Q&A with Janja Garnbret

Рет қаралды 78,519

2 жыл бұрын

This week Louis had the chance to sit down and chat with the Queen of climbing herself! We hope you enjoy listening to them talk about Janja's inspirations, perfectionism in climbing, performing under pressure and how she prepares for her competitions.
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Пікірлер: 121

@stinkytofufu 2 жыл бұрын

You’re such a good interviewer and great listener! I love this interview with Janja :) thanks so much!

@TimFromYellow 2 жыл бұрын

Yes, we already know Louis has a great attitude but I agree, his interview style is very good (and with the world's greatest opposite from you...

@kkhchannel4813 2 жыл бұрын

Louis is an excellent interviewer! He's got interesting questions, formulates and articulates them well, listen to Janja's answer and responds just the right amount from his personal thoughts, summarizes Janja's answer; fluid and natural transitions in between topics His interview is like his climbing, very fluid and flowy. Both enjoyable to watch.

@aracanthe7251 2 жыл бұрын

No way! Janja in person with Louis, crazy. Finally feels like pandemic is slightly away (wished we saw some climbing with the both of you). And really good interview / interviewer, it felt really natural and it went a bit more in depth than most interviews.

@danielparsons2859 8 ай бұрын

She is the best ambassador for the sport of climbing. I'm massive fan. Inspiring and clearly the best as she proved again in the 23 world championships.

@aliyaclare 2 жыл бұрын

Great questions that took Janja deeper than I've seen her in other interviews. Well done, Louis and thank you, Janja!

@dkrasne 2 жыл бұрын

Exactly what I was thinking! Such a fabulous interview!

@giopilli1 2 жыл бұрын

Having a international competition set for both male and female in the same category would be such a ground breaking event for sport in general - and with the correct fair setting it would full of surprises…

@msice1000 2 жыл бұрын

i dont think so . Man would dominate like in every other sport thats why the sport for women and man are separated . Maybe if they would do like a duo tournament (women and man are in a pair but they climb different boulders and then they summarize the points) or partner boulders that would actually be interesting and fair

@zacharylaschober 2 жыл бұрын

@@msice1000 the thing with climbing, as indicated above, is the sport has a strong emphasis on skill plus a host of variations in style to overcome sequences. Setting has evolved from simply hard pulling and there is no reason not to try and figure out how to challenge top competitors across the field. Maybe would mean the training focus of the field shifts or how we score or how we plan competitions and similar shift to find the best athletes rather than the best athletes through a historically male filter.

@skyex5047 2 жыл бұрын

@@msice1000 Let me guess, you don't climb.

@msice1000 2 жыл бұрын

@@zacharylaschober nah I just think it's unnecessary woke culture and u don't need it. It's like in every sport women and men are divided cause it wouldn't be fair for women to compete with man it's just simple biology. You can see how this workouts with those transgender athletes.

@neterchance4708 2 жыл бұрын

@@skyex5047 do you?

@nataliesoutlet 2 жыл бұрын

Outstanding ✨I’m such a fan girl! Love this!!

@rickytrockclimbing2935 2 жыл бұрын

9 million subs and I’m your first like 😂 you climb?

@cxtpace 13 күн бұрын

this is probably an interview that will become a go-to reference to most climbing training workshops in all climbing history. thanks for producing this interview! very valuable!

@tillkirsch4732 Жыл бұрын

Louis is such a lovely person, I always smile when I see him. And the interview with Janja was so nice! Thanks a lot.

@CatalystClimbing Жыл бұрын

They are two amazing people aren't they!! Glad you enjoyed it!

@Robstar0 6 күн бұрын

I had no idea I was looking at an old interview and I was so confused about Paris being two years away 😂 well, it's almost here now!

@conserve_climber 2 жыл бұрын

She seems impervious to the pressure…when you see her climb she genuinely looks like she’s enjoying the process/performance

@Belazoth. 2 жыл бұрын

Excellent interview Louis! And thanks to Janja for doing this.

@Jagknorr 2 жыл бұрын

As a dude, I also wish for Janja to compete against the guys and kick their asses. It would be great fun and definitely would close that mindset gap of a gender being able to do something another can’t. Theres of course physical differences between genders but rock climbing is such a unique sport that the person/body doesn’t have to be so specific to succeed. I think it would just be rad. 😁 Keep on crushing, Janja, and hopefully we see that day.

