Liqui moly Germany's best engine oil watch the proof!! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bt2AgrKWxNaseoU.html

Those valves are clogged up way past the "miracle spray cleaners" stage

One thing is for sure... that's one clean ass throttle plate 😆😆

You didn't even follow the whole instructions, that tube was there for a purpose.

Pull the intake manifold, hook up a remote starter and seat 2 valves at a time, soak in a non evaporative solvent for 30-45 mins, wrap a flathead with a rag and lightly scrape. Once clean, wipe up as much as you can with a rag and blow out the rest with an air gun

This was interesting due to the fact that it clearly didn't do squat in my opinion. Thanks for posting!

Mannol 9873 intake cleaners id safe to use with teflon safe. BMW use teflon washers in the VANOS This application was not done correctly: maintain air filter in-situ (remove MAF sensor to protect it) 30 seconds single burst @ 2500rpm + 1 hour hot soak + 10 mins+ fast drive.

since they made it with nylon manifold, i say open a thread hole infront of every intake valve where you can seal it back with screw and gasket maker,after you brush and vacuum it.

After this job is done that's going to be the cleanest snorkel I've ever seen..lol

Thought those valves would be shinny like chrome. Its a can of... Fail

Good stuff if there is only minor buildup. I recommend this service every 10k miles to prevent buildup. This one is definitely too far gone for chemicals.

What would happen if you followed the directions and used the straw, go through the maf and sprayed for the full 30 seconds?

That carbon buildup is hard to take off with cleaner and a wire brush, a spray cleaner ain't gonna do a damn thing.

I don't see any difference at all. You videos are an anti-commercial for these products.

Best visual example of reversion ever!!!!!

5:16 from my life I will never get back):

I used bg and wurth products in my shop. Never disappointed. Bg 44k was great stuff. For a car that barely failed a smog test we put it in a tank, drive about 20 miles and the car would pass with ease. Never failed.

The reason the intake runners and valves are this nasty in the first place is sludge and oil coming in through the PCV combined with sooty exhaust gas from the EGR. Eliminate that once they're clean and you'll rarely have to worry about that. With smog testing going bye bye in America (yay!) you can easily do an EGR delete which will in most cases help the engine actually run better overall, and there are several different PCV catch cans on the market that are inexpensive and easy to mount, or you can easily build your own. I built my own about 15 years ago and it has worked wonders. The only caveat is that you have to periodically empty them as they collect oil, and if you have more blowby than normal (my engine has 300K miles on it so that's the case with me) you have to be on top of monitoring it. Mine has a clear bowl that I marked with for a maximum level, so I can easily look and see when it has to be emptied.

Direct injection is a weird beast. Humble Mechanic and Deutsche Auto Parts have done some great videos on different carbon cleaning products and solutions that actually work beyond preventative measures (albeit both are focused on VW TSI/TFSI platforms)

I had this on a BMW 3.0 with 80k, only fix was removed inlet manifold and blasts the ports 1 at a time with walnut shells. Not cheap but like new after.

I think we all knew that a carbon cleaner spray passing by a caked up valve stem at 200 mph was not going to remove the carbon. You're way past that stage. But thanks for the confirmation. And let us know what kind of bore camera you used. The clarity is great.

If that's hardened carbon forget it! You'll never get it off and it'll damaged your engine if you do.

my first car was a 1960 Chevrolet belair and I had a broomstick like that for my cruise control I just measured how far it was to 70 miles an hour but some Velcro on each end of it it works really great

What borescope are you using?

It's better to perform Walnut blasting every 60k km / 35k miles because with these cleaners, the built up carbon that were dislodged will be running through your cylinders and exhaust and could cause serious damage to your cylinders and/or cat converters.

