Charge LITHIUM Batteries While Driving

Charge LITHIUM Batteries While Driving - System Setup

Рет қаралды 170,898

Күн бұрын

Can you CHARGE LITHIUM BATTERIES with your ALTERNATOR? Here's how to regulate the output with a DC to DC charger and safely charge your lithium batteries while driving. Choose a topic below:
1:06 Do you need a DC to DC charger?
1:57 Why Renogy DC to DC charger?
2:28 How do I use a DC to DC charger for lithium batteries?
3:37 Lithium battery charge curve?
4:26 How to connect a DC to DC charger?
6:07 DC to DC charger wiring diagram
7:06 Renogy DC to DC charger settings for lithium
WHY DID I GET A RENOGY DC to DC CHARGER?
I went with the basic Renogy 20A DC to DC Charger because it was the least expensive model that met my needs. I setup this deal below if you want a discount.
RENOGY DC-to-DC CHARGER MODELS
10% OFF Renogy DC-DC Charger (20/40/60A) - www.rvwithtito.com/renogy
WHAT OTHER DC-to-DC CHARGERS SHOULD YOU CONSIDER?
Here are some other popular DC to DC CHARGERS for RV, VAN, BOAT (Amazon Affiliate links):
Victron Orion 12/12 30A DC Charger - amzn.to/3AVvka0
Sterling Pro Batt Charger (30A) - amzn.to/2y2XGCY
Sterling ProCharge Ultra (50A) - amzn.to/2JR7l2d
SEE OUR FULL Off-Grid RV SOLAR SYSTEM
www.rvwithtito.com/articles/o...
BOONDOCKING with LITHIUM vs AGM Video
• BOONDOCKING with LITHI...
OUR RV OFF GRID PARTS LIST
www.rvwithtito.com/parts/rv-s...
NOT ADDRESSED IN THE VIDEO:
(1) WHY DID I REMOVE THE GENERATOR? Adding the DC to DC Charger meant I could remove our onboard Onan generator. The generator was simply not used anymore. See how I removed the generator here: • REMOVE ONAN GENERATOR ... . Being able to recharge our house batteries from the engine eliminated the need for a generator. Having one less engine to maintain was another benefit. I was also able to repurpose the generator space and add a new storage compartment, including my DC-DC charger and 2000W Pure Sine Inverter.
(2) WHY NOT UPGRADE YOUR ALTERNATOR? I did not want to make engine modifications. Upgrading the alternator to a higher output model is a common upgrade. The ultimate solution is to add a second alternator dedicated to charging your batteries.
(3) HOW MUCH CURRENT CAN LITHIUM BATTERIES TAKE? You should contact your battery manufacturer for guidance. I’ve heard that fifty percent of the total capacity is a good benchmark. I charge mine at a much lower amperage of 10-20 percent of my total battery capacity.
#rvwithtito #rvdiy #lithiumbatteries
This video also addresses these topics: How do you charge a lithium battery with an alternator, How do you hook up a dc dc charger, Dc to dc charger, dc to dc charger rv, renogy dc to dc, charge lithium battery with alternator, charge lithium battery from alternator, battery to battery charger lithium, Charge house battery from alternator, how to charge rv battery while driving, dc lithium battery charger, charge rv battery from alternator, lithium battery charging from alternator, charge house battery while driving.
DISCLAIMER
The opinions expressed in our videos are our own or from a contributor. Before taking on any project or making a large purchase, we recommend you do your own research and consult a professional for advice. We are NOT liable for any damage to your RV or injury incurred as a result of following our tips, advice or instructions. We are not RV professionals or certified technicians. We are simply RV owners who work on our own RVs and have a desire to share what we learn with others. Be responsible and know your limits.
AFFILIATE DISCLAIMER
This video may include links to merchants with affilliate programs who pay us a commission on purchases made or actions taken after clicking the link. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.

Пікірлер: 480

@dfgdfg_ 2 жыл бұрын

You get the feeling that as well as smart this guy is super kind and chill to be around, and has some good stories to tell around the fire.

@RVwithTito 2 жыл бұрын

@CLdriver1960 3 жыл бұрын

Hey Brian, I’ve been following your DYI videos for about a year now, and you’re the go to guy for RV / van conversion and upgrades. Thanks for all of your videos!

@RVwithTito 3 жыл бұрын

Wow, thanks

@Endless_Skyway_Adventures 3 жыл бұрын

Good Video, One not so minor point. All fuses should be located as close to the source of power as humanly possible. They literally make terminal fuses that mount directly to the battery terminal for this purpose. Why? The length of cable between the battery and the fuse is unprotected, if your chassis were to wear away insulation and make contact with the frame, your battery would dump all it's energy into the frame potentially causing a fire. If however your fuse were located on the battery terminal, or as close as possible, the same worn insulation condition would simply blow the fuse, which is why you have it there in the first place. Once you adopt this practice you are much safer from a potential fire. I'm sure you are aware but for others reading, the fuse has to be the weakest link in the circuit, 20 amp wire with a 15 amp fuse is good. 20 amp wire with a 30 amp fuse means your wire will melt before the fuse. Sorry to be Preachy but I see both of these safety procedures violated all the time.....

@barefoot64 4 жыл бұрын

Awesome information Brian! Thanks!

