Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it! That day when you saw us was the day we were testing it out. That episode will be out next Monday 😁

Thanks! 🤘 Are you on a SS or Bafang setup aswell? 😁

I've seen the derailleur style tensioners and would have gone that route if my bike was a full sus, but since I'm on a HT I decided to go with the one I bought. Actually tested this setup this past weekend and it performed well. I'm quite pleased with the gearing and the output of the Bafang motor. The video of this test will be out this coming Monday so stay tuned! Wow a 3 speed that would be the ultimate setup! Just low, medium and high gears. But like you I was getting fed up with cassettes and having a rear derailleur. Loved the idea of a clean hassle free setup. I would have liked to go 36t up front but due to my hub spacing in the rear, the lowest I can go is a 42t to keep the chainline. LOL no self control... tell me about it!! This thing is addicting!!! The power of the Bafang seriously amazes me. Ride safe out there and enjoy! Thanks for dropping a comment!

What is S.A. 3 speed? Does it have derailleur? I’m interested.

@@linnmagic S.A. for Sturmey Archer. They have been making internally geared hubs for 100 years. They make 2, 3, an odd 4 speed, 5 and 7 or 8’s...I might have 500 miles on the 3 speed so far and it’s fine. I’m using their tensioner that looks a lot like a derailleur. With the new to me KMC Z8.3 8 speed chain, the drivetrain is totally silent. I’m still looking getting a cog with the most offset that should make the chainline perfect, or as close as it will ever get. The BBSHD had so much torque, you can run it as a single speed. Would still get you up any hill if you pedal some. And still have a top speed of 28mph. That was with 42t chainring to 20t cog.

Glad you liked it!

@@FirstTimersCycling it is helpful. Just bought a repair stand.. haha!

Repair stand is a must! Especially if you will be doing your own maintenance. 👍

Nice! Thank you for your support and commenting!

If I'm not mistaken, the Surley is a spring tensioned design. The DMR is a set and lock design. If you have full suspension, the DMR isn't advisable. I like my DMR but I've since moved to a 28T rear cog using an adapter. Unlike you, my derailleur got ripped from the power of the Bafang so that's why I went SS lol.

That's something Alvin would do lol 😆.

@@FirstTimersCycling Who's that? The Chipmunk? Lol

@@luigiprovencher8888Yup lol. Nah my friend on this channel.

@@FirstTimersCycling what's their channel?

@@luigiprovencher8888 Oh no it's Alvin who I ride with on the videos of this channel.

Hello and thanks for commenting! Tested this setup this past weekend so that episode will be out this coming Monday. So far I have to say it's working out well with the 2.1:1 ratio. But, still need more trials. I have to say on flats I'm able to pedal with enough speed without needing the assist so if I go any lower on the gear ratios I would pretty much be ghost pedaling on flats lol. Would be great for climbing but on flats, might as well just throttle it. I guess it comes down to rider preference. I still like to pedal and not rely on the Bafang too much unless it's a steep climb. Still need to exercise right?? 🤣 Wow 11k RPM!!! We're talking about motorcycle rpms lol with 1:1 ratio, that's like wheelie all day territory!! 🤘🤘 I'll be making another video for a setup I'm going to try for uphills but worried that flats is going to be like I was saying earlier, ghost pedaling. Going for a 34t rear using an adapter to mount a front chainring on. This would make a 1.3:1 gear ratio but for now I'd like to test the 2.1 ratio on some more hills to gauge where I want to be at. The Bafang motor can take whatever you throw at it lol. What's your setup? Do you have a Bafang as well?

It does put more strain on the motor , and fw adds quite a bit of heat to be aware of as well.

@@ronan9784 Ah didn't think about that regarding the fw creating heat. Good to know!

1:1 ratio is stupid. Field weakening consumes more too

​@@eXTreematormaybe that's you😅😂😅😂😅😢

That's funny, found that out later that I wasn't using it correctly. Good eye!

I've always had a thing for SS setups. With the Bafang's power it allowed me to set it up for climbs as I hate climbs lol. On the downhills I now focus on less braking to go faster. I never really cared too much for going fast on flats so a single gear setup works for me, but I do understand what you're saying with the 10spd bbshd system. To each their own?

