Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!

haha I didn't take it that far but I got a beefy engine haha Thanks for Watching!!!

I hear ya! That is so true! Thanks for Watching!!!

Thanks for Watching!!!

OOF man. I know the feeling. All that silvery color in the oil might just be from the con rod wearing on the crank journal. I would at the very least take it all apart and inspect the cylinder, crank journal and connecting rod. Without oil, a lot of wear occurs at the con rod and it will most likely be deeply scored although running it for 15 seconds only, that seems minor. At the very minimum you could get by with a new connecting rod and cleaning up the journal (aluminum being the softer metal, the con rod will start welding itself to the journal with high heat and no lubrication). If there is aluminum deposits on the journal it can be removed with muriatic acid and polishing it with very fine crocus cloth, making sure to polish it evenly on all sides. Then, measure the clearance on the new rod and rod cap on the old crank journal with Plasti-Gauge to make sure it is still within factory specifications. Clean everything up, put it back together, add oil and you should be back in business. Taryl Fixes All has a decent 1hr+ video on refurbishing a 5 HP Briggs flathead and covers most if not everything I said.

if you the engine is screwed, if these are like tecumseh dual shaft engines, you should be able to get another 5hp engine single pto engine in good condition, and swap the cam and the rear cover from the old dual pto motor.

Really rare for a tiller engine to be trashed because they get used very little about an hour per year to till a garden, at least by a homeowner. If they belong to a commercial business they might be well worn. Quite a few I have run across just needed a cleanup...AND to restore compression a valve job and proper valve clearance. Check that.

there are several part #'s that will work but the one i went with is #492088 heads up it is really hard to find, there may be used ones on ebay that would be a better choice and easier to find. Thanks for Watching!

Your welcome. Yep, and alot of I/C blocks had dual bearings too. I started to build a predator for it, but i really like the old flatheads. I heard that!!! Thanks for Watching!

My raptor 3 is dual bearing as well

@@ackleyengineering5413 no it's not dual ball bearing. Only r4s were dual ball bearing.

@@cravenmoorehead5636 mine is most definitely a raptor 3 and is dual bearing. Did they make early 4s with 3 cover and serial #?

One should always do the measuring. I put new standard rings in a kool bore tiller engine that had decent compression but smoked. The piston was minus a bit of chrome but the cylinder was withing 5 thou, Recall reading that with that amount of wear a set of std chrome rings was all that was required. Unfortunately chrome rings could not be had. Used regular rings and the smoking cleared up in an hour our 2 of use.

If its aluminum bore your supposed to use chrome rings, but I have heard of some using the standard cast iron rings. chrome is recommended. I'm actually going to be doing some experimenting at some point with this. You can still get chrome rings as well, I've been buying from mfgsupply or off of ebay. Thanks for Watching!!!

Very true. I've been wanting to try regular rings in a couple alum. bore engines I have, just to see if it will work or not. I wanted to try a oversize piston too, but can't get a plated oversize piston so it probably will seize up with a regular piston. Thanks for Watching!!!

fnaguitarplayer9 about 3 years ago when I was working on my engine I could not source chrome rings for it. NOS can come and go, 3rd party parts can too.

I made a lengthy video series on this topic that you probably wouldn't be interested in sitting through, but there is a lot that goes into building a charger like you describe and having it work properly. The very first thing I would suggest is to NOT use a 140A single wire alternator. What alternator chassis are you planning to use? The 10si simply will not work for your application for example. A 27si works great I found but only does 80A (for the 100A model). For 80A you will need about 200cc of torque - for 140A you will need in the low 300's. This is assuming you run a standard 3600RPM engine which would be best for reliability. The 2nd main advice I would give is to size the pulleys to either be direct drive or close to 1:1 in ratio for reasons I describe in my video series. This is optimal for typical automotive alternators and typical small engines that you want to run at 3000 or so RPM. In short, my advice is to use a 27si alternator with a low 200's cc engine (Honda GX or Briggs IC or Vanguard would be good choices) with a 1:1 drive ratio. This will be a great setup that will last you a long time and be reliable in all weather, load conditions, and use cases. But it won't do is 140A continuous - and neither will most any alternator that claims 140A unless it is a very expensive one designed for busses, OTR semi trucks, etc, and many of those are 24V.

Nice score. They're good for classic minibikes or even a newly made classic like an Azusa.

@@Hjerte_Verke I scored a seemingly much better engine... someone tossed a predator 420 because it blew an oil seal.. seems to run fine, barring the only runs on choke issue..

​@@danielauen7790I scored similar on my property, 5HP I/C on a tiller, still tills haha(looks to be mid 1960s and left in the field for at least 10 years). Once the tiller tines finally give up I will be rebuilding it for a go cart!

I hear ya! I'd love to see it, if you could make a video on here and link it to me that would be the best way. Thanks for Watching!!!

Thanks Frank, I may have to consult you on a few things!

u can have both? there is no LAW... yet abt owning 2 of them. to compare and contrast them. "the other one" has the same cc's 212... now 225cc but more HP cuz the OHV head flows better than the L head. and hot rod parts a plenty off e bay and other sources for ..."the other one". just dont let any of ur BRIGGS brothers see u with..."the other one" ... when u go... DARKSIDE. the "other one" 6.5 hp at 3600 rpm's... but put some bigger springs/ CM 265" lift cam, port the head, billet rod, PVL flywheel and send it to 7000 RPM's... 10...12.. hp. watch U tube vid Gx 200... and what it does at speed... 15 ft/lbs 4500 to 5000.... 15 HP from 6500 to end of test at 6900... with other carb/intake/air filter header

I love Bob's forums, the knowledge there is top tier.