Sweet ! Thanks for the info... that is very helpful, and now I don't have to Google search, haha. Cheers !!

THANKS! I needed that. Somehow i had it showing 3 degrees wrong and it was annoying me.

​@@SergeyPRKLso if my heater says it's 40 degrees outside when it's really 37 degrees... I can fix that ??

Thanks very helpful 👍

So say the lcd screen outside temp is 20.. and u use bluetooth can shut off and on by the bluetooth in the tent if say it said 68 and that was set temp. Or do u have to wire the lcd screen inside the heated area? ​@loweredexpectations4927

Yes, I have noticed this... nothing that you can change, but a bit of info that you can see on the app, and a few extra things.

Thanks for the great comment ! You may want to test your heater on the auto on feature to see how often it cycles on and off. This may actually consume more battery power if you are not well insulated. The "smart mode" may be a better option or simply setting it on heat level 1, depending on how often it shuts down and restarts. The glow plug powers on for start up and shut down, and this eats up quite a bit of power. Cheers.

Thanks for the comment. I appreciate it !

Oh wow... it's been fairly nice here the past few weeks... 5C here today... but it will be cold soon. One of the features in the controller you may be interested in is correcting your thermostat to match the actual temp of your room. Once in the menu you push the up button 4 times and it says "0C" You can change this to offset. You can change it either + or - to try and match with reality.

​@@loweredexpectations4927 I did adjust it and works now fine. Also the weather is now at 0C so it goes off and on now. Auto on/off is great feature. I wish it didnt stop the fan though... Webasto Airtop 2000 doesn't. So the temperature inside doesn't fluctuate so heavily in my trailer with webasto. But i put a blower in it and it runs always, switching it manually. I reckon i could solder extra wires on motherboard for a fan relay, so it would be off when the cdh is on, and goes on when ther cdh fan goes off.

Thanks for the comment !

HAHA... Wow... that sounds like something that would totally happen to be !! Yeah... the manual that I have, and instructions that others have given me either do nothing or do really strange things on this controller. I found a menu that has a bunch of stuff that appears to just give you info but not allow you to change anything. I think it was up and down or down and menu. EIther way, it was not helpful. Cheers !

Hey my exactly heater also overheats on level 6...I only have a 2doot hose though.. I think my issue might be the fact I have a 90° bend in the ducting about 6inches from the heater.

@@randybobandy9828 Hello Randy. If you have a 90 bend in the ducting hose, that is very likely the issue. You can always disconnect the heater and run it at level 6 or 10 and see what happens. These heaters are fairly sensitive to air flow If the air flow is blocked at all they tend to have issues.

@@randybobandy9828 Yes, probably. From my limited experience, these heaters do not like any restrictions in the heat output ducting as this is the only way heat is removed from the heat exchanger and, if that heat can not be removed efficiently, then the temps climb. With my 8 foot collapseable hose I could not run over level 3 without overheating shutdown. I cut the extra part from the hose so it is now 4 ft. This helped but I could still not run it very high. I then positioned my heater outside my van as to make a straight shot with the hose to my input port with no sharp bends. That really helped. I still can not run it on high before shutdown without the heat getting too high but, now I go outside and disconnect the hose and I can turn it all the way up for 10 minutes to burn off the soot and it does not overheat. I read these flexible hoses cause a lot of backpressure because of all the intetior ribs. Once i mount my heater to the side of my van i am going to use a metal duct tube that is smootb.

Thanks for the comment. I appreciate it. I have another video where I show how to shut the voice off... apparently it says in the manual, but I figured it out on my own and thought I was brilliant, haha.

Haha... yeah... the manual is BAD. I have another video showing how to shut the voice off, of you haven't found that yet. The clock on these tends not to keep time. I don't actually use my clock, but I have heard from several people that the clock loses as much as 10 minutes a day.

​@@loweredexpectations4927in mine the clock is faster! It wins 5 minutes a day! Thanks for the video! Loved it!

Thanks for the comment ! I'm glad it helped !!

Thanks for the comment and for sharing your story ! So glad this helped.

If you've just gotten your heater new I suggest periodically running sea foam through your fuel tank (50ml/5litres), also running on high for 15 mins after a long burn on low. I'm sure you know most of this, friendly reminder 🇨🇦

@@Tannertraversed Thanks for the comment. What is the purpose of the seafoam? I assume it is intended to remove junk from the burn area. When these heaters are running well (proper air fuel ratio) they run for years without any real soot or ash build up. While I have heard many people say to run your heater on high before shutting down, a few of my tests seem to show that the temperature of the burn chamber (not the exchanger) actually runs cooler, due to the extra combustion air flow. I used thermocouples on the chamber for a few different tests, and notied this trend. It appears it actually runs hottest / retains the most heat at setting 5.