Yeah, we're no experts but are somewhat mechanically inclined enough to do the maintenance work ourselves. I have a feeling the rear derailleur on your bike is slightly out of adjustment. Does it happen when you are pedaling hard or from normal pedaling? Also, did you purchase the bike from your LBS? If so, they should do the adjustment for free as a perk of purchasing the bike from them. If you want to try and fix it yourself, you'll need a bike stand or a buddy to lift the rear of the bike so you can adjust the H/L screws, the B tension screw or barrel adjuster of the rear derailleur while pedaling. I'm betting that if or when you take it to the LBS, they'll adjust that rear derailleur and send you on your way.

That reminds me....I was googling Banshee derailleur hanger last night. I’d bent one, but frame came with a spare. That has since been destroyed. I had, long time ago, straightened the original that was bent. So it’s back on and I bet it’s not perfect. I should break down and go to bike shop and have it checked, or diy it...

@@stevenreyes3680 Yeah if the hanger is bent, it's hard to fix it properly. Better to just replace the hanger and dial in the derailleur again if you're having shifting or gear slip issues. Some local bike shops will dial it in for free and set you on your way in hopes of further business. But if you can at least change out the bent hanger before you take it to them that would be the most cost effective.

The BBS02 or BBSHD Bafang motors should work. You would also need a bottom bracket size of 67-73mm. The motor doesn't determine SS compatibility or not. You can use the same motor with a rear cassette as well.

@@FirstTimersCycling How do I find out what size my bottom bracket is? It's a Schwinn Mountain Bike if that helps. Old though. It could be from 2010 or earlier. I'm in the process of waiting for the tools to arrive to remove the cranks and bottom bracket tomorrow.

@@luigiprovencher8888If it's unknown what BB size you have, it should have the size # etched or printed once you remove it from the bike

​@@luigiprovencher8888Measure it!

Lol just being weird 🤣 i don't normally say it like that.

KMC X7 chain has been good to me. You must have some serious pedal power in your legs! 😆 If you are using true SS cogs, try using a SS chain as they are a lot thicker. 👍

@@FirstTimersCycling thank you I will try that. 🙂

First and foremost, make sure the chain line is straight. If there is an angle in the chain line, it'll easily drop the chain. Also what type of chain are you using? I recommend a 7-9spd chain or lower if possible. The lower the speeds the thicker the chain. What kind of tensioner do you have? Seems odd to have it too loose with a tensioner as that's what they are made for.

Are you talking about the Bafang Mid-drive kit? If you have a 68-73mm bottom bracket size, this would fit. I'm not sure what your bike style looks like or what the frame design is like.

I hear ya on that but I've always been itching to convert a bike to single speed lol. I have a roadbike that you can see hanging in the back that I use for complete unassisted exercise. It has a 50/34 front and an 11-34 11spd cassette. I bought a 42t chainring to convert to a 1x setup in the future but wanted to get my mtb setup right first. My goal for the mtb was just to have a hassle free setup that can get me up the hills so I can enjoy the downhill sections of trails. The BBSHD on a roadbike sounds insanely fun for the road though lol. Especially with the gearing you are setup with. The elite road cyclists must be so angry at you when you pass them up hills hahahah. Just give them that ebike grin 🖐😁👍 Agreed... the BBSHD is such a blast to ride. Thanks for commenting on your thoughts, ride safe and enjoy!

Nono lol I don't wish to burn parts or components and appreciate your tips and advice greatly! I do however stand and pedal on the bike and not completely relying on the Bafang to take me up the hills. A new episode will be released tomorrow with me testing the setup on some climbs. I don't show it but I touched the motor during some stops and it wasn't hot at all. I used at max PA3 on climbs while pedaling myself. I tried PA4 but at that level I did feel the Bafang exerting more power and immediately switched back to PA3. The battery after 20mi of riding was still at full power. Also another thing to note is that I'm a 140lb rider with gear. I can't fit anything lower than a 42t chainring due to chainline issues at the back. If I had boost or superboost spacing this would prob not be an issue to go 36t which is what I really wanted to do but can't. Got a link to that Phaserunner? Money is an issue for us so we can't try all the latest and greatest right now but always open to learning how it should be done! Again, really appreciate the feedback you're giving. Thanks! 👍

@@FirstTimersCycling We all stay tuned and hope for the best.:-) Your videos, views are great. You show a lot of nice spots in the LA area. It's another face of the big city built for cars. Cyclers around the world would like to come along for rides.

