Hahaha yes, I'm something else alright. lol The Cruzes shown in these videos weren't mine. I was just the lucky guy working on them! Thank you for watching!

Good pointers. Thanks, Terry!

Glad i read this, it answered a question about the oiling on the turbo. and.. that makes so much sense about putting the tube on the turbo

is the “oil drain line with the 2 bolts” you’re referencing, the ones he had to make his ratchet contraption to put in on the bottom? i was trying to figure out how i was gonna get that done with no lift and just jack stands

Happy to help! Thanks for watching!

Awesome step-by-step writeup!

Damn

Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!

Good pointer! Since I've done this video I've had to do a few more and was able to pull the tube out on one car, but here in the rust belt of upstate NY the rest have been rusted in so they wouldn't pull out. Impossible bolts it is! Glad the video helped. Thanks for watching!

Thanks! I try my best!

How'd it go?

@@toxictex6603 Sadly no auto place in my town had the camshaft lock pins so I just ordered them on Amazon & they'll be here Friday. Already have everything else off, so I just have to lock it to TDC, undo the timing chain bolts, undo the head bolts then swap & repeat in reverse. If you're looking at doing this, just know you'll have to pay $51.99 for new head bolts when you get the gasket.

@@toxictex6603 I received my lock pins today, so I'll be updating later on tonight! Hopefully yours goes well too!

You're very welcome. Happy to help! Thanks for watching!

@@madebycarrera7585Annnd?!? What happened?! Are you still alive?

Happy to help. Thanks for watching!

They just recalled them if you're under 150,000K

@@JJ-fd5pwis the recall specifically for turbo? I've got a little chatter/rattle that just developed in mine a day or so ago. Sitting at right around 69k miles

Gotta love those rusty manifold bolts! I've had a few come out with the studs and I was able to just put them right back in. Road salt is really hard on cars! Glad the video helped. Thanks for watching!

I also had 2 manifold bolts come out. How do I reinstall the original bolts without stripping the block threads?

Glad you're enjoying it! They do have their problems, but at least they are relatively easy to work on.

Glad I could save you some time! Thanks for watching!

Excellent pointer! I hate reconnecting that darn drain tube! Thanks for watching and for your tip!

Great video, of course I'm dealing with same codes after I installed a like new turbo and made sure all the lines aren't leaking...my code P2999 did not go away, ...so my concerns are I also replaced a blown head gasket (should've got it resurfaced but I checked with straight edge...got turbo from someone that tried to do this job and I guess failed...I got it for Discount nevertheless it was uninstalled new. Is there something I'm missing?, The car has a coolant issue as well I've changed all sensors but idk It did over heat 1st test drive, ..I can only think a vacuum leak maybe on turbo line or crossed vacuum lines?any help thanks

@Lake Overview Hi, I don't know if you meant to ask me or the creator of the video, but I'll offer my opinion, just don't take it as gospel. With the combination of symptoms you're mentioning, it sounds like you may want to recheck that head gasket job. But if that turns out to be fine, the only thing I could think of for the turbo would be to ask if you reused the same oil lines with the new turbo, especially the oil feed line on top. I made the fatal mistake of reusing my old one (apparently it was clogged) on my new turbo and let's just say I'm on my third turbo now. For the cooling system overheating, did you go through the correct process of bleeding the radiator and topping off the coolant while the car is running with the heat on? Did you replace the thermostat and water pump when you replaced the head gasket? Not sure how necessary it is, but it never hurts. My head gasket blew because I went wayyy too long in between oil changes. I couldn't tell because the oil never leaked, but it was gulping coolant and overheating. I should have known then because I could never find a leak comparable to the amount of coolant I was going through. Then my turbo went out because of what I'm assuming was a sludge clogged oil feed line. I didn't know that at the time and I reused it, like I mentioned earlier, and blew the second turbo too. The day I pulled my dipstick and my oil was creamed colored, I finally had to accept that my head gasket was blown and I parked it until I could replace it. (Which was about 3 levels above my pay grade.) So, from my personal experience, I'd say double check that new head gasket or have it checked. If it's not that, try the other stuff I mentioned. That's about the range of my expertise.

