Thanks for watching. Very happy to hear the video was helpful!

I agree. I've had this catch can for several years now; still very happy with this purchase.

It entered the can as oil vapors. The filter media helps strip the oil vapors out of the air, and it condenses in the bottom of the can. So it's dirty oil with some fuel vapors too. Definitely not what you want pumping back through your intake manifold!

Thanks! keep it up!

Scruf's Garage Sooo my question for you is your oil level reducing much? You explained that the liquid is oil vapor, how does that translate into oil usage? By the way, it was very helpful, I never knew that much vapor was blowing thru the system. I have a 02 C-5 and would be very interested in installing this system. What did you spend for it? Thanks, Bob

Yes, a catch can is always a good idea. But keep in mind that with a forced induction system you'll need a a slightly different setup. You'll need a check valve to keep the boost from pressurizing the catch can and back feeding into the crankcase.

In the stock configuration, the driver's side valve cover is tied to the passenger side VC with a crossover line that runs behind the intake. Then the front port on the passenger side VC connects into the inlet of the catch can, and the outlet connects to the port on the intake manifold behind the throttle body. The clean side separator connects to the port on the TB that pulls air from in front of the throttle body. No hood clearance issues with the clean side separator. When I changed to the LS6 pcv system and the LS2 throttle body, I needed to change my connection points. I made a separate video for that. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ha2hY8eZ2bbcYmw.html Hope that helps!

@@ScrufsGarage Yes , it does help, thank you. I have seen your other video. It's particularly informative, because it's the next logical step in my C5 evolution. Just a thought, how can the front drivers side rocker port be considered the "clean side" ? When left unfiltred, say as in the stock configuration, or with no catch can, it's anything but clean, as it is positioned right above a rocker arm. PS. Why not do a video plumbing your steam lines into the water pump housing. I found your steam port video particularly clever , especially your use of the truck steam line in the back. I just think that it would have been the perfect end to a great mod. As a novice in the LS world, (but not in the hotrod world) , I thank you for putting out such a high quality series of videos on the LS1 in the C5.

Based on what I have seen from other folks, that is a fairly common amount of blow-by with these engines. If you shine a light into your intake manifold, you may be surprised how much oily residue is in there. Of course, it is worth noting that I showed the amount after a track event. So the car was driven significantly harder than you would see in normal street driving, so that certainly amplifies the amount collected. Thanks for watching!

Yes, I far as I know the install should be the same. I am still very happy with mine! Best of luck.

The catch can is one kit, and the clean air separator is a different kit.

John Giordimaina the oil filler cap is a separate kit for the "clean side." You can run just the catch can in the pcv line if you like; that's where most of the benefit is. However under WOT there's very little vacuum in the intake manifold, so the clean side line kicks in and pulls vacuum from in front of the throttle plate. Having the filtered filler cap helps strip oil vapors from the crank case vapors on the clean side.

No hissing noise. If you're getting that, you might have a vacuum leak somewhere? I believe they have instructions on their website, or I'm sure you could email them if you have a specific question. And hopefully this video was helpful too! Thanks for watching!

Happy to share. Thanks for watching!

When you go WOT, the vacuum inside the intake manifold drops very low, so the main catch can isn't very functional (it pulls vacuum from the intake, behind the throttle blade). The clean side separator is then pulling vacuum from in front of the throttle blade. The media in the clean side separator helps strip any oil vapors from the air coming out of the valve cover and keeps it from spraying through the TB and intake manifold.

I've been very happy with it. I've had it almost 3 years now and no issues. The materials and machining are top notch. The only thing I wish it has was a drain valve, since it is a little annoying to unscrew the bottom canister. But honestly it's not that big of a deal.

Yes I believe so, but I recommend double checking the part # for your application on the Elite Engineering website just to make sure.

Clean side is not open to the atmosphere; it pulls from the intake tube before the throttle body. At wide open throttle, vacuum in the intake manifold drops, so the that’s when the clean side helps provide vacuum from the intake tube. Hope that helps.

Hard to say without seeing it. Is the hose slightly too long? If so, you might be able to trim a little off the hose to relieve the kink.

Muh Har I believe the clean air separator you'll need is the CSS1but double check with EE to confirm. Im very happy with my setup. All top quality pieces. Function very well. Go for it!

Thank you sir, you helped a brother out today, lol

Brutality110 the media is actually a shredded aluminum material, so very unlikely to ever get clogged. I would NOT reuse the collected oil as it will likely have fuel contamination in it.

Scruf's Garage Thanks for the info. this setup would probably be good for my tvs2300 ls1 setup. the catchcan would keep the oil from diluting and lowering the octane rating of the gas

The clean air side - ie. the new oil filler cap - goes to the port on the TB. That would be the same whether it's an LS1 or an LS6. The LS6 vents crankcase pressure through a port on the valley cover instead of the valve covers. So the line from the valley cover port would go to the catch can, and then from there to the intake manifold port. I'm in the process of rebuilding my motor, and one of the mods will be changing over to the LS6 valley cover. So I'll do a video on how I hook up my catch can. (will be a few months out tho).