Привет!!! Я тоже автомеханик, но я очищаю этим баллончиком Маннол не так!!!! Сначала надо на холостом ходу через трубочку интенсивно резко подать очиститель Маннол на дроссель и мотор захлебнется от очистителя но зато смочится весь впускной коллектор и клапана и каналы воздушные и надо дать постоять мотору откиснуть там много углеродистых отложений они должны размякнуть и делать это надо на теплом моторе +40+50 градусов не на полностью горячем +90 иначе очиститель быстро испаряется, потом как откиснет 2-3 минуты заводим прогазовываем и снова заливаем в дроссель основательно чтобы мотор заглох и так 2-3 раза раскисаем впуск и клапана а потом уже заводим обороты 2500 и брызгаем не жалем очиститель смывает раскишие углеродистые отложения я использую весь баллон на 1 очистку впуска на моторах с прямым впрыском GDI и турбо Ваг моторы с прямым впрыском )))) очень запущенный мотор отложения на видео очень большие видно ни разу не мыли впуск поэтому без замачивания такие большие отложения и не отмылись

IMO those valves needed to be cleaned by hand. Maybe used at regular intervals to keep the buildup from starting this stuff may just as well would’ve worked. Using it on a coked up engine like that is like putting a bandaid on a sucking bullet wound.

Mannol intake can work, I've tested it, but it melts plastic so should not be used with plastic rocker covers or possibly intake air tubes. Important to follow the instructions unambiguously ;) to avoid plastic parts exposure.

It looks like a septic pit before and after. Hope you got it sorted.

The real secret (and I'm not a Toyota guy) is to buy a Toyota GDI engine. They have port injection when the engine fires up then it switches to direct injection when the engine goes into closed loop.

Why not spray directly onto the valve's? ???????? Engine off. As with the bore scope. Let it sit 10 minutes. Then check

I have a GDI engine 5 years. The car yard should have told us, and made it part of their warranty servicing, to use valve cleaner each time. So now I got to do it..bit by bit over a year. I don't want large chunks of carbon going down into the cat. In fact my engine seems to be the exact same as yours.

No way it can do anything without a heat soak, then running it for a good amount. I used CRC, let soak for an hour. Then drove around 30 minutes. Then I took a 600 mile trip. My car is running like new. I'm not going to disassemble jonny 5, but the power increase and smooth acceleration speaks for itself. Use CRC, and make sure to follow the instructions. If you can do like I did, and take a long trip beforehand, you're going to be happy.

Thanks for the video. So you already had the oil catch can installed?

Now look what u made me do, i ordered 3 of them

Wow this reminds me of South Main Auto video about egr valves on trucks, the ones driven lightly have plugged up, the ones that were beat on had clean ones lol

Hi what bore scope camera did you use? Very good image Thanks!

Spray directly in to the intake manifold through a vacuum line ( like brake booster line) then clear the fault code after. Your wasting your money and time the way you’re currently doing it.

Gotta tell ya, I did the SeaFoam spray and emptied the can just as they recommended and the difference in the valves was night and day. They also appeared to be seating a lot better. Right afterwards. That V8 ran smooth as butter and after about a month we were curious to see what it looked like deeper into the engine. We removed the heads and it was amazing how clean it was. Simply bolted it all back together (runner truck) and haven’t had an issue at all in the last 7 months. The engine has 166,000 miles on it and it sounded like it was ready to die. After that clean out, runs beautifully. Not sure if those results are typical, but I was and still am pretty damn impressed. 👍🏻😎👍🏻

Super vidéo qui met en évidence qu'aucun spray magique ne fonctionnera aussi bien qu'un bon vieux nettoyage manuelle avec démontage de l'admission 👌

I've done this before on my car. You need to spray that stuff closer to the throttle plate. Also don't forget to do a hot soak for 10 minutes then take it for an aggressive drive.

30 seconds? Impossible. snake oil for sure

As far as I know the best way is to remove the intake and the exhaust manifold, rotate the engine till all the valves from a piston are closed then spray inside. Not the way you do it. I have seen it like I'm say it and it work excellent

Hey Nate.. So in your Best Opinion. What cleaner do you think works the Best for DIT's I have 2015 Wrx..With 242,000 I bought it with 60 miles in it..Do I've used the Crc one tank renew in the Gas and Crc intake and turbo cleaner seem to help .. Really think it's time for walnut blasting..

Thanks, could you test if you can swap radiator coolant for thin oil coolant instead.

Suggestion: get your engine hot, turn off and spray your favorite cleaner into the closed intake valves, let it puddle up inside the valve. Let it sit for a hour or so, take note of the valves that you soaked. And repeat this process on the the valves you missed the first time. Remember a hot engine works best with this method. Its called a hot soak.

