I haven't tried them yet but am going to probably get the single clamp to start with. Because it should except the thicker spines, the filet one will work better on lower angles and thinner blades for sure, but I don't see you having any issues with low angles on the regular single clamp

I'm not sure it's necessary on non coated blades.

I believe I made a short, I also did some live in a members live Sharpening, but you want to get a lapping plate, like a flat piece of glass or granite, the Silicon powder, add a drop of water and rub your stone on the powder. I will see if I can find a video

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This. I know he was a fan of the Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite. Im still rocking my lansky fixed angle system, but its definitely time to upgrade. Considering none of my knives are even $150, it wouldnt make sense for me to drop $500+ on a sharpening system. Once im willing to invest in more premium knives, then maybe id be willing to invest in a more premium sharpening system.

Me too. They make beautiful systems, with a dozen variants and packages, but their ability to explain the differences to allow you to make an informed decision just sucks. Truly terrible marketing. Gritomatic is even worse if anything, with assumptions galore and no explanations for anything. I’m surprised either company is still in business. I have like 40 questions on this and the K03 Hunter and the clamps and the default stones and the pricing that no one can answer. Guess I’ll just save the $1000 I have set aside and buy more knives and continue to freehand sharpen on diamonds.

Plus, you really do get what you pay for these days. I feel that the KO-3 is worth almost every penny...

👊

You want the kadet pro, with extra clamps, you can get different clamps for different blades with the pro series

@Neeves Knives thanks Jared, one more question please. I see TSPROF has a special on the K03 unit at $558 including diamond plates. The Kadet Pro with the same plates is currently $ 525. It seems like the K03 is currently a better value. Is there any downside to the K03 over the kadet pro 🤔?

@@kenny-Poo i havent tried the k03, and im not sure but i know the k pro allows multiple different clamp sizes if the ko3 does the same then it could be better but im not sure

I think you are correct as applied to those particular clamps...but tsprof makes clamps specific to address that issue. Hope that helps .

I ment to say grindjunkie multigrinder 2.0

I just looked it up I've never tried it but I'm gonna look into it

Mine just arrived today it's awesome but it doesn't come with stones you have to buy them separately it's a bit pricey but if you have aftermarket diamond Stones up to 6 in it will accommodate them

By the way brother they only have about one or two more available for sale so if you want to test it you should order it soon

yes by a tiny bit but theres nothing you can do about that so its good to just have a good starting point, and in most cases its very minor. also the thickness of the grind changes on the knife which will make the bevel thicker and thinner in areas but thats how its going to be no matter what esp with a fixed angled system

@@NeevesKnives got it, so what would you think is the upper length of knife for one of these - an 8 or 9 kitchen knife maybe? No doubt fine for my 4” deer knife

@@cheefussmith9380 id say for this model the bigger the better with the clamp they send, you can always get a different clamp for different size knives which they sell sep, but you can probably get up to a 10 to 12 inch blade, the small ones will be the issue without a different clamp

@@NeevesKnives terrific, thanks for your time!

I haven't had any issues w/ getting a Master Kit directly through TSPROF - I did have to wait a few weeks until the Allen drivers were available. Great customer service, I might add...

You can order the TSPROF and any stones from Gritomatic. They are located in the good old USA. So no sanctions.

@@justinhoward1406 thank you that’s very useful, I checked them out & I’ll order from them.

I use dish soap and water mixed

I had the KME - now the KO-3, no comparison! The TSPROF is the Cat's Pajamas...

@@davestelling Yea, I know it's a much better system, and I'm going to upgrade. Just need to wait till Christmas spending is over and can reload my bank acct a bit.

@@Mr_Obvious Good luck, I think you'll be impressed!

I had that problem few years ago, because I had used thr kme almost exclusively for several years and was heavily invested in their stones and aftermarket ad well. But since thr tsprof accepts that format I gave it a shot, and I haven't been disappointed in slightest. Yes 6" format works faster, but thr precision in thr tsprof over the kme is night and day. If your on thr fence just go for it...and little by little you can convert to 6" but honestly it isn't required to get thr full benefits of this system

TSPROF does have an "Extended Angle" accessory...

@@davestelling Not for thes models. k03, 02 and another past one only.

Is that per side or inclusive?

This system will do 12 inch knives just fine, heck my K03 from Ts prof would do a small sword for sure. But all systems have limitations aside from freehand but even then there's factors

Where can you get the L-adapter?

I love freehand Sharpening most but fixed angled is still really nice, freehand takes more dedication

TSPROF has a small accessory that attaches to the stone holder-rod to fashion convex edges...

I like to think that a really good quality pocket knife is 150+ so a quality Sharpening system would be worth atleast a couple of those, but the amount someone will usually spend depends on the knives they have in there collection.

​@@NeevesKnivesthat's a good point... Thanks for the reply..and other great video.

