I have been told from a viewer that this actually has that ability. I will post their comment for you... I have not tried it. According to them, this is one of the few controllers that has that functionality. "It will turn the heater off and on to maintain the set temperature. In "on" state, hold down the M key to assess the settings page. Press the down button till you see AUoF I believe. Press the M key to change it to AUon. Press the M key for 3 seconds to save the setting and return to the main screen." Let me know if this works for you... I haven't had time to try it.

@loweredexpectations4927 I'll give it a try when I get a chance, thanks 👍

@@loweredexpectations4927it worked! This module is so hard to find information on! I’ve been trying this for days trying to set a timer or thermostat for my truck camper so I can sleep without having to turn it off! Thank you 😊

@@blacksheep4001did it work for you too? There’s another setting that goes negative or positive 9 Celsius do you think that’s the shutoff adjustment?

@@Therealpotato12 Haha... I'm really glad this work ! I recently contacted a company called Bureck who make a controller that appears to piggyback the original controller and offer some really neat functionality. They have a few videos and a website. But, if your controller has worked for you, even better !!

Thanks for the comment !! That sounds awesome. The little that I have used mine, I love it. I'm sure when it gets really cold, I will love it even more !

Hey Shane ! Good to hear from you. Hope you are well. Good to hear, from a dependable source, that the heaters do overheat in this situation 👍 I've been running this one in smart mode and it's great ! That's really shitty about the over volting ! It's a good thing that it didn't cause a more serious issue ! I'd be interested to see if they have these Bluetooth controllers / ECU on the market yet... I assume they do, but haven't had time to look. When you mentioned solar panels, I was thinking... I should get one to keep my battery powered up... but now I'm not so sure... yikes. PS. I'm working on a project that I think you may be interested in... I sold my Classic Mini and used the money to purchase a new mill, and I'm converting it to CNC.. Started building the stand and I'm waiting for some more parts to arrive.

@@loweredexpectations4927 Joel, thanks for the reply. Glad you're doing ok and selling that British Leyland thing was a great move IMO (as he ducks down in expectation of a load of flack for saying that lol). Don't be out of with solar. Dad in law has no idea when it comes to this stuff and his nickname is "Death by electric". Like anything from these Chinese manufacturers, it's a bit of a lottery what you are going to get. In his case, he was extremely lucky that he didn't kill the two quite expensive leasure batteries too. I suspect..at some point he had the heater connected directly to the controller's output and removed the battery voltage. Because he had around 36v coming from the two large domestic panels on his van the controller failed and did quite a bit of damage. I am sure under normal circumstances, a properly installed controller works fine. In fact I have since put a switch mode controller in for him as they are able to cope with higher input voltages when used on a 12v system and it's all been fine. But the point was just to be aware the heaters don't like it up them! Did you see the new higher output heaters that were released? Pretty much the same but with a longer heat exchanger. I've been looking out for one to buy but they are almost double the price here. CNC machine sounds great by the way. Very envious.

@@shanehogarth6373 LOL... For saying "British Leyland" or for condoning the sale ? haha. It's much better of at its new home... the owner is thrilled and it will get some love... and I have money for .... and I HAD money for other things. Yeah... I suspected that to be true about cheap solar... My truck has a fair parasitic drain that I have never found (as I have never looked for it) so my battery goes dead in about a week if I don't drive ... In the winter this happens. I will have to look into these new larger heaters... I wonder what the actual output is... seeing as the actual output if the 8 is really 5 ... I'll have to see if Vevor sells these and if they will send me one. Cheers !

Thanks ! It's been a while, eh !

Haha... I have used 3 now and they all work great. I am currently using my old heater with the very basic controller to supplement my furnace heat.... The past 3 days have been high of -28 and currently -34C Hopefully you are not dealing with this sort of cold !

Thanks for your comment. I appreciate it.

Haha... I feel so loved ... all the "welcome back" comments, haha. Thanks !

How do you prime the pump … please

@@margotfox61 To prime the pump, you press and hold the down arrow for 7 seconds. The pump should start as well as a 300 seconds timer countdown. If you wish to stop the pumping at any time, press the power button. I hope this helps.

You're quite welcome.

Hello. I would get the smallest one possible. 2kw would be plenty. I'm also in Canada, Calgary AB, so I know about this cold you are talking about, haha. The heater will dial back and use very little fuel once it is up and running. I believe the body of the 2kw is a little smaller so it will be an easier install. (than a 5kw). It will not turn on and off, but it will throttle back to the lowes point. These heaters take about 2-3 minutes to fully start up and fully shut down, so you want to keep them running. The temp setting on the controller will ramp the heat up to higher settings when it is colder and lower settings when it warms up👌. Yes, this particular heater does have automatic altitude compensation, though I have used a heater without (at 4000 ft) and it worked perfectly fine. If you have more questions, let me know.

You don't just tell her to shut up ? haha... Are we living in the dark ages ? Just kidding. I'm able to get the temp in my cab well over 40C with the heater working how it is, so I'm not terribly concerned about it, but I will likely do more testing as time allows. I totally disassembled the heater, checked the inlet, exhaust, muffler, removed some casting marks from the heater body (in the inlet and exhaust) reinstalled the heater with no air filter, and the heater still over heated when on the high setting... I have a fairly strait run of heater tube into my cab, and this testing was done without any vent deflector installed and noting blocking the flow... it's a mystery. I think you're idea about the back pressure may have something to do with it, but I did try it with the windows slightly cracked and it still overheated. Until I took it apart and looked inside, I was sure that there was some sort of blockage or that the air filter was causing a restriction.