@@robertmiller9491 hi and thanks for your feedback I appreciate any, yes I did use old lines but at first I did blow lines out, then videos are saying to replace so I did,rather my wife did...I also did do the coolant procedure correctly , it wasn't until I started to listen to Spanish mechanics on here is were I found gold, one mechanic had a scanner hooked up and found lots of information regarding this issue of mine and well the turbo system, it was on a newer Cruze but the tech does metion all years/and possible items being change or diagnosed in order to fix issues with turbo system...I hope other find it helpful it's kinda long video but trust you'll screenshot like crazy at the info seen Oh so I what I found was my Cruze needed to be reprogrammed..to make it short I'll also post timestamp when I found my next step.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y6eWo9ibp5_TnKM.html Time stamp is 10:06 step number 8/9/10 Thumbs up if it helps would be cool thing to do

That's not a terrible price. Good to know! Thanks for watching!

So let's say you have a recall on the turbo because of wastage problems from the production line. They put the new turbo in for free. Per the recall... and then charge you $188 for the hoses. Would you agree with that or not?

@@derekdidier7164 Did you receive an answer on your question? I am wanting to know the answer to your question too.

I'm adding this update for the people thinking buying a Dorman turbo. It's been only 7000 miles and about 8 months and my dorman turbo has failed. I believe it is the wastegate sticking that's causing the po299 code. It feels shot. I'm tearing it out now. Yes it has a lifetime warranty but it needs replacement every 7000 miles is it really worth it? I hate this Chevy cruze! It's by far the worst car I've ever owned! It breaks constantly. My 05 cobalt runs like a top compared to my Cruze. I love that cobalt.

What model number dorman turbo from AutoZone did you buy?

You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

I *believe* it was 3/8's hose. It doesn't matter if it is a perfect fit, just needs to go over the nipple a little bit to guide the coolant. Thanks for watching, and I'm glad it helped!

@@3DayWeekend Thanks again brother. Watched a ton of videos before tackling this and yours was my saving grace.

there's no check engine light on my car replaced spark plugs with AC delco

I was going to ask the same. Thanks

That's what I did - 8mm with an extension and a swivel! I have also lost one in the crevice right next to the oil pan. It was a PAIN to fish it out of there. A magnet, a mirror, a screwdriver, and half an eternity to get it out, but I got it. On the most recent job, I could not get that bolt started for the life of me. I ended up taking the exhaust clamp back off and took off the bolts that hold the catalyst in place so I could get a better angle on it. That helped quite a bit. I can usually get it, but this last car would not cooperate!

Thanks!

You don't need to prime the coolant. Just be sure it is full to the top of the reservoir, and crack the vent on the radiator (engine side of it on the passenger side - white plastic plug with a philips screw head on it) until coolant comes out, then close it back up. I do prime the oil though by disconnecting the ignition coil and cranking it over for a while. I'll crank it for 30 seconds maybe 4 times, then plug it in and let 'er rip!

@@3DayWeekend I held the gas pedal to the floor and turned it over, it seemed to turn once then go into a -fake- start till I let off the gas. Saw someone say that in one of the comments somewhere.. Seemed to work just fine. Though.. if you only undo the ignition coil woudln't fuel still spray in? er.. i just let it run till the coolent lowered turned off added and repeated

I don't remember off-hand, but I believe it was around 115 in-lbs or so. They aren't as tight as you would think. I have also had more than one break on me. When they are taken off, the back side has to flex which weakens it so when you tighten it down, it'll let loose.

I didn't, and it was fine. However, the politically correct answer would be to ALWAYS pre-oil your turbo! You can hook up the oil drain line, get a funnel, and pour some oil down into the turbo that way just for peace of mind. In my opinion (and I'm sure people will tell me how wrong I am), the turbo and engine are small, it should have some sort of lubrication in there from the factory, you aren't going to cold-rev the engine, and it will only take a few seconds for oil to reach the turbo, so I wouldn't worry about it. Definitely doesn't hurt through. How's that for a non-committal answer? Lol Thanks for watching and for the comment!