@joeytmandude 2 жыл бұрын

Agreed, it'd be really interesting for viewers since we'd see more variation in betas

@MrCmon113 Жыл бұрын

You're severely delusional. I mean that seriously. Rock climbing is one of the sports restricting your body type the most. You need to have long limbs and be very light and strong. In golf people of different body shapes could become the best, in rock climbing definitely not. You also seem to be unaware of the huge gap between the best women and the best men. It's not even close. Janja herself admits that she couldn't even do a lot of the routes the guys are doing at all.

@Jagknorr Жыл бұрын

@@MrCmon113 uuuh, do you even rock climb? Body type really doesn’t matter. You do have to be relatively light and strong to get the super hard stuff, but body type in general….no. Ai Mori is like 5ft tall and looks frail as a child. She climbs things in the most ridiculous way to make the problem fit her body. And she succeeds. (she beat Janja - twice i think? Or at least gold twice back to back this year). You can make problems fit you even if they don’t naturally fit you. Sometimes it can be a cockblocker on outdoor stuff but at the same time outdoors offers maaaaany more possibilities than specifically set indoors stuff. Look up Laura Rogora crimping absolutely tiny holds that the bigger guys don’t even acknowledge as holds. Difference between the best mens and women climbing - outdoors - yes theres a gap. But not as big as you make it seem. Again, look up Laura Rogora. Indoors the setting can be made tricky in a variety of ways other than just raw strength…and comps arnt too often set to pure raw strength anymore. Its more dynamic and balance stuff and being uncomfortable on weird holds. Strength IS needed but not in a have-it-and-you-automatically-win kind of way. Theres sooo many other elements to climbing. But yeah a route setter would definitely struggle to make a route roughly equal difficulty between a 5’ climber and a 6.5’ climber with +index. I do agree with you there 😁

@KeppyKep Жыл бұрын

This was a PHENOMENAL interview! Great questions, great style, tone, and mannerisms. You're clearly a natural at this, Louis. Was far better than most sports interviews you see done by professional interviewers

@SW-mc8er 2 жыл бұрын

I am literally freaking out rn!!! I can’t believe Janja is in London and that you met her!! Thank you so much for posting this

@matteobecchi1210 2 жыл бұрын

Amazing interview! Loved it.

@leftcoastbeard 2 жыл бұрын

Such a great interview!

2 жыл бұрын

Great questions, great answers. Really enjoyed that!

@jonnes__4657 Жыл бұрын

🗽 Love to see Janja in a Q&A. She is such a great climber, already a legend. 🙏 Greetings from Austria. .

@CatalystClimbing Жыл бұрын

Amazing isn't she!

@cristianemanuelherlein6462 2 жыл бұрын

Lovely interview! Super interesting and fun.

@mw5360 2 жыл бұрын

Such good questions and vibe to this. Great stuff.

@Lazy_Eight 2 жыл бұрын

Great interview!

@markusmuller65656 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you both soo sooo much. That was great to watch.

@fingerschinder1323 2 жыл бұрын

Wow, what a cool interview! Thank you very much :)

@linyu8441 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the video, it's amazing to watch you both on the same screen. Can't wait to see Janja climbing during an european competition and on her project outside!

@rhettetherington1351 2 жыл бұрын

Great honest and relaxed Interview. Thanks to both of you.

@kooshatorkcherik2537 2 жыл бұрын

Great interview 👏👏

@ashpowell9451 2 жыл бұрын

Great interview! She's super inspiring.

@alexmackaness8297 2 жыл бұрын

cracking interview Louis well done, should be proud of this! And ofc how amazing is Janja :)

@HarrisAsync 2 жыл бұрын

Wow, very good interview, answered all our questions.

@ivanwang9115 2 жыл бұрын

Great interview

@lisa-koschat 2 жыл бұрын

Wow! What an interview! Loui is such an amazing interviewer! Great questions and flow!

@ejl74 2 жыл бұрын

Yay! This was awesome! I recently listened to her interview on the Enormocast podcast and it was amazing. This was also super cool. Great questions by you!

@androssgetzko2098 2 жыл бұрын

Great Interview from one climber to another. Really good energy!

@fotthewhuck 2 жыл бұрын

thank you for this amazing interview louis and janja! extremely good questions but i didnt expect anything else anyways, athletes should always be interviewed by such passionate people.

@sylvaingilbert6296 6 ай бұрын

Thanks for this! Amazing interview Louis! Thank you thank you 😊🙏

@joolsgrommers1466 2 жыл бұрын

Great interviewing skills! Happy to see you listen to the answers and then go from there, as well as the rehearsed questions.

