Your diagram and demo of how the tire moves was awesome and spot on !

That cardboard demonstration of the suspension drop was genius sir! GENIUS I SAY! Great information, as usual guys. Thanks! -John

Thinking outside of the box time. This is my modification since 1985. Properly relocated the upper control arm holes like a Shelby Mustang. Make a left and right upper control arm by shifting the shaft 1/4" rearward giving more caster. Buy a 1968 bMustang big block front coil spring, and cut 1/3rd of a coil off. Align using Shelbies's specs. The results: If done properly you will use very few shims, the car will handle amazing, the car will sit level allowing for larger front tires. I also got 1/4" steel and cut and trimmed four pieces that fit under the upper control arms underneath where the spring perch mounts, drilled the holes and welded in place. This gives extra stength the that area. I have seen cracks there from pressure. And I always use grade 8 bolts. Here is a trick for quick inspection. After one installs all the components, take a red finger nail polish and wipe a line over each bolt and nut on your suspension and onto the fram or mounting surface. This makes a quick inspection. If the polish paint is cracked and the line moved, your nut or bolt has loosened up, requiring re-tightening. And I have never used a wedge. Here is my other modification before anyone thought of it. Get a 3 or 4 spd bell housing and drill out the rivets holding the folcrum pivot arm. get a thich piece of plexiglass anbout 1/4" thick. perfectly drill out the transmition mounting holes where the plexiglass has to be threaded too on the bell housing. Drill out the twu fulcrum mounting holes perfectly. Now bolt the plexiglass to your new Ford 5spd bellhousing. Drill out the fulcrum holes. Get a 5/5th inch solid aluminum block and cut as a spacer for the fulcrum, and drill the two mounting holes. Weld it to the bell housing. Counter sink the two Grade 8 counte sunk bolts and bolt the fulcrum pivot to the bell housing. Than attach the fulcrum arm to the bell housing . Now put your cluch assemble on the motor with the 5spd bell housing, Mate the transmition and attach the cross member. At this point, you can use all the mechanical clutch linkage so you don't have to do any modifications, or hydralic throwout bushing and clutch master clylinder. And the whole mod looks 1965, giving it an original look. And only a decerning eye will notice the five speed, because to the novice it will look like a four speed car. I also added an aluminium drive shaft. Also on my sway bars I used hime joint for exact adjustments. And the alignment techalighned my car with me sitting in it, so the car is zeroed with me in it. I also use a 6AL MSB analog with a Formoco 1985 5.0 distributor. For anal engine build if you get it. Lay your new pisons out in order with the new rods in order of the journels. When putting them together, off set the wrst pin so that when you bolt the rod on the crank, the rod will be perfectly centered and the wrist pin will be even making the whole assemble balanced vertically. An old flat tracked secret when I worked in a maching shop. Cool?

Thanks for the video guys. This modification is well worth the effort. I have done it on my 65 coupe and it made a world of difference. Watching how you did all this on the video was very helpful - thanks again1

Great vid guys, particularly like the description of how camber changes with suspension movement.

The Negative Camber Wedge is an amped up Shelby Drop. We'll go over the differences in this coming weeks episode....

Thanks for the quick reply. Looking forward to the next episode. Thanks again for the information. Randy

The Kit for the '67-70 Kit will be the one you want. It is specifically for the 3 bolt '67 on up control arms. NPD Part Number: 3A049-3A.

If you are doing the 1-inch drop you won't need to do what we've done here the standard ball joint would be fine. But be sure that all your front end parts are in top working order. The Negative Camber Wedge Kit gives the optimum performance but if budget is a concern, then the 1-inch drop would be OK.

LOL Bubb, we talked about that AFTER the segment was shot. Sorry for the tool abuse. Folks, if you are using the kind of punch we used, you should LIGHTLY tap on it then use an auto punch to "set" the dimple.

A quick way of rebuiling the fron suspensions as long as the spring perch and upper control arms bushings are good. With the car on the ground, cut four pieces of 2x4s tha will fit under the upper control arms, two boards to a side. Jack the car up and the boards will hold the weight and one can change all the suspension pieces except the coil spring perches and upper control arm bushings. What tends to wear out first on a 1965 Mustang are: the upper ball jont, the lower control arm bushing to the frame, idle arm and tie rods steerting asseblies. It one needs to replace anything else, you can make or buy a coild spring compressor. Just remeber the coil spring is loooooong. If you are going for full rebuild, Look at my other comment.

Well Maksim, our rule of thumb is this, if there are "helpers" on the springs then you should replace them. Also, if during normal driving with good shocks installed you tend to bottom out the car a lot. then your car is a good candidate. Rear springs that have extended rear hangers or reverse sag should be replaced. too...