@RVwithTito 4 жыл бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

@randyvallis4973 4 жыл бұрын

Informative and well thought out as always

@RVwithTito 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Randy. Appreciate that feedback 👍

@LyfUninterrupted 4 жыл бұрын

Great info as always. 👍

@RVwithTito 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks guys!

@carln1303 3 жыл бұрын

great solution, great instruction, thanks

@photopicker 2 жыл бұрын

Wow. You helped me figure out the best practices with this unit. I love the idea of a power switch for the controller, and the 14.4v settings. I would still use the power signal for run however as it is possible to leave the charge switch on a deplete a starter battery.

@roughas100 2 жыл бұрын

I'm assuming the manual switch for the DC DC charger would have a positive supply from the ignition circuit ? Not directly from the start battery. But yeah I really like the idea of the manual switch and being able to switch it while driving . Guess you could put an ammeter on the alternator output too and keep it say to a max of 70% of its rated output , more so if the engine is just ticking over at idle .

@functionalvanconversion4284 3 жыл бұрын

Great information! Thank you:)

@Ian22222221 3 жыл бұрын

Awesome video! Thank you!

@TignerAdventures 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Brian. This has been my concern for switching to Lithium. This makes it clean and simple. And I do prefer to use my solar when I am driving if it is sunny since the more load on the alternator the more gas the engine uses. David

@RVwithTito 4 жыл бұрын

Yes. My thoughts exactly. I actually turn it off when climbing up a mountain or at times when the engine is working hard.

@michaeldoherty2289 2 жыл бұрын

Your solar can work perfectly in unison with the DC-DC charger, reducing the load on your alternator. Unless you have a very small alternator that can't handle a maximum of 20A (in this case), its not necessary to shut it off. I don't think going up a hill makes the alternator work harder. When you have the AC and other accessories on, your power demand is higher. That's when you'd want to shut the DC-DC charger off.

@texaslonestarrider 4 жыл бұрын

Very Cool! 😎

@jameshodgins1937 2 жыл бұрын

I am in the process of hooking up a Sterling 30 amp DC to DC charger for my Travel Trailer. When done, it will be great. Love your videos.

@ELCEV 3 жыл бұрын

Just ordered it, thanks.

@RVwithTito 3 жыл бұрын

Hope you enjoy it! Not fancy, but it works.

@ben2687 3 жыл бұрын

Cool cool. This is what I want to setup for my camper trailer

@RVwithTito 3 жыл бұрын

It's a pretty simple setup.

@michaelhorowitz4485 Жыл бұрын

Hi Bryan, thanks for this video. I'm just starting to switch over to lithium batteries and couldn't understand how to change from the stock solenoid to the dc to dc charger. I found the solenoid so I figured I was on the right track but this video confirmed it for me. Thanks. I've been watching your other videos and am anxious to get started with my solar system. Your work is excellent!

@RVwithTito Жыл бұрын

Thanks! Glad it helped you out.

@brotherbo2532 Жыл бұрын

Thank you, was helpful especially info regarding switches.

@robertgarbe6348 4 жыл бұрын

Nicely done. And I eventually need to do that, but with solar as primary, I use my PRogressive 60 amp LI charger either from shore power or generator as secondary. I put a switch in to turn the alternator on, but have not used it.

@ronie1337 3 жыл бұрын

THANKS FOR THE INFO!

@RVwithTito 3 жыл бұрын

Any time!

@trevortrevortsr2 2 жыл бұрын

I used a voltage sensive little relay that cost £11 GBP about $14 - it triggers the Renogy - it comes on at 13.2V and goes off at 12.8V. I put a switch in with a little LED indicator so I independantly turn it off

@wesleymcgonagle3394 2 жыл бұрын

Gidday Brian, i'm a newbie to your channel and love the information you put into your videos, they really are excellent. So i'm new RV'ing life and have in the past had a jeep and a small camping trailer with a Roof Top Tent on it, we really liked to go deep into know where. Anyway? I used the Redarc DC - DC to 20 amp charger setup, as i had a dual Battery system with AGM Chassis Battery and a 100AH LiFEPO house battery to run our chargers, fridge freezer etc... the thing i liked about the Redarc is it setup to always prioritize Solar first before alternator, we had a 100w Solar Panel on the roof of the Jeep and we could plug an additional 100w Panel at camp. So driving down the road it would take that 3-5amps of solar reducing the current draw on the alternator. Now back to Binge watching your videos. Cheers, Wes

@bparkinson1234 4 жыл бұрын

Nice video. I need to add this... thanks

@RVwithTito 4 жыл бұрын

Not too difficult to do. Good luck!

@damirka83 Жыл бұрын

Thank you Tito!

@GeneratorReviews 3 жыл бұрын

Great job!

@RVwithTito 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

@barbsharanowski5837 4 жыл бұрын

I need you - your setup is amazing. Please come to Florida and help me :)

@vaskodimoski5690 3 жыл бұрын

Good video . If anyone wants to see a good video on trying to charge a lithium battery directly from your alternator just type in victron alternator test

@jm20100 4 жыл бұрын

thank you TITO for this information I have the same type of charger in 21A but delivers 45 A engine running (reinforced alternator), charging for the vehicle battery and 100Ah cabin lithium battery.

@frederick6008 10 ай бұрын

I just bought the 20A like yours for exactly the same reasons except dc/dc charging will be my primary and solar when stationary. Thanks

@MichaelEricMenk 4 жыл бұрын

Regarding sizing the charger. You can by temprature sensor to monitor the alternator temperature. When it gets to high, the charger is turned off. The problem with maxing out your alternator is that the cooling fan runs to slow at high RPM combined with that litium charges for a long time in CC mode(bulk), so this overheats the alternator.

