I am about to replace my son's 2008 Subaru Legacy SW left hand wheel bearing. As an ex mechanic I can say without a doubt this is the most comprehensive video on how to do the job correctly and with the least amount of fuss. Like many others have commented this will save me heaps! Even to the smallest detail in telling you what spanner and or socket is required and each step in marked as a chapter, very simple to refer back to. Much appreciated 👍👍👍 EDIT : Just replaced my wheel bearing without having to take the tie rod off at 4:56, or the top camber strut or the abs sensor. Yes it makes the wheel bearing easier to get at but I found it not necessary.

WHY THE FUCK AREN'T ALL REPAIR VIDEOS ON YOU TUBE THIS GOOD??? SERIOUSLY.....WELL DONE MAN.

This is quite possibly the most confidence inspiring video I have seen about working on cars. You made it seem so effortless and straightforward.

Bravo! this should be the template for all you tube tutorials. No horrible music , guided tours, or psyco babble.. Straight forward comprehensive video. Thank you sir

Thank you brother for not playing loud music.

5 years later and still saving lives. This video made it a flawless process, other than 30min of me beating the piss out of my axle to dislodge it from the hub.

This was great, man. This saved me $350 in labor. Thank you so much for posting this and for including all the torque setting. So unbelievable helpful.

I just did this job, and as many others here have said it is completely possible to access the bearing bolts without disconnecting the knuckle or any other component. I just used a relatively thin-walled deep socket and pushed the axle back as far as it would go. Of course you can turn the wheel to get a better angle, but the bolts were not hard to get to. The old hub was so rusted on it took me 1/4 hour to beat loose with a sledge, but the bolts still came loose easily with a ratchet.

Man of many words 😜 Got me through the job, and brilliant to not have a KZfaqr in love with the sound of his own voice

This is one of the best videos I have seen for replacing a bad wheel bearing!! Thank you so much for taking the time to put together a great video...it was much a appreciated. Also, it was nice to see a mechanic at work vs a bunch of "hammer slammers" that like to put their videos out on KZfaq.

I'm glad you removed the steering knuckle, I'm replacing mine this weekend. You have the absolute best videos for repairs. Your videos make me glad that I own a Subaru!

Mine seriously started getting bad a couple days ago. This video was much needed.

This is the first place I found with an explanation about the purpose of the center hole and how to safely knock out the axle from the hub assembly. THANK YOU MR SUBARU!!!!! I can finally move forward on my cv rebooting project. 💕💋

Excellent production, each operation is abundantly clear, as professional as the guy performing the repair.

Well presented and silent. Perfect for the home repairer. Good notes when needed. Love the no bloody music. Will be back.

WORD. I just completed this job. The video is great.

I had a 02 OB that i replaced the bearing on. Press in bearings. It was a pain, took the spindle off and took it to a local shop to have them press them . I recently traded the OB for a 07 OB and im so thankful to see bolt on bearings, Ill be doing this repair soon, car has 123K it wouldnt hurt to replace them and the lower bushing. Thanks for the video, your channel rocks!

Hey man I love you videos I cant tell you how many times you've helped me with my old 2000 Impreza rs

First of all fantastic video. Why I am impressed: no commentary and quite frankly the video was done so well you really don't need it and the fact that you did all this on gravel on what seems to be the side of the road! I'm impressed. I'm going to tackle this soon on my 2011 Gen 4 Outback. I live in the country and my driveway looks identical to your conditions. Completely agree with OEM on this type of part. Nice work!

Great video. Very helpful. Looks virtually identical to the old Jeep Dana 30 until bearings I used to do (a lot). Nothing but talking from this guy!

thanks for the upload man, very informative and you saved me about a 150$. first time ever getting past the calipers and the whole deal only took me 2 hours

Re watched this over the last few weeks after putting off bearings for other fixes. had a humming sound figured it was not bearings; do to typical off floor running the wheels, checking for play at fixed positions. Replaced bad bushing control arms, felt better but still hummed. U joints and carrier bearing have too much play, replaced and went into reverse a lot more smooth but still hummed haha. Did the front bearings today and its gone; I assume eventually if ignored would have gotten louder and worse haha. always helpful content thanks

I would never have attempted that myself until I watched this brilliant video. Took me a while longer than 2 hours though, had some very stuck bolts which a 6 ft steel bar over the wrench fixed :) Cheers mate, you saved me a ton of cash.

