Sounds awesome! Share some photos back my way when you get the chance :P

Cannot agree more, these where the first stls I ever paid money for and it was really worth it.

⁠for the hammer part on the lockplate, can I use cardboard?

This project happens when you spend the whole pandemic watching Forgotten Weapons and Steve's canned food adventures

Nice.

The lock mechanism by itself is free over here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4913586

Those should be 60mm

You may need to calibrate the flow of your material on your printer if your parts won't fit or are too loose. teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#flow

I'm also having issues with this. Even metal M5 screws pull right out of some of the holes. Printing the screws scaled 105% in the diameter (not length) seems to help, but not for all. And my printer is properly calibrated.

@@mrjackson2k Im with you, my extrusion width is properly calibrated as are my motors. even increasing flow rate or size doesnt fix them all.

I think I've already shared the updates with the commenters here, anyone else reading this and having the same problem, please reach out to me on Etsy.

PETG is actually for the better flex properties, the durability is not as relevant - it's heaps of plastic with heaps of structure, PETG or no. If you want to drop proof it or something, start with the lock assembly and the belt clip, they aren't chunky like the barrel/butt so they'll fly off if dropped. The whole thing is 15% infill, I honestly did not play with this enough for this version. That said it's been plenty durable with that setting, there are so many internal walls/perimeters the infill is not as important. I know it's tempting, but don't go crazy on the dart sled durability - the heavier it is, the worse this performs.

Apologies - the files have since been updated to more or less rely on real screws (printed screws have had really variable results, working well for others and not working at all elsewhere). If you are really determined to use the printed screws, bump them up to 110% size or so

@@carnyrex1872 Thank you for the quick reply, the print is going perfectly fine so far with all the pieces otherwise, its a really great design! I just ordered a pack of m5 screws. Also what do you think about threaded inserts? Those would make the threads alot more sturdy and they are also really cheap to get.

@@nils1966 Beside the lock plate threads being a tad delicate because they are so thin, otherwise not many places need it. The V2 of this is built from the ground up for metal screws (check out my other vids), and I'm slowly adding slots for hex nuts where necessary. To be honest my goal was always the bare minimum hardware (hence the printed screws, as much as that was ambitious), so it felt off to add something else for people to get - as 3D printed nerf blasters go, this is among the simplest (at least as far as sourcing hardware!) and I'd like to keep it that way.

I have a long list of to-dos, but that is up there.

@@carnyrex1872 Outstanding. I have purchased the files for this already from your Etsy....look forward to the Wheellock Ver should you get there

What Is a Wheelock?

@@ScorbunnyProductionsYT A type of blackpowder firing mechanism. A Flintlock...like this design here that @Carny Rex has made is fired by flint hinting a plat, and then droping sparks in to a pan that holds a primer charge. A Wheellock did it by not STRIKING a flint but by a spring powered spinning wheel. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheellock

Yes, although you could also use real ones.

Should be just under 48 hours. It's heaps of filament.

So I should wait for my filament shipment to come, I have very little filament left

​@@loading...9421 It's got 60+ parts, so you could start printing the internals or smaller pieces first. I don't think there is a hobby sized printer that could do this in one go.

Ok, one last thing. On etsy I saw there was scotch tape on your printer bed, I'm new to 3d printing so if you don't mind me asking what does that do. I've just never seen that before

@@loading...9421 that's blue painter's tape, and it's one of the ways people go about ensuring proper bed adhesion for the first couple of layers, which is crucial to getting a good print. Depending on the type of printer you have, the type of bed surface, and the type of filament, you may or may not need it. Other common approaches are to have a special surface (like "Build-Tak") or to use a glass bed and spray it down with cheap hair spray (has to be the cheap stuff). Hope that helps!

All You might Need To Do Is Add A Stock And Make The Barrel Longer