I love how many steps it takes to start the car lol Only you can just get in it and crank it up . Old cars have so much character

They make a vapor lock fuel filter with the bypass built in that will help clean up all the extra hoses/fittings

fan shroud, save your knuckles. My '63 Nova Wagon has a 283, but I remember painting the tips of my fan blades white, just so I could see where not to put my knuckles, it really does help. This set up you have is great!! She sounds and looks great~

It's funny. I've always ditched the return lines on vehicles with carburetors with mechanical fuel pumps. Did for many years with many cars. Always thought the return line on cars with mechanical pumps was some sort of gimmick. Only had one vehicle develop the vapor lock issues you mentioned, and sure enough, putting an old 2-output fuel filter on it and using the fuel return line fixed it. Didn't click in my head until I watched your video, though. Thank you. Saves me from messing with carburetor spacers and junk.

Good that you were able to sort the fuel issues out & i love the old school, no airs & graces look of your motor ; )

OMG!!!!!! THANK YOUUUUU U JUST FIXED ALL MY PROBLEMS!!! OTHER THAN NEEDING A NEW RAD MY FUEL WAS VAPOR LOCKING 5.9 V8 AMC

This is perfect! Exactly the idea I had in mind for setting up a return line for my new build to prevent vapor lock this summer. I wanted to know what size hole to use as a restriction, I thought it would need to be bigger but this is great info! I had the same idea, slip a round piece of metal, going to use brass, into the return hose up at the T near the carb. Lucky for me I did a quick search and this video was the first one that popped up and it has exactly the info I need! Awesum! Nice build BTW! I'm a retired life long auto tech, I started twisting wrenches when carbs were still the norm and fuel injection was rare, I just love the old school carb. So many have asked why I don't got with injected, I just smile, cause it works! And it works very well if you know what your doing. Also picked up a AEM Air/Fuel Ratio gauge kit so I'll have it to help me jet the new carb I have coming. I bought an 85 GMC S15 truck with the 2.8 v6 which I rebuiltd with some goodies, going to run the V6 just for fun for a couple years then do an old school small block V* swap into the truck, with the lopy cam I have it it she turns heads and a lot of people ask me if it's a V8 ;-) Here's a short vid of the first run after rebuild last summer. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g56Re6lkq6qnc2g.html

Thanks for making this video, i just did a carb conversion on my third-gen Firebird and this video looks like it will help one of the problems ive been having.

Well I ran a big Holly on my last Ford 460 and I suffered with vapor lock all the time. But I never realized what it was or why it was happening. I had an electric fuel pump with no return line which was part of the problem. And another video pointed out that I could get a vapor/ fuel separator filter. Between the other video and what you shared here I think I solved the problem. Thank you for making this video!

Hey thunderhead thanks for the heads up for the return line. It makes sense, I know now what cooked my Holley blue pump.

I added a return line to my 54 Nash when I dropped a 350sbc in it. Instead of the orifice, I installed a brass needle valve. That allowed me to fine adjust the flow and the fuel pressure.

Good luck on your internship. I like your video's. I like the 289 Engine. I really like the way it sounds just like I remember when my Dads' 2nd cousin purchased the 1st Year Mustang 2+2 Fastback awesome car 1967 with rear window louver cover.

Great idea! The sound of that 289 is music to my ears! Thanks for the video!

I like the emergency repair that you came up with. Especially when you're pretty far from home and you've got to come up with a working solution. This shows me that you're a good man who knows what he's doing, even when the world sucks around you. Back before an ethanol neutralizing fuel additive was easily available, I had that "Blue" pump and the returnless "dead head" regulator set up. That was the noisiest and most problematic POS that I ever wasted my money on. The ethanol, in the gasoline, even at 10% per volume was enough to corrode all of the internal aluminum workings of that pump. This was because my Mustang sat up in high humidity Florida for 2 weeks. I'm sure glad that I decided to put the mechanical fuel pump's eccentric back on the cam timing gear when I went to the electric pump. Even though I wasn't going to use it, I recommend that a one piece type eccentric gets installed, "just in case", you get sick of the electric pump's noise and/or the reliability problems that go with it. I recommend the one piece eccentric, available from Ford Racing, versus the generally available, wider two piece because there's a chance that the two piece, being wider, will rub on the inside of the timing chain cover. As for keeping the fuel as cool as possible, I have a 1/8" to 3/32" phenolic spacer mounted between the engine block and the mechanical fuel pump, a 5/16" thick fiber base plate between the carb and my aluminum intake manifold and finally the exhaust heat riser ports are blocked at the intake mfd. gasket.