Hello. You can not use your phone as the thermostat. It is relaying the temp from the controller. However, You can do what I did and extend the wire and put the controller where you would like it. I believe there are sites where you can purchase these wires extended with plugs on them, but it is 3 small gauge wires and really easy to do. They are just signal wires so almost any wire will do. 16 - 18 gauge makes sense as it is easy to work with but not too bulky. My heater is in the box of my truck and I have 10 feet of wire so that my controller can be mounted on my dash.

Hello Jonny. Yes, you will need to prime it until you can see fuel going into the heater... if you have a long line this could take several minutes. If you can't see the line, don't do it too much or you can flood it with fuel. If you can't see the fuel line where it goes into the heater, prime it for 30 seconds at a time and that should be ok. The procedure is this. Disconnect your fuse, or the power connector at your heater. Reconnect the power. Push and hold the down key for 7 seconds... the display will show "300" and count down for 300 seconds. To stop priming, hit the power button. On this model, if you have to re prime, you need to disconnect the power and start over. This sucks as you will have to reset your clock and all settings.

Good question. Yes, there is a heat sensor inside of the controller.

You are the second person to ask this... I don't believe that it can be done. Other than taking the controller apart (probably breaking it) and unhooking the speaker. I have a meat thermometer that I removed the wires to the beeper... She is very loud. You could try putting some electrical tape or foam tape over the speaker... not an ideal solution, but it would quiet her some.

Sorry to hear you are having issues. I haven't had any issues like this. The only thing I can think of doing is entering the set up in your app, the gear just above "up" on the bottom right.... There is a place to enter a passcode in there. It comes set up as 1234 You can check to see if yours got changed somehow. If this doesn't work I would advice contacting the retailer as soon as possible and letting them know about the issue. I hope this helps.

👍

I believe so, but now that you say that, I'm not sure if the feature is for every day or if you have to set it each time... based on what the manual says, you can set it to come on at a certain time... I understand this to mean every day... I will have to look into this more.

Hello again. Every heater installation will be different, but mine is in the back of the truck. You can see in my previous video. You can guarantee that there will not be a magical place where holes for the exhaust, inlet tube and hot air tube are located. This takes some creativity and careful thought. You need to take care 1. not to burn you car to the ground with hot exhaust and 2. not to fill your car with carbon monoxide. I am uncertain about vehicle inspection. If you take your time and are thoughtful about where you place the heater, where and how you make your holes, you can purchase grommets and or plugs for the holes if the heater is ever removed... Or have some 3D printed. My installation was on an older work vehicle (2003 GM truck) so I have no concerns about lowering the value. However. I would not do this to a vehicle that I was leasing, or a car that I planned on selling in a few years.

Wow... that is very strange... First I'm hearing of this. Does it always do it ? Try disconnecting your power for a while and try again... but that sounds like a controller or ECU glitch.

I'm not sure... the app is free in the app store, so it's worth a try. It's called airHeaterByBLE

It needs to be done on the main controller. It is also a little tricky / confusing, as it will only prime after a fresh start up. Meaning, you need to pull the fuse or disconnect the power from the heater, and then prime before attempting anything else. To start the prime function, connect power, press the down arrow for 7 seconds and you will see a 300 second countdown timer start. To stop it from priming at any time, press the power button. If you can not clearly see the where the fuel goes into the heater, you will want to prime for 30 seconds or so at a time, so that you don't completely flood your heater with diesel. Hope this helps !

@@loweredexpectations4927 - You're actually one step ahead of me, as I was about to reply back & ask if you might recall the procedure/steps for priming and/or knew which one of your videos showed the priming procedure, it's not that I'm lazy (ok, sometimes, yes) but this time was just trying to speed up the learning curve in comprehending the tricky "chinese-to-english" wording in the manual. That said, appreciate all the info & the surprisingly fast replies!

@@__WJK__ Glad I could help... I can't possible tell you how many times a KZfaq video saved my butt, or just make my life a whole lot easier !

Thanks for the comment. I think the methods of collecting heat from the exhaust are mostly valid. Mostly safe and effective. While preheating the air may seem like a good idea, I wouldn't do that for a few reasons. The first being that hot air is less dense, meaning that you are going to have a less efficient / complete burn. I have also damaged the fan motor by feeding hot air into the inlet, so you can only get away with a little extra heat. If /when I attempt to make one of my heaters more efficient, I will definitely be using some sort of exchanger on the exhaust.

@@loweredexpectations4927Fair points…the combustion air is a separate intake so it shouldn’t impact that. For the fresh air it would be hard to ensure that it wasn’t preheating too much to cause damage without some controls/dampers unless you’re drawing in very cold air.

@@DigiTiLMon Ah, yes. For some reason I was convinced you were talking about feeding into the combustion inlet... My mind wonders. You could preheat the air in this way, but it is not logical when you consider what you are really saying. If you are able to actually capture a substantial amount of heat off of the exhaust, why then pass it over the heater and not just use it to heat your area directly. If you were going to do this., and didn't want to bother with another fan, then using your outlet air would make more sense. Sorry if this seems rude or unfriendly. I'm rushing to answer as it is 12:35 in the morning. I do think that collecting heat from the exhaust is a very good idea, and the limiting factor in this area is how efficient your exchanger is and or how large you are willing to make it.