I have watched about 6 of these videos trying to show the correct steps to do the bearing hub removal and refitting of a new hub. I have to say here that your video is the best, it is the most instructive and the clearest in method and the ease in which you under take the process of the job at hand. Are you a mechanic as you flowed through the process smoothly and without any talking at all. The sub titles were adequate and complemented your video nicely. Congratulations on an excellent video and I used YOUR video to do the job myself on my own Legacy. I loved the idea of removing the steering arm ball joint, none of the others mentioned this idea and using this idea I was able to complete the job even without removing the Upper camber bolt and its lower bolt. Easy peasy thanks very much. Love your selection of cordless tools as well made your job easier I bet.

Outstanding video. No time wasting chatter! Love it.

I'm a big fan of your channel. I just did on my 2005 OBXT without removing the tie rod and the strut. Took me only 45 min... Lucky me nothing was jammed :)

Thanks to your video, i was able to change the front wheel bearing hub assembly myself. Saved me tons of money and i learned quite alot by doing it myself. I did make a mistake though. I tightend the bolts for the hub to 80 NM instead of 65 NM. I hope that is not giong to bite me in the ***. Thanks for you effort.

Just installed new wheel bearings today on my 2005 Outback. This video made it super easy. Thank you so much!

Great instructions!! Just followed the video and did it by myself. Thanks for the video.

Many thanks !!!!!!!!! - specially for the torques during reassembly.

Going to be doing this on my 05 OBXT. Thank you for the detailed walkthrough!

Great work as usual. You make everything look like it's child play

Thank you for your valuable information it has been very helpful

great video. I always pop the lower ball joint stud instead of the strut bolts.

Wonderful! Really helpful!! Thank you.

On my 2005 Outback 3.0R I had to replace both rear wheel bearings. Bought it with 150k miles. At moderate speeds it sounded like a jet engine (above like 25-30 mph). At highway speeds we had to yell to have a conversation. I ordered 2 OEM Legacy/Outback hubs off Ebay for like 125 ea. I ended up getting the local mechanic to install it which was easier as they had a lift. The front is more complicated as the tie rods for the steering also are there whereas the rear only had the axles.

Very good viseo. Thank you !

Thanks for making the video 👍.

Just did this one myself. Great video. One quick tip I found; those brake mount bolts were particularly terrible and obnoxious. Bad angle, stuck real bad. Fortunately, they don’t need to come off, only the calipers do. There’s enough wiggle room inbetween the bracket for the hub, brake shield and rotor to clear the axle. Then it slides right out once those 4 support bolts are taken out. Reassembly is only slightly more annoying since you have to manually line up the brake shield and hub holes all at once with the rotor on. Not too bad though. .

kinda nice that the hub is all one unit rather than having to drive out races and repack bearings and all of that mess.

great video, thanks

I wouldn't have trusted jackstands on dirt ! But great video. Even though it had a shade tree mechanic feel to it, I can tell you know what you are doing. I really liked the way you held the rotor still while you torqued your axle nut. Great idea !

I was about to give up on this job...thing was stuck in the knuckle pretty bad. Can of penetrating lube later and 10 minutes of pounding - nothing (that's what she said). Cracked open a cold one, sat down and grabbed my torch. Gave it a few good smacks and it finally popped off.

There's no need to remove steering knuckle and strut. If you have long 14 mm socket, you can reach the rear hub bolts without removing suspension, makes the job much faster ;)

A very helpful video.

Thanks for the video. when i see the tires, I have the feeling that they look like a little turn of the cam bolt wouldn't have been a problem for them ;-)

Nice videos two thumbs UP

Exeselet Job. And good video. Thank you for you help

Nice work.

Great video 👍

Great video

Jobs like this never go this smooth at home LOL

If you don't have a big nut smacker like the Snap-On Mr. Subaru has (or the 1/2" Milwaukee or similar), do yourself a favor and get the insert out of the wheel, put it back on with at least 2 bolts opposite each other, lower the baby back down and put your back in to it. I'm writing this because today I forgot, but had a screwdriver jammed into the brakes to immobilize, and it works! This was an American made Craftsman screwdriver, I'm sure Harbor Freight wont cut it. Didn't even bend a little!