@@ScrufsGarage did you ever do that LS6 video. It's been awhile. I just want to double check my lines are right. Thanks

Ya know, I didn't. I'll try to shoot a quick video of my current setup soon. I swapped to the Dorman LS2 intake manifold, which uses the LS2 90mm TB. The LS2 TB doesn't have a clean side port like the LS1/6 TB did. So I drilled a hole in my intake tube (air bridge) and added a vacuum port, which is where I now connect my clean side vacuum line.

@@ScrufsGarage oh , i'd really like to see that! Considering Im in the market for that throttle body!

Sorry for the delay but I finally uploaded the video I did to show how I routed the lines for the LS6 valley cover and LS2 throttle body. Hope this helps. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ha2hY8eZ2bbcYmw.html

The catch can is in line with the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system. The PCV system is the traditional method used to vent pressure from the crankcase. But in doing so, as that air routes back into the intake, it often carries a lot of oil. The catch can helps strip any oil out before it goes into the intake. So the catch can doesn't necessarily vent any additional amount of pressure from the crankcase. If you're having problems with excessive amounts of crank case pressure, you might want to investigate and see what's causing that. If you're looking for an improved PCV system, you can swap to the 04 LS6 valley cover, which vents crank case pressure through the valley cover instead of the valve covers like on earlier models. When I rebuilt my engine, I converted over to the 04 LS6 style.

Thanks for getting back to me... I think I asked the wrong question... Does the clean side oil separator On the oil fill also relieve crankcase Pressure ???

Oh gotcha. Yes it does. If you notice the line coming off the new oil filler cap goes to the TB, which provides a vacuum source during WOT. But note that previously that same line was routed to a port on the valve cover. So it does not increase the amount of crankcase pressure you can relieve. It just vents through a different location (oil filler tube vs port on the valve cover), and that new cap was a metal gauze in it that helps strip all out of the air being vented to keep it out of your intake.

Thanks... I just ordered an Elite clean air oil separator to work in tandem with the Elite catch can I installed A year ago... I shoulda listen to you & done it right the first time... Thanks again...

Nice! I think you're going to like it. Everything I've gotten from Elite has been top notch quality.

Milton Babin I would discard the oil collected as it may have fuel contamination.

@@ScrufsGarage Hey its Milton Babin again. Thanks for the information about discarding the old oil fom the oil catch can. I'm fixing to do a coolant change, new hps radiator hoses, and an oil change on my black 2002 corvette using AMS oil products. I'm also changing out the coolant and oil temperature sensor guages. Also a new oil level sensor. I saw your videos on the install of the oil cooler. I was thinking of taking off the oil adapter block so i can change the oil temperature sensor. And then reinstalling the stock oil adapter block for now. Untill a have enough money to buy the oil cooler and new oil cooler adapter block from improved racing. Also i'm not sure uf u know or not. But improved racing now has a stock oil temperature sensor with an extension. I'm just mentioning that because i noticed on your oil cooler video how tight the wires were that are attached to the oil temperature sensor plugged into the oil adapter block. Just thought I'd let u know in case u didn't. I'm writing you because I had a couple questions for u. Q1. Is the stock oil adapter block also called an oil filter fitting??.. It says on LS1 how to.com that the torque spec for the oil filter fittingnis 40 ft/lbs. The oil filter torque is 22 ft/lbs. Q2. Should I get a new gasket for the stock oil adapter block??. I saw some on rock auto.com for fairly cheap. I was thinking about getting one brand name " feel pro." What would u recommend?. Q3. I'm also a little confused on the oil level sensor. It says on LS1 how to that the oil level indicator tube bolt torque is 18 ft/lbs. And the oil level sensor torque is 115 inch/lbs. Do u know what the difference is between the two?. Do i need to replace both or just the oil level sensor. Thanks for any input you might have. Thanks Milton. P.S. The only reason I'm removing the stock oil adapter block is to change the oil temperature sensor being my 3/8 inch torque wrench handle is to long to get acess to the oil temperature sensor. Also do u think that the stock oil adapter block should be torqued to 40 ft/lbs.

Yea Improved Racing came out with some updates after I did my install. I ended up extending the wires while I had the motor out and could get to them. But the new product would be the way to go for someone doing it now. Personally I don't think I would take off the adapter block to change the sensor. If you have long tube headers, getting to those two bolts can be a pain. I wouldn't worry too much about getting the exact torque spec on the replacement sensor. Just get it snug, but don't overdo it. If you do remove the adapter block, I would get a new gasket for it; FelPro would be fine, or OE. The "oil filter fitting" is most likely the threaded adapter that the oil filter screws on to. 40 ft/lbs sounds like way too much for the adapter block bolts. I think the "oil level indicator tube" is the oil dipstick tube. There's a bolt that holds that to the block, so that's the 18 ft/lb spec.