The manual has instructions... but I could not get it to work with those instructions ... it didn't seem to make sense at all. I honestly forget how I did it, but I was able to figure it out by just mashing on buttons, haha. After that I tried to set a turn on timer, but that was over my head. I have currently lost the key to my truck and have been locked out for a few days.. Waiting on a locksmith.

Hey Marc. Yes, I cut the wires in the harness and used a piece of loadcell wire from a weigh scale... This is ideal as it is small gauge, very durable and shielded, so less chance of interference. If I didn't' have it, I likely would have used some 18 or 20 ga wire and taken a chance on it. Greetings form Canada !

I think I already answered your question in another comment. Cheers.

I do not believe that it will do it simultaneously, but you can "scan" and connect to another unit in just a few seconds.

Woha... that's strange. Honestly, I don't even know what sort of signal BT is...🤔 a certain RF frequency 🤷‍♂️ Seems odd that they would install a BT transmitter receiver in a unit and not use it, but stranger things have happened.

well, one guy called his blue controller a 'high end' one. I thought it strange too, but honestly it was there!. i THINK it hidden and they cashing coz BT is $50 more...In menu on his it come up as B ON (BT on), but I haven't (or can't find it) in the menu. It's doin' my head in! LOL @@loweredexpectations4927

Hello. The functionality that you are referring to is built into the ECU and not the controller. I have not tried accessing any hidden menus, but my guess is that this does not have that functionality.

There aren’t any adjustments that can be made to these. They have built in altitude compensation

@@TheMajictech I believe he is talking about the "engineering" menu where you an sometimes change the pump hz and fain speed independantly. I suppose this could be considered elevation compensation, but my old controller actually had low (normal) or high altitude .

@@loweredexpectations4927 yep I see your point, but most people need that custom adjustment for altitude issues on the oldest ones I suppose some of us wildcatters need it for our custom fuel mixtures such as I in the land of the chosen frozen (almost Canada) my heaters all died at +14f due to the wind chill, so a #1/ #2 mix it is! They consume a lot more straight #1 but run reliably just not nearly as warm.

@@TheMajictech That's interesting. I have a heater that has two modes, and I am at about 3500 ft. When I run my heater in low altitude mode, it runs a little hotter, but I don't have any shooting issues at all. My testing was only for about a week but running for 24 hours a day. After disassembly, it was perfectly clean with the exception of a wisp of carbon just outside of the baffle, in a small patch on one side... and it wasn't stuck to the surface. I have heard of people having all sorts of issues with smoke on start up, plugged exhausts, but as long as I run diesel mine has never had an issue. Maybe I'm just lucky. I have actually purposly carboned my heater up and then run it on diesel and it cleaned things up a little, and ran fine. I rarely ran my heater on high altitude mode as it made a lot less heat. I only did it a few times for testing purposes.

I'm not sure I understand your question, so I will do my best to answer. The heater has a timer function for turning it on and off. It also has a function for turning it on and off based on temperature. If the heater body gets above 250C, it has a safety shutdown. If this happens, you will need to restart the heater manually.

I had a "very hot smell" for the first few hours of use... It was actually so bad at first that I thought there was something wrong with the heater and took it apart ... I mentioned in my install video that it had overheated ... I tore the heater down completely, and it was perfect inside... no issues at all. Now that I have used my heater for a few hours, there is no smell at all. You are correct tho... this is somewhat concerning and an odd smell.

I recently released another video showing how you can actually have the heater shut off when it reaches temp... very cool feature. The title of the video is Unlocking The Bluetooth Diesel Heater Controller - Feature & Settings Discovered ! I installed a PID controller on my oven, that I use for powder coating... I love it. A very handy device.

Yes, this particular heater does have automatic altitude compensation, though I have used a heater without (at 4000 ft) and it worked perfectly fine. If you have more questions, let me know.

Remove the fuse or remove power from the ECU and controller. After you connect power, press and hold the down arrow for 7 seconds. To stop priming, press the off key. To repeat this at any time, you need to remove power and hook it up again.

it is called airHeaterByBLE Let me know if you can't find it... I can post a photo of the scan thing in my community post section.

If your controller is too dark to see, there is a problem and it should be replaced. The app scan code is in my user manual on page 17. You can also search the app store for "airheaterbyble".

The most I have gotten it to work is about 75 feet, but it is weather dependant and also how much stuff is between you and the heater. A realistic distance is more like 50 feet.

I haven't heard anyone else ask this, and I haven't had this issue with either of my bluetooth heaters. That seems very strange. The only thing I can think is to delete the app and download it again. If that doesn't work I would contact the retailer.

Thanks for the comment. From the extensive torture testing that I have done, I believe that issues related to fuel pump mounting are largely myths. I have torture tested my other heater with gasoline, alcohol, waste oil, and all sorts of mixes, and I have not killed even one fuel pump. I believe that pump failure is due to people mounting the fuel tank below the pump. This can starve the pump for sure or make it cavitate badly, leading to damage... That's my belief. I believe the idea of mounting the pump at an angle is to allow the bubbles, from normal cavitation, to gradually feed into the heater, instead of building up a large air pocket can eventually cause a problem. However, I have never had a problem with it.