Possibly spray the valves directly and let it set awhile then start and spray.

to get to that much sludge on the intakes about how many miles and what type of gas i need to use to get to this problem? Would premium gas gave a different results on the intakes?

what cleans the diesel best at the air intake?

Like the vids but could you do a before and after side by side visual inspection Plus agree with the comment below ever think about removing intake and letting the cleaner sit over night to remove Carbon build up

Very interesting video. Since you were able to get the camera right to the valves, I wonder if you'd have done the same with the long hose and sprayed it directly onto the carbon and let it soak. Just a thought.

Thanks Nate for all the vids.

I just did a 2014 VW Jetta 1.4L turbo with 105k miles and is was terribly clogged with carbon build up. On my case was better to remove the intake manifold and scrape the intake ports and Valves with a Pick tool set that with the intake valves close, then fill the intake ports on the cylinder head with Brake parts cleaner or Gum gutter and with any small brush or tooth brush scrub all around to clean everything nice and neat . They came out awesome I wish I could post pics on this comment but we all know is impossible 😅

It made no difference! Still got extremely dirty intake valves.

What about the other 4 intake valves? Was that even the same car?

Can you explain the HARD part: How did you get the endoscope in past the manifold and into the cylinder head, so that you could see the valves? I recently tried to thread an endoscope through a throttle (held open) AND through an intercooler to the manifold, but it was impossible to maneuver through the intercooler and even find each manifold tube (1.4 TSI VW engine).

I would suggest using GM Top End Cleaner. One thought to try with your experiment is without the engine running spraying the cleaner directly on the intake valve / deposits getting access to where you are using your bore scope. Just to see if if dissolved the deposits. As also suggested is to run the vehicle at high speed driving and blow the deposits out.

After all those chemicals, i have not seen any difference.

You should have done it after the throttle plate and taken it for a hard run after doing this

Thanks for the video.

I used the similar one recently.. mannol egr/turbo cleaner, i disconnected pcv hose from air filter to intake (it sux air in) and gave it 1/3 can (500ml). You would not believe the crap that went out of the exhaust!❤ Bg 44k won't help!!! It goes through fuel line, not through intake! But it worx like a charm

I noticed that you have been using the same car for all the chemicals. Proof that the shit don' t work.

New Piston rings and new bearings... Also a cylinder head refresh at the engineering shop will be as good as new. That's the text book way.

Extralube ZX1 has a cleaning effect in the crankcase, and the combustion chamber. Maybe a little diluted in fuel would show interesting results when sprayed onto the back of valves. If the temperature is above 60c then it should loosen the carbon from the metal. It might be too aggressive though.

Did you remove the intake manifold to get the scope pics.? or else how to do that . Curious cause I just picked up a scope. TY

With this much carbon on the valves I would be doing this very gradually over time, No need to do it all at once. Cat converters are not cheap. The smoke comes from the burning of the product, not carbon. As I have seen CRC sprayed into the 02 sensor hole, that created that exact same smoke as seen in valve cleaning....thus it isn't the carbon that is smoking.

Realistically, every time you go to do a timing chain or belt you may as well take the head off and clean it properly. I can tell you from experience that cleaning carbon off valves... a lot of the chemicals have a hard time doing anything noticeable. I've had to literally have intake manifolds or heads in my hot tank solution at 200 degrees for an hour to over 7 dependent on how dirty they were and how much I had in the tank itself.

BG44k will require use over a few times as dirty as this engine is, use the 9210 BG pressure device and use a mix of induction cleaner, plenum and 44k

Would you mind telling me what the mileage on this engine was at the time of this video?...also, what mileage did it have when the catch can was installed? Thanks.

Remove the intake, tape together 30 or so plastic zip ties, turn engine to close valves, spray cheap carb cleaner in while jamming zip ties around to get carbon off.... If you don't have access to a wallnut blaster.

Never buy a car with a GDI engine. Should be outlawed.

With port injection, the fuel from the injectors helps keep the back of the valves clean, not true with GDI. Use a high temperature of vaporization oil. This prevents excess oil vapors going through the EGR into the intake. Redline makes one. LiquiMoly does too I believe.

