THANK YOU for this. If only I had seen it before hour 2 of beating on and cursing at a late '90s Honda distributor in my back yard.

Tried removing the pin for about half an hour, then decided to get this tool, why struggle any longer.

thanks this tool mde it a lot easiewr, still hard. The tool smells of heavy metals tho be careful

does the pin coming with the tool fit to the distributor pin hole or you need something more thin?

Worked! Did it just now with that tool. I can confirm that! Thank you Rob!!!!!

Gracias por tu información

that is great to hear, we get more motivated to do these videos when we know people get help and use them, otherwise it gets boring, so thanks for watching and especially thanks for commenting!!

thanks for the comment and thanks for watching

Fish Dodd awesome thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!!

Ernest Hin thanks you and thanks for watching, also do it sooner rather then later, eventually the oil can damage the ignitor inside the distributor

Yes always clearly identifying parts before removal can save lots of headaches, the stupid headaches that turn a 39 minutes job into a 2 hour jon

Like my oil pan, now on onto transmission issues...

Hahahaha, I broke off 1 cap bolt too. Is yours also the one near the front on the bottom (about 5 oclock)?

Hahahaha, I think our cars are twins. My oil pan is corroded to heck. The transmission lags between 1-2 gears up and downshifting.

+Gene Friedman precisely in that location! Getting out the broken bit is gonna be a real b**** so I'm going to ignore it for the time being. Yeah, I get the lag between one and two also, think the trans is just showing it's age or the clutch packs are going. Honestly don't want to think about that at the moment. The check engine light came on for a torque converter issue about the same time I typed up my initial comment, but went off a few weeks ago, wtf?, and passed emissions. I will say this if you plan on replacing the pan, it is a bit of a hassle as you have to remove the portion of exhaust connecting to the headers and midpipe (me and my mechanic friend thought we could maneuver the pan around the exhaust without having to remove it, WRONG!). The pan has a windage tray which is strange considering the CL is not a performance car. This will involve an impact gun as those bolts in the exhaust are surely rusted by now and not easily accessible. When putting on the new pan, I used a dorman, get a better quality gasket (think this one was a Fel Pro), than what comes in the box, and scrape off all of the excess RTV. We didn't do this because it was about 2 in the morning when we placed it back on. It was either a low quality gasket or excess RTV that caused a leak in the pan again and is mildly inconvenient. My mechanic friend is competent and made sure all the oil pan bolts were torqued to spec. I am currently in the process of replacing one (or possible both depending if I take the aftermarket route) upper ball joints. So if yo like I can provide you info of what I got and tell you how it improved the ride quality, WHICH MY CAR NEEDS!!! All in all I think the CL is a good car, I haven't taken care of it properly and it has held up well with minimal issues. Just wish it wasn't grandma's beige. I bought mine after crashing my first car and decided to go with it because it was a good deal and ran well. What's the mileage on yours, I'm at 153k and change. If the trans goes I'm either going to do a manual conversion or get a car I really want depending on my financial situation at the time. A manual Cl would be super fun! Hope my blabbering has been of some use to you and if you have other questions about your vehicle I'd be happy to help diagnose. Just keep in mind I AM NOT A MECHANIC nor will I claim to be so my knowledge will be based off of things I've experience in my car and what fixed it.

fa es paz thanks so much for the comment and thanks for watching!!!

de nada

We used Brake Cleaner spray which is alcohol based, Any alcohol based automotive cleaner spray as the alcohol evaporates.

Tung Nguyen thank you for watching!!

The kit is enough. The second o-ring is just the kit without the two seals.

Joshua Thanks, this tutorial is great by the way!

Nathan Brown ehh distributor replacement is probably the best option of the shaft is damaged or broken, luckily they are not too expensive anymore, look at the base of your distributor to determine which distributor is in your model

Hopefully you got this fixed, but I would think you would remove the distributor and rotate the shaft 180 degrees, then reinstall.