@@loweredexpectations4927 there's an extensive theoretical guide from a guy that has a lot of experience with diesel heaters too. he has a many part series talking about them and giving good information. Here's one of his videos where he talks specifically about diesel pumps and their operation: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iq12d6mLm9iVlH0.html

​@@loweredexpectations4927those pumps are nowhere near powerful enough to cause cavitation. You have to drop the suction to 28 hg to reach the vapor point of diesel.

@@Bryan-Hensley I can see how you would think this, but not only can they cause cavitation, almost every single one of them does. If you observe these pumps under normal operation, you can see bubbles being "created" on the outlet side of the pump. The reason why cavitation happens, during normal operation, is due to the design of the pump. There is a small piston / plunger that is driven by an electromagnetic coil, same as a relay or solenoid. The abrupt acceleration of the piston not only pushes fuel out, but "sucks" fuel in, by means of creating a low pressure on the back side of the piston. The abrupt acceleration causes cavitation on the back side of the piston with almost every stroke. This doesn't necessarily mean that the pump is getting to 28 in/hg, as diesel is never going to be pure. There will likely be dissolved gases, contaminants (including some water / moisture). Also, you are quoting the vapor pressure at room temperature, I assume as I don't know what it is, but the pump creates heat, and the slow moving diesel cools the pump, absorbing this heat. It's likely only a few degrees, but enough change the vapor point.

@@loweredexpectations4927 mine doesn't have any bubbles with the 2 I've got after I replaced the junk hose and clamps

It's kinda confusing on these. It will only prime right after you send power to the comptroller. You pull the fuse, or disconnect your power wire, then before doing anything else, push the down arrow for 7 seconds. It will start counting down form 300. If you have a long line, you may have to do this a few times. If it is short, make sure not to prime too much. Push power to stop prime at any time.

@@loweredexpectations4927 Thank you! That worked, was fiddeling with it for a while

Not that I have seen so far. The heater has auto elevation compensation, but I have not attempted to access any hidden menu.

@@loweredexpectations4927 They run efficiently at 0.8pump hz and 1850rpm lowest settings once started and worm then slowed down with advanced settings while running. They just need to be set to start up clean around 2200rpm 0.8hz low settings. Personally I need the advanced settings to save some fule by tuning it down myself. Tick over at 1.5hz as factory settings uses to much fule and makes to much heat for my application. 👍

@@Stainless316L I understand what you are saying, but also, these settings depend on a lot of different things. The only way to know for sure is by testing the heater for CO and efficiency for every install and at all different locations where the heater may be used. While this stuff matters a little, and it can be fun to play with getting the most efficiency, I do not think it is practical for the average person. I don't think it's overly complicated or costly for the testing equipment, but 99% of the heaters out there do not have this fine tuning calibrated in any real world way, and they work just fine. I'm at 4000 ft and haven't had any issues at all while running diesel. I have a heater that has manual plateau mode and I set it at the low elevation setting, as it makes more heat and does not burn with any smoke or soot build up. While it burns less fuel in the high elevation mode, I can't say that it is more efficient, as it doesn't make as much heat. One of the benefits of using diesel as fuel, is that it has a MUCH wider AFR where it burns completely. I believe the range is something crazy like 14:1 all the way to 75:1, where fuels like gasoline need to stay very close to 13:1, 14:1

Does this have a way to manually select on the controller to high altitude mode my heater is burning rich

@@petermaceachern4843 I do not believe it has a manual mode to control this. You can enter "engineering mode" and check to see if the elevation matches your actual elevation, within reason. The manual says to press and hold the up and down arrow for 3 seconds in the start up state, then press up and down to scroll through the list. 001 Heater main board version 002 fault codes, 003 shell temperature, 004 Power supply voltage, 005 Heat setting, 006 Cab temperature, 007 altitude ... If your a "altitude" / elevation is showing much lower than your actual elevation, then it may be feeding the heater excessive fuel. The remedy would be to replace the ECU... I believe it has the sensor built in. All of that being said, I am very doubtful that the heater is actually running rich for this reason. I am at 4000 ft above sea level, and my old heater runs fine with the sea level setting. If your heater is actually burning rich, it is likely due to an air restriction, restricted inlet filter, hose, or the heater is in a confined space and can't get enough combustion air. There are many things that can cause an inlet air restriction. If you have the heater in a small space you need to be mindful about how air will get in and out and consider if you are creating positive or negative pressure. An exhaust restriction can also cause a rich burn, as air can only get in if exhaust can get out freely. If you have burnt fuel other than diesel, or had carbon build up for any reason, this carbon can cause a restriction, that can then cause it to run rich, leading to more and more carbon. If you have had carbon issues, it is often necessary to replace the burn chamber with a new one to return the heater to original burn quality ... The chamber has a wick that can get clogged with carbon. Once this occurs, it is almost impossible to properly clean it. Black or blue smoke does not necessarily mean running rich... an incomplete burn is much more likely.

I have done it over 100 feet away, but it depends on what is in-between you and the heater. I have found I can turn it on sometimes from my garage through my house and the wall of my garage, but only in nice weather. about 75 feet. More realistically, I can turn it on from my bedroom that is 55 feet away and one wall of my house. That works every single time.