@@jonasmeier417 Cheers! 🍻 That's the goal for the channel, to show sites and trails in California. Just need to figure out how to get to these sites as right now the vehicle we used to use to transport our bikes is down so we are left with riding to our destinations. As much as I prefer mountain trails over street/city rides, we do have some city attractions we'd like to visit and show to the world as well. 😃

@@FirstTimersCycling Since the community, the viewers and clicks are growing, you might get rich anyway and you can afford anything.:-):-) California offers many, many, many great trails with just a few people riding there. This is a big difference to a lot of other places and areas in the entire World.

@@jonasmeier417 Lol thank you for the kind encouraging words! It would be great if that happened but not a necessity for the channel! Just trying to have fun and show people that anybody can ride! Agreed, California does have many trails that we're excited to checkout for the first time and show everyone! Where are you from if you don't mind me asking?

Hello! Yes I am currently using the Pinion rear adapter to fit a bigger cog in the back. Here is that episode => kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qM9mn9R8kt2UqKM.html . However I don't know if they are doing the same thing for an internally geared hub. The adapter I'm using is for a Shimano/SRAM cassette style free hub with the splines, not the threaded style.

@@FirstTimersCycling thank you hiro no I don’t have no internal gear its a ss cog but the seller told me its only for interally gear maybe he misunderstood me i send you the link

Yeah send me the link. If you can't link on here add us on IG, FB or Tiktok and send the link there. 👍

I believe I ended up taking 4 links out and yes I used the half link (quick disconnect) Wasn't able to get the tensioner in the up position so it needed enough slack to attach then moved the tensioner in the down position. When you try for yourself, you'll see what I'm talking about. Taking an extra link will make it too hard to connect, adding links back brings too much slack which needs to be addressed with the tensioner.

Hello! Not too familiar with hub style motors but is the cassette removable? Can you swap it out for the 7spd that you have?

I get you. I figured as much just from trying this gear ratio. I've since changed the rear cog to a 28T and it spins a lot faster. Of course a nice 3spd IGH would be awesome.

I get that but it should be fine as long as you are also putting in power yourself. That way it really doesn't get bogged down much at all. If you use it like a scooter yes it would wear it out quick

@@MB-jz3uu Makes total sense, and yes I do pedal and leave the PA at the lowest setting. I rarely let the Bafang power itself for me 🙂

A 36t front chainring and a 22t rear should suffice. But if you get the spider gear adapter like I have in another video, you can go even higher in the back. 36 front 28 rear should be all that you would need with a Bafang motor. You'll be climbing very easily at PA1 or PA2 assist without overheating the motor. Your speed on flats would take a huge hit but you'll be climbing like a bat out of hell lol

@@FirstTimersCycling that’s what I was needing to know for certain thank you. There’s a popular ebike company that builds single speeds for hunting setups that use exactly what you described in this comment. I could care less for speed. I don’t mind to pedal. But places I go I need a climber.

@@aeestep77 What's that ebike company? I'd like to check them out.

@@FirstTimersCyclingthe company is called stealth hunting ebikes. They have a KZfaq channel as well. Showing some of the steep climbs their bikes will do without pedaling. One video shows a bike climbing a sky lift hill no pedaling. I think that particular bike is a 7 speed on their website

@@FirstTimersCyclingwhat is the spider adapter? New to e-bikes. That something I’ll need for the rear cog

Hello Cree! All the links are in the description of this video. It was hard to find this specific tensioner but there are many out there. I just wanted the DMR tensioner specifically because I've had experience with it

After staring at the package a few times I made out the product name. I did find one on line an ordered this part. But.... thanks for using this product in your vid bc it might solve my Dilemma . This Conundrum has been one of my issues I needed solve... thanks again.

You're welcome!

No I haven't. But will it allow me to possibly get it so I can set the tensioner in the up position?

@@FirstTimersCycling you're not going to use a tensioner if you gonna use a half link chain

On a narrow wide chainring?

Hello and thank you for commenting! I understand what you're saying and it makes sense but to each their own I guess. I love the simplicity of a single speed and just changing the rear cog to whatever tooth profile I need for my rides. Currently on a 34T rear cog to help with the climbs and to put less strain on the motor. A hubdrive may be better for my single speed setup but the 1000w middrive is just so efficient, in my mind, I'm putting less strain on the middrive as I would be on a lower wattage hubdrive so I just can't see myself switching over.

