You’re welcome , and thank you for the kind words . Happy to hear that the video helped you . 👍🏽

Yes he did done one awesome job very good job. I'm glad he posted this on 67-72 Chevy Trucks

I would love to find one of these original harness’s for my 71’, all i can find is aftermarket ones

Thank you for the compliment. I’m glad the video was useful to you. Thanks again!👍🏽

Thank you . I am glad that the video is a help to you . Good luck with your project.

my Lack of Focus or MLFranklin Thank you . I’m glad that it was a help to you . 👍🏽

Helped me out buddy ,but i don't know wher to start rewiring it the correct way

You’re welcome and thanks for the kind words. Happy to hear that the videos helped you .

That’s exactly how I learned what was what with the C-10 . Usually I had to buy two trucks to make one. 😀

You are welcome and thank you for watching. Glad that I was a help. 👍🏽

You’re welcome and thank you. 👍🏽

Thank you and you’re welcome. I’m glad the video was helpful to you . 👍🏽

Glad that this helped you . 👍🏽

Thank you sir . 👍🏽 I appreciate that .

You’re welcome. Glad I was able to help you out . Thanks for checking out the video .

Awesome ! I’m glad that it was a help to you. 👍🏽

You’re welcome and thanks for the support. I happy to hear that these videos were a help to you .

I’d say that you have a bad ground. Check the ground wire for the headlights. Where the ground is attached to the radiator core support, there could be some rust between the grounding surface. The core support is mounted in rubber so the ground needs a good clean surface to be attached to.

Thanks a lot bro I’ll check this out tomorrow and get back to you. Thanks for quick response

Just a follow up I ran new ground wires, I put a wire wheel on a grinder and shaved to bare metal. I was able to get the lights to work but the passenger side brake light is very low but at least it illuminates a little bit now when headlights are on. Thanks for the suggestion got more work to do

@@bigbawsz2054 Now you may want to go through and clean up all of the ground straps or make new ones . There’s the cab to frame ground strap , bed to frame ground strap , cab to engine ground and engine to frame ground strap. It also wouldn’t hurt to be sure that your battery terminals are clean as well and that there is no corrosion. Glad I was able to help out.

@@PatinaCode I’ll check that out today thanks bro. I ended up buying a new battery as mine was really corroded. Problem still persists although till check out the straps your talking about. Thanks again!

You’re welcome. Happy to hear that . 👍🏽

You’re welcome and thank you . 🤘🏽🤘🏽

@@PatinaCode would you help me get my turn signals to work I did a Ls swap in a 69 camaro and have cut the fuse box out but I have the wires from the steering column. I can't get them to blink and put new flashers in but they show on the dash but don't blink.

@@7115sugarhill Are you using a new fuse box ? If you are using an aftermarket fuse box , then you are going to need to know which wires from the new fuse box are those for the signals . If you already have that done , then you may have to get a new turn signal switch that goes inside of the steering wheel. Sometimes the contacts get corroded and wont transmit the the energy to make the signal work. you could also try cleaning those contacts with some 800 grit sandpaper , before just going out and buying a new turn signal switch. The one final thing to do is to make sure that you have real good grounding points for your entire system. poor grounds and bad fuses are the majority of all electrical issues.

Steve McClaran I’m glad that it was a help to you . 👍🏽

Alton Neese You’re re Welcome , and thank you. 🤘🏽

That would plug in to the spade terminal above the 25 amp fuse for the heat / air conditioning that’s on the fuse box .

Ascension Froisland Glad that the video was a help to you.

I’m glad that the videos have helped you and thank you for watching them. So the two green wires that go to the neutral safety switch are coming directly from the fuse panel. They are tied in series with the rear lights. The wires for rear lights are brown , yellow, green and light green and they pass through the floor , then run to the rear of the truck.

@PatinaCode ok, thank you. I have 2 thick green and dark green wires that come out of the wiring harness that are together that go across the top to the passenger side and are on a wire straped to the engine going down to the starter and are just hanging there not sure where they go the dark green has power when key is in on position

Is there a way to send a pic on here

I’ve never had one that was 180 , but that’s not to say that yours wasn’t. I’ve ran into a few odd things before when dealing with those trucks . I’m glad that the videos have helped you and I’m happy to hear that you’re making progress. 👍🏽

@@PatinaCode Charging up my battery for round 2, I'll let you know how it goes!

Honestly I do not know. I have never worked with a 1974. I would venture to say that if it’s not the exact same , it is close . GM didn’t change colors of the wires for a very long time.

I wish you well on your project. If you’re wanting to know the fuse amperage location for each fuse you can look up fuse location chart for 1967- 1972 Chevy truck on google and images will come up showing what amp and location each fuse go in .

@@PatinaCode thanks bro, I like how you take time to explain things bro. Thank you for you're time.