Hello. The 5kw and 8kw units are the same. They use all of the same parts with the exception of the fuel pump (in some cases). The only difference, as far as I know is that some "8kw" units will pump at a slightly higher HZ in the highests setting. The 2kw heater is totally different. It looks the same, but it is physically much smaller, it uses smaller hoses on the duct air and consumes much less fuel (different ECU programming) So, 5 and 8 are basically the same and you can use parts from one on the other. 2kw units are smaller in almost every way.

@@loweredexpectations4927 Thank you. I'm watching another video comparing "Hcalory" units and the 2kw, 6kw, and 8.5kw units are all different. Maybe with Vevor the 5kw and 8kw are the same? I've read elsewhere that they are.

@@The_Ballo There are a few companies like Hcalory who actually make or have different units made. I'm not sure why they choose to do this, as this increases the cost and doesn't added benefits. Although there is no standardized design, the Vevor heaters are extremely widely used. It is a many decades old design that doesn't have any issues with patents or intellectual property rights.... so this makes them very cheap, easy to get parts for an fairly easy to find information on. I take no issue with innovation. If a company can improve on a design and make it better, easier, cheaper etc. I'm all for that. What I don't like is when companies make things different simply for branding purposes, and that seems to be what Hcalory is doing. That being said... I thought that the only differences that they were making was to the aesthetics. Changing the shape of the cases, adding different accessories, controllers and enclosures. I may be wrong, but I thought that the heat exchanger, burn chamber, fan etc. was the same as all the others.

There is no such thing as a 8 kilowatt,its a marketing scheme. If you do the math a rated 5 KW is really only putting out 4 kilowatts.

@@troy7124 This is very true. I literally said that in my first response and try to post this in the description of every video where I have links to 5 and 8 kw heaters. Response to the comment: "The 5kw and 8kw units are the same. They use all of the same parts with the exception of the fuel pump (in some cases). The only difference, as far as I know is that some "8kw" units will pump at a slightly higher HZ in the highests setting. "

You need to disconnect the power (disconnect from battery, remove the fuse or unplug the connector at the heater) Then reconnect power. Once power is connected, push and hold the down button for 7 seconds and the pump will start... It runs for 300 seconds unless stopped by pressing the power button. I you need to do this again, you have to disconnect and reconnect power... it sucks. Do not over prime your heater... once you see fuel going into the heater let it run for about 10 seconds then hit the power.

Thanks for the comment. Maybe it's because I'm old... but I love the simplicity of the app and that it is "basic" It would be nice if they added features like setting a timer or allowed you to have the heater turn on and off based on temperature.... but I'd rather have a app that worked well and doesn't have a lot of features, than an app with lots of features that was crap, haha. I find often myself hoping that they don't do an update that makes it suck !

Yes... this will work. I have connected to my friends heater 👍 Not sure that you can connect at the same time, they probably lock one out if the other is active.

Thanks. My android connected right away but the wife's iPhone not so easy. -13 out this morning so I will let it warm up in the she shed and go out and play with it. Love your videos. By the way where are you located. We are just north of North Bay Ontario.

@@keithgolden438 I had the opposite experience. My iPhone connected instantly and someone else with a google pixel had a bit of trouble. Overall the app and connectivity has been great for me better and more reliable than any of my other BT devices. It will sometimes do strange things but some of it seems to be that it needs a few seconds to do it's thing. If I open my app and don't do anything for 10 seconds, it will connect. If I open my app and get impatient and start trying to make it connect, then it seems to get confused. I also have 2 heaters so it isn't sure what one to connect to.

@@keithgolden438 Oh.... and I'm in Calgary AB ... Grew up in Miramichi NB and have some family in Ontario.

I always assume when someone is in the cold they aren't too far from me. Lol. My son is in Peace River Alberta. Been there once. Never again.

I forget exactly how, but I did make a video on doing this... I will try to link it in another comment. You power on, push and hold the menu button and then scroll up or down.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ia6EatSp0bTLeqc.html

@@loweredexpectations4927 Thanks for the quick reply. I foudn that other video and came back here to let you know. You are faster than me. LOL. Thanks for the info.

I also just released a video on Sunday on how to Mute the annoying voice. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qblyqpublsvUlHU.html

@@HoustonBrownPhotography That's great 👍.

I do not know of another manual for this unit & I agree that it is quite bad. From what I can tell there isn't a way to switch to F. I have installed two of these but I only ever use the app.

Hello Shawn. Sorry to hear you are having troubles. I have only tested the iPhone app and not on any other phone. Are you using an iPhone ? Are you saying that you have had 3 different heaters and none work with the app !? I see that there is a scan thing for Android, but have not tried it, as I do not have an android phone.

@@loweredexpectations4927 all Android

I"m not sure what you mean ? Are you asking me to make another video about the Vevor heater, or are you asking if I want to review your heater ?

This particular heater does this automatically. No need to change anything. I am at 4000 ft and it works perfect.

Hello, how come it doesn't show me the altitude?

@@PavelZlejsi-by4iq Hello Pavel. The elevation should show up in the top left corner of the app... In my video you can see this beside the speaker icon reading 1004 meters.

