Don't complain! He told you at the beginning, and I quote:"If the music doesn't work for you, turn it down or hit the mute button. " He has made a very nice video showing his experience. Chezzzz, Some people would complain if you handed them a gold brick!!!! Thanks William for taking the time to make this pictorial for us!!! :)

Fantastic song I love it

My hips were on beat shoot!

Very hip and cool song

@@suzzieq6295lol

What size

@@jodislaight 24 feet wide x 28 feet long x 14 feet at peak.

Two years later with supply chain after supply chain issues, "sticks" are really quite expensive these days.

Why was it so high?

@@Adamcfresh Insulation. The contractor picked a blow-on foam that stuck to the steel, and then hardened. Insulation requirements were per the "Title 24", and energy calculation requirements. Steel transmits hot or cold very well. Thus, a special insulation. But that is California. Hopefully cheaper in other states. Building turned out very beautiful with the internal framing. Speaking of framing... a stick built needs framing anyway. Metal shell, with insulation, and internal framing. Thus, a metal shell still needs framing. Simply go with a stick-built, and you have your internal and external framing. Hard to beat a "stick-built" home (2x6 walls) for price. Every now and then someone sends me a new construction technique with different materials. Every time so far, stick-built is less expensive.

i know youre thinking compound style but its gonna turn out a glorified trailer park. especially when its advertised as a short cut to living good for cheap.

Robert Firestone I loved the house we have the same exact one we use for multiple purposes. My husband’s “shop” hay for my horses, it’s sturdy and sound.

The steel building industry uses exactly the same sales technique as with used cars - charging as much as possible based on the relative ignorance of the buyer, who will likely not do any comparison shopping. I simply learned all of these tips in an hour of watching informative videos. It starts with a high-pressure sales technique that has the salesperson tell you that there is a limited-time savings/special reduced price on the steel from the manufacturer and you must act immediately or end up paying more later. The up-front money the salesperson asks for is actually his commission on the deal, and he disappears after getting paid, leaving the buyer to fend for themselves to coordinate and trace the scattered shipments through the delivery and after-sale process. I had some fun messing with with the sales guys asking them to explain why their steel supplier's prices fluctuated so much, when the commodities market for finished steel was as stable and reasonably priced as it had been in 3 decades. All 3 of the companies I made inquiries with had men doing the sales and all 3 used the same BS high-pressure approach to force a quick sale. From what I've seen from prior buyers, it usually isn't a fun experience, especially when the buyer finds out that they could have paid a lot less, and gotten a lot more for their money. As with any major purchase, the buyer needs to do research and decide what their requirements and priorities are, then shop around from a small group of potential suppliers that have been vetted for reliability and consumer satisfaction ratings, and asking all of them to provide written quotes to supply the same materials and services - never give them different requirements because you won't be able to judge which prices are better if you are trying to compare apples with oranges. Give them all the same building specs to build their quotes on, and make sure the quotes comply with those specs for the type, strength, thickness and finish of the raw materials, fasteners, insulation, doors, windows and other line items. The same thing goes for your site preparation and foundation work. If you live in the Northern climates, I recommend using in-floor radiation heat, and it does pay to have a dual heat source to heat the garage, like your primary (propane/natural gas, fuel oil and never electric), as well as a wood-burning capability using either logs or pellets. If the wood stove can be outfitted with a water jacket heat exchanger, hook it up to the water tank supplying the radiant floor heat because one load in the wood stove is capable of heating an insulated building for 24 hours. BTW, the insulation picture in this video is not advisable, as it leaves huge gaps behind it, leaving lots of cold spots. Spray-on closed-cell foam is the best insulation available for the uneven surfaces of this type of building, covered by plywood at the bottom and painted with flame-retardant paint above the plywood all the way to the roof. When you are getting ready to pour your foundation & slab, remember to install insulated sleeves through the foundation for later installation of electric, water, sewer and fuel supply lines, and if you plan on installing anything inside that requires deep anchor bolts (like a vehicle lift), pre-measure where those anchors will be located and install them in a plywood frame that will float on the top of the concrete after it is poured. Also remember to take lots of pictures of the layout of the in-floor radiation heating pipe layout. This is to eliminate any possibility of drilling new holes through the concrete floor and ruining your radiant heating system by drilling through the piping embedded in the concrete.