Thank you 👍

Of course, I would officially recommend not driving it at all with a check engine light on. It is possible that you will overfuel the engine due to the lack of air which could cause damage to your catalytic converter. However... this car had that light on for a couple months and it was fine (but it wasn't driven every day during that time). Thank you for watching and for your compliments!

Yes, if you remove all the manifold bolts you can pull it forward slightly slide it through. It's a tight fit, but it will go. I've forgotten before as well!

Ok. Thanks for posting the answer, as it may help someone else!

A grinding noise? That's bad news... The turbo oil feed line (or oil pressure line) is a common failure point. It can be come clogged which will starve the turbo for oil. I haven't heard of an oil pump or oil filter housing as a point of failure in these engines, but it is definitely possible. I would start with the oil pressure line and go from there. It's pretty easy to replace.

They call that the exhaust clamp, some call it a v-band clamp. It should be available at most auto part stores. Your local Chevy dealer can definitely get you the correct part. Just be sure to specify that it is the clamp between the exhaust manifold and turbo, not an exhaust clamp further downstream. I've been right there with you and broke one as well! Fortunately I found one at my local salvage yard!

OEM. I purchased the one in this video from my local Chevy dealer.

I hope you don't either! Thanks for watching!

No, not really. The head is before the turbo so the exhaust is pushing everything away from it. If the turbo did have some sort of internal failure, it would have to be leaking coolant into the intake side, through the charge pipes and intercooler, and back into the intake and combustion chambers. That would be a long journey!

Is your exhaust manifold in good condition? V-band in one piece? You likely have an exhaust leak somewhere.

Interesting.... I've done a few and they were all T-45. Maybe they used something different in early/late years. Good tip! And yes, the dealership is going to be the most expensive for sure. I just didn't want to take a chance on an aftermarket part, especially since this isn't my car!

I don't know that there would be a way to know "for sure" if it has been replaced. Usually a check engine line with an "underboost" code would suggest that there may be an issue with it. Outside of that, taking it off and doing a thorough inspection would be the only other way.

The shop manual says that this job should take roughly 2 hours to complete, but that is not including any issues, such as rusty manifold bolts or seized connections. Figure a good 4 hours of labor to be safe. The rest of the cost will be parts. There are some cheap ones available out there, but I went OEM on this one. Hope that helps!

I don't remember for sure, but I think it was around 70k. Be sure to check the coolant level frequently, as these cars are prone to leaking in various locations. The head gasket is the weak points of this engine. One overheat and you'll be looking at a head gasket job. They are good little cars, but the engine could have been better.

I've heard people say $1500, but that was a dealership with OEM parts.

When in doubt, your local dealer or NAPA can get you the right stuff. The Chevy's are picky about coolant, so you'll want to be sure you get the GM compatible stuff. Walmart has some pre-mixed coolant/antifreeze that is compatible with all makes and models so you could use that.

@@3DayWeekend just finished wenesday, took me i kid you not 16 hrs dismantling and redoing it on my trax. Everythinf was so much harder to get to even from the bottom. Spent like 30 mins on the bolt to the collent return tub turning it 1/8th turn each time and flipping wrench as i onlu had about a 2 inch gap reaching from under after taking part of black wheel hub guard odd and coming from the aide aa the alternator or um.. something else big and metal was righr up against it

I believe it was a quarter inch inside diameter, but it was VERY tight. 3/8 might fit a little easier.

I did not, but you can if it worries you. I'd just hook up the drain tube and funnel some oil into the inlet port first. No big deal. The service manual does not say that it is required in this scenario, but it wouldn't hurt! Great question. Thanks for watching!

​@@3DayWeekendwhere u get the turbo from

It's going to be tight... The exhaust studs are pretty long so the turbo needs to move back pretty far to get clear. You might be able to get away with loosening the two catalyst mounting bolts and disconnecting the oil and coolant lines, but that's pretty much everything anyway so at that point you could pull the turbo.