@@loweredexpectations4927 Yes, I know. But it shows me 0.0km 😏

@@PavelZlejsi-by4iq Oh... I understand now. Either you are very close to sea level... or there is something wrong with that sensor. The sensor is in the ECU, so if that is the problem, the ECU and controller should be replaced. If you have just purchased the heater, you should inform the retailer and request a new heater.

The same thing happened to me over a year ago. The first heater that I bought... I thought was a 8kw heater.... however, there is no such thing as an 8kw heater, despite what every retailer and manufacturer says. These units, none of them, are capable of outputting 8kw. I have tried to make this clear in my videos and if you look at the description of this video, it says that 5 and 8 kw units are the same. There are many video and blog posts about this. If you want 8kw you need two heaters. I believe there are manufacturers making larger units that claim to be 16kw and are actually around 12.

You are wrong about the body size though. The 5 and "8kw" heaters have the exact same components (because they are all 5kw) and the only one that is smaller is the 2kw.

I'll have to make a short video for you to show you the larger size burn chamber. The physical width and height are identical, but the 8KW is a bit longer with a larger air output, it has a 90mm while the 5KW has a 75mm air outlet.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oJiAd7Kb05zNZKc.htmlsi=PEUTJ2iab31RF488 David did a video a while back. I got mine from Maxpeedingrod 3 back in Nov '23.

@@kirkwalsh1932 Ah yes... I actually saw that video last year and forgot about it. I love Dave McLuckie. Vevor does not have these, and from what I remember, Hcalory is the only one that sells them. What I remember from his test it actually didn't put out 8kw either... ti was around 6. I think in another video he tests something that was claimed to be 16 and it was 12... I have a bad memory, so it may have been a water heater.

Hello Jeff. The mecanical part of the heater is exactly the same. I have pulled this heater apart off camera to have a look at it, and it is the same as all of the other 5 - 8 kw units. The only thing that is different is the controller / ecu. The new electronics would attach to the old heaters.

Not that I am aware of. I have checked the manual and the app settings, and I do not see an option for that.

Hey, I can help you with that. You power the heater on, after it says "start heating", you press and hold the up arrow for about 3 seconds and it will say "rte". When you see that, press the on button on your remote fob. I have a video I just released Sunday showing how to turn the voice off, if you also want to do that, and another video a while back showing how to change from C to F, change the time and also set the Auto on / off feature. I will try to leave the links to those videos in another comment.

Mute the controller voice. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qblyqpublsvUlHU.html Auto on/off and other stuff: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ia6EatSp0bTLeqc.html

Hey Brandon. Is your heater a Bluetooth version ? They sell to versions that are very similar. If so, what happens when you try to connect ? Does it say anything ? Does it give you a reason ? Have you checked to see if the Bluetooth setting is turned on in your controller (mentioned in this video). When you hit "scan" in the top right, do you get a pop showing your heater ID in blue ?

I can see why people want more.... But my heater has automatic elevation adjustment and doesn't have "alpine mode". I wish it showed battery voltage while powered off, that would be handy. I'm guessing that the lack of features is for 2 main reasons. 1. This app isn't just used for one heater /one controller and having basic functions allows them to use it on more heaters without several variations. 2. The more complicated it gets, the more problems it is likely to have, and the more likely people will struggle to figure it out. I have been using my heater for 3 months now, and the only thing I regularly wish the app did was show battery voltage all the time.

I feel like this is a continuation of a conversation, but I don't see any previous comment. I suppose how a person views the app depends on what they want it to do. I love tinkering, and if I was using this heater to tinker in my garage (like I did all last winter) I would NOT want this ECU and controller... I have mounted this heater in my truck, and I just want it to heat my truck. I think the app does everything that the average user wants it to do. I would like for it to have features for setting on / off timers, and also a way to have the heater turn on and off based on temperature. I would be curious to know how much tuning a heater actually affects efficiency. The reason why this comes to mind is because diesel has a VERY wide ratio where it burns completely. Something like 14:1 to 75:1 ... As long as you burn leaner than 14:1 you are getting a complete burn, and will just make less heat as you lean it out. Now that I start going down that path... I can see how it could be more or less efficient based on different temperatures. The exchanger can only absorb and displace X amount of heat, so leaning out your heater could allow more heat from x amount of fuel to enter your living space, instead of going out the exhaust. If it is an option for you, I think taking heat from the exhaust is the best way to go.

@@loweredexpectations4927 it isn't just the wide range of fuel to air mix. You must get it just above the 14.5:1 ratio for diesel and not any higher because the extra air exhausts more BTUs out of the burn chamber before exchanging to the room. It is adjustments to both the upper end and lower end that needs to be changed as it scales between using the min/max for fan speed and fuel pump. I don't remember the exact setpoints but I also was hitting thermal limits when adjusting the top end. Pretty easy with an AFR gauge though. I haven't done a heat exchanger on the exhaust but at this point I've ran calcs and have been getting about 86% efficiency which is pretty good for these units. That was done using a hot wire anemometer and temp probes on incoming/outgoing temps while measuring the fuel used over an hour.

If you hvae a Vevor heater / manual, my scan code is on page 21. If you don't have a manual then you can search for airHeaterByBLE 👍

That's not a answer. Link to the app?!!!!

@@GnosticElohim I'm not sure what makes you think I'm your fucking servant ... but I'm not ... learn some manners and find it yourself.

