Cheers Mat, good to know that you happy with it. I have a huge selection of drives but almost no 230V input rated ones as i usually run with my transformer setup to get 440V single phase into the drives. As for yourself, the price was very attractive (£108 for the 3kW version) so i thought i'll give it a try. The target application is a bit challenging, it is not a motor and the VFD will see frequent overloads with ramp times close to zero. I am also going to use it for testing your motor, saves me re-programming one of my 400V units.

Thanks, ... I use this one in my 3-phase MIG welder as i have only a single phase supply. The setup was a bit of trial and error but it's doing well now, I made a video about that as well, just look for "the supercharged MIG welder" . I also got a 4kW version of this VFD now, looks a bit different, so that's a candidate for a tear down as well,... if i ever find the time for it ...

Thanks, much appreciated.

Thanks ... You absulutely right, for consumer applications it's just fine. It's certainly not designed for industrial use. I bought mine for a non-motor application, shouldn't take too long until i reveal what it is for,.... btw. i am missing progress on your shaper, want to see chips flying ...:-)

I've been working away so i haven't spent as much time in the shed as i have wanted too, but i can tell you this - the chips 'ring' when they hit the floor!!!

Hi, you're welcome. It depends on the drive, most industrial types use 0-10V demand signals, but some of these chinese ones give you a choice of either 0 to 5V or 0 to 10V full range. Connection is easy, ground of your DAC goes to control voltage ground of the drive, your DAC output goes to the speed demand input, often signed as the wiper of a pot. The 5V or 10V control voltage output from the drive will be left alone. You also may need to switch run input and direction input with some relays. It is also advisabe to put a capacitor of a few 100nF across your DAC output, helps to keep the noise away from your microprocessor . Pease bear in mind that mains voltage is dangerous, you may need an appropriate qualification to work on such systems.

Well spotted,... 73, Mike

That was the first thing I noticed, I have an old TS-820 sitting on my bench. Just got a 7.5 KW cheap chinese inverter to try. Looking for info on it.

You're welcome, thanks for watching. Well, honestly i don't know for sure, but considering what's there in parameters, how it behaves and not at least the price, i'd say most likely not, looks more like a textbook V/F design to me. Still got the 4kW version sitting on the bench waiting for a tear down, what's concerning is that it weighs less than the 3kW version ....

I'm getting a 2.2kW vfd that look a lot like yours but is branded WK-9000 and does have vectoring. It might come from the same factory or the Chinese are starting to clone themselves :) It's going to replace my old allen-bradley 0.75 kW drive that makes the lathe motor whine like dying pig.

I think i've seen your model somewhere and remember reading something abut vector control, ...not tested one of these but flux vector control is only as good as the (sensorless) rotor position determination algorithm and that works best with a pretty fast DSP which usually costs money... and don't expect that flux vector control makes it quieter - nope it does not. Need to look that thing up, what did you pay for ? Btw.. the noise comes from the switching frequency, on Allen Bradley drives you can change it easily and the thing goes quieter, downside is that you may need to derate it above 6kHz. Don't expect the Chinese thing to be quiet, from what i've seen they run on 3kHz by default, anything higher requires derating, ......as usual, you get what you pay for. For the right price I would happily buy that AB 0.75 kW off you, but shipping is probably the killer.

My AB is pretty old. Its a type 1333 and I believe it got introduced in the late 80s, probably a slow DSP and no option to change the carrier frequency. I was given 6 or 7 of them and they all still work fine. I do wonder if any of those Chinese drives will still work after that much time has passed. I'm getting my drive from banggood and they are actually sending me one to review. I'm not an electrician so I'm spending the evening reading the chinglish manual and watching a bit of KZfaq :) But it should be a problem to get it running in V/F mode. I do wonder about my motor since the new drive van supply 3 times the power. Anyhow, it's going to be fun to try this thing out :)

Thanks for spotting that, i did not really look at it as i was only interested in the output stage ratings. I am going to use this with short but frequent overload spikes and very steep ramp times (it's not a motor), so better to know what's really in it.