No link. I got this one from my local Chevy dealer. I definitely paid a shiny penny for it, but I didn't want to get a cheaper one and have it fail later on.

Good luck to you! I hope it all goes smoothly! It took me a couple evenings to take it off and a few hours to get it back on there. I've had to do it so many times on other cars that now I can do the whole job in under 2 hours. The hardest part is the rear 8mm drain tube bolt under the turbo. The 17mm banjo bolt for the coolant that goes into the block is a close 2nd. It's harder to take those off than it is to put them on for sure!

@@3DayWeekend Hello! I actually was able to do this funny enough on a 3Day Weekend. The hardest part for me definitely was putting on that 17 mm coolant line. I found out that if you get under the car you can see the bolt and the plug and you can alight it easier and tighten it from the front. Wow that’s fast for this job I think combined it took me around 6 hours as I wanted to take it nice and easy but she is all good🙌🏼

Any oil that got on it should cook off after a good drive. If it's still smoking after driving it for a few days, you probably have a leak somewhere.

@@3DayWeekend youre right it was a customers car actually gave it a good 2 day drive and it stopped smoking thanks alot man

No, typically a faulty turbo will not smoke externally, unless it has sustained catastrophic failure in the housing causing it to crack (which I have never seen on these turbos).

They are, but those darn walls are so thin, I've never been able to get one off with a torx. Maybe down south they are less rusty, but up here you're lucky if they don't fall apart! Thanks for watching!

@@3DayWeekend heads up you put 10 mm long socket on the nut an run long torx through the socket this keeps from damaging the nut

Agreed. That is a common failure point, especially if the prior owner(s) weren't good about regular oil changes.

I got it straight from the dealer. There are some cheaper alternatives out there, but I didn't want to risk it and replaced it with OEM. Thanks for watching!

I don't remember seeing a pin... Maybe it is internal to the Turbo. All of the bad turbos that I have seen were bad due to cracking/warping, which would bind the turbine.

@@3DayWeekend oh okay. I wish I could tell you which video or videos I saw that in.

It could be... unless it's coming from more towards the passenger side. The water pump is over on the passenger side and can leak if bad. I'd pressure test the system and let it sit for a bit. As long as it leaks while cold or hot, it should leave a puddle which you can trace to the source.

I just did mine last night finally. It took forever. My was just leaking coolant from those lines. If GM had put a brake line type fitting, you wouldn't need to remove the turbo. Just the skirting & the cat. It uses a special tool for removal. Fuel line quick connect tools don't work. When my turbo was out I just bent one of those lines up a little & removed them. I replaced both of them. You will need new quick connects anyways. Also all seals & new brass manifold nuts. Those extra add up in a hurry. The nut set is $30 alone Hope that helps

I'm having trouble after car is hot it's bucking then straightens out not sure what it is new spark plugs tired of soaking lots of money into this car replaced wheel bearing and oil cooler line, part behind exhaust manifold , value cover gasket , front pads and rotors the list goes on good luck on this car. Any information would be appreciated thanks

@@dancurrier6421 Is there any codes set or is the check engine light on? Usually bucking like that is a ignition problem like a spark plug or bad coil. Did you use AC Delco plugs? Those GM cars seem to like those plugs the best for some reason.

@@pontiacsrule8761 no check engine light on new AC delco spark plugs

OEM for sure. The job was hard enough that I wouldn't want to do it again!

It very well could be, but I wouldn't 100% guarantee it. It is possible to have a bad sensor causing it, but since the turbo is a common failure on these engines, it is highly likely.

Haha yes! That turbo is a PAIN. The rest isn't terrible, but those manifold bolts and drain bolts - hate them!

Go to your local dealership and get part numbers, I am going thru this right now on a 2013 Cruze, I ordered the turbo from rock auto. No core charge $470 for the turbo assembly, you get the v-band clamp, new manifold gasket, and new exhaust manifold nuts. Dealership items I purchased were the oil supply tube. Both coolant lines and oil drain tube.

@@terrybaremor6361 gotcha. Thank you

I believe the one you're referring to is called the Turbo Coolant Drain Tube.