Google seafoam for the best description. I've never heard of a diesel engine running without build up but maybe you've found the proper ratio but still hard to believe. I run my heater on 5 when I intend to do a clean burn, I've never done tests but maximum output isn't necessary considering 5 is within the max settings. I wonder why they've engineered the units to do a burn off cycle with glow plug if you've found that these heaters when running on proper air/fuel ratio have zero buildup 🤔 I don't mind the initial start up but the burn off during shut down I feel is unnecessary.

@@Tannertraversed Great observations / questions. It is a mistake to assume that these heaters are anything like a diesel engine, other than the fuel they burn. Well.... Maybe some other similarities... but let me get to my points. These heaters are basically a candle with a fuel pump that delivers fuel to the wick and use a fan to maintain AFR. There is no misting or spray of fuel, no injector and the system is not pressurized. The fuel flashes off on a wick at the entrance of the burn chamber. Good question about the glow plug. This may take a little explanation. The glow plug on these heaters is surrounded by a mesh that is used to start the combustion process. Fuel dribbles in onto the mesh and plug and runs down onto the wick. For the start up process, the plug first turns on for a minute, and then, once hot, the fuel pump starts. The flame and burn move to the wick area. Once the heater is running for a minute, the glow plug turns off, but the fuel is still delivered through the same feed, dribbling over the mesh and glow plug. The glow plug does not stay hot during normal operation and the burn takes place, starting in the wick area and exiting the chamber. When you shut the heater down, the fuel pump stops and the plug turns back on to burn cleaning off the plug and burning away any fuel that dribbles in after the pump stops. This is to stop the plug and heater from being "flooded" and keep it starting more reliably and cleaner.

Yeah, I think there are a few now that do this. They are not nearly as accurate as the thermostat in your house, for example, but it works ok in some situations.

@@loweredexpectations4927 That makes sense. I am sure the temperature probe quality and programming isn't exactly the best.

Awesome ! The egr set up does seem like it would be more ideal... but anything is better than throwing the heat away 🤟. The peltier might work... based on what David had to do to run his heater, I'd guess that may be a bit of a struggle. Then again, I'm not sure how many watts a little pump would draw.

Thanks !

Thanks for your comment !

Thanks. I have another video I released recently showing how to mute the voice or switch languages... I have been asked about this by many people.

Here is that video. Mute Your Diesel Heater Voice - Silence Heater Controller kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qblyqpublsvUlHU.html

Thanks for the comment. As a few commenters have pointed out. Where it says "0C" in the menu (7:02 in this video), this is how you correct the thermostat.... it has + or - 9C or compensation, so you can try to match the controller to actual room temp. It is important to note that the controller has the heat sensor in it, so if it is mounted to a hot or cold wall, or in a area closer or further from the heater, near a draft etc.... this will greatly affect the reading.

Yeah. I haven't messed with it still. Unfortunately, it appears none of the clocks keep time well, so if set a timer, you need to be aware of that.

@@loweredexpectations4927 Thanks for the reply. So I messed with the timer late last night after watching this video. This is what I found. Heater running, press and hold M for 3 seconds. Time of day displayed. Press Up button and the ON timer is displayed. Set this timer for the time of day you want the heater to start by using the M and Up/Down buttons to get it set in 24 hour format. Press Up to enter the Off timer. Set this for how long you want the heater to run. This timer is a bit different from most. The timer can only be set in 30 minute intervals. 0.30, 1, 1.30 etc, up to a max of 10.00 hours. Once set the next menu will be to turn the timer off or on. I also recommend you turn off AU as we don't need it. Power button to exit the menu. I set mine to come on at 10:00pm (22:00), and run for 2 hours. I set the temperature to 26 deg C. The heater did start at 10:00 and ramped up to full heat. I stopped testing at this point. Hope this info was of some use to everyone reading.

​@@3dphillo396 Great info.... I hope this helps others !

@@3dphillo396.. thank you 🙏

Thanks for the support and your comment ! Much appreciated. What are you heating with your heater ? Just curious as people use them for so many different things.

@@loweredexpectations4927 Single car garage here in Kitchener Ontario Canada

Haha... thanks for the comment ! I appreciate it. Glad this helped.

Thanks for the comment. According to the manual, 8C is the lowest setting. I haven't actually checked. It would be nice if it was closer to freezing, but I suspect that set to 8C it would fluctuate close to 0C.

Blower ? What am I miss, haha? I feel like I walked in on the middle of a conversation.

Thanks for the comment.

Thanks for the comment. Someone else also pointed this out. Do you have a manual that actually tells you this, or did you find the info somewhere else. Just curious. I'm pretty sure that my controller does not read the temperature correctly due to where I have it mounted, but I'm okay with it as long as it keeps my truck warm, haha. That being said, 12C error would be annoying !