@goloher 2 жыл бұрын

Really good questions (deep enough for a big thorough interview)! Thank you Louis, thank you Janja:) Loved it!

@conserve_climber 2 жыл бұрын

And I will also add very good questions Captain, a thoughtful interview/conversation…well done 🧗

@NikfangZ 2 жыл бұрын

Good Interview! I will never hangboard again!

@captainshnockleyou3537 Жыл бұрын

Impeccable interviewer and great chemistry between the two of you, excellent content so thank you both!!

@farezzahanumrashid2795 2 жыл бұрын

Louis is a great interviewer 👏👏

@kingsindian8948 2 жыл бұрын

Another great interview! Nice one Louis and Janja comes across as such a lovely balanced person (for someone so extraordinarily brilliant as a climber).

@CLANK... 2 жыл бұрын

Youd make a great counsellor Lois! Very natural and empathic, and insightful open questions. If coaching ever doesnt work out, got another career path I reckon 👍

@gracen6317 Жыл бұрын

Amazing interview!!! Loved this, thank you!!

@CatalystClimbing Жыл бұрын

You're very welcome! Glad that you enjoyed it!

@hannibal3143 2 жыл бұрын

Great interview! I love her humility. I would love to see a unisex climbing competition. It would be a good challenge for route setters, and I think the climbers are up for the challenge too

@jymtr 2 жыл бұрын

that was fun! very interesting as well :D

@conserve_climber 2 жыл бұрын

I love hearing from the reigning Queen of climbing 👍 and quite possibly the GOAT

@slapthesloper 2 жыл бұрын

Some really great questions in here and super cool to hear even Janja is 95% training on the wall. I always think that is how the vast majority of us should train but believed the elites have more reason to specifically hangboard etc. so it’s nice knowing tryhard and targeted exercises on the wall are all you really need

@zacharylaschober 2 жыл бұрын

Several world class athletes have training structures which simply cannot be replicated by the vast, vast majority of the populace. The genetic potential and training history for climbing as a skill sport likely means whatever Janja does at a reasonably hard effort with appropriate recovery will see her progress, especially when having coaches around to assure time under tension and such are there. The 6x4hour weekly training she dropped would probably break the average climber in about a week and see huge deficits in progression since the wall training protocols aren’t as established and controllable. But I don’t disagree with the point. More quality time on the wall.

@barbrobeta Жыл бұрын

Wonderful interview! ❤

@CatalystClimbing Жыл бұрын

Fantastic insight isn't it!?

@marcosmorales266 Жыл бұрын

I smiled the whole interview for some reason

@moya_flat 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for this great talk!

@topdownwindows 2 жыл бұрын

One legend to another! Both of you are such an inspiration to this community!

@conserve_climber 2 жыл бұрын

Oh my goodness Janja Q&A…that’s quite a coup 👍

@skyex5047 2 жыл бұрын

When you record an interview with the top climber and someone comes in to make a coffee.

@chrisandrice Жыл бұрын

Dude,you should be hosting or commentating for international competitions🤙

@Lhistoiresansfin-cg2iw 2 жыл бұрын

What a legend, I really hope she sends La Dura Dura. It would be so amazing, oh man I really really hope she sends it some day.

@Malenia1203 2 жыл бұрын

Love to see next generation female world class climber here. From jain kim, shauna coxey, miho nonaka, akiho noguchi, anna sthor, alex puccio, now is Janja's era im sure

@belbrighton6479 Жыл бұрын

The Netflix film was brilliant and Janja is the GOAT 🐐

@CatalystClimbing Жыл бұрын

Absolutely the best!

@mrmoorash 2 жыл бұрын

Hmm, dream boulder - crimpy, 45 degrees... Am I only one immediaty thought about Burden of Dreams? Would be really cool if Janja try that

@jfreed91 Жыл бұрын

I'm curious how you train for specific techniques or competition style climbs on a stray board. It seems like Janja performs well on coordination moves and tricky slabs that I feel like might be harder to set on a spray wall (but maybe I'm wrong!!). I'd be so curious to hear how that training works

@123amsterdan456 2 жыл бұрын

the GOAT 👑

@asclarke295 2 жыл бұрын

Only a robot would say they’re not a robot 😂 Janja is a legend

@Rycamcam 2 жыл бұрын

Woah!

@billasohyeah 2 жыл бұрын

Conditioning and the physical side is a good way to improve when you can't be at the gym. At the gym I feel that climbing is the way to go and obviously the most fun! 😂

@an1368 2 жыл бұрын

didnt know janja visited the uk!!! :( hahaha

@Snariasdqwada 6 ай бұрын

If you don't know Janja that year went on to win every single gold medal in the European Championship.