@meganote 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Good info. I’m basically doing the same setup on my sailboat, but using the Victron Orion TR 18a unit. I could probably gone with the 30 amp unit, but like you, I didn’t want to damage my alternator (51amp). Basically with this set up you’re charging your LiFePO4 bank from you starter battery while the alternator keeps it charged. Thanks once again.

@solosailorsv8065 3 жыл бұрын

me too; i didn't want to convert or confuse the lead acid-alternator-solar charging, so the DC/DC converter allows all that to stay As-Is, while the house batts are now LiFePo4. The current limit and ENABLE (D+) switch are great for a boat! great set up

@brentmcgillis 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Tito for the informative video, you explain things is a real world scenario that will be a natural fit for most people. Thank-you for including any small miffs that did not cause any significant damage to the system (Dip switch setting); these are errors that any user could have easily made, and by including that tidbit you may have saved many users from any long term and lasting damage to the system. Your set-up seems to be logical and a configuration that will make sense to a sizeable portion of DIY electrical system RV'rs. Thank-you for sharing your experiences and taking the time to share it with us newbies to these systems that are quite intimidating and appear very complex when we first see them.

@RVwithTito 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the great feedback. I really appreciate it.

@whereareyou7000 Жыл бұрын

Excellent video

@RVwithTito Жыл бұрын

Glad you liked it. Did you see this follow up video? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/otx_jLiXuKjQnYE.html

@mikestone9129 2 жыл бұрын

Brian, if you call the Ford dealership and give them the last 6 (I think it's 6) numbers of your vin they can tell you what size alternator is on your rig.

@RVwithTito 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the tip. 👍

@nathannookie 4 жыл бұрын

I think your choice of the 20amp version was a good one. Better to not load up the alternator too much if you want it to last. Anyway, thanks for another great video!

@RVwithTito 4 жыл бұрын

That was my reasoning anyway. Cheers.

@stevenerkman3230 3 жыл бұрын

I believe the alternator delivers 95 amps, I guess the 40 amps version would also worked

@Paul-bf7nj 4 жыл бұрын

This was really interesting although I have a fifth wheel the principles would remain the same. The nice thing is in my 6.7 I have two alternators. As always thanks for the great information in the clear and concise way you present it. Please be safe as we navigate this difficult time.

@andypop123 4 жыл бұрын

The Ford starting alternator is 157 amp, the aux on my 2018 is 220 amps. I ran a 1/0 awg cable to a Anderson plug on the bumper (I can also bring into the bed) 2/0 cable would of been sufficient. Anyhow that allows me to run a Redarc 40amp DC -DC charger for my 4 BB batteries. The Redarc is also my solar controller for my portable panels. Good luck

@timf6916 4 жыл бұрын

Good job

@RVwithTito 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks

@Electronzap Жыл бұрын

Nice.

@IbericaOverland 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your help, I also have lithium and was struggling with those 5 pins, the manual is really a mess. Cheers

@RVwithTito 4 жыл бұрын

You're welcome!

@uweschroeder 3 жыл бұрын

Actually the manual does explain the dip switches reasonably well. Problem is, that manual was probably written by the person who designed the PCB with the switch on it, so it was perfectly clear to him/her how those switches work. I had no problem reading and understanding the description of the switches - but then I used to be someone who designed things like that - I'm actually struggling a lot more with a perfectly consumer friendly description of a setting on an iPhone :-)

@Roy-ij1wq 2 жыл бұрын

Brian - My 2015 Ford Expedition with a 3.5 Ecoboost and tow package has a 285 amp alternator. I opted for the 60 amp charger but also made use of the LC terminal. With your setup, you could easily run a second wire from the LC terminal to your switch location and swap the switch for a three way where you would have off, 20 amp and 10 amp. The charger is designed to cut the output current in half if it detects current on the LC terminal. For example, if your're driving at night and just need to power your refrigerator you could limit the current to 10 amps. You may also want to limit the current if you're driving in the mountains and want more power from your engine.

@frito_bandito_ 4 жыл бұрын

Brian, Good Video! I have 2017 E450 V10 (Jayco) chassis, and the stock alternator is 120 amps ( from supplied Ford literature). I have a single 100 ah lithium battery, and it charges from the alternator when the engine is running. In order to control when I want to charge, I wired a switch in the coil circuit of the relay that ties the house and chassis batteries together. I enable charging when I’m driving at highway speeds. It typically charges at 20-ish Amps with the single battery

@RVwithTito 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the info!

@terrywilliams557 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks a big help

@RVwithTito 2 жыл бұрын

Glad it helped

@tope.sosanya 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks so much for sharing! super nice setup and seems easy enough to configure. I like how careful you were about making sure you're using it only when you need it :)

@michaeldoherty2289 3 жыл бұрын

One of the cool things I find is if you have an inverter you can run your refrigerator on 120v when you are traveling which is much safer than running it on propane while on the road. With the DC to DC charger you can always be sure your house battery is fully charged when you get to your destination even when traveling at night (or when its dreary weather) when solar is not optimal.

@jounik8980 2 жыл бұрын

12v fridge

@michaeldoherty2289 2 жыл бұрын

@@jounik8980 If you have one thats great. Mines a 2 way....propane or 120v. If yours is 12v you are still probably using 25a/hour so the DC-DC charger is fantastic to keep your house battery topped off.

