For sure, I'm keeping it for the foreseeable future.

They used the N54 up until 2016, so it makes sense there's still warranties out there for N54s.

n54 is the beta test for all of the current turbo inline 6 bmw engines. they can test stuff on the n54 market and then engineer it into the new stuff. thats why the b58 is so badass it took 3 tries.

Agree, you can purchase the low P line segment with new style sensor (part #13537622751) for about $189 (FCP). I did that in November, no problems.

Thanks, I'm not sure but you might be able to sneak your phone under the intake manifold and get a quick video of the sensor. If it's bronze looking it's the older one, if it's silver it's the new one.

@@VehicularDIY Thanks. Car is not throwing any codes, but the HPFP is an older model and logging does show it dipping below 10. Ill go ahead and do that and check the color. Thanks again I appreciate it.

Just doing mine now and it has the old style sensor I have a '11 335is also. I thought the fuel line would've been upgraded but I guess not. Now I'm waiting for the adapter before reassembling everything.

Did the sensor fix car stuttering at wot?

@@Salvnyc_ I went ahead and added both. Problem solved.

Following up. Any update on what caused your surging?

Seems like this is one of the most mysterious issues with the N54. Did you find a solution?

Just throwing out an update. I did a new HPFP and my surging went away. I have new cold plugs I am putting in. They’re Bosch ZGR6STE2.

Did you find a solution to the problem?

So you have a check engine light lit up and only that code is showing?

@@VehicularDIY correct only code. I was doing some research and maybe it might be the fuel feed line? Does that make sense to throw the 29f3 code?

It's holding up so far. Oh yeah do you have any thread you can link to where they are saying it fails?

@@VehicularDIY All the comments are in the bmw facebook groups that I'm in. I was on the fence between the two because I'm looking to upgrade my 335i for more power

What sensor did you go with? I just bought a new HPFP and what I thought was the low pressure sensor but it turns out to be this new style and it’s actually a “high pressure fuel sensor” that’s goes on the fuel rail up top not at the bottom. So I just ordered the old Style bronze colored “low” pressure sensor that goes there. Looks like people are using the “high” pressure sensor as a “low pressure” sensor with an adapter. I’m gonna change them all.

Yeah, that's nice and healthy.

Ok thank u am a huge fan and alway watch your vids when doing my upgrade 🙏 keep doing the good work.

He said... he had fuel leak. If you need to replace fuel sensor itself you will get P29F3 code.

Oh. You’ll know. Your car shuts off and they you get a Christmas tree worth of lights and the code they say here but you need the obd reader. The user code is a ccid-121 at least for me.

BUMP!! I have more of a general question: does this type of upgrade even exist for the N55? FANTASTIC content man! Keep it upppp!!! 😎

They removed the sensor on the N55, a lot of newer direct injection turbo cars don't have a low pressure sensor. They derive the value on the high side.

can you let me know if it worked for you? i have a 135i and noticed it says the adapter is only for the M3/4/5 etc

My n54 has 210k miles on it. I only changed the water pump. Not all are lemons. Most people just abuse them. They run on higher temps than most cars and if you abuse it things break down. I always warm up my car before I drive it.

Because these cars are built with performance in mind originally and less longevity. People who can afford these vehicles will often swap to the latest ones anyways rather than paying for a Honda or a Toyota that's going to last for years, but have way less performance. You boost a civic to 300+ Hp suddenly it's longevity is hindered. You gotta pay to play.

@@anthonywright5275 Yea, I guess I hear the stories of the people who want to look rich with a used BMW.

@@NeoAndersonReloaded I am not rich by any means. I am mechanically inclined and can rebuild an engine if I have to. I bought mine because of the ride quality and performance. I couldn't care less what people think when I drive it. Besides where I drive it it does not have the rich status as in other places. A used 335i is strictly for performance.

@@NeoAndersonReloaded lol nah... even if someone has a used bmw, if it's running, trust me, they got money... they eat money in maintenance and repairs. But yeah like 67re said, the 335 is more of a luxury modern tuner. And if you are mechanically inclined, it is an ultimate driving machine. Full bolt ons will have you walking GTs, a turbo swap and you'll have exotic owners pissed.

Yes as the fuel pump periodically cycles.

Thank you for your response. I’ll be changing it this weekend. Great video.

Bump! Wondering the same. Have an LCI E60 N54 and intermittently getting a 29DC code where the car goes into limp mode and restarts only after being switched off for >10 mins. Not sure if this is the root cause or should I bite the bullet on a new HPFP.

@@sharathprabhakar9195 I’ve already replaced the EKPM3 and coded it, installed a new battery and fuel pump assembly and nothing. Over the weekend I realized that the fuel pump itself is starving itself for fuel, the filter has never been replaced to my knowledge and the filter is an in-tank filter and has a built in Fuel Pressure Regulator, so I’m wondering if that’s the problem. The car won’t run unless it has more than quarter tank of fuel. The fuel tank had gas up to the rim on the driverside where the filter goes, so I removed the assembly and figured out that the pump works and sends fuel. Now after looking at the gas tank, I realized that the fuel pump had no fuel to send because the fuel pump side (passenger) had no fuel in it. I used a cheap transfer pump from harbor freight to move gas from one side to the other, I reinstalled the fuel pump assembly and supposed bad filter and the car turned on and ran for the first time in 5 months. I’m not at all sure what’s actually wrong, if it’s the pump or filter itself but I’ve bought the cheaper of the two and opted for the filter since that is the odd man out. Fuel pump assembly is new, battery is new, and after transferring fuel to the pump side of the gas tank and having it run with 0 issues for 35 minutes, that means the HPFP and Injectors all work as intended. If the filter doesn’t fix my problem, then chances are I have a faulty LPFP that I can warranty through FCPEuro. The only thing to never be addressed is the filter so, I’m hoping for a miracle since I’m trying to sell this 2010 535xdrive, Alpine/Peanut Butter with only 132k miles. Pray for me 😅🫣

The part where the sensor screws in didn't look any different on the new line?

@@VehicularDIY No. Everything looks identical. Thought it would have some antivibration connection or something. But nothing. Just needed the sensor and would have saved $120. But it did come with the newer sensor already installed. So maybe I would have noticed something in the threads if it was separate. And the bottom of the new sensor is flush with the fuel line threads. No adapter in between.

@@TheFrenchPug Is it possible that your line had already been replaced with the upgraded part? Mine hasn't been refreshed, and I am seriously on the fence about whether to use the adapter and new sensor as per this video, or replace the whole line like you did.

@@forcedinducti0n after swapping it out I could not tell any differences in the fuel line. I didn't see any vibration protection on either one. All I feel I did was spend more money for nothing. The biggest difference has been putting in the $1400 index 12 injectors.

@@TheFrenchPug Lol classic..."yeah, we made it better...buy, buy, buy!!!". I guess it's possible that it had already been swapped in the past. I also didn't see much of a difference, so I went with the sensor-only. Thanks for the insight :).

No I wouldn't say so.

The upgraded fuel sensor fits into that adapter in a more secure way. They mate like an AN fitting. Is Permetex PST fuel resistant?

@@VehicularDIY Yes. A primer may be needed for stainless and galvanized Steels.