@@ScrufsGarageThanks for the input. So if i did take the old oil adapter block off or put the aftermakket adapter block on in a few months. What would u recommend for the torque for the two bolts that hold the oil adapter. Also do not have long tube headers yeat. Not sure which ones to go with yeat. I was thinking of kooks LT headers and kooks x pipe. But still street driveable. The only other mods I have are catback stingray Borla exaust, and a k&n air intake system. With a tune. Also though about getting a more aggressive cam down the road. Any suggestions on cam or headers would be great.

In the instructions for the IR adapter block, they list the torque spec on the bolts at 120 in/lbs (10 ft/lbs). www.improvedracing.com/manuals/EGM-112-F1.pdf I would go with that for the OE bolts also. They are small, so it doesn't take much and you definitely don't want to strip one. For LT headers, if your budget allows for Kooks then they are definitely the way to go. A coworker has Kooks on his 04Z. Excellent clearance around the steering shaft and the AC lines on the passenger side. As for the cam, there are tons of good options. Personally I went with the Cam Motion Titan 4 and I'm very happy with it.

Chris Colla the instructions from Elite have the pcv valve on the inlet side. However in this configuration with only one line in and one line out, it won't matter. The pcv valve is just a one-way check valve to keep air from the intake from flowing backwards into the valve cover. A forced induction setup would require a different configuration

I would rather go with oil injection with a mikuni oil injection pump. Im running tcw3 in my truck at 80:1 with good results and i also pour some in the engine as well.

Rick Dangerous I'm not as familiar with the pcv routing on that motor but I can say it would need some configuration changes as you don't want intake pressure (boost) pressurizing the catch can. I suggest contacting Elite Engineering for a setup specific to your turbo motor.

It will vary for each person/car and how you drive. Also keep in mind that a catch can doesn't change the amount of crankcase blowby your engine produces. It only captures it and prevents it from going through the intake manifold. For me personally, I've always changed the oil between track events, so it never in there very long. For track events, depending on how much your catch can is collecting, you may want to top off the oil each day. For daily driving, you aren't likely to collect enough oil to need to top it off, but monitor it and see what your car needs.

@@ScrufsGarage Thank you for the information. I have a 2002 Camaro SS with the LS1 in it that I daily drive and I barely get into the throttle but sometimes I do

Happy to help. I definitely recommend the catch can. During my engine rebuild I had my intake manifold off and was able to see how much oily residue had gotten through the pcv system over the years. So anything you can do to keep oil vapors out of the intake will be a benefit in the long run.

@@ScrufsGarage Yeah about 5 months ago I picked up my car and it had 13000 original miles on it so I want to keep it as clean as possible here is a video of it. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h8lnoaSkvL2uoaM.html

Nice video, are you saying that I should NOT put that oil back into the engine? Does it really matter since the oil is reused by the engine anyways?

Hmm, I'm not sure. The hockey stick bracket is slotted, so there's a bit of adjustment. The further up you move it, the further it moves it away from the tensioner bracket. It that doesn't work for you, you might be able to fab a bracket of some sort. The physical location of the catch can isn't too big of a deal, though you may need longer hoses. And you will need to be able to get to it so you can empty the can. Also, keep in mind with a forced induction system, you'll need a little different setup than what I have. You'll need a check valve so that you don't pressurize the catch can.

I believe it should be double check the application guide from Elite Engineering to confirm.

Mr. Lucifer you do need to monitor your oil level, but it shouldn't be dropping so fast that you have an issue. (If it is, then you have bigger problems). Normal street driving isn't much of an issue but your first track day with it, def check it after each session until you get an idea of how quickly it fills up.

couch and potato luna It is similar but there are some differences. I did a follow up video when I changed to an LS2 style intake and throttle body. Hopefully this helps... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ha2hY8eZ2bbcYmw.html

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jZ92eaxj09abdWQ.html drove hard for 3k and not nearly as much

The LS motors are known for blow-by, especially during extended WOT track use. So unfortunately it's not that uncommon. Some guys have it even worse. This video was still on my old motor. I've since built a new motor, but I haven't had that out on the track yet. I'll be curious to see how it compares.

Yeah haven't had that much in my 140k GTO that I beat on

Every motor will be different, but the LS motors are known for blow-by, which is why the catch cans are so popular. Just shine a light intake your intake and you're lightly to see oily residue. But keep in mind the oil I showed was after a track weekend. Each session is 25-30 mins, x4 per day, 2 days in a row. So that's essentially 4hrs of WOT use, which is significantly different than anything you could replicate on the street.