@vociferonheraldofthewinter2284 9 ай бұрын

Thank you for this. I appreciate keeping to the side of caution. Last thing I want to do is hurt my bus. If you ever install another system like this, you might want to consider a step-by-step 'for dummies' kind of walk through. I'd happily sit through a two hour clinic to learn how to do it right.

@jepa72 4 жыл бұрын

I would love a video about a day in the life of RV with Tito now that you are out there boondocking. What do you do with all your setup. Put everything you have done into perspective.

@RVwithTito 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the suggestion Jorge. Our days are pretty ordinary actually. Power is abundant. So we do/use the things we would normally do/use. The only difference is that we use very little water.

@jimsjacob 3 жыл бұрын

Jorge read my mind... I love a vid where you show what your days are like. Do you work remote or are you retired? Don’t mean to pry, but I’m close to making the retirement change and wonder what it would be like.

@stevehericks5764 4 жыл бұрын

For those who want to consider a different way, I installed a second alternator on my F350 and converted a stock 120A alternator to 24v using an external 'Transpo' regulator set to 29.4v. I have 17.5kwh of Nissan Leaf cells in a 7S configuration directly connected to the alternator with 4ga wire. When the battery is low, the alternator can charge at 150A and will quickly overheat and burnout....... so I have placed a thermostat on the excitation power lead to the regulator. When the alternator case reaches 120C, excitation is cut until the alternator cools to 110C. Alternators can safely run as high as 140C. I have temp, voltage and amperage meters in my center console as well as a manual enable/disable switch for charging. As a point of interest my 120A alternator can deliver between 80-85A continuously and remain below 120C. A similar 12v setup is not as ideal with a LiFePO4 and single alternator system because of the lower than ideal charging voltage but it can be useful nonetheless. / '

@RVwithTito 4 жыл бұрын

Interesting setup with the thermostat. Thanks for sharing that.

@penncapt 4 жыл бұрын

LOve it. Can you show link to thermostat? Does the excite wire now need 24v or 12? What happens when Leaf battery gets full? Now the excite wire is not doing what it is intended for. Is your enable switch connected to the excite also/ In series with thermo? alternators make 3 phase AC power that is rectified to DC. So you get a DC power that is turning on and off. Unlike a battery that is always on. Do you find you have to charge for 1 hour to get 1/2 hour battery use, at the same amp reading? I have 7s also. This has me very interested.

@dewholdingsllc1050 4 жыл бұрын

You can protect any alternator and circuit from over heating by installing an external bridge rectifier. Most factory RV alternators are not best for keeping up with power demands of rv batteries and systems so an extra bridge rectifier will add life to alternator and help it function better.

@hitmanhite 3 жыл бұрын

I would love to do this on my 7.3 one day.

@stevehericks5764 3 жыл бұрын

@@hitmanhite I bought my dual alternator brackets, idlers etc as a take off kit from a wrecking yard that advertised it on ebay ($175). (I'm told) Ford only offered it for the 7/3 from 99-03 and on ambulances. You might want to set up an ebay search for one and see if someone wants to put one up....alternatively, scrounge junkyards for ambulances

@tylerwellman5783 3 жыл бұрын

Wow this video is super helpful. And I've watched a lot of videos about Renogy stuff. Thanks man!

@flipsrvlife4579 4 жыл бұрын

Very well done sir. My rig charges my two house batteries when on or driving, but I can't charge my solar battery bank as everything is in my trailer. Odd, lol, I know. Good luck Brian.

@uweschroeder 3 жыл бұрын

Just run an extra wire to the trailer. I do that with my setup since I only have a trailer and I just have a second cable along the standard trailer cable that I plug into my jeep which has the charger installed in one of the cubbies below the trunk. That allows me to charge the house battery while driving or when my solar panels don't produce enough power.

@DavidWhite 4 жыл бұрын

Brian we have basically the same rig mine came with a 225 amp charger. I am pumping 40 amps to my battery bank. They come standard with 129 amp alternators, but offer also a 155 and a 225 amp version

@RVwithTito 4 жыл бұрын

Good to know. I feel better knowing it's probably the 129 A model. Thanks Dave.

@skywagon185guy 4 жыл бұрын

Brian, Thanks for great videos especially the complete details. One of the points you might emphasize often is that lithium batteries require a higher voltage, to top them off, than the standard alternator is set up to supply. Thus, one of the key reasons for incorporating the DC to DC convertor.

@RVwithTito 4 жыл бұрын

That's a great suggestion. I appreciate it. Thanks.

@DennisWintjes2 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks. Like #128. Replacement alternators are 95, 120 or 130 Amps. There are higher outputs too, but your stock should be 95, 120 or 130.

@RVwithTito 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks! I appreciate the info. Someone else here said the V10 is probably a 130A but I can't find it documented anywhere.

@richardsirois6975 3 жыл бұрын

@@RVwithTito It would be JAYCO that decides which one to use. I depends on the gadgets in your RV. Ford can't guess.

@ChrisDIYerOklahoma 4 жыл бұрын

I like how you can switch it on/off. Didn't know Renogy made those units. My question: Why wouldn't a standard dual battery isolator unit (diode isolation) work? I know Eaton and Victron make them. Just not sure if they would be suitable for a lithium house battery banks (with voltage/current limits). Hope all is well with you guys! My lithiums are beasts...the BMS has an BT APP for SOC/voltage/cycling #s. Going lithium is expensive...but, night/day difference.