You are the best in the West!!🎉 And all

Back plates on many 2005 Legacy cars will be in very tender condition, especially in salt country. The perfect time to replace them is during this operation, or at least brush down both sides of what's left of them with some Black Star rustproofing or equivalent. I'll be replacing my back plates with each hub/bearing assembly as needed. My right front bearing is howling for attention as I write. It finally started making the alloy wheel warm in less than 30 miles. Time to park it 'til the job is done. I wish it were summer. I now see I could do this myself. I have all the tools and stands, but I'm also sure I'd use up some knuckle skin and get a little back stiffness in the bargain. Job security for our mechanic is a good thing.

Nice work as ever, Query, distinct ridges on tone ring 10.33. old one. smooth ton ring on new one 10 54.

Thanks!

Nice job. I have a question regarding retrofitting those newer hubs to the older the 03-06 Baja and 01-04 Outback, will it fit with minor mods?

Great tutorial, some of those "specialty tools" used do cost a small fortune though. Not every backyard mechanic can afford them.

very good video. i did this on my 2004 legacy today and was looking around for torque specs :) I did the job without removing anything more then the caliper, and brakedisc. it is possible to get a 14mm socket on the bolts holding the hub and replace it without removing any allignment bolts.

Ruthless with the uggdugga wrench haha I’m spoiled too, but that abs sensor, I was terrified for ya lol

great helpfull video and great tools ,can i borrow them, ha ha

I just replaced with moog replacement part and now I have check engine light on and other lights along with abs is this because I didn’t use OEM?

Would this be a similar way to change the rear wheel bearing assembly for a 2004 Subaru Forester??

I see some guys leave the camber bolts alone, and take the ball joint out of the lower control arm so they can get the CV joint and axle out before taking the bearing off with a slide hammer or hub buster. I take it you feel it is easier to disconnect the upper strut mount, because that way you don't need to fiddle with the lower ball joint? Or, do you do it that way because you have more room and a better angle to hammer the bearing out from the inside?

Thats a mighty nice cordless impact you have there.

Impact is basically required if you live in the rust belt. Snapped two breaker bars and a socket on the camber bolt. Great video though!

Subscribed! Going to replace the RF bearing on my ‘05 L.L. Bean. Half shaft has a torn boot and is clicking, what brand would you suggest? I hear Subaru dealers sell rebuilt versions? Don’t want any vibrations. Thanks!

Very Nice. Thank you. I do have a question about how you feel about Timken bearing replacements? I know you recommend OEM, but would you consider Timken a reasonable substitute if availability/time is an issue?

Which bolts can be used to remove the rusted break roter? Are either of the bolts used from a previous step?

Thanks for this video. I am anxious to see what other material you have up there. Anything for a noisy '97?

I suspect I have a bad wheel bearing on one of the front wheels. I hear roaring/whirling noise gets louder as I accelerate. The noise goes away only when turning left. I think the right front bearing is bad since the noise goes away with the weight off on left side when turning left. And putting more weight on Right side makes the bearing quiet. What do you think? I would appreciate any help/advice. Thanks!

I just replaced the axel on my 05 Legacy GT wagon it was clicking and making as if something was moving back and forth when you turned or when you first started to accelerate. I replaced the axel because the boot was cut and there was no grease in there. I put an OEM Subaru axel. The car doesn’t shake but I still feel and hearing something when start to accelerate or turn. Could this be an issue?

I just replaced a bolt in style hub assy in a 08 Legacy w/o removing the tie rod or axle from knuckle!

Anyone know offhand what the thread pitch is on the bolts used to push off the rotor? Last time I replaced them I just hammered them off but will be reusing them this time around.

more videos of this Generation model! only because i own one :P

Thank you so much for this video, Mr. Subaru1387! Whereas I could not get the tie rod end to let go by hitting the knuckle or by tapping (gently) from the top, your video made the rest of my hub replacement process so much easier than the Haynes manual ever could. Speaking of the tie rod end - there was a little bit of grease that leaked from both sides of the car when I did this - is that a concern, or something I should disconnect my OCD from? For everyone else out there (and perhaps Mr. Subaru1387 can chime in on this if he wants to do a PSA), I live in NJ and my bearings were the original ones (10 NJ winters) and no matter how hard I beat on the bearing it would not come out without the aid of a "Hub Buster", specifically the ATD Tools Wheel Hub Removal Tool, which did the trick with about 5 blows from a 4lb sledge hammer. Some folks on the internet have expressed concern about this tool causing damage to the axle, but so far so good on my part. Thanks again, good sir - you saved my bacon as with a Covid-19 related layoff situation, I could not afford to have this job done by a Stealership, but it did afford me the time to get the job done right with the guidance of your fine video.

