The way I've learned it was that Olympic style archery relies on the clicker as a draw check, so they sit behind the clicker as they aim and then draw past the clicker, setting it off. At the moment of release, there is a greater expansion force like with non-anchor shots. Same with Manchu style archery with the bowstring+chest anchor and the feather+face anchors.

@@MMOhawked Yes, they come to full draw, then expand until the clicker clicks.

@@MMOhawked And barrow archers have to expand and rely on their instincts to know when the get to the right point in their transfer.

yes correct, just wanted to make a point :)

@@ArminHirmer A release point or an anchor point? Or any point at all? ;-)

@@geraldtrumpp2340 as said a release point, not an anchor point (depending your shooting style of course)

thank you

Can you explain a bit more about relax whilr pulling back? What I have been doing is start aiming while drawing , with my bow hand hold still towards the target, I release when I roughly reach the anchor point.... But my tutor said to wait 3 seconds at the anchor point🤔

I m using Slavic release BTW And I was also told do not aim while drawing ， aim after you reach anchor point.......

@@Mr840126 what I do is that I push while pulling, and keep pushing while pulling and relax my fingers as I release while I’m pulling and pushing and I have great success. The continuing push and pull makes ur body twist and when you twist while your bow goes into the 1 a clock position it will allow for a beautiful kahtrah. I probably do a lot wrong. So Who knows.. I do a lot of different stuff, Right now I’m currently creating a new style in which I don’t worry about footwork stance bow shoulder or anchor point, I’m having success. But not all the time so I’m working out the little details, But the way Malta teaches (Armin) is probably one of the most accurate styles there is. And the most accurate I have shot. And I’m pretty sure he says to twist with your shot. Like feel it in your abdomen, and the only way to shoot while you twist is to keep releasing while your twisting. At least in my mind. That’s how this works. Kinda like punching, you twist with your punch and use your stomach while twisting, I basically do a punch while I twist. The hand coming back is my release hand (and it keeps going back) and my bow hand is my punch.

@@Mr840126 while your getting instructions from a archery teacher, I would also go ahead and get on Armins patrion, and send him videos, he will be able to help you in that regard of aiming.

@@AllofArchery thanks so much! Will do!

thank you for watching. there are may very good bow builders out. I might do a top 10 soon

yes of course, you always should keep pulling, even if your hand "anchors"

@@ArminHirmer With Mediterranean I find (and it may just be me) that a fingertip anchor can cramp the hand and encourage stopping pulling, but an "anchor" of the heel of the thumb under the ear allows more relaxed fingers and a cleaner loose, and more continuing pull? Anyway, while I'm here, I just want to say thanks for the interesting and entertaining videos, even as an ELB shooter I really enjoy the bow reviews. If importing, tax etc, weren't so complicated I'd be really tempted by some of the Chinese (Han/Tang) bows, but I'm a bit old now to learn a new trick like thumb release.

@@johnminnitt8101 About import: In Denmark we simply get a letter from the import post office, demanding a payment... The letter explains how to pay it online... Then the bow is delivered... I too was worried the first time, but it is no problem... I am 62, and had to stop shooting, a year ago, as my three finger draw hurt too much, with my rheumatism... But then I tried thumb shooting... It took a week, before it "felt natural"... Now I simply love it... But I am still "training my thumb muscles", and can not yet shoot 50 arrows, without muscle pain afterwards... However, you can also use that, with a longbow... Just place the arrow on the right side, obviously... Try it!!! Happy shooting Dan

@@danboron1 Hello, thank you for the amiable reply. Import no doubt is OK in a sensible country like Denmark, but here the VAT, import duty system seems to have been in a state of total confusion since the (in my opinion) folly of Brexit, so it may not be so straightforward. I have tried a few thumb shots, everything goes wildly to the right, no doubt one can sort it out but being 70 now, and in poor health, I wonder if I have enough archery to come to do so? Still I may give it a go, watching Armin's bow reviews keeps tempting me.

@@johnminnitt8101 You can do it, you just need to fix the angle of your bow hand if the arrow goes too far to the right or you can just simply compensate your aim.

thanks. I am always open to constructive and good criticism :) just seems that many KZfaq consumers are lacking the ability :D

@@ArminHirmer There is nothing else to be said...

Super, liebe Grüße

Yeah, though I like Armin's suggestion "release point" more. It's a very blunt but accurate description

Floating anchor point is a lot different, floating anchor point is this same release but a always moving point of release. I often use a floating anchor point, but when you want to burn the bullseye up you release like this just at various points. And that is what is called the floating anchor point

For me yes

I think I showed it in an older video . There are a few ways to do it

Well it is a release point because you get used to releasing it at a certain point. Area is too broad

area can be a wide range. point of release makes more sense to me. but its just a name :)

@@Daylon91 depends on the type of shot you try to achieve: it's not the certain point on your face in itself that makes a good straight shot, it's wether the arrows is aligned with your wrist and forearm and the aiming spot (not target, just the aiming spot). You can have these parameters checked with a precise spot of your face, but that's usually for most persons a 28/29" draw. If you want to pull a 32" power shot with a heavy bow, your release point will be far behind your usual spot, and can be down to your upper chest if you shoot heavy hunting bows/warbows. As long as you keep everything aligned and relaxed in the right forearm, the exact spot does not really matter outside of the power the shot will have.

