Thanks for another great test Steve!

Very very interesting results and conclusions! This is getting more and more exiting the further you dive into the subject!

That would be a beast with the proper 3/8 full chain rode. I'm contemplating a replacement for my c34-2 w/33lb Rocna & 225' 3/8 full chain rode

This is why we don't anchor at less than 7:1 with our 6-year old 45lb M-1. If you are at 5:1 in a named storm you probably are doing something wrong. But what the hey, it's your boat... We have been thinking of upgrading to a 55lb M-1 for our HR-35, but in 5+ years of full-time cruising with no breaks and avoiding marinas while riding out whatever storms come our way we haven't had any issues with dragging at 7:1 or better -not in named storms and even a couple of near misses with tornadoes that darn near knocked us over as they went over. If we know a bad storm is coming we find a good anchorage where we can be sure to get 10:1 at high tide plus whatever is predicted for storm surge. I trust in the trigonometry of sufficient scope plus we use a good stretchy bridle to keep shock loads down to a minimum I'm generally happy so far with the "45lb" M-1 as we haven't been wrecked in the named storms we have ridden out in real world conditions but your inverted dragging issue is indeed troubling. I would hope that at 7:1 or better where the anchor was designed to work at things might be different. IMHO 5:1 is a lunch hook and I wouldn't leave like the boat for even a short town run in good weather at such. If we can't find room in an anchorage for 7:1 we find another.

I just spent a few weeks in the Bahamas. I saw the same fouling around the bolts. The grass/sand bed would attach and I would have to drag the anchor for a few minutes to flush it off.

Steve, you are doing fantastic work, much appreciated. Could you perhaps test and rate stainless Spade anchors e.g. The 15 kg X80? Testing anchors in the 15 kg size would be interesting in general. Thanks Joakim

You mention holding to weight. It may be of interest what the fluke area to anchor weight is. Anchor weight will help the tip of the fluke dig in but the holding power after set will mostly come from fluke area. (so we have the Danforth) A heavier, beefier, shank and fluke due to plate thickness jump, would give a lower fluke area to anchor weight.

Great vids. We'd love to see a test of one of the most popular anchors used in the Northwest - the Columbia River Style breakaway "T" anchor. Thanks!

All chain rode is the only way I would anchor. The weight of the chain means that the pull on the anchor is much more horizontal...

Inverted stability makes me think about asymmetrically roll bars.

Looks like maybe all they have to do is weld on a 3" x 3" tab to the top of the rollbar pointing down to act as mud brake. That might cause the upside down anchor tip to roll down and forward bitting back into the mud upside down and then this may possibly cause it to flip and re-right?

Thanks for pulling the big ones. Have to get a load cell and see what the real world storm loads are. That is a unique bowsprite, like it. See you out here.

Steve, what are good ways to protect my bobstay and bridal or snuber from chafe when running the line through bow chocks or over the bows prit roller? having a anchor hold bottom is just as important as the boat holding the rode, potential failure in the ladder deserve equal attention.

Enjoy your video. What is the best anchor for a 45 foot sailboat in coral reef?

How do I set up a good bridal system that won't chafe on any hard points or the bobstay, I'm thinking of skipping the bridal system and just using a snubber from the bow cleat and out the anchor roller but that causes other problems like friction on the brackets that hold the anchor roller and to a lessor degree the bow sprit post just ahead of the cleat.

22:45 Any value in turning the bolts over so the nut is on the bottom? Or even better, replacing them with coach bolts with the nut on the bottom?

The question was yesterday about Delia's accident which collapsed the bridge in Boltimor - whether anchors on container ships can stop a ship. I'm trying to find out why ships don't drop anchors or do they not brake or its too long to do ?

Steve ref the inverted stable pull due to the roll bar being dug in. With the M2 without the roll bar, I assume this wouldn't have happened and the anchor would have rolled over the set straight away? Is this a warning that maybe roll bars aren't the benefit we thought they were?

Any plans to test gnarly big bois as storm anchors? Something like the 80-110lb range?

Steve, would having more chain help this anchor more versus rope? Just wondering.

Interesting point: 3,300lb pull out strength but my chain and anchor rode are rated to @7,000 lbs. In reality, the anchor is going to break out way before the chain/rope. Are we over specifying our rodes and wasting money?

Hi Steve. I live on a 28ft sailboat. I’m getting ready to buy a mantis anchor but I do not know which model to go with. I’m going overkill with the 35# mantus. Which is better the M1 or the M2? Thanks for any reply in advance

Interesting. Re scaling, I'd like to know how the 30+ lbs anchors differ from the 20s and 40s. I suggest there are a lot of people with 35' - 40' performance cruisers who don't want the weight of a 40+ lbs anchor up forward. Any chance of comparing the 30+ pounders? Thanks.

I wonder if Mantus has considered putting some kind of fairing over the bolts. As far as the performance vs the smaller version, perhaps the thickness of the shank plays a roll? Perhaps creating uplift from the wide bottom edge?

Hi. At 2500 to 3000lb on the drag test what type of wind and speeds does that simulate?

The best anchors for a heavy boat are either, a 25kg Rocna or a 25kg Spade...