@roarkmerrill7326 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I have a 2003 beaver patriot thunder diesel pusher and it is ridiculously complicated wiring. Where do I begin to dissect the power grid? Where would I even install the DC to DC charger? I have no idea where power is coming from to charge the house batteries.

@pommypaul9118 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you; very straight forward. Looks like my Dodge truck has a 160A alternator. Any idea what the maximum recommended DC to DC charger rating might be? Of course more amps means faster recharge of the trailer batteries, but perhaps I should measure typical current draw during regular vehicle charging to see what the headroom might be.

@johnb9526 4 жыл бұрын

You asked the rating of the altnerator in the video. Online parts store show the replacement is about 120 to 130 ramps.

@brucegadbois9851 3 жыл бұрын

Hi Brian Like your video. I installed a 40 amp dc-dc charger on a 100amp lithium also. So far so good. As far as amperage and alternator speed you only get the max output rating at the higher speed, but it is dependent on load . Example 1, if all batteries are fully charged you would only have minimal amperage coming from alternator. Example 2 ,if your lithium bank was depleted your alternator will only put out about 25 amps because of the dc-dc charger .

@tonygao1816 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your information. Can you charge your house batteries from solar and alternator at the same time? Thanks.

@RVwithTito 4 жыл бұрын

Yes. Not a problem. Do it all the time. 👍

@roamsweethome4895 4 жыл бұрын

Brian, on your V10, I believe you have a 120A alternator. The case is the same size as the 90A typically found on V8 engines.

@RESTESSMYSTIC 10 ай бұрын

THANX

@warrenlambard2445 3 жыл бұрын

Brian: Enjoy your videos! 2 questions do you run the negative output of the DC DC to the chassis or to the shunt then negative battery terminal? How do I locate your diagram to the solar system, also what are the gland size for 10 awg and 6 awg wire? Thanks

@ronedelenbos272 3 жыл бұрын

Hi. Great information but I'm perplexed on your choice not to upgrade your Alt to a higher amperage or even add a second dedicated house alternator ( great backup potential for the RV) And as for the manual switch is it on switched circuit ? (key on) Great info I'm glad I bumped into this.

@MrVanhovey 3 жыл бұрын

Designed output of alternator depends on RPM and cooling. It will output 90 amps but not under low idle speeds (will burn it up). I would limit draw to 20 amps.

@groovyjazzbeats61 3 жыл бұрын

Great video, thanks! How did you connect the on/off switch and what kind of switch? Is it a direct connection from the + wire from the alternator or did you need some kind of special device?

@RVwithTito 3 жыл бұрын

For me it was from a 12V source tied to the house battery. The charger will kick on if there's 12V on that input (intended for an ignition source). It doesn't matter where it comes from.

@marionsutcliffe1119 2 жыл бұрын

Ya, you just run the little wire from the + input on the charger.... with a switch inline.

@johnmalecki3893 3 жыл бұрын

Nice description. Would this system set up apply to a tow vehicle/travel trailer where the charging power flows through the 7 pole light hitch plug? Does your Renogy auto control charging of lithium if there was no manual over ride switch?

@Scbaman120 4 жыл бұрын

Hey Brian, I am building out a camper van right now and have found your videos very helpful this last week. Quick question for you about this set up combined with your solar. I already installed an isolator from my starter battery to my second battery (This is hooked up and working great). My alternator produces about 95 amps. I would like to install a 200-watt system on the roof with 20 amp victron charge controller (similar to yours). Do you know if having the alternator and the charge controller hooked up to the same battery will cause problems? In particular, will having 95 amps coming from the alternator harm the charge controller? Sorry if you have covered this in a previous video I am still watching all of your old stuff. Thanks, Steven

@marionsutcliffe1119 2 жыл бұрын

No it won't. But, you might exceed the max charging current of the battery to have both going at once. Check your battery specs. That's why I like the switch idea.

@billtucker1041 2 жыл бұрын

Hi Brian. Thanks for the video. I am looking to upgrade my CClass to lithium as well. Do you have a schematic of this install showing all the connections and routing including the repurposed "aux" start switch to power the charger? Thanks.

@mrmudstud5980 4 жыл бұрын

On my Class A 2003 Pace Arrow with a V-10, it has a 130 amp alternator.

@RVwithTito 4 жыл бұрын

130A seems to be the right number as people are saying. Thanks.

@ORJeeper 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the video. I plan on installing mine the same way (on/off switch). I have noticed in most of the install videos for the Renogy unit that LC connection is not used. Do you know how and why it would be used? Thanks

@changchung Жыл бұрын

Good video. Thanks for share. For how long are you using these batteries? They are still working good?

@RVwithTito Жыл бұрын

Yes. The batteries are great. We did upgrade the DC charger to a Victron model though. The Class C was sold earlier this year, but we now have an older Class A that I put more Battleborn Batteries in. Again...excellent performance.

@changchung Жыл бұрын

@@RVwithTito Great. Thanks. I will check your videos.

@adventureshark631 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks, I just installed mine and your video was extremely helpful. I also used the wire and switch to turn mine on and off. I love not having to reinvent the wheel. Thanks.

@RVwithTito 3 жыл бұрын

Great to hear! Thanks for following up. Hope it works well for you.