Hey guy - excellent video. I did the same thing. Installed a brass tee, but much closer to the carb inlet. Basically I've got about 4 inches of brass going into the carb inlet, and in front of that is the regulator (set at 4-1/2 pounds). On the inlet of the regulator is a tee, which has a 3/32" ( 90-thousandths ) hole drilled in a bolt stuffed in a short section of hose (almost all of this is 3/8 nickel-copper hard-line). That runs back and tee's into the mechanical fuel pump's vapor return line to the tank (which is 1/4" stainless steel - about 20+ feet back to the tank). Anyway, the stock (Carter M6622 is a reproduction of the OE pump on my car) fuel pump puts out about 7 pounds at idle, 8-1/2 or better at 1,500+ RPM. Running a mildly hopped up 500 Cadillac big block with an 800 CFM Edelbrock carb (took quite a bit of tuning to dial that carb in), and it maintains about 3-1/2 to 4 pounds at idle (lopey 750 RPM idle with a respectable street camshaft), and 4-1/2 pounds at about 1,100 RPM and above. Car never starves for fuel. I think that's the key here - you've gotta put the return tee *before* the regulator, and then put the regulator just a few inches from the carb. That'll mitigate any problems you were having with starving for fuel by putting the return tee after the regulator.

I just installed a fuel return line on my 65 bigblock Corvette. My plumbing was much simpler than yours but accomplishes the same thing. I have the same Holley non-return regulator and the same fuel log as you. I simply installed a 1/'4" hose barb in the port on the fuel log where a pressure gauge normally goes. I then drilled a .060" hole (actually 1/16" because that is the closest size I had) into a 1/4" nylon screw and inserted that into the rubber return line. Even though I have a mechanical pump fuel pressure was unaffected, probably because, unregulated, my pump was putting out 11 psi. The first thing I noticed was that the needle on my mechanical fuel pressure gauge is now rock steady whereas before it bounced around wildly at idle.

Awesome man. Just ran a return line on my 59' F100. Fuel would boil on days above 90 and it would die while idling. Now runs like a champ.

Really enjoy all your vids mate, doing a return line atm using my existing dead head regulator, what size restrictor hole would you recommend ?

Good video and beautiful Ford.

My dad bought a 67 Shelby GT 500 used in 1969 when he returned from Vietnam. Well his brother ( my uncle ) was hit broadside in the Shelby and the car was Totalled. My dad bought it back from the insurance co for $55 dollars and took some of the insurance money and bought a 1965 Galaxie 500 Convertible. 390 / 4 speed car. Well he took the 428 PI with dual 4 barrels and the 4 speed out of the Shelby GT500 and swapped it into the Galaxie. 50 years later he still has the Galaxie 500. Convertible which we call the Galaxie GT 500 and that 428 dual quad 4 speed shelby running gear . The car still has less than 50 k original miles and the running gear even less. Fun car

Do you run or recommend running a regulator with a mechanical pump?

What symptoms were you having? Wondering if this is what's happening with my 63 impala . Under load itll sputter and sometimes at red lights and also seeing steam in my carb when turned off .. confused as to how to run a line into my stock gas tank . Is there a fitting on it ?

Did you run a line down in to the bottom of the take from the return so it stays submerged?

How did you have your vacuum gauge hooked up, and what brand. Is it a good idea to have one going all the time? Thanks.

Lol love the cup holder!!!

Thanks for this. helped explain a few things I needed help on

Great video! (Highly recommend a fan shroud, both for safety and efficiency)

Sweet man thanks for the tip. Man she sounds good

How do you like the performer 2121 intake compared to the weiand intake? also does the spacer improve torque or top end power?

I have a stock 350 with a 1405 edelbrock carb. I insulated the fuel line from the fuel pump up, added a edelbrock insulator gasket bottom of carb, put on a holley fuel pressure regulator set to 5 psi and if i crank it after 20-30 mins it takes a long long long crank to startup still, but if i hold slight pressure on the gas pedal it fires right up. Also if i keep the hood up after 20-30mins it fires right up also. Any help will be much appreciated, been fighting this battle for a long time now. Thanks

Wow nice sound when you start car. I see this is about 5 years ago. I am having vapor lock issues on my 64 impala. I just got done watching a video in glass fuel filters installed in or around the engine. Becareful with that. Hope it hasn't happened yet. If that glass breaks, fuel will go everywhere and ignite. Secure that thang!!! Hehehee anyways hope all is good with your car and stay safe these days.

thats a great idea to use a bolt with a orifice hole as a restriction. Im going to do a similar set up. What size drill bit did you use? 1/16" hole down the center of a 3/8" bolt? i was thinking of using 3/8" all thread or 3/8" bar stock to avoid trying to stick a bolt head in a rubber hose.