I hadn't even considered that when I made the video. It is fairly new, so perhaps the app developers will add some features and allow a change to F. I love the app and don't mind it being simple if it works, but it would be nice if they add a few more things.

No. They have several models of heaters that do not have Bluetooth. Some that are very basic and some that have an engineering mode. Yes, the thermostat is built into the control unit. You can get extension cables on aliexpress. You will need to make sure it has the same connector. I extended mine with some 16 gauge wire.

Thanks for the comment / info. A few other viewers have pointed this out and I have pinned a comment about this to the top of the comment list. Cheers !

Sorry for the delayed response. Yes, the heat sensor in in the controller. The controller must be in the location that you are trying to heat. The app / your phone just reads the information form the controller. There is, however, as second temp sensor on the heater itself, that monitors the heat. It is used for safety shutdown, if it gets too hot. This is displayed on the center of your app between battery voltage and heat setting.

This is good info for people to know, but your negative spin on it is unnecessary. Most heaters do not have Bluetooth control at all.... so in my mind, it is not useless... It does exactly what I want it to do. Turn the heater on and off, and displays a little info. What I hear you saying, is that you expected much more out of this heater and were forced to Lower you Expectations ... see what I did there. Seriously though. I'd rather have an app that works and is easy to use, than an app that intends to allow me to do other things, but is either too complicated or glitchy to use. I have a GoPro Hero 10 and it has all sorts of Bluetooth capability, on paper... I never use it because it's complete garbage, and it was $500.... and not a great camera either. I have talked about the fact that it lowers temp level too soon in level mode... This is annoying, and I generally compensate by setting my thermostat much higher, when that feature is used ... also not ideal. From my experience, it will never reach the "target temp" so setting it higher works fine for me. You can probably compensate for this by using the temp compensation and tricking your thermostat into thinking it is colder than it actually is... again, not ideal. I hope that the manufacturer improves this in their next version, but it What was your old heater ? Perhaps share that info just in case others are interested.... and your old heater had a smart mode that actually worked ?

@@loweredexpectations4927 Nice pun lol I recalibrated my heater to -9c which is the max with no luck. To put it simple, it can’t reach target temp for my application on smart mode. My previous diesel heater was fibefly, didn’t require any temp calibration, no Bluetooth, $60 more, but it would be full blast until target temp was hit then default to a low idle. Which I’d rather it shut off, but it wasn’t a deal breaker. I wish I seen your video before I bought a vevor model. I’m adding a switch bot thermostat so it can control my switch bot by turning the heater on and off via wifi or temp. You should look into it as well, I can turn on my heater anywhere in the world

@@BkBootKrust Firefly, is that a patio heater... I did a search and that's what I came up with. These heaters are far from perfect, but I find myself amazed that they work as well as they do, for under $200 CAD and never disappointed. If it had a volume knob style heat control and came without any accessories, that's more what I would expect, but I think we are a little spoiled, haha... Hopefully it doesn't end any time soon. I agree that reaching your set temp and throttling back would be a lot better... I assume that they don't do this on the diesel heaters (some) as they are intended for a really small space, the cab of a car or truck. If it was set to 75F and waited till it was 70F to turn down, it could overshoot considerably... I think this is why they throttle back so early, and also why they call it smart ... because it does think ahead... it's just very wrong when used in a larger space ... or in my case, used to pull in cold air instead of recirculate. A company called Bureck is sending me there thermostat that allows you to make all sorts of changes. It's not terribly expensive and looks like it will be helpful for a lot of people. I believe the Afterburner controller connects via wifi as well and allows you to connect from anywhere.

Yes... You have to pull the fuse, or disconnect the power. Reconnect the power, and then press the down arrow for 7 seconds. "300" will appear and start counting down. Press the power button to stop. If you have to do it again, you have to disconnect the power again... pain in the butt...

Interesting... You can never count on KZfaq to actually do what it's supposed to, haha. HAHA ! 🤣 I blame your government... it believes your views are being exported and they aren't getting their cut of the profit !

@@loweredexpectations4927 😂🤣 maybe, they are indeed quite desperatly digging for pennies right now.

Thanks for the comment ! Do you mean in a video or just answering your comment ? I can tell you that there's no difference physically, between the 5 and 8 and they even use the same pump. I have heard that some 8 kw units overdrive the pump a little in the max setting, to produce a little more heat, but have not experienced this myself. I am interested in testing this to the extreme at some point.... not sure how soon. Cheers !

Yes, that is correct. The temp is read at the controller / display. You can buy extension wires for these, with a little searching on Google... just make sure you get the correct one as there are many different ones. I made my own just by extending the wires .

@@loweredexpectations4927 thanks for confirming, appreciated.