@@3DayWeekend thank you, I had to order it from GM and fixed it fortunately!

My garage, my rules! haha

I replaced mine with an OEM replacement, which I picked up from my local dealership for around $600 with tax if I recall correctly. They had all the parts in stock so I didn't have to wait for one to ship. I would also recommend replacing the exhaust manifold nuts if yours are rusty. As you can see from the video, I had a couple of bad ones. There are some cheaper turbos available online from Amazon and eBay, but I cannot speak to their reliability.

No, not really. There is plenty of space in there to work while leaving the radiator in place. It could be removed at that point if desired though. Thanks for watching!

I listed a few. The top two would be the check engine light for low/high boost and a drastic loss of power.

I didn't check, but I always replace the line for good measure. A plugged oil feed line is typically the root cause of a failing turbo on these engines.

Sorry, I don't have that car anymore!

I bought mine directly from my local Chevy dealer. I believe at the time it was roughly $700. There are cheaper options out there, but I can't speak to their longevity.

I don't recall exactly, and the prices go up and down. I want to say it was about $500 for all the parts.

For the oil drain tube? No, the gasket makes the seal. No need for silicone on it.

Sorry to hear that! I'm not familiar with any plastic in the turbo, so that's really strange to hear. Hopefully they get that all straightened out for you soon!

Excellent! I'm sure it was cheaper than the dealership. Thanks for watching!

Yes and no, depends on where you live. In the rust belt, the exhaust bolts rust pretty badly so any attempts to remove them will likely result in snapping them off. I did this job on a southern car and the cat bolts came out pretty easily, leaving me plenty of space to put the turbo oil drain bolts in. However, I struggled to get the cat back into place once I was done. In the end, I'm getting pretty good at lining the drain bolts up with the right extension, so I probably won't remove the cat again.

Poor power, poor fuel economy. Worst case scenario your engine will run rich because it's not getting as much as as it should, and the catalytic converter could clog up. If that happens, it'll double your repair bill. I know they are pricey, but I would highly recommend getting it done as soon as possible!

I have not pre-lubed any of these turbos and they have been fine. However, the oil charge line connection is the large torx banjo bolt right on the top. You could pour some oil down through there if you wanted.

Mine was a noticeable lack of power and a check engine light with the "underboost" code.

Yes it would, and believe it or not, it's on my wish list right now! I was going to get it just for me, but it would be nice to use it in tight spots for future videos. Great advice! Thanks!

No, I don't believe so. Unfortunately I would suspect rings / pistons / block. Your first test should be a compression check then go from there. Hopefully it's not too serious!

You are good! I believe it had 122K at the time of this repair. Good suggestion, I'll mention that in future videos!

@@3DayWeekend That oil cap leaks (& sprays) under boost. The upgraded is taller & has a baffle to keep oil DOWN where it belongs.

Sorry, I don't have that car anymore!

It sure did! Runs like a champ!

Possibly... You can get to everything, it can just be difficult to find the tool with the correct reach!

I've heard of them failing pretty quickly. Of the reviews I've read, some people had issues again within 500 miles.

Doing it myself for the first time? I'd say maybe 4 hours or so. It all depends if those manifold bolts come out...

I got mine from my local Chevy dealer. There are cheaper options on Amazon, Ebay, etc., but I can not speak to their compatibility and longevity.

Which lines, the turbo coolant lines?

@@3DayWeekend yessir

Definitely seems to be a common failure point! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

This was done first. It was throwing codes for a bad turbo so naturally I just replaced it. After the new turbo was installed and it was running great again, that's when I noticed the white smoke out the tailpipe, which is why the original turbo had failed. Yeah, live and learn! This Cruze definitely tried my patience, but I got her going again!

Good pointer. I haven't had that issue yet, but it's only a matter of time on these engines... they love to leak!

Oh, that's interesting. I haven't had a cracked manifold yet, but I've definitely had a bad turbo. But yes, if you're right there, it's easier to just do them both! I'm glad you're having good luck with the aftermarket parts. I've heard some do and some don't. I wimped out and went OEM. haha Thanks for watching!