I would suggest putting a fan shroud on it!!!

Love the video. I think I'll try this on my 400m.

what are your thoughts on having the returns into the top of your tank? i think it promotes foaming in the fuel as opposed to entry below the fuel level...

i've got a 78 f150 with a 351m still running mech. fuel pump and lately i've been getting alot of vapor lock and boiling fuel. so im going to put an elec. fuel pump on. would i drill a hole in my oem tank for the return fuel line? also does the electric fuel pump need to be right next to the tank? my part store called it a pusher pump thank you

Very cool video, I know you pushed this a long time ago but my tank does not have a return ability on my 1965 Dodge Cornett. Do you know if the return is on the top of the tank or the side? I need to put a way to return on my tank. Any help would be much appreciated thanks

Genius man, absolutely awesome.

huge, what a nice car mister

If you make the breather line into the return line doesn’t the fuel tank lose the ability to vent? I’m trying to find a way to make this work with my stock tank that has the main inlet and outlet ports and one breather vent up top. Also, does the return line need to be plumbed to the bottom of the tank to stay submerged at all times? Any help would be appreciated

Great suggestion. But I'm nipple deep in trying to solve same problem. Holley electric pump at 7 psi feeding Edelbrock AVS on stock L31 3/4 ton crate engine with Air Gap manifold. 2" phenolic spacer between carb and manifold. After idling for 11 minutes, fuel pressure drops to zero, manifold at 140 degrees, spacer at 94 degrees, and carb bowls at 120 - enough to boil ethanol blend fuel. Carb is soaking heat from radiator air. Even if I chilled inlet fuel with Kool Kan, or installed a bypass, fuel would still percolate in bowls. I see 3 options: but non-ethanol fuel, shaker hood style scoop to isolate entire carb from engine compartment, wrap carb in copper tubing and circulate water(not engine water) through tubing. Any help out there?

I'm late to the party but, hopefully you still look at these old videos? When installing the bolt with the . 60 drill hole. Is this a regular thread bolt? With the bolt head removed? Sorry if this question sounds lame, but, I am going to do the same setup on my 73 Bronco.

I've never had any issues with my galaxie, still has the mechanical pump and I don't run any sort of return, it's difficult to rig one up with a stock tank. Takes a little bit to crank over when its been running and when it's hot outside but it always fires right up after a couple pumps. But it does overheat, possible that my headgasket blew but I don't seem to lose any coolant and theres nothing in my oil.

I've got a 67 ltd I'm in process of getting fully road ready

You made a great video about how to start a car that has vapor lock by holding your foot down on the gas then turning on. Just curious why that wasn't the solution for this vapor lock issue. Also if you have electronic pump why do you need to pump the gas to start it? Trying to learn, new at old cars

What year and car is the hood scoop off of on your 65 galaxie?? Looks great

Great Idea. Very easy fix.

My 73 Econoline had a factory return setup, I removed it, the line was leaking on me, but I believe I might want to add it back as I am having issues, not sure if it's due to sediment in the tank or vapor locking, no sock on the pickup tube, my last pump had debris in it, this pump went out less than 30 miles, well, quit running, can drive places, just can't drive home, think it could be hot, but it's October.\

Weird question, but why run a full size return line hose if it is restricted down to a .060 hole? I am not getting pressure on my F100 360FE. I have the bypass regulator set up with the a 3/8" fuel supply inlet, one outlet goes to a gauge then supply feed for carb, and the other outlet is a return line sized the same as the supply 3/8". I am getting good pressure at pump, but no pressure at the gauge/supply line. Im assuming that i need to add in a restrictor sized .040 - .060 to create enough back pressure to pressurize the gauge/supply outlet of the regulator?

You had me at Layla!

Luke, so you can't run a fuel regulator with fuel tank return on a mechanical fuel pump?

Can you drill a larger hole (ex. 5/32") in bolt used in the return line? 1/16 (.060) is pretty small and you stand a good chance of breaking the drill bit, like I have in the past.

Hey Luke on the fuel regulator, you have it after the carb inlets. Does this only control the regulated pressure to the return line? Do you have another fuel regulator on the inlet side before the carburetor as well?

Nice work !!! i know all about hot weather im in Ft.Lauderdale its hot all year round,im gona start with a phenolic spacer this week and see were it leads me,the car started acting up this weekend im gona have to rebuild the holley altogether its spilling fuel out the primary vent tube,not good !!! its about time it gets a rebuild anyway.