I haven't tried this yet. I currently have this heater in my truck, so it isn't ideal for that sort of experiments. I do have another heater that I do such experiments with, and I plan on doing that exact test. Perhaps beating a barrel of water or sand, ... depending on how efficiently I can remove the heat so that the exhaust is leaving at about room temperature.

Shipping is almost always a $hit show .... They have shipped mine out and sent me tracking, but I haven't checked ... it'll get here when it does. The controller I am using is the OEM controller that came with the Vevor heater... Their Bluetooth controller.

It appears I either forgot, or wasn't able to find links at the time... I have now added some.

This heater does not have access to an engineering menu. That being said, if your heater is overheating, there is a problem. Some sort of blockage in the combustion air inlet/ filter, a plugged or kinked exhaust, or too much restriction on the ducted or cool air inlet. It would be a good idea to diagnose this properly so you don't have serious / dangerous issues in the future. You can try running the heater on a bench to see if it still overheats, then add components to see if one of them causes a problem. If the heater is installed in a really small space, this could also cause are restriction and overheating. The fact that it is doing it on the low setting sort of indicates that it is an air restriction to the combustion air inlet, but it could be something else.

You can purchase extension wires on Amazon (sometimes) and aliexpress. There are a few different plugs so make sure you get the right one. If you have this specific heater, you probably can't find an extension yet. You could take the controller to an electronics shop and ask for some of the connectors (tell them what you are doing) and they can probably provide you with a solution.... OR you can do what I did and cut and solder in an extension.

You need the ECU and controller as a set. The black one in this video is great, as long as you don't want unlimited control of the heater... If you want to tinker with it then you may want something else. There are a few different blue controllers. The one with blue digits gives you the least amount of control and info, some of the red digit ones give you access to control a bunch of stuff in an engineering menu.

Hello. If you can find the controller and ECU, you can swap them into just about any 5 or 8kw heater, but I have not been able to find them, and I don't know that this would be cost effective. If you are looking for the auto on / off feature, you may want to look into a product called the Bureck thermostat. I have one that I will be testing soon.

The bluetooth controller compensates automatically. If you look at the app, you will see the elevation in the top left corner. The ECU knows the barometric pressure and sets the fuel accordingly. I believe it only has one low and one high map. Meaning, it is not infinitely variable (I assume). So if you are at sea level, it will run off one AFR map, and if you go above 3500ft (for example) it changes to the higher elevation map. If you do not have the Bluetooth controller, there may be a button to set it to "alpine" aka "plateau" mode. How to do this varies from controller to controller. The old style / original style, has manual compensation that you access through an engineering mode. Generally have red digits. If this is your controller, there are many videos on how to do this.

🤣 I don't know about that.... I think "lord Joel" doesn't really roll off the tongue. How about supreme heater guru, second in command. Supreme commander being David McLuckie.

Yes... A bunch of people have informed me that that is for calibrating your thermometer. You can apparently set it plus or minus 9C. The thermometers are often off because of where they are mounted, or what they are mounted to. Air flow, or lack of air flow can have a dramatic effect, and having the controller mounted to a hot or cold surface will also change the reading.

I honestly haven't had time to use this at all, other than to demonstrate it for the video. Someone commented on my video in the past few weeks actually answering this question, but I can't remember. I think they said it was 4 degrees swing, but I could be mistaken. Again. I think it may be adjustable in the menu that I show in this video, but I hadn't had time to tinker with it. The manual is basically useless, so the only way for me to find out is to sit there for hours playing with it. There are a few items in the menu that I have no idea what they are... so this may be the swing setting.

The control panel pops out of the holder on the metal case, and disconnects from the plug. I then just used some tacky tape to stick it on my dash.

No, not on this model. Adjusting the hz and fan speed is intended for elevation compensation, although, people use it for other things. This heater has automatic elevation compensation, and most other new models have an alpine mode to correct for higher elevation. Lowering the fan speed to get more heat is not wise. All you are doing in this case is producing heat and keeping it in your heater. You want the heat in your living space. While the temperature may be lower, that is because the heat energy is now in your living space.

A good idea would be to figure out what the problem is. There is one fan to control combustion air as well as heating air, so speeding up fan to cool it off is not a good idea. Remove the heater or remove the hose, and test it with the hose off. Diagnose why the heater is actually overheating, and then you can decide how you want to go about addressing the problem. Might be a pain in the ass, but it's the safe and smart thing to do. 👍 You got this !

@@loweredexpectations4927 ya I need to just take the ducting off and see if it still over heats on high, if it fixes it the. That shape 90 bend is the issue.

@@randybobandy9828 Hopefully this is easy to sort out 👍👍

The Bluetooth app shows you the voltage. If I remember correctly, there is a way to view it ... press the up and down arrow at the same time for a few seconds and there is another menu you can scroll through. If you have a controller controller that uses the 1688 (engineering menu) that is not at all like this remote. A glow plug error almost always means that there is no continuity to the glow plug. It may be that it is unplugged from the ECU or the plug could be bad.