The last few days here have been kind of miserable and cold ! Heating is back. Yeah, I'm aware it's only about 10 amps on start up. I don't plan on running larger wires for a few reasons. One is that I would have to run larger wires and that's more work, haha.... The other is that I plan on installing a dedicated battery very close to the heater. That way I can use the trailer plug to charge that battery, and have very short wires powering the heater. My truck battery is trash / my truck has a parasitic draw and constantly goes dead if it sits for more than a few days. You'd think that I would diagnose this issue and fix it, but you'd be wrong. I have replaced the battery in this vehicle about 6 times and I usually carry a second battery and booster cables, because I can't trust it. I pretty much have to boost it every time I start it in the winter as I don't drive much, and it's usually very cold.

@@loweredexpectations4927 - Surely someone on youtube must have run into the same problem with your make/model of truck & solved the problem...yes/no(?) Constanly dealing with parasitic-draw issue on a vehicle battery would test my sanity for sure, esepcially in winter!

@@__WJK__ Hey... My vehicle has a trailer brake adjuster, alarm system and autostart that all could be part of this problem. Based on the way the autostart functions / doesn't function, I suspect that it may be the problem. To diagnose this I would have to start cutting stuff out... and I should do that as none of it has been used for years... but it's a matter of finding the time to do it, when it's the most important thing on my list. I can tell there's a substantial draw as I get quite the acr when connecting my battery terminals.

The app is called airHeaterByBLE . If you have a Vevor heater, the scan code is in the user manual.

Thanks

@@gmeister03 You're welcome !

Not a motherboard / ECU, but there is a system called Afterburner, made in Australia that uses wifi and gives you endless control and features. The website is mrjones something. Dave McLuckie has a few videos about / featuring it.

@@loweredexpectations4927 thanks, I am aware of that unit, but I thought you may have run into a stock controller in your quest.

@@stevecarlisle3323 Nope. The whole Bluetooth thing is pretty new to the game. Depending on what you want to do, there is a device that you can get on amazon. I forget what it is called, a viewer mentioned it.... It connects to your phone via wifi and then sends out RF and other signals through an app, from what I understand. It was $60 or $70.

Can you give more detail ? You have a heater that is Bluetooth compatible ? in the app are you seeing your heater in the SCAN menu ? What is or isn't happening ?

not seeing it in the scan but my phone can see it

@@tombeeks3406 That's odd... My heater never shows on my phone (in bluetooth settings). What does it show up as on your phone ? For me, I open my app and in the top right there is the "scan" actually says "SACN" with the Bluetooth logo. If I click on that, a white screen pops up with what appears to be the serial numbers of my heaters, in blue. It ways BYD- XXXXX . Are you using Android or iPhone ?

@@loweredexpectations4927 sorted now. Reinstalled the app. Thanks

Hey.... thanks for the comment. I think I understand what you are saying but feel the opposite way, haha.... I hate the heater turning on and off as that's when it uses more battery power, makes smoke and is more likely to foul up (I believe) This being said... I have had a viewer leave a comment telling me how to get the heater to shut down like you want it to... I have not tried it, but I will find the comment and paste it here for you. "Yeah. It will turn the heater off and on to maintain the set temperature. In "on" state, hold down the M key to assess the settings page. Press the down button till you see AUoF I believe. Press the M key to change it to AUon. Press the M key for 3 seconds to save the setting and return to the main screen."

@@loweredexpectations4927 I got mine to run that way. Problem is the smart setting doesn’t go full throttle so to speak even when there is a 10 degree or more thermostat demand. Note : going full throttle for 10 or more minutes is the #1 method of combating sooting. The way these things are programmed unless you use “level mode” it will never full throttle. Only about 1/2. I have a vevor that’s 4 years old with an afterburner controller that works flawlessly in auto mode, never an issue with sooting until I made the exhaust too long and ran it horizontal, it then collected condensation partially blocking the exhaust and sooted up, easy remedy there. (About 3 years into its lifetime) the only other issue I had was the fuel reset on the afterburner controller and my wife not seeing eye to eye. These controllers are programmable to shut down before they run completely out of fuel to negate having to reprime the system and running the fuel pump dry. She would accidentally get into other settings and foul things up 😂 I think I’m going to go back to the OG vevor heater with that controller and add an external push button fuel reset switch for her. It was an option when I bought it that I stupidly declined. With that said, I ran the Hcalory all night to see if maybe it would learn something in smart mode, it didn’t, it’s currently running with a +4 degree heat demand idling along at about stage 2. That is a great way to soot the hell out of them and I’m not warm. Out it goes today! If I can find that Aussie controller or not, at least the other controller will do what I tell it to do, and me and my puppy’s are warm. I see what you mean about battery consumption although I don’t have that issue to concern myself with even in a power outage. I’ve found my heating fuel consumption a lot less when the heater runs as intended with no soothing whatsoever aside from outside interference as I described. Honestly I had high hopes this would run correctly and I could put the old proven vevor in the camper van with the Aussie controller and utilize the freeze protection mode where it keeps it at about 38-42f then all my lipo4 batteries and 400w solar would remain happy. (4 120ah and a goal zero 1000) such as life. . . . . .