@richpetrelli2783 3 жыл бұрын

Hi Brian, great video as usual! I did this install recently and I’m very pleased with the device. Question though, for the small volt meter in your door, did you just connect it to the positive terminal that replaced the solenoid under the hood? Wouldn’t that just show the engine battery volts? Or did you run a wire from the house batteries to that meter? Thanks!

@RVwithTito 3 жыл бұрын

I connected it to that switch which originally was the emergency start switch. It was connected to that solenoid on the house battery side. So it shows the house battery voltage.

@00708046 3 жыл бұрын

You can connect it to any 12v fuse or circuit . There are volt meters that plug directly into cigarette lighter (12v.) They only work with key turned on acc. or running (powering the cigarette lighter).

@spacexvanityprojectslimite3315 3 жыл бұрын

@@RVwithTito so straight answer direct to house battery

@johndodi 3 жыл бұрын

Brian, good information about your set up with the lithium batteries. Question, could you have left the Solenoid switch in your circuitry just in case your coach battery ever went dead to start your RV?

@RVwithTito 3 жыл бұрын

I could have left it if I ran a second dedicated cable for the charger. The charger is one-direction only (from chassis to house). Instead I reused the #2 gauge cable that went to the solenoid. Hope that makes sense.

@5michaelrider 2 жыл бұрын

Hi Brian. I love your videos, and often watch them on our big TV in the living room, much to my wife's chagrin. I am installing a 200AH Lithium Battery in out Thor AXIS 24.1, a "Class A" built on a Ford E350 chassis. The "house" battery can be charged by the alternator, shore power, or an on-board generator - the famously noisy Onan 4000. I want to install a DC to DC charge controller in the system to protect the alternator, but the chassis is fitted with a Bi-Directional relay controlling an isolator relay, a coach disconnect relay, and a chassis disconnect relay. I am stumped as to how to hook the charge controller up and retain the handy functions of the relays. Any advice or a reference to one of your videos would be greatly appreciated!

@asencyel 4 жыл бұрын

a bit late response but you main concern should be low rpm /idle condition leadin to overheating of the alternator. since gasoline engine idle torque is sufficient evene idle rotation provides enough power for the alternator to feed requested current from the lithium power pack. and this amperage can reach to 90 or more amps. since idle rotation is very low the integrated fan blowing cold air to the coils of alternator can not cope with this power transmission and alternator becomes a fire hazard itself. limiting lithium charge maximum current to 20 amps is a good call. other intelligent adan adaptive options need additional components if you require more amps to the lithium pack to charge it in a hurry. thanks for videos series btw, good work !

@RVwithTito 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks. I really appreciate the insight. It makes me feel better about sticking with the 20 amp model for those reasons.

@gazed945 Жыл бұрын

I used this 20a renogy to charge my lithium battery, the power draw from the 12v ARK Power pack was 35A though it would only be 20A max

@trevortrevortsr2 3 жыл бұрын

My friend has just 3D printed a duct for the fans so the Renogy can be fitted in the electronics cupboard and vent to the outside - an additional 60mm dia vent at the other side of the cuboard helps keep everything ventilated

@edgardoguzman2858 3 жыл бұрын

My 2019 Ford E450 Four WInds Class C RV has a stock 155 amp alternator. I called FORD and asked. No idea what yours would be but imagine should be pretty close.

@robertselene1 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Tito for your great videos I have learned alot about solar and many diy projects in my rv. I truly admire how good your jobs end up very clean and professional looking. I have a question for you or any of your followers about Renogy products I have experience a very negative experience with their customer service and warranty fulfillment in particular, they are just non responsive and non professional I purchased 4 of their flexible panels 1 has gone bad by bubbling on the surface and is no longer producing energy I have also bought a dc to dc charger in the past few days after looking at your video about this dc to dc charger but I am worried of the future and responsiveness from this company, any thoughts or suggestions would greatly be appreciated it.

@RVwithTito 3 жыл бұрын

That's unfortunate. I've only picked up a few Renogy items, this being one of them, and haven't had to deal with their customer service. Fortunately, the DC-DC charger is still working fine after a year an a half or so. There's a lot going on in the Chinese market these days. I wonder if that has anything to do with it.

@robertselene1 3 жыл бұрын

@@RVwithTito I do wonder as well what happened. I can tell you that it is unfortunate to not be able to rely on good customer service for any product its been 2 weeks and no response from Renogy. I honestly think I will be using Victron or battleborn products for what I've read and seen other people mentioned there customer service is top notch. Thank you for taking the time to respond and please continue to post more of your amazing video content I have learned how to do a lot of diy projects for my Rv , God bless.

@kenjohnston3971 2 жыл бұрын

@@robertselene1 Had the same experience with Renogy. Customer care is awful after the purchase.

@iosullysammy 3 жыл бұрын

Hello there. Question. I am very confused about the engine connection. Do you connect on BOTH the engine alternator and engine battery then to your lithium bank. Can you not just connect only on the engine battery red to positive black to negative. Thanks

@gidderman 3 жыл бұрын

Alot of those ford e-series have 110 or 130 amp stock alternators. You were wise to be cautious with the amperage provided, as you would need some heavier cable and proper dedicated ground cables to go higher amps. Most vehicles are not well grounded from the alternator to the chassis for high amp loads. Adding extra ground cables from the engine block to the chasis and sometimes to the battery is always a good move, as well as adding heavier or dedicated power feed off the alternator, such as what high end audio enthusiasts do.