Great demo.

Always great videos guys! If you perform the 1" drop, do you need to install the new ball joint and wedge? Or can you run the OEM ball joint. I wish I could wait till next week, but I'm in the middle of this exact project TODAY and need to know if I should get wedge kit.

Excellent video. I eagerly await the next part. :-)

I know this is 9 years old but would this help on a 1970 Torino?

Thanks for this guys...I have never liked the steering on my 67' mustang but have been hesitant about upgrading to the mustang II rack and pinion because of cost. I think I will defenetly go with this until my pocket book grows a little more tho. can i get a part # for the springs?

Great video!, this upper control arms (4 bolt) can fit in a 70 fairlane 500 ?

Thanks, Guys. After nearly taking my arm off years ago on my 37 Chevy leaf springs, it was good to see the safe way to take off my coil springs on my 66 Mustang. I'm curious about the difference between the Shelby drop and the negative wedge you guys are showing. Do both? or one or the other.

Hey Jeff, love the video and have the kit as I have mentioned. Before I put it on, question. If there are shims, would I want to remove a few (equally) to compensate until I get to a alignment shop? what is the next effect right after install? Also, watching global west, they talk about mounting the spring saddle backwards if you go with the stock saddle because of bend but if you go with roller or the non rubber you can mount straight....you agree ? disagree?

What brand bits are good for metal and the kind that you're using

Coming up next Thursday....

Do some guys restore their original springs such as painting them, or is it better to go with a new spring. How would I know if I need a spring exchange.

I know there is the same concerns with the camber on the 67-69 Camaros as well, so is there a simple (cheap) fix for this issue too?

Hey will this kit work on a 1967 fairlane with a big block

hahah you guys make it look so easy i'll be doing this when i rebuild my 66's front end

So one could keep the original control arm and if it already had the ball joint replaced (nut and bolt instead of rivet) then you don't have to drill out BUT would you have to remove the control arm anyway because of the shims or does this save a lot of work ? Thanks !!!

Thanx that would be great!!

Also, If you look at all those shims, when I did my mod, I only have one shims per stud. Making the upper control arm almost hard mounted to the frame.

So if I put the wedge kit on can I still run with stock height coil springs? I'm thinking wheel and tire combo would be a 15x7 and 205/60R15 if that makes any difference as opposed to stock 14" wheel and tires. By the way your videos are an awesome help when it comes to my 65 mustang coupe.

I love your show! Should I do the negative camber with just the standard 1” drop or can I go without?

What if you stuck the rubber isolators with some kind of silicone instead of the zip-ties?

cool stuff

Thanks

Not sure Chevys, I know that the Mustang is worse for this than the Camaro and Chevelle. The suspension on the GM stuff has much better Camber return than the Mustang. The problem with the GM set up is there is no easy way to re-locate that control arm due to the mounting style and configuration. Let us look into that and see what we can come up with!

1984, We'd need to know what you have on the car and what model it is. All of that comes into play. A/C and power steering both add weight. As does the engine. If you want contact us here in a Private message and we can help you select a spring...

LOL thanks Jev!

Totally unrelated, but I have a 65 Caleinte with an 85 5.0, 86 mustang T5 and cable type clutch set up. do you have a set of headers that will work well with this setup. I've called the major manufacturers and they are no help.

I'll be looking at doing the "Shelby Drop" this summer - is this kit necessary? it seems pretty expensive.. ($354!)

Could You Repeat That ZIP TIE PART

I have a 78 mustang cobra, I want to change the rear end but what year mustang will fit?

Klaus, huh? The Shelby drop came from the Holman Moody Falcons

I have watched the two videos on this about 100x. The picture at 1:29 is exactly what I want. Is that the same car??

Have a friend who lost his front teeth when a spring popped out of the compressor so im really careful.

Thanks, but the page is offline

Jeff...Jeff...Jeff,,,Call me for advise on the center punch you used on the rivets...Yer Fren BUBBER

Wwooooowwwwwwwww

7 years later.....what kind of wheels are those?

Dat be on sweet mama jamba... Shaft!

I guess I'm more than one man because I've done it by myself many times.

That style spring compresser is the incorrect type for this job. The correct type has a spoon the size of your hand that fits into the coil. The upper end sits flat on top of the shock tower. This compresser sucks the spring up into the tower and it cannot come loose and injure you. Unless you are changing the spring itself you dont have to remove it from the car. All the parts come out easily.

Well, if those ball joints are junk, then I don't know what to call mine. I think everything with my suspension is literally 53 years old!

I quit watching because this guy left dhow