Thanks Nico!

Thanks! Around 0.8 bars

@@crank3646 thanks for your reply, keep up the good work!

Yes my mistake I mean the rocker/valve cover. It is not a secret that my English is far away from fluent. If you look closer you will see that some of the bearings has black exposure and the one that I'm showing has gone after that and you can see the small cooper coloring.

@@crank3646 No worries, you're English is pretty decent actually, if a rather strong accent😉, I just wanted to be sure we were talking about the right item. I can't see any copper on bearing no3, perhaps the camera simply didn't capture that. I do see the blackness on the end bearing quite easily though. Amazing how good the rod bearings are!

@@crank3646 Oh btw, I forgot to say, I've noticed that for BMW's S65 engine that their later bearings (tin/aluminium ones) quite often get darkened too. But on at least some of them that is only light surface wear+discolouration. I and a few others have rubbed down some shells in the dark patch and it reveals that the babbitt (embedding/protective) layer actually isn't worn through (if you want to see photos of that, Google m3post forum and check out this thread - "Volunteers wanted for a simple experiment on your old tin/alu rod bearing(s)" , YT doesn't let us post full links 😛), that might be the case too with the bearings you saw in this engine. If so, then they would've had plenty more life, good to see them in such good shape at that mileage 🙂

You will not hear anything most of the time from the main bearings, you will hear only the conrod bearings. But most of the time when you hear the conrod bearings is because a main bearing have failed before that, which is causing the conrod oil channel to get blocked

@@crank3646 Thanks for the reply and your time and effort to share all of this with us!

It is more reliable

Assembly lube на лукас или на амсойл. Не ги смазвам.

If its up to me, I will never use them in this engines.

@@crank3646Why 😅 ? Its the original supplyer.

@@crank3646But i can’t find in it sizing with colors, just with millimeters.

Стандартна смяна 8-10к км. Не остава отворен кръга и маслото ще загрява по-бавно.

Ofc, but it will require a lot of fabrication

F10/11 are both really nice cars for me. but the N57 is a risky engine. M57 can endure a lot of terror and with a very nice power the chip can withstand a lot. I worked very similarly on Audi, the biggest work was about electricity and coding. I think the F10 with the M57 engine would be a top car.

Good luck with the game

313bhp or 299

@@crank3646 because of the bearings or the chains? or both?

@@blablablaqwd Design of the cylinder block + the crankshaft

My f11 N57 XDrive has 328000, also original chain and bearings. Before I bought it oil service interval used to be 20000 - 30000 km😵. I am aware it is pure luck or better to say - lottery to keep it running. Now it is time for big service, because I can hear little rattling sound when engine is cold, at 1500 rpm.

I have measured the run-out of the crankshaft, it was 0.005-0.01 mm. So it should be fine. I have seen much worst ones running.

@@crank3646 How much run-out do you consider still good?

@@TomoReso 0.01 - 0.03 mm most of the time is ok, more than that starts to make you nervous

Is n55 better choice than n57?

Still the efficiency btw N57 and the cummins engine is from the moon and back.

@@crank3646 absolutely. I shouldn’t even compare them in the real world…. Out of curiosity, why can’t the cranks be reground? My engine didn’t knock and the bearing didn’t get to spin, the crank doesn’t seem to have anything major on it. I was thinking of getting it polished if acceptable if not then grind it down to .25 but then again all I hear is they fail shortly after. Im in the middle of the woods at night without any light atm with all this stuff. Thank you!

@@HarlekinN57 Polishing will increase the clearance just a small amount, so probably will be acceptable. If it was me I was not going to do it, it makes almost no difference in real world. If bearing spun out, then the issue is the cylinder/crankshaft block tunnel not the crankshaft journals re-sizing.

@@crank3646 my bearing didn’t spin, but say it was to happen: could line boring get the block straight again along with honing cylinder walls and grinding the crank down to .25 bearings? Also, in my case that the bearings didn’t spin: would you suggest polishing the crank, or grinding it to .25 bearings. Or just buying a new one? Thank you!

@@HarlekinN57 Go with regular new ones