Interesting... I hadn't even considered that. It does not look like there is a way. That is odd.

It is called airHeaterByBLE and you pair by clicking the "scan" in the top right ... then select your heater and it connects ... I have done several and it works flawlessly.

As far as I know, this is not possible either. I have no use for a clock that doesn't keep time, so I also find this annoying.

@loweredexpectations4927 yeah it is a REALLY BAD clock LOL. Thanks!

Haha ! What ? Are you talking about the actual heater, the heater vent or the controller ? The heater is mounted out of the way so that I can transport all of my parts and tools without interfering with it. Also, where it can't be seen and stolen. The vent is mounted in a convenient place and points at my tool bag to keep my tools warm. That being said, I also chose to mount it where it is because I was concerned that a 5kw heater may be WAY overkill, as I had used one to heat my garage, so I didn't want to recirculate air from the cab. Now that I have done a bunch of testing, I do plan on relocating the heater, and probably installing a larger fuel tank.

I believe so... However, I think all of their Bluetooth controllers are the same ?... Just on different heaters. I have only used / see this one.

If you can find the parts, then yes, this is very easy to do. As you say, you will need the controller and motherboard (ecu).

Hey... Thanks for the support. I hope you have figure this out... There is an arrow up, arrow down, on the left is the menu button and on the right is the power button. Push the power button and it should say "start heating" or whatever it says... then it will take a minute before the pump starts and fires up. Let me know if you have more problems.

Actually, I got it working now. My power supply was insufficient. Once I hooked it to a battery and waited a bit, it came on and heated just fine. Thanks for your vids.

@@lynnkasdorf7258 Awesome ! Good to hear. Your power supply may be sufficient to keep your battery topped up. The heater will pull about 10 amps on start up, but once it's up and running you can get away with about 4 amps, maybe less. Last year I ran a small battery and a 4 amp battery charger and never had an issue.

Thanks for the comment. Yes, this heater has auto elevation compensation. This does not have a "secret code" engineering menu, like those older controllers. Although this does offer plenty of adjustment, unless you really know what you are doing (contrary to what the videos say) most people are more likely to cause problems by messing with those adjustments. Cheers.

The secret code is used typically if you're going to try to use an alternative fuel.

​@@johnwyman6126 The secret code "engineering menu" does not exist on most new controllers as it is one more thing for people to mess up, haha. On the old controllers (still sold on some new heaters), they did not have automatic elevation compensation. When you go up in elevation, the heater will require less fuel so the ability to change air fuel ratio manually, was necessary. Most new heaters either have a high elevation mode, that you switch with the single push of a button, or switch automatically based on air pressure. Some heaters are designed to run on gasoline as well as diesel. However, retailers & manufacturers do not want people putting alternative fuels into their product and I highly doubt that this was one of the considerations for this feature / adjustment.

I should make a video on priming the pump... Remove the fuse, or disconnect power to the heater. Reconnect the power, and before you do anything else, press and hold the down arrow for 7 seconds. 300 will appear and it will start priming. Press power to stop at any times. If you want to prime again, you have to disconnect and reconnect power... yes, it sucks. I hope this helps.

Yeah, I think this is probably accurate, but have not tested it. I would like to check this and now have a 2kw unit... so maybe soon we can stop guessing. It has been quite warm here lately though... Not very good for testing.

​@@loweredexpectations4927 I just installed a 2kw in my subaru impreza hatchback and even at the minimum setting it can turn the cab into an oven with -8C outside...

@@flack3 Yeah. I installed a 2kw unit into my buddies 4Runner. What we are wondering is if the 2kw and 5kw heaters are the same heat output on setting 1 or if the 5 puts out more heat at setting 1.

Unfortunately, you can not access engineering settings on this heater. The fan and pump speeds are not adjustable independently.

@@loweredexpectations4927 ok thank you so much!

Sorry to hear you are having issues. What controller do you have ? I am at 3500 feet, here in Calgary, Alberta, Canada, and I have no issues at all even when running my heater in "normal mode" for sea level. Most of the lower end controllers will have something called "plateau mode" ... this feature leans out the air fuel ration to stop it form overheating, making soot and lots of CO. I have never seen a heater that doesn't have prime mode, other than the ones with the volume knob... The controller I have allows you to prime, but will only allow it once when you first connect the power. After that you need to disconnect power, reconnect and press the down key for 7 seconds. The motherboard (ECU) has 100% of the functionality, so if your heater is having overheat issues, I suspect it is either an air blockage issue (exhaust, combustion air inlet, duct air inlet or duct air outlet... they are very sensitive so you need to be mindful of this.... If you are forcing air into a small area instead of recirculating, this could be the problem. I suggest checking the heater over carefully and running it without anything attached, other than the fuel line and electrical connector. Run it in the open and see what happens. If it works ok, add the exhaust and try again. Then the inlet, and so on... Once again. I'm at 3500 ft and I run my heater at the sea level setting... it runs about 210C all day. If I put it in alpine mode / plateau mode, it drops to 185C. Cheers and good luck.