@RVwithTito 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the info. It was helpful. So far it's been working fine when I need it on long drive days.

@ScottDLR 2 жыл бұрын

Very helpful vid! I'd like to simply leave the lithium batts connected to the Renogy charger all the time I'm driving, regardless of their state of charge. Would that be a problem? Does the charger need to go to float somehow? Maybe the Renogy does that? Thanks!

@marionsutcliffe1119 2 жыл бұрын

Lithium batteries don't use float. The lithium dip switch settings ensure the charger doesn't give float. You can see this all in the online manual.

@troy3456789 2 жыл бұрын

I've got a Redarc 12 amp on mine. I didn't discover I could have gotten another brand name a lot cheaper until it was too late. Redarc makes a damn nice dc to dc charger though.

@rmk091873 2 жыл бұрын

Hey Brian. I'm in the process of following your footstep on upgrading my Class A from AGM to lithium. I'm going to use the DC-to-DC route as well... but only thing I haven't been able to figure out is what to do with the current alternator charging (of the AGM batteries). Since my AGMs have been charged using the alternator all along, I assume I need to disable that as part of this DC-to-DC charging upgrade... right? What do I need to do in order to disable the alternator charging? More specifically the existing wiring on the current AGM batteries. Thanks!

@CC58 4 жыл бұрын

I recently got the same charger for car camping for use with an AGM battery. Great way to avoid solar for small RVs or car camping. For a small RV you might not even need solar with this charger.

@RVwithTito 4 жыл бұрын

This is true.

@AndreyKan1 3 жыл бұрын

Hey Charles, how did you setup the switches for your AGM? manual setup voltages - not battery type. Thank you

@tim1299 3 жыл бұрын

I have a 1977 Honey MH. My house battery is deep cycle lead acid hooked up to the Progressive Dynamics Converter / smart charger. I can isolate from draining the starter battery while camping, yet while driving , I am charging both house and starter battery. I want one small lithium battery for tv, not disrupt the current system, but be able to charge it from the alternator and /or 100 watt solar panel I bought a Westinghouse 2200xi for the roof air I occasionally use. Lp for refrig and stove. Dual Power hot water heater. I am stating all this fyi. I like my TV and want to quietly power it. any feedback appreciated.

@patjensen1450 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Brian! I’m currently in the process of determining the best way to do exactly what you’ve just done - protect my truck electrical while charging my house lithium batteries. Does your Renogy dc-dc converter isolate the starter battery from the house lithium batteries?

@RVwithTito 4 жыл бұрын

Not necessarily. If left on when the engine isn't running, the charger will continue to draw power from the chassis. This could drain the chassis battery. This is why, you should wire the power switch to a 12V source that's only powered with the engine running. Hope that clears it up.

@patjensen1450 4 жыл бұрын

But when you have switched off the converter does the house battery pass any current back to the starter battery?

@iTman20007 3 жыл бұрын

It has battery Input and Output isolation.

@hukchone4521 3 жыл бұрын

Hi Thank you Is it not possible to charge sub battery by connecting to main battery? So i can charge while driving

@correiazores 4 жыл бұрын

I've installed a Votronic (think it's a German company) they make a tiny 30amp DC-DC charger. The goal is to charge AGM batteries whilst the chassis has sealed lead acid, and of course not kill the alternator. And it's in parallel with a victron mppt for a 100w solar panel.

@danpease8395 3 жыл бұрын

Cover that positive post! 5:40 You might want to have a temp gauge on your alternator, that way you will be forewarned if it is being overworked. Question: if you have a 90 amp alternator, why not have a second b to b 20 amp ready to go? If it is heating up the alternator, shut one off.

@pommypaul9118 2 жыл бұрын

Hey Brian, I have purchased the 40 amp model, apparently well suited for my 160A rated alternator. I really like your illuminated switch idea so as not to overheat the alternator when idling for any length of time. According to Renogy's instructions, the charger should be as close as possible to the house battery. That said, I have a trailer, so the charger should probably be in the trailer, not the truck; one more line to connect/disconnect every time I hook up. To facilitate the switch installation, maybe the charger would be okay at the back end of the truck with a few feet of extra wire on the output side. Any thought on this? I'll also ask Renogy to see what they say. Thanks.

@pommypaul9118 Жыл бұрын

@@MrSilvertech Mike, I don't think the factory connector on my Dodge Ram has wire any heavier than 12AWG. Renogy recommends #4 for the long distance that I had to run from the truck battery to the trailer. I added 6AWG (as I already had some). Seems to carry 40-50 amps as required.

@larrye347 4 жыл бұрын

I just bought 2 Lion UT 1300 batteries. Trying to decide on Renogy or Victron Orion TR Smart? Lion recommended Redarc, but said either of these would work.

@MarkMesserli 4 жыл бұрын

Been looking at DC to DC charger for my sailboat to charge my 4 Battle Borns from my engine alternator. Thinking of the Victron Orion 12 12 30.

@MarkMesserli 4 жыл бұрын

Have to be careful not to overload the alternator. Good to hear the Renogy is working for you!

@RVwithTito 4 жыл бұрын

Yes. That's the Victron model I was referring to and linked in the description.

@ryanleroy777 3 жыл бұрын

Want to set something like this up on my Tacoma. Any recommendations regarding who i could contact in SoCal riverside area to help with the install?