Could you have gone with a higher flow mechanical pump to create more pressure then return?

How did you come up with the formula for a 0.060 hole in the bolt?

Could you demonstrate how you install a return line

Im impressed already lol 1400 miles

Hello, I have a 1973 Plymouth Scamp that has bubbles in the fuel filter, sometimes the fuel drops out. I changed out the fuel pump, fuel filter and it still does this. It recently started to back fire when I go up hill's. Does any body know what is wrong with my car?

Aluminum foil around the fuel lines is a quick fix 😂💯

@Thunderhead289 Carb swapping my 87’ GT from the speed density efi it has. I’ve built a whole new motor, I’m just figuring out what I want to do for fuel system. I’m leaning towards mechanical fuel pump as I’m not an electrical genius. Should I run a return line? Or should I run a switched electric low pressure external ? Let me know if possible, thanks man.

I have a sumped tank. I need this set up. But will it work if my return line is at the bottom of the tank? As it is sumped and both feed and return are at botttom ,.

I have a question why did you Not just use the regulators extra outlet to run a return line instead of all that plumbing you got going on it would be much cleaner looking, I did burn up a Holley blue pump and plan to get another and do kind of what you did but I'm going to use the extra outlet on the regulator and come up with a restrictor of 60 thousands or is 60 thousands still a good number?

Oh, here's one video.... Right on. Thx

Hey buddy, what pump are you using? i have gone through 3 already and i cant get over 4psl .

i know you said that I would need a 3 port mechanical. i have a canister line i can tap into. i would vapor lock but turn on the electric to push it through in about a few miles or so

Glass filters extremely dangerous. I had one come apart and burn my engine up

Good morning. Thanks very much for your time and assistance. I have a fuel pressure regulator installed now ... set at 8psi. I have a 160 degree thermostat, and my temp stays at 190 on super hot summer day in traffic. Can a camshaft cause a motor to run RICH at times? 🤔

I wish you lived close to charlotte nc I have a 1965 galaxie that my grandpa had I saved it from the field it needs a little TLC

I realize this is an older video, but my question is related to the subject. I have a 1959 GMC 150 with a 1972 Chevy 350 with a 2 Barrel Holley 4412 carburetor. I recently got it running after it sat for about 10 years and put a new fuel pump and a brand new Holley 4412 on it (It had a 4412 on it before, so I just stuck a brand new one on it since I had one on the shelf.) It started and ran really well. I pulled it out of the shed it was sitting in and idled it up towards the shop. I stopped it in front of the shop and let it idle for a good 15 minutes then shut it off to go get lunch. I came back and started it and decided to drive it to my dad's place which is about a 1/4 mile away. It ran really good until I pulled it into the driveway and let it idle to let my dad check it out. As it was sitting there it started to run kind of rough and died. I jumped back in to start it and it wouldn't even try and start. So I pushed it into his shed for the night and didn't come back to it for a couple weeks. When I got the time to look at it again, I thought I would get in and try to start it just for shit's and giggles. It started right up with the temp outside being 50 or so degrees. It sat there and idled like a champ for a good 5 minutes. Then I shut it off and restarted it, it took right off. I let it idle for another 5 or so minutes and shut off then left. Could my issue be vapor lock since it started right up after the motor being completely cooled down? I think I can firmly disregard it being a carb or fuel pump issue since they are both brand new. What are your thoughts? If you do think it's vapor lock how could I go about remedying or fixing it without installing an electric fuel pump? I want to keep this as mechanical as possible. Any tips or suggestions would be great!

Dear thunderhead289 i hope you can answer my question please must the 60 thou drilled out bolt be a certain length or not thank you as in creasing then length can increase thr resistance creating more back pressure or not?? Thank you agin for the videos

Good job on he video Thunderhead289, I have watched a few of your's I'm having vapor lock Issues with my 72 Monte Carlo with a 350 and a Edelbrock carb (hate that carb) running the mechanical fuel pump but I'm in Fl. and it gets hot you can see the fuel pressure drop to around 3 psi when the motor get to like 180/190F (I added and reg. and gauge) just to watch it.... I can see the fuel boiling in my glass fuel filter going to carb. I bought an electric Pump from Carter one of their nice ones and another fuel pressure regulator from Jegs that has a built in return but the return in the reg. is the same size as the Inlet at 3/8" I was going to install the whole system but saw this video. My Question: Should I restrict that return on the regulator? Also you have any experience with Edelbrock's? after I shut down the car and it's hot I have to crank and crank to get it to start again... when cold it starts right away, unless I let it sit for a week then I have to crank and crank, I put a phenolic carb spacer but has not helped ....