Generally speaking yes, for 2 reasons... 1st for piece in mind as we don't really know if those cheap things are rated for continous operation at full load But if you buy a 0.75kW vfd for your 0.75kW motor you don't need to program anything because the drive limits are the motor limits, plug and play for consumers (sort of, but not really) ... and 2nd,... if you go one size bigger you get more current capacity, allowing for higher overload. Motor name plates usually state continous ratings, any induction motor can do at least 125% in a 50% S6 cycle (non vintage motors only) For workshop machines (mills/drills/lathes) i set the max overload to around 150% with a 1 or 2 minute limit, it just provides that little extra torque when you push a bit too hard. Bear in mind that a motor is essentially a big heatsink, therefore moderate overload is fine as long as your average over a specific time period (usually 6 minutes) does not exceed the continous rating. Welders are a very good example, they usually state a duty cycle a high Amp settings, if it says 50%, thats 3 minutes on and 3 off.. As long as you program your VFD with the right numbers, even double of the motor rating will be fine. How much you can squeeze out depends mostly on the motor and also a bit on the drive , .. some are better, some worse, some junk, you get what you pay for. .... Thanks for subscribing.

Thanks, that's some really useful information. I feel more confident about what to buy and what to do with it now.dynoguy

Hi Alan, thanks for watching. Well, as mentioned earlier, you get what you pay for and your Mitsubishis are far superior, that/s for sure. No problem, happy to help if i can. You can contact me via prvate message here on YT , if you include an email address i will send a reply to it... May i ask what's your country of living ? ... .cheers, Mike

It's actually doing very well, i use (well, rather abuse..) it in my MIG welder. Got a video about it, just search for "the supercharged MIG welder" if you like to see it.

sorry, don't know, ... just do an educated guess and try, it's not really critical as they just prevent from high inrush current

@@dynoguy that is what I did. Two 3.3k resistors 3w. However the opto isolated failed now and waiting for a new one.

Kind of curious what will you be using the motor for actual propulsion or to just pump water?

Yes it is possible but you need some electrical skills, how to wire a speed control pot should be described in your VFD instruction manual.

thanks, how about the factory installed potentiometer, is it need to disable

You usually can disable the internal pot via a parameter, just select "external reference" or something like that. As i don't know what drive you use i am unable tell you what the parameter # is. Then connect your pot to the external reference terminals and it should work.

dynoguy, much appreciated. thank you

you're welcome, thanks for watching

Well, the engineering is not always better than expected, just watch the mixer video.... but i agree, safety is always a concern. Lead is toxic, yes,... but if you apply a bit of common sense it is not particulary dangerous, during the last 40 years i ( and many other people) regulary used PbSn solder because that's what we had .... that lead free stuff is not exactly a good substitute and you cannot use it to repair old electronics either..... just an old ass opinion. Just received a 4kW version, we'll have a look into this one soon as well, because it seems to be a bit different to the 3kW version here.

lol,....they everywhere here ...:-)

Yes, it is. I also recently got the 4kW version of it and it feels surprisingly light compared to the 3kW version in the video. So i soon will take that apart as well.

My 4kw 380v version smoked in first start. It starts fine but during start warming it shut down. In main board part d36 seems melt down. Do you know What it is?

I don't think we are brothers, .... but feel free to say what your problem is.

You absolutely right, this is a throw-away consumer product targeting users who just want to spin a motor on the cheap. I would certainly not use this thing in an industrial application as it simply isn't designed for such. A Parker 890 or Yaskawa A1000 series will cost about 3 to 5 times, depending on options, but they come with decent handling software, realtime monitoring capabilities and top notch reliability. I have seen some of these running flat out 24/7 for many years with no trouble whatsoever. As always,...you get what you pay for, so for the price tag and understanding what it's made for, that thing is pretty ok.

Yup, okay for home use, but, I would not dare fit it and guarantee it in some commercial environment, Nice video, I will never need to use one of those controllers in the future, but its nice to see what is available, Take care, J.

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Well, they cheap and cheerful, nothing more. I am spoiled from the big industrial stuff as i play with those for a living. You certainly won't get a new 3kW Powerflex 40 at $50, and if it's on ebay for that price it's probably shot, at least here in the UK. Anyway, 1000 hours is a long time for a hobby user, so i think they have their place, as long as you aware of the limitations

@@dynoguy you must be a VFD repair tech like me. Make sure you get a FLIR in your toolbox, its been my secret weapon for fixing gate firing boards. Fixed a cog due to a bad cap on a PowerFlex 700 PINT last week thanks to my FLIR. By the way, you can power PINT1 and PINT2 boards by providing DC Bus voltage from an external power source allowing troubleshooting without SCR's, Caps, or IGBT's in the circuit.

@@dynoguy my boss would sell me refurbs for less than $50 I am sure. We have about 30 on the shelf. However you are correct considering I have a rare connection.

Well,, sort of.i am working in the automotive testing industry and play alot with rather larger regeneration units up to approx 1MW,... i do have a FLIR One and use it quite often for electronics, but also for bearing issues, etc

sorry, don't understand what you mean. Try again in Spanish.