​@@TheMajictech Yes, I agree... The smart mode throttles back too quickly, and does not throttle up enough to reach the set temperature. I have noticed this and use the "level" mode to heat my truck up quickly, and then when I set it to smart mode, I set it a little higher than the desired temperature. Not ideal, but better than manual control. My heater will go full throttle on startup and if the temp is about 20 C lower than the set temp in smart mode. I have done a bunch of testing, using thermocouples, and inspecting the burn chamber, and found that running on the highest heat setting doesn't produce the most heat in the chamber... You are better off to set the heater at half (setting 5) to clean it out. The fan speed at 10 moves too much air and cools the chamber. The afterburner controller is amazing, from what I have seen and heard, but it also costs more than the whole Vevor heater, and isn't really a fair comparison. I think in a few years, these cheap heaters will have some of the control features figured out, but for most people, the current functionality is fine, and 90% of people only use the power on and off button, haha. I totally understand that there are people who love to have full control and tune things exactly, but that functionality only matters if you are going to take the time to educate yourself and then take the time to do a lot of fine adjustments. The running out of fuel thing can absolutely be a pain in the butt... It would be nice if these companies Vevor and all the rest, had a better feedback system, but they are just retailers of the equipment and have no say in the development or design of the products. We can only hope that they get less shit in the future and not more shit 🤣 PS... Signed into my wrong account. Pss or Pps ... I personally love my new heater over the old one. There are some things I wish it did better or different, but I don't think I'd get one of the older ones again... unless I had plans to put an Afterburner on it.

@@JoelArseneaultKZfaq yep that’s been my experience too, on my “smart heater” in gear mode 9th displays the highest combustion temperatures. I took this heater out this morning and went back to my other setup. When it gets -40 with wind chill I want something that will run itself wide open if needed. Enjoy your Sunday!

@@TheMajictech Haha... I agree !! -40 sucks, and you absolutely want your heater to try to keep up and jump up to setting 10 ... When I mentioned temperature of the heater, I should have been more specific. It is quite counter intuitive, but the heat exchanger and combustion chamber do not relate to each other how you might think. While my heat exchanger would run 210 - 212 C at setting 10 and 180 at setting 5, the burn chamber would be quite a bit hotter at setting 5 than setting 10. I believe the reason for this is more than one thing, but basically, the heat exchanger gets its heat from the burn chamber. If you move a lot of air through the burn chamber, you remove a lot of heat form the burn chamber, and that heat is absorbed into the exchanger. The temperature of the heat exchanger is a result of how much heat it absorbs, and how much heat it can release. My tests seem to indicate that the exchanger can't release heat as quickly at higher settings, and this is likely due to airflow efficiency. My guess is that the relative efficiency of air flow through the burn chamber at higher fan speeds, is slightly better than the air flow over the heat exchanger at higher fan speeds. This could also be due to the burn chamber not being able to burn quite as efficiently with that much air flow. If slightly more heat is being carried away and the burn is slightly less efficient, then these two things would add up. Yes... I have spent WAY too much time experimenting with my heater !

Don't we all ?

I had to google search "Baofeng radios..." 🤣 She's like the Chinese Siri

@@loweredexpectations4927 They are a very cheap unit. but no one uses them anymore, but millions have been sold.(go figure), UV5R is still my favvy, but there are dozens of different models. Cheers!

"Every app" ? Did you mean "every video".

@@loweredexpectations4927 Yes, what was I thinking? Must be cause I'm 77 y/o.

@@iguanapete3809 I'm guessing that I won't change you mind, but figure I'd try to offer some explanation. It probably seems odd that a person who is uncomfortable talking to people and to a camera would do so, but that is the case. Sometimes, during my "normal" speech, I tend to get lost in my head. As I'm talking, I think about what I'm saying could be misunderstood and try to correct my sentences before they are even completed... This gets messy REALLY quickly. I tend to not finish sentences expecting that people already know what I'm going to say. I can't keep track of what I have said and what I thought about saying. Lots of fun things like that. A mild case of this results in a lot of "aaaaaw, ummmmm" or the worst of all " like, like, like like ". It sometimes takes me several hours of recording to get a 3 minute "hello" and "goodbye" sorted out. I have learned that if I talk quite fast, repeat patterns and have a specific start and end point, this greatly improves my situation. The reason why I say "What's up everyone" is because my original channel (the Joel Arseneault channel) I had a very small groupe of very loyal followers. I didn't have a meeting with myself and decide to do this... it just happened... As a very recluse person, I sometimes wonder I will come across as not friendly. "What's up Everyone" is friendly and cheerful, but not specific. It doesn't single anyone out, but isn't formal... I'm obviously overthinking this, but that is my chosen speech pattern to kick start my speach. I have actually talked about this in a few videos, about not liking that I sound like a cheesy radio announcer, but it being the only way for me to actually sort of say what I need to say. To top things off, the average person never really has to listen to themselves talk. Making a 20 minute video often means sifting through hours of video, listen to and watching yourself... If you don't already have some sort of complex, this is a good way to give yourself one, haha ! I'm not a kid anymore, but I am genuinely proud of what I've been able to do, considering where I started. Cheers.

Not that I know of, but I have asked a viewer Named Doug, as he seems to have a lot of knowledge about these that is clearly not in the manual. if I find anything out I will try to write an update in the video description and possibly make a video about it. He has figured out a way to get the heater to operate like a household thermostat. Turning on and off instead of just going between setting 1 and 10.