Not a chance in hell any hub will keep up with my single speed 4kw bbshd in the trails. Not a single chance. That is why I have a mid drive. Purpose is subjective to any user.

@@ronan9784 🤘🤘🔥

It's just fetishism. I've seen it before not once.

@@FirstTimersCycling Hi, your video and the comments have been really helpful to me. I am a complete novice with ebikes and have been trying to get my head around all the options, pros and cons and prices of different kits and motors for a couple of months now before I make a purchase. I have a single speed road bike and am having to commute more and more on my bike for varying reasons hence i'm looking at turning my existing bike into an ebike. My commute is currently 1 hour 45 minutes when I cycle all the way (sometimes I train it halfway), I'm looking at getting the commute time down and to not be as knackered as I am when I arrive. Like you I don't mind getting out the saddle and putting some effort in. Most of my journey is relatively flat but there are 1 or 2 steep hills. What i'm trying to understand is, with a midrive motor, I believe the midrive setup I may end up with (42t chainring and the existing 16t sprocket) I would be ok on the flats to get a reasonable speed (in comparison to no motor) and the motor would not overheat due to a higher cadence? But, on those couple of steep hills I encounter would I risk damaging the motor with that gear ratio or would I get away with a limited amount of strain on the system on my journey. Any input is greatly appreciated. P.S. There is a cheaper/lower spec 250/500watt middrive kit option that enables me to be legal in the UK on road and switch to the higher wattage when "safe to do so", what views do you or anybody else interested have on that as a setup. I'm simply trying to get to work long-term cheaper and faster. Thanks in advance 👍

Chainline is an issue on this bike because if I go any smaller on the crank it pulls the chain line outside of the rear chainstay. I have to go bigger in the rear. It is a chore lol but loving SS setup!

@@FirstTimersCycling what size sproket in front and back? Cyclone is one chain version. Motor sproket is front of chainring.

On this video, 46t front 22t rear. I'm now on a 34t rear.

@@FirstTimersCycling thanks.. I assumed bigger motor would change the sockets size. I was thinking 30 front 46 back. I'm finding it depends on allot of factors. Hills..weight. controller and fine tuning. Thanks for replying.. missed where you mentioned sprocket size? Thanks again for reply.. and help 👊👊 enjoy the day. And gid bless 💪💪🙏🙏

@@sleepingbearffg5008 You're welcome! You are right! Sprocket selection depends greatly on hills, weight, controller and tune!

🤣 I have since learned the proper way to use a chain whip. But hey, this is a channel where we do things for the first time lol but thanks for commenting!

@FirstTimersCycling I figured you knew now lol just had to say something signed nick

Really? Can you explain how it needs to be used? Am I using the wrong wrench?

@@FirstTimersCycling you can see this pic? i.postimg cc/VvBdCQ1L/change-cassete.png The stars on the cassette are deformed due to improper use of the puller.

Thanks for sharing! I need to fix mine now! I also believe you might be able to put the DMR tensioner in the up position on the chain instead of down if you haven't tried that. It's supposed to be better around the sprocket.

@@FirstTimersCycling according to what I can see, I would say it is designed to tension the chain just like you show on your video. The combination of the two holes doesn't seem to have enough travel in the grooves to set it up in a upward position.

@@candrelsrosa Ah, gotcha!

Are you talking gear ratio?

Yes @@FirstTimersCycling

What you say is true don't get me wrong but this was preference for me. To each his own I guess? I love that I can do this with the power of the Bafang motor and not have to worry about shifting gears.

@@FirstTimersCycling quite honestly, 99% of the ebikers round here don't shift gears anyway :-)

@@hindesite 🤣 damn right lol. Just up the PA and throttle away lolol

The thing is, the HD works great on a street bike. as long as your chain is not stretched, just put it on and go with the stock steel sprocket. As soon as you try and put one on a mountain bike and really put it to work all sorts of issues come up with chain alignment, weak derailleurs, chain suck, chain falling off, etc. It's a problem if you dont have the right components. After destroying many parts over the last two years, I'm almost ready to make my HD MTB a fixed gear and just use more power when things get steep.