⁠@@NeevesKnives how well does the ts prof clamp work on the distal tapered spyderco blades

@@TTT-du6oj you can get other clamps that work better with spydi blades but you can still pull it off, the other ones better though, i do rec eventually getting the other clamps theres a bunch but you really only need one or maybe 2 others,

Ofcourse yes, if you want to to really big ones go with the K03 from TS prof

Awesome! Just ordered mine along with the suggested upgrade stones. Thanks !@@NeevesKnives

Atomas are great get q 140 or 400 ,600 and a 1200, 600 grit is a great toothy edge that is also fine enough for everything

Like those better than the Venevs?

@@MrEric0822 no the venev are better but they are also more expensive and take a bit of maintenance, the atoma require no maintenance and will give you a toothy edge just the same and are better for reprofiling. The venev are better because they can go to a polish and they last a very long time they don't wear out fast

@@NeevesKnives I kinda want to go the Venev route just for something different since I’ve had the KME diamond stones forever. I have a couple of the big Venev combo stones for hand sharpening and I like the feel and finish. If I went the Venev route, what would be a good set for progressing from reprofiling to finish? Thx Jerad!

@@MrEric0822 YEAH DEF IF YOU WANT THE BEST THEN VENEV IS THE WAY TO GO , I WOULD GET ONE ATOMA 140 FOR REPROFILING IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING WITH THICK GEOMETRY OR IF YOU WANT TO DO LOW ANGLES BECAUSE IT CUTS REALLY FAST THEN MOVE TO THE VENEV STONES

Matt over at Knife Krazy does some very fine demonstrations w/ the TSPROF...

i mostly use atoma and venev i shoulda linked them in description you can also check my neevesknives store in most recent vids

I love my Edge Pro Apex 4

I have the professional model and make quite a bit of money with it. Best sharpening system I've ever used.@@michaelvanbuskirk8845

I agree and also have an apex

But being able to move the blade left to right freely like that doesn't always work or allow you to maintain your angle. If your knife has a straight spine, this may work, but if your knife does not have a straight spine, as you move your knife left to right, your edge moves forward and backward along the table, especially near the belly and the tip, which necessarily changes your angle giving you inconsistent results. It's just the nature of the beast with these fixed angle systems. If the edge is straight across, it doesn't matter how long the blade is, a constant angle will be maintained. But if your edge is heavily curved where part of that edge curves towards the back of the sharpener, your stone necessarily has to rotate downward to reach that curve which obviously increases your sharpening angle making it more obtuse. Conversely, if you have a hawkbill style blade, as your blade curves away from the back of the sharpener (out towards you) , your stone necessarily has to lift up to meet that angle which obviously makes your edge more acute.

Let me offer some counterpoints to why I don't think that a flat table system like the Edge Pro is the best. To be clear, I don't think a clamped system is the best either, I think they all have their pros and cons. I hope some of you will read all I've wrote and perhaps offer some solutions to even one or two of my issues I laid out below, mainly the last two as they're the most aggravating. I currently own the Edge Pro Professional model and it's a great system in many ways and well-built, but here are some of the cons and frustrations I found with it and these are some of the reasons I am looking at adding a clamped system to complement it : 1) *A stone thickness compensator does not always come with the kit, you have to get aftermarket parts to get that functionality and they're a bit clunky to use.* They're not quick and easy to operate when setting the initial stone on any given knife and sharpening session, after that they're fine though. But you have to go through this annoyance every time you start a new knife or reset the blade stops to position the knife in a different spot on the table (if adjusted substantially). 2) *There is no good place to put your angle cube.* Measurements are close at best as there is no nice, large, flat surface to rest your angle cube on. What surfaces there are on the stone holding arm are small and non-magnetic so it's a fumbly experience trying to get an accurate angle measurement using one hand to hold the angle cube in place and another to both unscrew and loosen the lock to change the sharpening angle and then using that same hand to change the angle and then finally tightening the locking screw back up (while trying to hold the angle in place which is tricky!). Better hope you don't accidentally bump the angle while trying to hold it in place when you tighten the locking screw! It's super easy to mess your angle up! Frustrating! 3) *Changing stones is not as ergonomic and convenient as shown on this and other clamped systems.* This is because you can't hold the ball at the end of the stone arm in your hand and then use your pointer and middle finger to pull back on the front stone retainer while you use your other hand to swap out the stones. Changing stones is sort of the opposite procedure from what's shown here in that the front retainer nearest the ball is not spring loaded, the rear stone retainer is spring loaded instead so you have to push the stone backwards to unlock it. It doesn't sound so bad but when actually doing it you find it's not nearly as nice as the way the clamped systems do it and I often wish it matched the way shown on this clamped system. 4) *Certain knives with certain plunge grinds and blade profiles are difficult to sharpen on the Edge Pro.* Knives like the older generation (pre-CQI) PM2 are difficult because the blade nearly matches the width of the table and the tip is too short (from spine to edge) so that you can't keep it clear of the table to sharpen if trying to use any of the different blade stops Edge Pro offers and using the plunge grind to line up the blade left-to-right on the table (using the plunge grind as an additional side stop). It is the angled plunge grind on these early generation PM2s (and other knives which have its same issues) which are creating this problem. None of the blade guides, not even the small blade attachment, keeps the blade high enough and lifted off of the table enough to avoid running your stone into the table and allowing you to keep your stone aligned with the plunge grind. When you do get your blade set as best as you can, you cannot get your stone lined up with the plunge grind, you have to come at it at a pretty decent angle which does not leave a very pretty sharpening job. 5) *Finally, this is one of my biggest gripes, on knives which have a high saber grind and only a small bit of parallel flats near the spine of the blade, you cannot securely locate on those areas for sharpening.* If you try to locate on these small flats, when you apply downward pressure with the stone to sharpen the knife, you inevitably end up pushing the edge downward which rotates or lifts the spine upward completely destroying your sharpening angle. You instead have to use the larger flat area which is your primary bevel but that often kicks your spine high enough that you cannot press it against the blade stops on the table as it is now _*higher than the stop *_ so when you apply pressure from the sharpening stone to sharpen your knife, the blade slides around on the table (sometimes pushing your knife on top of your blade stop screwing up your angle!) because it's not locked in place. I've tried a variety of different guides or blade stops offered by Edge Pro from the small blade attachment to the standard large blade attachment, and even the 3-point sliding blade guide which is my favorite, and all of them exhibit this problem. Using the strong magnets in the table does not overcome this problem either. You really have to strain to hold the blade in place. It quickly makes you wish you could clamp the blade in place, hence the desire to get one of those systems.