Doesnt fuel line fight vapor lock?

sounds gooooood

My 70 dodge coronet run very hot after 10 miles , the block gets so hot you can't even touch , then I have wait over 20 to 30 minutes to start the car. Should I change to aluminum radiator ? Or should I do what you did in this video? Thanks

I have a mechanical fuel pump that puts out around 9 psi. Gonna try basically the same idea as this and see how it goes. I figure I can just bleed off a couple PSI

But there is still quite a bit of "deadhead" hose between the fuel return plumbing and the carburetor, plus there is all the fuel in the carburetor reservoir that is subjected to the heat, and is not cooled by fresh fuel circulation. The proper set up is one where the carburetor itself was designed and built with a fuel return line that also already has a restriction built into the line to provide enough fuel back pressure. Like the carburetor i have in my Suzuki Carry.

I really enjoy your carb videos. I have learned a lot from them. I want to add a return/bypass line to my car by using the vacant port on my existing Holley regulator (12-840). I plan to add a 0.060" in-line restrictor like you did on your set-up. Do you see any problems with using the 2nd regulator output port? I really don't want to buy a new regulator with a bypass port.

Great Video 👍 you might wanna switch up to an Electric fan, Awesome car.

Thanks again.

I put the return line on it .it did not change anything.after i drive about an hour i noticed my squierter does not spray clean shot of fuel.i used pour gasoline.same thing.holley shield same thing.the man on the phone from holley sounded like Bruce lee.and talk about return straw.i have a vented gas cap with clear filter and i approve theres is no air in the clear filter.so the problem is rough idle and hesitation going on in hot days.i dont trust some of holley representaives anymore

Thanks again. I don't have any pressure creep without a fuel return line, thank God ... however, my Carter electric fuel pump is @ 9-INCHES HIGHER than my Regal's gas tank. WOW! I had no clue this was wrong for over 4 years until now. I thank you ADAMANTLY. I realized in the garage a few minutes ago (after watching your 1st video), that I have never got on the throttle in the past like I have been doing a few months ago ... which explains WHY I am having/noticing the engine shut off issues now. I am going to lower the Carter pump first, then see if that stops the cut off AFTER I take my foot off the gas pedal following a 3200-rpm launch/acceleration test. Can I run a 3/8-inch fuel return line in conjunction with my current 1/2-inch feed line like yours in this video ... WITH BOTH the mechanical pump & electric pumps?

Was that a Summit fuel pressure regulator on the fender well? Also, what do you use to seal threads on all those fittings?

You can buy a turbo 4an oil feed restrictor with the small orifice and add it to your return line.

Sum of the Chryslers had fuel return lines from factory

👍

i still have a little bit of confusion on the install. 390 and I have a electronic pump but it runs off mechanical

I'm assuming you're a mechanical engineer? Recently I went to a newer small block in my chevy that had no spot for a mechanical. My truck originally had a return even with the mechanical. I had vapor lock issue when I would park at the local quickstop and attempt to open the secondaries leaving only to sputter. Now my fuel stays nice and cool at idle and no more vapor lock. I'm a forest engineer so I only had one class on fluid mechanics.

What size drill bit did you use in that Bolt between the hoses

Yea, Just makes sense.

What afr gauge are you running. Never thought about running one until I seen your video

why not used the mecanichal pump? 🤔

Stupid question can you run mechanical fuel pump and an electric pumps at the same time. Kinda of having an eletric pump to prime the carb and then run off the mechanical pump after she is running

Honest question... If the return has restriction why did you need to put the bolt in the line.?

That steering wheel belongs to heavy duty F series truck. 👍

oh please help me on my 95 pathfinder v6 2wheel drive iv replaced ever thing but it won't take gas it has small back fires an one get up speed an also jerks please please help me check for problem I'm a 65 yr old woman an can't find anyone to help me .

Would this setup work with a mechanical fuel pump?

Car sounds good!

Virginia?? Im in roanoke with the same problem haha

Just a few weeks ago I wasn't even aware of vapor lock and have been suspecting a defective fuel pump that couldn't get the fuel to the carb. My car stalled, almost got towed and charged $100 on the road, luckily we managed to go off to safe parking by pouring fuel on the carb. But then I learned about this it turned out that it was actually my new radiator hose that caused my problems, that was replaced from an old cracked fabric braided hose with a new shiny un-braided hose. Never thought that fabric braiding was so important. XD