Agreed. Definitely a good tip as a preventative measure, and they aren't that difficult to remove.

You know... I just never really have good luck with extraction sets. Maybe I should give them a shot before I jump right into shaving the part down and grabbing it with pliers! haha And yes, I realized that with the connector later on. I assumed they were an older type that MOPAR used to use but realized they were push-to-release when I was putting them back on. Thanks for watching and for keeping me honest!

Thanks for sharing. This was my first time pulling the turbo off one of these engines, so I was not confident at all! Since this video that was made a couple of years ago, I've pulled countless turbos so if I were to do another video, it would be much more streamlined, and I have learned some "best practices" along the way. Believe it or not, a good number of people prefer a video format where it feels like "we're in this together as we figure it out", according to the video analytics. I experiment with all kinds of approaches in my videos - direct and to the point, and completely winging it. Some do better than others and I can adjust. I appreciate your feedback. I always take it under consideration for future releases. For your two remarks - yes, I do fill the turbo with oil once I connect the drain tube. That is definitely something that everyone should do. Alternatively, I'll disconnect the coil pack and crank it for a bit to get the oil flowing, especially after doing a head gasket or something major. For the coolant - I have since found that there is a drain plug in the radiator with a nipple for attaching a hose. When doing this job now, I'll attach a hose to that and run it into a clean jug so I can put it right back in when I'm done. No waste at all, and no need for more coolant! All good suggestions, and together we can all improve. I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment on the video. Have a good one!

Oh wow! I haven't heard that sound! This one didn't make any noise when it actually failed. It just lost power and threw the code. Hopefully you're able to get it up and running again!

@@3DayWeekend working on it this weekend. There's a lot of oil on the front side of the engine where the crankshaft pulley and all that is. I didn't get an overpressure code but my boost sensor could be bad. I've got everything loose except that one hidden bolt on the oil return.

I hate that line. I've gotten pretty good at it though. My 6" extension fits in there perfectly. If you hold the light just right, you can see it. Still. Not my favorite. It's harder to put it back in than it is to take it out!

The A/C bracket is on the way! I had to do do it barely with the fingers and then a wrench.

Oh, I agree, these 1.4's are terrible. Easy to work on, but constant issues. Heads, turbos, overheating, rings, coolant housing, water pumps... lots of common failures. I'm about tired of working on Cruzes! Thanks for watching!

Eso no suena bien... No lo ejecutaría más. Deberías llevarlo a un taller para que lo diagnostiquen.

You'll know if it does! Typically it will start with power surges, then the check engine light for low boost. It's not a bad job, as long as the exhaust manifold bolts aren't rusted too bad. Thanks for watching!

Oh really.... They must have changed that recently. My replacement came with a T45 but that was a while ago. Are they still torx? Is it a step bigger or a step smaller?

Even better... Upstate New York! The salt is TERRIBLE!

It is possible to delete a turbo from a car, but it would require having someone tune the computer or quite possibly replacing the computer with an aftermarket one (depending on the limitations of the software in the computer itself), then have that computer tuned. Either of those options would be more expensive and time consuming than replacing the turbo. If you have a faulty turbo, the only way to fix it properly and ensure the engine operates correctly is to replace the turbo.

And they are tiny little things. Not a lot of surface area to dissipate the heat...

I wish we didn't use salt on the roads. Vehicles rust so quickly on the rust belt!

@@3DayWeekend Im in rust central and still have fewer rusted fasteners. My doors and rocker panels are a different story. lol

Great! Unfortunately I wasn't as fortunate on this one. Thanks for watching!

Sounds good! We just wanted this one back to stock.

New York. That's why. If the temp falls below 36 degrees and there is even a tiny chance that there will be precipitation, DOT throws salt down on all the roads. Salt eats our cars. Typically the engines outlast the bodies of the cars. It's terrible. Nice cars can only be driven in the summer, then the "winter beaters" come out for salt season.

Oh, man. 6 months? That's awful! Was it an OEM replacement or an Ebay special?