Good question. I don't think the pumps I installed can pump faster than what a 1/2" or 5/8" hose can deliver to the bilge. You have to consider the actual rate of the pump minus friction and amount of lift rather than its rating. And since these lockers are mostly subdivided into small lockers and more or less watertight to the tops, which are usually several inches above the waterline, it's less important to keep running the pump faster than intake of water. Rather than run a pump nonstop for who knows how long, even if we had the power and the pump didn't burn out, it's more realistic to seal the locker and not drain it until repairs can be made. It doesn't take much to have a leak that lets in more water than your pump and power source on a small boat can reasonably deliver so at some point, upsizing the pump is futile. But if you have a large locker without a sealed top and want the ability to drain it as fast as you can for a limited time then I think 3/4" would be a good choice.

Agreed, super clean install and layout.

Cawfee Dawg Have you found an A30?

I haven't seen a bilge pump directly supplying a shower but have thought about using a whale baby foot pump from the tank direct to a shower nozzle. In cold weather I have used a solar shower bag inside for a simple gravity feed shower. If you need to stand inside rather than sit and don't have height for that you can leave the bag on deck and run the nozzle thru a portlight. Or build a shelf in the overhead or use a net to hold the bag up high horizontally might work.

Multi-caulk from West Marine.

I use whatever household water filter is in stock that is similar to the one shown here. I bought one at Home Depot a few months ago that was a different brand but it takes the same charcoal filter size. Also make sure you get the threaded hose nipples that will fit the filter and the size hose you plan to use. There are probably other good filter types out there but I wanted these since they have relatively inexpensive replacement filters that are commonly available.

We're trying to keep motor size, weight and cost to a minimum. The Triton will motor at 5.5k with the 6hp and even though it doesn't have the reserve power of the 9.9 to maintain that speed in waves and headwinds I find it adequate for this size boat. Currents are less important than wind/waves because the boat is only going to do maybe 6.5k no matter how large the motor. The only specs I could find on the Yamaha T9.9 were 93 lbs dry weight for the 20" shaft. The 25" will weigh more. It's too large and heavy to fit the space on this boat and looks like the extra long tiller handle is too long to fit. I have put a Nissan 9.8 into an Alberg 30 but haven't seen a size/weight comparison to the T9.9 to know if it would fit also.

The new 9.9 Tohatsu with the fuel injection is unreal. No more carb issues. My 27 has a newer Yamaha 9.9 20 inch shaft. I sail on the Pacific so the extra torque helps. My boat was built for the outboard. Lighter than those full keels you are modifying. Love your work.

Yes that will work. Looks like the equivalent to what I used.

In practice they drain fine when heeled and I had plenty of time to observe it during two circumnavigations on the sister ship Atom. The main reason we didn't make separate drains above the waterline was because the boat already had the fiberglass T joining the three drains to one and decided to reuse it. The footwell being so close to the waterline complicates the issue of other options. It may not be possible to drain everything including footwell above waterline so a seacock would be required installed below the waterline but not where existing tube is because there is no clearance. If I did another Triton I might try to rebuild the footwell floor angle to drain aft into the outboard well or thru transom with flap valves to reduce back flooding then join the deck and cockpit seat drains to an above water thru-hull as you suggested. Reason we didn't do it here was to save a large amount of labor and not lose the scant headroom under boom and bimini. As I mentioned in the comments on the other video, the only reason the fiberglass tubes could be connected directly from hull to footwell is because they are in a corner supported by two bulkheads and within a watertight locker. Any other situation then it shouldn't be done so it's good you point that out.

@@atomvoyager I'm dealing with same issue myself on '67 Pearson 35, your site and videos have been quite interesting. I have to decide about moving scuppers up above wl soon or at least put seacocks sailingwhimsy.com

The cost to refit a Triton like Atom and similar boats we've done varies a lot depending on how much work the owner has contributed, the choices they make on jobs needed, and what condition and what good work had already been done before we got the boat. In general though it takes me the equivalent of about 6 months working full time with labor based on $50/hr. It's not cheap and for most owners its not in their budget so I'm doing this series of videos to help those that may want to do similar work themselves.

​@@atomvoyager And that is very kind of you. Thank you.