@sikandinc 3 жыл бұрын

At full charge it will ALWAYS have more than 20 Amps being drawn from the alternator. This is mentioned in the product manual as the DC-DC draws a higher current then what it provides to the aux battery (input amps > output amps). Your alternator draw for the 20 Amp DC-DC charger (Renogy) could be as high as 30 A's . This is why they ask that a 30 A fuse be used on the input side.

@prepperjonpnw6482 2 жыл бұрын

Really? That’s interesting and good to know. You say thats in the product manual? Is that the Renogy manual? I’m thinking of doing something similar because where I camp solar is only useable if it’s portable with a long wire so you can move it around and even that doesn’t work a lot of the time. Reason? Dense forest so my travel trailer is in the shade 99% of the time except when driving on the highway which means I might as well use the dc-dc charger. I want to protect my alternator and truck battery as well as protect my lithium batteries.

@WorkingOnExploring 2 жыл бұрын

@@prepperjonpnw6482 20A output is 20A x 14.6V = 292W. Charger efficiency is ~92% so input draw is 292W/.92 = 324W. If you are running a modern truck with variable voltage alternator, the alternator may only put out 12.4-13.0V much of the time. Drawing 324W/12.4V = 26.2A (at most) from the vehicle system. In this case, a 30A fuse is too small. Fuses should be 125%-150% of the max continuous current. 26.2A x 1.25 = 32.75A. 26.2A x 1.5 = 39.2A. Best fit is a 35A but a 40A fuse could also work.

@sikandinc 2 жыл бұрын

@@prepperjonpnw6482 A 30 A draw on your alternator is not really that big of a deal to be honest. I've had this on my standard toyota 4runner alternator for a year and change and its quite smooth in terms of draw. I know folks who have 30A and even 50A's hooked up to their stock alternators and usually they can handle it. You can also upgrade your truck's alternator and there are quite decent after market options available.

@bring_it_on9934 2 жыл бұрын

@@WorkingOnExploring When in doubt, consult the product manual for what fuse they recommend and do accordingly. Renogy does have fuse requirements for this and other DC products.

@jaygold4467 2 жыл бұрын

Please note in this video above, the first two dip switches determine the charging voltage for the lithium batteries. He has his set to 14.4 for Battle Borns. If you have SOK's they want a 14.6 volt charge. Then set the first dip switch to ON (down) instead of off.

@RVwithTito 2 жыл бұрын

Great tips. Thanks! 👍

@michaelgegoski1058 2 жыл бұрын

With the SOK battery, are the rest of the switches (2 through 5) correctly configured?

@michaeldoherty2289 2 жыл бұрын

@@michaelgegoski1058 SOK 14.4v charge should be set at off/on/on/on/off. Remember that down is on and up is off on these units. So for SOK its up/down/down/down/up.

@michaelgegoski1058 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks, love your videos. Keep up the good work.

@jaygold4467 2 жыл бұрын

@@michaeldoherty2289 That is incorrect for SOK. As per above, SOK specifically calls for 14.6 v charging , NOT 14.4. Therefore the first dip switch should be set to the down position for 14.6v

@ozmid40scouple 4 жыл бұрын

I just used a Ctek DC to DC charger (D250SA) that also accepts Solar input and prioritises the solar over alternator.......the new model Ctek DC to DC charger also charges Lithium. For increased charge rate you can add later a "Smartpass 120"......

@RVwithTito 4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the info

@mikes1172 3 жыл бұрын

I have a Victron 12/12 18 AMP on order for charging up a 200AH Lithium with 500 watt solar setup. I'm using this in a very small toy hauler and like you I didn't want to tax the alternator especially when at idle or slow speeds. Sometimes, less is better and for me that's a hard thing to accept as I would normally say "Super Size it", give me the 60 AMP model. My biggest concern is placement of the DC/DC, not sure if it should be mounted in the trailer or the tow vehicle.

@wizdumb420 3 жыл бұрын

Hi Thanks for the info... got a question for ya... What is the second smaller red wire on the Output side of the DC-to-DC Charger?

@RVwithTito 3 жыл бұрын

Gonna make me watch the video. Hold on.....Yeah it's just powering my cooling fan in that compartment.

@wizdumb420 3 жыл бұрын

@@RVwithTito Hey thanks, Man!

@ricklarson114 3 жыл бұрын

I also have the E450 with a solenoid (or contractor). I have a couple other wires leading from one of the terminals, one is for the CB radio and the other may be for the regular radio. I want to get the DC to DC charger before switching to lithium, but not sure on the proper way to wire. Any ideas? Would a battery isolator work any better than the charger? Thanks for your great videos!

@RVwithTito 3 жыл бұрын

I'll be the CB and Radio are wired to the house battery side of the relay so they don't draw down the chassis battery. If you remove the relay, you'll want to re-attach those to the house side of the DC charger.

@michaelcanto6175 3 жыл бұрын

Hey Brian, Will this also convert 24v supply to the 12v power needs in the rv?

@dainius2082 3 жыл бұрын

Indeed do Tito uses another DCDC converter 24V to 12V to convert back:)

@krupajk 2 жыл бұрын

I have a very similar motor home. I changed the converter charger to the one you recommended. The DC to DC charger seems a bit complex so I’m thinking of just disconnecting the positive cable that runs from the chassis battery to the house. Will the generator start with just the house battery? Any other issues (other than not having the cab battery charge the lithium batteries) I need to be aware of?