@@KroM234 exactly and our mind knows subconsciously what do do. We just have to listen

@@ArminHirmer Yes, that was kind of my problem with area/zone too. When I read your comment, I thought, (very german) "Moment!" And I really like THAT. Release Moment. - the moment when during the pull the hand has reached the perfect* position/point to release. So it's more about timing than positioning *perfect is certainly debatable 🙋?

Made by Archers Tidbits

na wir haben doch nicht gar nicht ueber den preis geredet hahahaha

@@ArminHirmer verkaufst du das auch in deutsch? Loslasspunkt klingt auch super gut nach Behörde 😂 -grade den Übersetzer bemüht. Freigabepunkt ist korrekt. Kling aber noch mehr nach Beamtentum. Trotzdem besser als Loslasspunkt.

hehe until now we did not call the anchor point AP, but hey why not PoR :)

The fast technique involves grasping the arrow with the index finger of the bow hand as far as I can see. I've shot too many years from the left side, so I'm having trouble convincing my muscles that it's ok to shoot from the right side. Been playing around with holding bow and arrows like Armin, but when loading the arrow, go between bow and string, over the hand, and then grasp with the index finger. So far just playing with this, but you might try your own experiment. There are advantages to shooting from the right, among them less paradox when using thumb release. Armin made a discussion video about this. But a 3-finger release likes the left side better IMO. One thing I've picked up from Armin is to not be afraid to try something different and if the first try isn't good enough, try something different.

there are a few. you can either hold the arrows in your bow hand (look for Kassai) or out of a back quiver (dagger technique)

Thank you, my sister is coming back from turkey and is bringing a Turkish quiver, so i want to learn how to load and shoot fast an arrow using it, but it will be quite difficult since i have to shoot from the left side of the bow since it’s a black hunter recurve bow.

@@mufasabrown2149 Just tilt the bow, horisontally, so left side is up, and then you do not need to "move the arrow around the bow"... Then you can load the arrow fast, from a right hand hip quiver.

bad shooting style :)

kind of yes, you just dont pull further but you keep the pulling motion and dont rest your hand

@@ArminHirmer Brilliant, will give it a go! Many tnx for the reply.

I think it's the same effect because is about your back tension and your ellbow so the fingers don't matter.(thumb release feels more natural) Howard Hill does it. I tried it and it helps against collapsing.

With Olympic Recurve you do exactly the same, creep backwards through the clicker and relase.

never stop pulling you can anchor, but dont stop your pulling motion

Which axis does the thumb draw stabilize? Vertical or horizontal?

Archer's Tidbits, did a video recently. Yes he makes left hand versions and its 35 Euro I think

@@ArminHirmer thank you for the promt reply & info Sir. 👍🤝✌

it still is a fixed point, just not an anchor :)

The shorter the brace hight is, the harder it is to avoid the arrow hits the bow "the second time", and that "second time" makes it fly "sideways"... By "second time", I mean: First the arrow touch the handle at the arrow pass, but then it should pass without slapping against the handle, "a second time", even when the tail is "waving" from side to side, like a flag in the wind, because the arrow is bend, when released... One simple thing to try, is a more "open stand", so the chest "face the target more" so the shoulders are NOT in a line against the target... That force the bow-arm to increase the sideways tension, from the shoulder, so the arm and bow is "jerked a bit to the side" automatically when releasing... You say you keep "straight arms"... You could try keep the bow arm slightly bend... And the elbow pointing to the left... Also that increase the tension, on the "left side of the arm" so when you relase, the arm stretch out, which moves the bow away from the arrow. Also the different kinds of "khastra" moves, are done to avoid "angled arrows"... Armin made several vids about that... But a third simple thing to try is a "totally loose bowhand"... Perhaps you twist the bow now, without realizing it... So when starting the draw, relax the bow fingers, "a few millimeters away from the handle", so they grab the handle automatically AFTER you released... Some would say: If the arrow fly "sideways" from the bow, the spine of the arrow is incorrect... But IF you perform the "right release moves", that should not matter, when thumbshooting... I use arrows "spined for 80 pound bows", on my 35 pound Manchu, with 7½" brace hight, and they fly straight, ONLY by using "open stand" and "loose bow hand"... Only with my new short Korean, with only 5,75 inch bracehight, I have not yet succeded, shooting "straight arrows"... With those "very stiff arrows", I NEED to perform Khastra "perfectly correct"... I train that standing 2 meter from the target, so the feathers have no time to correct the flight... Try these things, and see if one, or several together, solve your problem... If not, you need to train "khastra moves"... Happy shooting Dan

thanks was waiting for that comment too :D

Of course

Zhuran by AF I believe

Hou Yi, Chinese bow by Vegh

@@ArminHirmer I knew it looked different...

Chinese Hou Yi by Vegh

@@ArminHirmer very pretty bow