@@gmangarcia2354 You’re welcome. And thank you for being apart of Patina Code . 🤘🏽🤘🏽

All of my trucks have blowers, because yes that is important for navigation of the road on a rainy day . When my trucks are built I put new heater systems in . What happens is the brown wire from the fuse panel that controls the on off of the heater in a 1967 to 1972 Chevy c-10 is used to connect to the power wire of the new blower motor. The orange and blue wires from the blower motor on the c-10 is what controls the blower motor fan speed . They are connected to the three prong switch that is in the heater box . The brown wire comes from the fuse panel and connects there as well. The brown wire is what supplies the power for the switch to work.

@@PatinaCode I kept blowing fuses when I turned my fan on in my 72 Chevy C10 Custom with factory a/c . Now it blows the main fuse by the battery. I thought the fan relay switch is located above the fuse box along side the horn relay ? Not positive about it.?

I only have a black wire at my blower and a ground wire then the wires branch over to the compressor. I started blowing fuses at the fuse block now its blowing the fuse by the battery ( once a inline fuse I converted to a 30 Amp fuse that's changeable. I'm lost I either have a bad fan motor or relay switch shorted out . It's a factory air 72 c10 . Any help appreciated.

@@patroll330 I was wondering why you kept mentioning a relay. Now I understand that you have an AC truck. I am sorry to say that I’ve never had an AC equipped truck . I can say this . If fuses keep blowing then you have a short in the wiring system . The fuses are there to protect the entire system. The best advice that I can offer is that you may have to replace the wires that control the heat and AC system. One could have a break in it , causing the short circuit.

@@PatinaCode Generally I would think a bad motor or relay . A break in the wire usually don't blow fuses unless it's a hot wire grouding to metal.

BossHoggJDK K Ok I’m not sure what part you’re talking about either because I can’t see it . If you like I could send you my email and you could send the picture to me there and then I could look at it and maybe tell you what it is . As far as your truck not getting spark it could be a few different things . Here’s some things to check. 1 make sure that the battery has a good charge and has a clean ground. 2 check that the wire to the coil is in good condition. 3 Be positive that the coil is if fact a good coil. 4 make sure that the plug wires are in the correct firing order. If the distributor has been pulled make sure that it’s set to fire on the number 1 cylinder. 5 make sure that your fusible link is properly connected and the wires are in good condition.

thanks man I sent that message a little early I think. It has the same style black clip with the numbers on either side so I thought a printed circuit was it. Then I watched the rest of your video and saw the part wasnt the same. yeah I would be stoked on your email. I send it to you right away. I really appreciate it. I did go through the list you just sent me and I did everything except check the coil which is what I was trying to do and check that other part just to eliminate a few more things.

BossHoggJDK K noveltyclassicdesign@icloud.com

@@PatinaCode thanks man. I do appreciate it. my phone wouldn't connect with that link you sent me but it in front of my friends house and im sure his phone will. im going to buy a coil right now because I also have a 65 c10 that isnt getting spark either. Im broke as shit but at least I got my car and trucks even if they do need a bunch of work. Im stoked I found your channel. Only seen a few will watch more but you work on and do the shit I like and would like to do. once again killer how you layed everything out and explained it. Straight up I hate electrical. I have watched so many videos because like I was saying it's the only thing that consistently stumps me and I know these arnt the hardest electrical systems either. which is something that pisses me off on top of it. watching your video though. I think I could for sure run a full 67-72 gm stock wiring harness which I thought I would never try. Now I know what everything is called and can figure out where its run to. ill keep you posted hopefully soon than later. Thanks again for the help.

BossHoggJDK K you’re welcome . My main goal is to help. I’m not always right and if I’m wrong I own up to it . I’m running that harness in a 56 right now . If you have Instagram come to my channel there. It’s @patina_code . I’m on there every day and you could direct message me pictures and stuff there . If you have Instagram come check out the page. Message me if you do so I know it you.

No I didn’t. I believe it to be the fast idle solenoid hook up . That’s the only thing that I can think of it to be .

I would say that they are pretty close , but how close I’m not sure . I’ve never worked with a wiring harness for a 1979 , so I’m not familiar with that year truck . Here’s a suggestion though. Use the video to match and trace wires for your truck . GM didn’t change much until the later on years. As far as color codes for the wires the 72 and 79 should pretty close.

@@PatinaCode I Appreciate you thank you

@@mandosgarage You’re welcome. Sorry I couldn’t have been more help.

@@PatinaCode would you happen to know where the tan wire coming out of bulkhead goad wiring diagram says brake press wrng switch but I can’t find how

@@mandosgarage On the 1967 - 1972 Chevy and GMC the tan wire for the bake warning light starts on the brake portioning valve then goes to the bulkhead connector. On the inside of the truck the wire then goes to the printed circuit connector that plugs into the back of the dash cluster.