@MattLamPiano Жыл бұрын

Does anyone know which event Janja will compete in for the European Championship 2022? Lead, Boulder or the combined?

@CatalystClimbing Жыл бұрын

Best keep an eye out on her social media!

@girlingreyshirt 2 жыл бұрын

I always wondered about the menstrual cycle in female athletes and its effect on mindset and performance. For myself its a huge factor and I wonder why there is so little conversation about it, is everyone of some form of BC, or does the effect diminish on elite level?

@helmasurkingify 2 жыл бұрын

Looked around a bit on this and it seems to be a taboo that's opening up more and more. How much of a problem it is varies a lot from person to person even on Olympic level, and also how it's dealt with. I think it's really important to treat this just like any other common issue that might hold a person back somehow.

@zacharylaschober 2 жыл бұрын

Lattice has been doing a lot more work on this, I think because of the depth of female coaches they have there, to discuss variations in the cycle and influence on training and structure. Because climbing is such a strength to weight ratio activity, I do know a few high end athletes who have talked about disruptions to their menstrual cycle with simultaneous advantage and disadvantage.

@jakobbauz Жыл бұрын

Great interview, thx! Tiny criticism: The camera could have been a little less dead. :D Maybe a close-up of the faces from time time? But as I said: Just a detail. Thx for the great work!

@CatalystClimbing Жыл бұрын

Thank you for the feedback

@samuraikakashi56 2 жыл бұрын

What is the movie that Louis keeps referencing to?

@CatalystClimbing 2 жыл бұрын

The Wall!

@Macks_Mustermann 2 жыл бұрын

I think Louis was a little starstruck ;)

@Dave1507 2 жыл бұрын

You think? It's literally the first thing he mentions after the introduction :D

@LucasdaMatta 2 жыл бұрын

what did she say in 20:10?

@lobtyu 2 жыл бұрын

"super more force, super far"

@bar04z 2 жыл бұрын

Super morpho. Morpho is short for morphological, and means a climb that is very specific to a particular body type (usually, but not always, favouring tall people).

@josiah_pywtorak 2 жыл бұрын

2:45 who?

@juliannenning2 2 жыл бұрын

I didnt want to do any bouldering competitions, mission failed successfully

@conserve_climber 2 жыл бұрын

Are there no female route setters for the comps…wow, that’s interesting.

@ajman9880 Жыл бұрын

@kitka1990 2 жыл бұрын

45*, crimpy, old school. That's the way we like it

@linksgrunversifft4270 14 күн бұрын

I bet janja would win a male comp!

@donaldvanvliet9039 Жыл бұрын

A bit contradictory to say the gap between male and female climbers is closing but at the same time blaming the gap on ‘male routesetters’. If there is no difference between males and females that shouldn’t matter no?

@flooo5071 2 жыл бұрын

I'm surprised that she thinks that the performance level gap between male and female will close. In some styles maybe, but when it's very physical/far ? There is still (generally) a strength gap between men and women.

@MrCmon113 Жыл бұрын

There's also a lean-ness gap, size gap, skill gap, really everything-gap, as in every sport.

@marc5279 Жыл бұрын

Great interview. But about the last minutes... I wonder what will happen when, after years and years of pushing this ideology, no woman comes close to what the best male climbers are achieving in terms of climbing difficulty. Sure there's been some niechy aspects where this was debated for a time, such as linn hill's first free ascent of el cap (or ashima's early V15 is which is still unmached), but that's what they are, very niechy feats. As long as it's very cool to see that we're very close to eachother, on the other hand (and in general), for the time it takes for women to achieve something new, men have gone way ahead already (it took a lifetime of hard training with all the thinkable facilities and today's fancy knowledge about climbing, for a woman to redpoint the same grade as a go-with-the-flow stonner who started climbing at 15yo such as chris sharma, which btw was the second person to redpoint the grade 9a+, 5 years after huber). And yes, maybe in some department it seems like women are catching up, but there's other areas where that's unquestionable (look at how many male vs female climbers have climbed V15 and above, for ex., or onsighted harder routes than 8c). I still dont know what do we gain from expecting that men and women should be climbing equally hard, as in any sport rarely happens that sex ins't a good preditor of success in the elite levels, not to mention that what "should" happen in the higher levels need'nt have to do anything with what happens at the average and lower levels, and no one is making statements about these other ranges. So again... what exactly are we trying to prove with this?