Well it's much more expensive, in my review of the work sharp I talk about this system. The benefit is you can use any stones you want

Thanks. If money weren’t an issue which one would you give the nod to? I have several Venev 6” stones.

Yes and no, it's similar in the sense that it holds the blade while you sharpen, however you can use ant kind of stones you want with this, you are limited with the Wicked

@@NeevesKnives is that available?

Or, Matt - aka Knife Krazy!

@@davestelling Actually, yes.

Yes up to 7mm

@NeevesKnives welp there's another couple hundred down the drain. Appreciate your videos

@@sqhatr NOPROBLEM I HAVE EVERYTHING LINKDED IN DESCRIPTION BTW

Do you know who it was at the Atlanta blade show that produced that sharpening system you are mentioning? I'd love to look up and read more about it. It would be awesome if there were pictures or videos online somewhere! For the most part, I completely agree with what you are saying about these fixed angle systems not being able to maintain a constant angle but I think you had a couple points which were incorrect : As you move up the belly and towards the tip of the knife, I believe your sharpening angle would increase and thus become more obtuse since your stone is moving farther back towards the vertical guide rod making it closer to vertical, and thus making the edge more obtuse. Obviously, if your blade is straight, it does not matter how long your edge is, it could be a 72 inch long blade, even though your stone must stretch way farther to reach the outer ends of the blade, when viewed directly from the side, the stone is the same distance away from the rear vertical guide rod so your angle does not change. Think about attaching a string to the center of the peak of your roof. Assume that your roof is a unform upside down v-shape when viewed from the side. When you move that string straight down to the bottom edge of your roof you only need a certain length of string to reach it. Now when you move that string all the way out to the outer edges of the bottom edge of the roof, obviously you need a much longer length of string, but the angle or plane of the roof remains the same (like your edge would) despite one side of that triangle, your string, greatly lengthening. This is because the triangle should only be viewed directly from the side where you would not see that the string has lengthened, it would maintain its same distance from the peak of the roof, from front to back if you will. That roof or your blade could be 10 miles long, and you can see how your angle would not change just because the arm holding the stone gets dramatically longer in order to reach the outer edges *_so long as your edge in completely straight_* . As mentioned before, this holds true because the angle remains the same when viewed from the side. This, of course, no longer holds true when your edge isn't straight, but curved, since that edge moves towards or away from the back of the sharpener and vertical guide rod. Unfortunately that is the case with most knife blades! So, in the end, for curved blades, one's best course of action is to get the blade edge as straight across as possible to make the angles as even as possible OR one has to do the blade in sections. Both are far from an ideal solution though! In the end however, sometimes it feels like "much ado about nothing" as it's not entirely necessary to be super accurate and have our angles so perfect along the entire edge. Close enough is probably good enough for 99.99% of use cases and it can still look just fine being a bit off. Hand sharpening on stones or a belt sharpener can probably do a better job but they both require greater skill and patience.