Mark Lee Very informative, thanks!

Mark Lee I hate it when car dealerships do that. I was looking for a car recently and as I was looking at the car lot I noticed all the cars I liked didn't have the price on them. I'm not going to go inside and ask for the price of the car for every car i was interested in, so i left. right down the road another car dealer had the sane cars but with prices on them. and that's the dealer I bought from, paid cash and out the door in 20 mins. how do you expect to sell anything if you won't tell people how much it costs

kim w easier to just search out the materials yourself. Surplus prices. Your putting it together yourself so very cheap

Mark Lee fdf

Yes, please!

google it-

Tori Beaver Search metal barns

No roofing necessary

Ron James i thought they were called Quonset huts.

@@JDog-tn8we To us Brits, Nissen huts. I was housed in one when I was in the British army. Quonset sounds american/canadian.

The building is 38 ft long, 30 ft wide and 15 ft high. I chose to step the end facades, front and back, under the ribs of the building to make it a little more visually appealing and to provide a stoop or covering for the entrance doors. When I realize the inside of the building was so high I decided to build a storage shelf at the 10 foot level on both sides of my center wall. That worked well and it gave me a lot of storage space that I did not plan on.

@@whbea Thanks William. I was thinking about building something roughly the same size, helps me to get some perspective on the idea knowing the measurements. My plan is to use as kind of a short term apartment on some property until I can build something larger... then turn that into garage/shop. i like how you stair stepped things. Knowing the size really helps give me a better idea of what i'm thinking of. I don't feel so blind about it now. Anyway, thank you again for sharing as well as sharing the video. I really appreciate it.

Thank you for this reply. I'm building a similar house but 64 long and 40 wide 16 high. Mine is an S style quanset though. This is great inspiration and came out great.

James Morrow no

F no

Nkari yes many years ago i worked at Borax plant in Boron California . We built their new visitor center . The building was two Q styles like this . They were built in such a way that the entire building was covered over with dirt . Boron is near Mojave and is hot as hell . This may have been one reason to burry it . One thing the Q materials were not light weight like these garages they were more like the guardrails along highways on edge of precipices . In other words very heavy and with thickest possible galvanizing .

Thanks for letting me know! Your finished wall looks really great.

Can you tell me how the sips are attached? I read all the posts but it's not mentioned. Thanks!

mariaicb its backer board. small pieces to keep the shape of the shell.

Would be nice to see the finished ceiling and arch of your insulation panels stuck to the metal

How did you attach the backer board? I'm curious if you had to drill holes. Nice work by the way!

It's called irritating and pure noise....get a life!

Jim, as a former painter, who read the warning sticker every time I climbed the ladder, I totally agree. But, she is cute.

Having fallen off a few ladders in 40 years of painting I say buy a bigger ladder!

Joseph Moses Scrolls Yes, these make strong buildings. I'm planning a similar type of building for duplexes. I bought (3) 18 gauge - 60'wx40'd low arch buildings - 130mph sustained wind load(12k each). The arch peak is right at 20 feet high, but the curvature radius is 32 feet. The base connector will be sitting atop a 5 foot stem wall making the overall inside height around 24 feet. Each unit (30wx40d) will be a two story 2 bed /2.5 bath aprx 1500 sq.ft including loft area above living room and kitchen. Conventional building is much more expensive, however this will take a bit of ingenuity to get it all done correctly.. The interior arch ceiling construction is the most unique feature of the build. My plan is to create interior arches spanning the 60 feet made out of laminated 2x6 lumber placed every 48 inches. In my case that's 11 arches. Then run simple 2x4 stringers across the entire length of the building, spaced at 24" centers along the arch. This will give ample material to affix sheet rock, fixtures, fans, conduit, plumbing, and other required products. EDIT: That wind rating is not taking into account end walls or interior reinforcement - which mine will have. I will tie wire from each of the wooden arches to some of the protruding bolts using "eye-nuts" and eye-bolts. Thus gaining enormous strength over the length of the arch. NOTE: These buildings were a special order to get 18 gauge, they are normally are sold in 20 gauge.