Hello from NZ Your very skilled at ur work and I have 2 outback ez30s.. Thank I'll be subscribed to u now.. And the work u do is very motivating and encouraging.. Thank very much. NEW ZEALAND supporter.. 😊😊😊😊P. S do u have shirts or jumpers?

Great video and I'll be doing this to my 08 Legacy soon. One question though, is it necessary to take off the spindle from the strut mount and tie rod end or could you do this while it's still all connected?

Great videos. Enjoy watching. Very professional. Any advise for getting torque specs for this job on a 17 crosstrek? Or are they similar?

Nice video as always. Thank you. Looks much easier than the press in style of the older ones. You would normally change both, correct?

When you reinstall chamber bolt and align it up with the mark when it gets torqued down does that not change where it is aligned then im curious, great vid by the way if i need to change my bearings or axles i know how to now thanks to your vids 👍

Is the right hand side Axel nut a different direction? Plz help. I'm following the directions down to a tea. But can't get that aluminium Axel nut to crack. IV done WD 40. Heat and body Weight even on a crack bar. No luck....

Changed three of the wheel bearings on my car with no problems. The Front right however, two of the hub bolts are stuck on there.... ended up rounding 2 of the bolts. Just my luck. Going to try the blue shop towel method. If that doesn’t work, extractor socket.

One more question. I have to drop the trans pan on a cvt xv and the manual says just use 3 bond or equivalent ( ultra grey) but I have found an oem gasket. Should I use the gasket and ultra grey, just ultra grey or just gasket. Thanks as always.

just had a rear wheel bearing replaced on 05 Outback. Knocked out the rear seal and it appears the grease was dry. No damage apparent in the race. Has anyone attempted to install a grease fitting? Seems like these bearings should last forever if greased?

Hi from NZ! I suspect my car's suffering from the same problem 😬 and I'm not sure the males in my household will be able to help assist me lol... So fingers crossed it all goes well! I'm wanting to attempt doing this myself. Any tips on what I should/shouldn't do? 😊

does anyone know if this same wheel bearing assembly will work for the forester (03-08)?

Great approach. I would be afraid of damaging/ shortening the life of that poor ball joint.

was going to attempt this job on my 04 legacy today but i don't own any power tools of any kind, im rocking old skool tool setup lol think i be getting my mate who is an actual mechanic to do this

Very good video. Mine has been bad for a while now. Could a bad bearing affect the ABS readings?

Is it possible to change the wheel bearing without touching the cam bolt?

Will those knuckles bolt onto an 04 Forester?

Anyone knows the size for the bolt 🔩 to remove the brake 📀 disk

Hey MrSubaru my 99' Forester has been having a check engine light a P0440, I'm pretty sure it's an evap problem but i have no idea what it could be. I don't hear a leak in the muffler, and i already replaced the old filler neck with a brand new one. Any ideas on what the problem might be or how to pinpoint it?

Great video, thank you. Is it reasonable to assume the process would be very similar on an '04 Legacy wagon?

Is the setup on a 2004 forester different? It looks like all you can get is the new hub and bearing separate, when I look online. Versus the complete assembly that you show in this. Thanks. I wish I had seven grand to buy the sambar

Recently hit a curb bending inner tie rod and causing the steering wheel to go crooked. Replaced driver side inner/outer and got an alignment along with balancing of the wheels. Could anything else have bent causing a vibration/noise above 40mph? sounds like a weird humming/ramping up noise. Some research shows it could be a bearing or cvaxle. Any suggestions? Thank you!

My question, is it ok to paint everything up before installing?

I finally bought a floor jack like that (after giving away a cheap one) but I think I got it too short! LOL. barely if at all gets the wheels off the ground on my 2010! 😂😂