I think best way to minimize carbon build up would be porting and smoothing the the intake track. No porous surface for the carbon to build up on...

That's some shiny carbon.

wow thats some crazy deposit

Where did you put the borescope camera to observe that valves? Can you show this in a video?

Is that OCC on the left? It doesn't work?

Just as an idea, try using the spray with the straw, and tape it to the PCV fitting on the intake, making a good air tight seal. Then try giving it several good sprays. The throttle might have been too far closed to allow enough of the cleaner in the engine.

Hi, love the channel. We have a 2013 Lexus GS with 240k miles. I tried the sea foam with the throttle body, and the check engine light started flashing. I stopped because I was afraid of doing damage to car. After 10 minutes the car started and drove fine no lights/ problems. I want to finish the process, but was afraid. It this normal to have CEL flash?

Carbon .. question will that even work on direct fuel injector engines .

I think you may see better results if you spray more product faster, yes I know it may stall the engine and you don’t want to hydro lock the engine but I think that the products may be evaporating some before actually making it to the valves. Just my two cents. Usually when I do it I force feed as much as I can while holding the throttle open !!

In the old days when cars still used carburetors we just used brake fluid to clean the carb and intake side of the engine. The intake of this motor looks like it'll need a soak to get all that gunk off.

I might try such spray cleaners as a maintenance. But for a first time cleaning after 75,000+ miles, the proven methods like walnut blasting are the only way to go.

Auto parts stores have a large variety of "snake oil" to chose from. The products don't have to accomplish anything. All that is required is that they don't hurt the engine. With airplanes, any product that doesn't damage an engine is FAA approved even if it does nothing to improve running. I read that spraying distilled water into an engine intake works as well as any commercial product because it induces temperature extremes which causes carbon build up to contract and expand. That will cause the carbon build up in the engine to fracture off. In a car engine that may cause the catyletic convertor to be plugged up.

Spray a 50 50 mix of atf and acetone in there or mix a little kerosene with it and spray it in on the dirty valves.. Bet it will break down the carbon.. Use a valve stem and put it in the spray bottle if u want...it will work better than what you are buying

EgR recirculation ontop of valve bad design

How many miles does this GDI have??

What about Ac delco carb cleaner dose it work with gdi valve?

It did not do anything , you can remove those carbons using a Metal Brush or pressurized blasting them with walnuts method .

Aren't you afraid that a loose bit of carbon could damage\scratch your piston, exhaust value or cat?

Nate. can you please show us how and where to insert the borescope camera to view those intake valves?

What mass air flow sensor?

You do this always on the same car. I don't believe you

Id use plain water,maybe with a bit of detergent in it.

Whatever you spray into the intake isn't comparable to direct application to the back of the valve and agitation with a proper wire nylon brush. This product applied directly is excellent.

My grandpa always used a product called "RISLONE" he would get the engine up to operating temp and drizzle enough "In the intake" to about kill the motor then a good shot to kill it and let it cool overnight. Seemed to work well, The old scout 80 spat out a load of crap and smoked for a bit but it surely smoothed out and quieted down. Try it for yourselves.

You get much less carbon build up with fully synthetic oils, especially the low ash ones

When I had a Ford Focus ZX3 I would run a double concentration(2 oz per gallon) of Redline SI-1 fuel system cleaner through a tank of gas just before the oil change. I would drive the car up a long steep mountain grade at highway speed to saturate the carbon deposits with the cleaner then park the car and let it heat soak for about 30 min. After that I would restart the car bring up the temp and then blip the throttle between idle and 3k rpm with the car stationary. I would watch the clouds of vapor and carbon in the exhaust and continue blipping the gas until the exhaust cleared. After a few sessions of this over a few days the carbon would no longer show in the exhaust and my engine would be idling more smoothly and pulling more strongly on acceleration, plus my cold start running would be better.

Mannol is not made in Germany. Headquarters and factory are in Klaipeda, Lithuania. They have an importer in Germany and they sell very well in Germany.

Best cleaner made in the world for carbon and fuel glaze is Chem Clean there is no other product on the market that works even close.. Its expensive and comes in a one gallon can but having it in your shop is freakin awesome. Our main use for it in our powersports shop is carb soaking, no scrubbing needed just soak for an hour and rinse and reassemble.