Ignition timing is not adjustable on this car. If the ignition timing was incorrect, you would need to replace the PCM

@@brianodom797 the distributor has two bolt holes holding it to the head. If one of the holes is oblong then it is adjustable for base timing. Procedure for timing is with a timing light, and turning off the ignition advance if required. Some vehicles advance is not activated while in park and some are.

Ernest Hin this kit does include both size orings to fit the 2 different possible distributors in this particular engine, the distributor shaft thickness is different between the 2 possible distribs so this kits has both

Sarah Gilmore those pins can be a pain and is probably the worst part of this job, you need a good punch tool that fits just inside the hole, then you need something to support the shaft of the distributor because tapping it out with a hammer and punch is needed

Trying to get the pin out broke my father in laws punch tool (cheap ones he had) luckily he bought ones from Snap On I think and they got the job done.

yeah pretty much the same repair.

Yeah brother, 😁 Regards from Dominican Republic! 🖐🏼

Brake Cleaner. It is a residue-free degreaser that quickly evaporates. Very popular as a quick and easy parts cleaner.

Sarah Gilmore either brake cleaner or a carb cleaner, really just an alcohol based cleaner that evaporated quickly,

thank you for watching and commenting!!

Auto Parts Direct To You hi im a new subscriber. what did you use to spray clean the distributor?

Brake Clean. Its a good residue free chemical.

Joshua thanks for the quick reply. mine started leaking an this video proved to be very helpful. i will be fixing it soon as the part comes in. thx

is that what you ended up doing? it would cost the same for me to get a new distributor as it would for me to get tools, and parts so I'm thinking of just buying a whole new distributor.

Brake parts cleaner

Those Acuras had problems with ignition switch.. mine used to do that to me until they replaced it under warranty. There's threads on this Acurazine dot cohm

Yes here is a link to the part we installed: amzn.to/2xNMuHP

KALIMAN R yes the link is in the description, this kits is now at amazon and is available prime

You don't need to with 98-02 4 cylinder Accord's.

@@edisonvelasco8759 if one hole on that distributor is oblong, then it's adjustable for base timing, otherwise it wouldn't be oblong. I just can't say for certain if that one hole is or not though???

It's not adjustable. The timing is controlled by the PCM (Computer).

@@edisonvelasco8759 I've got the same engine in my accord and now I won't need to worry about the base timing... fantastic. Thanks for that info.

ok you may have a different problem happening. 2 things come to mind right off the top, the first is make sure the check engine light is not on and the engine and pcv system are working properly. If the engine has enough blow by, then it can create too much pressure in areas that should not have that much pressure and it can push the oil out. The PCV system is the same as too much crankcase pressure can cause the oil to be pushed out. The other possibility is you have a different leak like a valve cover and it looks like the distributor. The worst case scenario is the distributor shaft is just worn out and simply resealing it is not enough, replacement may be required. If you have trouble pinpointing the problem and no check engine light is on, it may be worth letting s hop inspect it for you and then you consider if you want to do the repair yourself or not, either way you dont want to go on very long with an oil leak.

Auto Parts Direct To You check engine isnt on im have multiple leaks . Im buying a new pcv valve and put yhem on when they arrive

Diego Flores yeah if multiple oil leaks, then you may have too much pressure in the engine, PCV is a good place to start, no check engine light so it shouldn’t be a clogged cat converter but if high mileage, then piston ring blow by is possible, you could try experimenting with some of the different thicker oil products out there, engine honey or Lucas oil makes additives to help a worn out engine

I have the same problem 200K miles. It was a bad PCV valve. Honda forgot/neglected to put the PCV valve replacement in the maintenance schedule so I never thought about it. It should be replaced every 60K.

@@gfriedman99 Haha, Kid, you get around :)

Thanks sir that’s a short n sweet great idea on how to steady the distributor. Did that way work with the HFT Chain Breaker?