia. I’m in Missouri. What’s the issue? Maybe I can help find a solution.

If the tail lights are staying on with the vehicle off , that could mean that you have a bad light switch , or a bad ground. The light switch has constant power going to it . If the ground is poor then that may be the issue. Also check the ground for the tail lights, which may be in the truck, to see what condition it is in . Also be sure to clean the metal under the ground wires.

Sorry to hear that. Were there any spliced wires ? Some times people will splice into the ignition wires to draw electrical current to other components, and the component that has been connected is unfused and drawing too much amperage. That overload of amperage creates heat , then burns the wire. Another issue is over size fuses. If a spot in the fuse box says 10 amps , then 10 amps it is . So putting a 20 amp fuse in a 10 amp fuse spot will cause the same issue. Fuses are there to protect form circuit overload . If a fuse pops then you can’t just put a bigger fuse in its place so that it won’t pop, because that creates an overload. If a fuse pops , either the component that’s drawing the amps isn’t grounded properly, or the component is defective. Hope this helps. You’re going to have to check your wires , fuses, grounds and any external components that are wired in.