@@loweredexpectations4927 Thanks for the reply. I have the cheapest one on Vevor, with the 3 buttons on the bottom of the controller, green numbers. There is a prime mode in the directions, but I have not been able to activate it after trying 15 different times with the directions and various button combinations. You are supposed to hold the power and up button for 7 seconds but that combination is for another menu after 3 seconds and even holding it longer does not enter prime mode. The heater gets unplugged after every attempt/shutdown. It is how I discovered the "more info" menu. There is one in there that has a mountain which I am guessing is the plateau mode but I am unable to change any of the settings in that menu. I am guessing that is why they sell a "plateau module". The menu shows the outdoor temp, the heater temp, error code, run count and a few others. When it overheats and shuts down it shows E-05 on the main screen, and E-09 in the secondary menu. There are no kinks in the air inlet or the exhaust hoses, just the 90° bend to get them out the side. The heater tube is straight out with the deflector on it. I will remove it and the screw on cap on the inlet for most airflow possible and see if that helps. I have been running it in a 12'x16' shed by the door with it wide open so airflow isn't an issue. Thanks for the suggestions. hopefully I can get it working.

​@@Riyame As I said in this video, I have noticed that the manual is less than helpful. I have had several people tell me that they contacted Vevor and have gotten assistance with the actual instructions on how to do things. I'm not sure that will work for you, but it's worth a try. "Plateau" or alpine mode don't have settings. They are either on or off. The heater basically has two fuel settings. Plateau module, may just mean an ECU that has a specific elevation feature. There is not add on module. Error 5 and 9 are the same thing, but the heater doesn't know if it's a faulty sensor or if it is really overheating. If it is operating normal up until it gets hot and then shuts down and shows the code(s), chances are the sensor is fine and it really is getting too hot. The 2kw heaters are not as sensitive to air flow, but the 5 and 8 kw units may overheat if you have a 90 in the duct work, especially if it is close to the heater. Good luck !

Hey Pub. From what I can tell, they are not available through any of the usual places... I actually did some looking, because I knew this question was coming. From What I know, Vevor doesn't do any parts at all. You may be interested in the Bureck remote that I mentioned at the fist of this video. It uses the signal from your current remote (most remotes) and gives you the ability to set a full weekly heat schedule, as well as set temperature swing. Meaning when you set the heater to 19C, you can have it turn you heater off at 19, but also choose when it turns back on. Instead of turning back on at 18 or 17, you can set it for 15 so that your heater doesn't turn on and off 20 times every hour. I haven't tested it yet, but if it works the way they claim it does, it will be a pretty awesome product. I almost bought a new heater to use the old one as spare parts, or as a backup heater. They sell for $169.99 ...By the time you get the controller, a burn chamber and a few other parts... Of course, not everyone tortures their heater like I do, haha.

@@loweredexpectations4927 Thanks Joel. I might check out that controller, or just wait for you to review it first😁. Supposed to get a big dump of snow in ole cow town tonight so I'll be running the heater in the garage for sure.

@@PUBHEAD1 They have shipped the remote, so I should have it pretty soon. The heavy snowfall warning caught be off guard. I went and got more fuel and ... I may run my heater to see if I can keep my truck thawed off.

I just found the answer to this myself, the other day. The app will only connect to one heater at a time. If you want to control a different heater, you hit the scan, on the top right, and disconnect... you then select the other heater. It is a bit of a pain until you figure it out. PS... it is a good idea to look at the last 3-4 digits of the heater code before disconnecting, so that you don't make a mistake and reconnect to the same heater. It would be nice if they allowed you to change the names of each heater... but they just have a serial number or something.

LOL... that's good. Vevor las vegas ! Yes... the orange body 2kw heaters are small body. There may be others as well, but I know these are for sure, as I have 2 of them. You can get it in Bluetooth or not.

I have affiliate links in some of my newer videos for the 2 kw. I will try to send a link for Canada and US... not sure where you are. s.vevor.com/bfQHG0 Canada s.vevor.com/bfQEYL US

Now that you mention it, I think my clock may change time as well. That is odd.

No... it has automatic elevation adjustment. That feature is on older heaters, to allow you to set the air fuel ratio, and this one does it for you. Most heaters will now have "alpine" or "plateau" mode for high elevation where you push a button to compensate, and the original style controllers require manual adjustment.

Ok, because I was trying to use the Bluetooth controller and the motherboard of a new 5kw on the old 2kw, it is working fine but obviously parameters are for the 5kw, so I can't use it in max / auto mode otherwise it would get smoky due to the amount of fuel set for the 5kw. Was wondering if there is a way to make it work properly then.

@@matteoschiatti8691 Okay... that makes sense. Yes... the fuel will be WAY off. Unfortunately, there isn't an easy way to do this. The only way would be to make an electronic device that modified the HZ of the pump output and reduced it to a reasonable level. Other than that... you may be able to do the math and find a much smaller fuel pump. I'm not even sure if they make such a thing.

If you can find the controller and ECU, then yes.... I have not been able to find these separately. You do need to swap the ECU and controller as a set. Also, the whole heater is pretty inexpensive, so it may not be cost effective.

They have auto compensation. I'm not sure if it will be enough for 8000ft though. My other heater that has a manual setting "alpine mode" runs pretty hot at 4000ft in normal mode (210-220C) and in alpine mode 185.

@@loweredexpectations4927we’ll I guess we will find out! Fingers crossed I’ll follow up with my findings

@@Therealpotato12 In my email notification your name shows up as "Carol Baskin" (not sure if I got the spelling right) .... but here as the real potato I was very confused and amused. Good luck.

@@loweredexpectations4927yes I recently changed my KZfaq account information after several people tried accessing my KZfaq and gmail account 😂 you can call me potato.

If you can do this is a very controlled way, this could work. I have found that these heaters are very particular and making changes like this, though simple in concept, can be a lot more difficult than expected.

Thanks for the comment ! I do not know if any way to turn. the voice off. This is not an ideal solution, but placing a piece of foam tape over the speaker would likely quiet it substantially. I have a meat thermometer that I use as a heat pribe for other things. It was always beeping, so I popped it open and cut the wires to the speaker. Not sure if that's possible for this controller.

@@loweredexpectations4927 Another video said how to, click the down and M buttons together (will cycle through languages) till it says OF as language.

@@hyppievanman There are a lot of similar controllers to this that have different commands. I don't believe that does anything on this controller. I did access a menu of info that you couldn't change anything. Much of what the user manual says is incorrect / for another heater.

I've had this heater for a bit now and purchased the Bureck thermostat because I was tired of waking up to 80 degrees inside. Didn't realize it actually had auto on/off! BTW the bureck works well for programming Temps and times. I have it set to warm up my camper in the morning so my batteries are warm enough to be solar charged. Bureck did have to send me new code to work with this heater properly. They were great to work with.

Do you happen to know the swing that the auto on/off works with (temp it'll turn back on after reaching set temp).

Not that I have been able to find, yet, but I have a feeling they will come later this year or next winter. I am pretty frugal myself, but if you can afford it, it almost makes more sense to buy the whole unit and have the old one as a backup or for spare parts. That being said. It looks like they are sold out in a few countries.

Access to a engineering menu is only really necessary if you want to tinker with the heater. The bluetooth controller has automatic elevation compensation that corrects the fuel ratio for you, so you don't need control if the Hz and fan speed. Made simple. Access to the engineering menu was for correcting your air fuel ratio, depending on your elevation / air density. New controllers either have a "alpine" or "plateau" mode for high elevation, or automatic compensation based on barometric pressure. This video shows how to switch the bluetooth controller from C to F. The fob with the built in LCD appears to only come with the mid school controllers. No engineering and no bluetooth. There is an aftermarket controller called the afterburner... It is made in Australia and is about $130 US... I believe. It gives you an insane amount of control... everything you could ever want. It uses wifi and you can connect from anywhere and change just about anything. David McLuckie has videos about this. Cheers.

@@loweredexpectations4927 Thanks for the info. I do not need high altitude adjustment but might want to play with alternative fuels, hence my desire to tweak things. What about the controllers that have the round rotary knob on the right?

​@@lynnkasdorf7258 All of the rotary knob controllers that I have seen are extremely basic. I spent 4 months last year burning all sorts of alternative fuels and air fuel ratio was never an issue, despite what many claimed.... There are some fuels like gasoline or alcohol where it would be beneficial to change the AFR, but those fuels won't work well due to the design of the chamber. Light oil fuels like kerosene, paint thinner etc. all require around the same AFR as diesel... Heavy oils like engine oil, trans fluid, gear oil etc, will all leave behind ash, even if you have a perfect burn, that will lead to plugging your burn chamber up quickly. Hope this helps.

Good stuff !

Hey Kirk. I didn't see it was you when I wrote this comment. From what I understand, the 5 and 8 kw heaters are the same thing. There are no 8 kw heaters. :) That being said. Hclroy or whatever, apparently makes a physically larger unit that is called a 8kw and a few people have commented on my videos saying that they have received larger 8kw units from Vevor... I have not gotten more details. I have a 5kw in m truck and a 2kw that I've used for other things... They deliver vastly different amounts of fuel. Not 100% sure about the 5 to 8.

@@loweredexpectations4927 what's the software version on your 5kw Bluetooth heater?

@@kirkwalsh1932 Does it tell you when it powers on ... or do you find that in the settings menu. I just tried to connect to my heater and it appears the battery is dead in my truck...

@@kirkwalsh1932 Yeah. My battery is so dead my charger wouldn't recognize it. I had to use another battery to jump power to it so that my charger would start charging... stupid charger.

@@loweredexpectations4927 with power on its the first numbers in the up&down button menu. I'm thinking if you're running at 215C on high same as my 8kw the main boards are probably the same. The 2kw Bluetooth is U11-101 I think, cannot confirm tho. Saw that SW version on a different BT video.

Haha... I have heard a few people tell me that she has scared the $hit out of them while trying to sleep. I did find a way to turn the voice off and made a video about it... I will try to post the link in another response.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qblyqpublsvUlHU.html

Hey Rim ! That's awesome ... way more fun working on stuff at +18 than +4 !!! To change your controller to operate by temp instead of HZ> When you press your OK button once you get the room temperature, press OK again and you get the HZ... while in this mode, press the gear / settings button and up arrow at the same time. This will then display your preset temp. Hope this works for you !

@@loweredexpectations4927 thank you. I should try and dial in my heater as unlike the other one I can see it have more than 210 celcius. I have seen 237 and that was a little scary but nothing happened. I can adjust the HZ all the way up to 8HZ and I tried setting the fan at 5000rpm and then I fed it more and more Hz until i had 220celsius and the hertz at that point was about 6.5. So this pump sure can pump some heat and fast also but I can also see it almost use 40% more fuel than the other one. Guess by adding more fuel, more air around the burn chamber to cool it down I can have much more than 5kw from this. It's a "8kw" but someone that can calculate can maybe find out the difference within 4500rpm and 5000 on the fan and then the % increase that have should be about the % more kw extra than the 5kw these gives stock. But I noticed first day when it was stock it ran at 230celcius at max power, but then the pump was factory set at 4400 or 4500. I wonder if it has like a total reset so if I mess around to much I can go back to stock settings? I'm guessing it are 1.7hz-4.5hz and 1500rpm-4500rpm I didht check because i was so excited over the secret menu.

​@@RimjobHimself Hey ! 237 is high for sure, and you should slow the fuel pump down some, or increase the fan speed. It isn't anything to worry about though. Some of these heaters have a thermal shutdown at 236 (my original heater) and some of them shut down somewhere over 250. I don't think there is a factory reset ... and I believe the min pump hz should be lower than 1.7 closer to 1.2. I would just run it at 1500 rpm and adjust the fuel so that it was around 200C. As for the max setting, and it burning a lot more fuel... Yes, this is true. The heater will be less efficient at higher fan speeds, as more hot exhaust air is being pushed outdoors. If you want to get the maximum amount of heat, and don't care about efficiency, crank it to 5000 rpm and adjust your fuel so that it is 220 / 230 C. Diesel will continue to make a LOT of heat even when you are running quite rich, but it will eventually make a lot of CO and soot. It is more wise to run the heater at 4000 - 4500 rpm and 210 - 220 C. 👍

@@loweredexpectations4927 needed to read that a few times, in my mind if I run the fan at 5000 or 4500 it will heat up the room faster and quicker and that's what I'm wanting it to do also. But I also don't want the exhaust to be glowing like yours has been at times either haha due to safety as I sometimes leave the room. I have seen some people tuning the heater by looking at the bars on the display and going up and down at Hz until it just about was between maximum all bars and about to drop one bar. Maybe I overcomplicate it just by going and adjusting it and looking at the temperature that will only show up on the remote (the 210-230 C i was talking about) on the new heater but on the old heater I could just press the ok button on the display and it will show me the case temperature (210) all day long. In my mind that leave me without worries as I know it's most likely burning as clean and hot it can. The new also blue controller unit I need as said to take a readout using the remote, kinda annoying as I just like my remotes to hang by my bed and not have one of them in my pocket. Any suggestions on why or how I don't get the case temperature on the display controller? Just on the fob? (See now I remembered you called the remote a fob ;) )

​@@RimjobHimself Your fan speed is part of the equation. You need to be making heat so that the fan can carry the heat away. If your fan is turning fast, but you set your pump too low, it may only maintain a temp of 130 or something like that. You need to burn enough fuel so that you have a decent temp on the heat exchanger. Anything under 210 is very safe. When you crank up your fan speed, this no only increases the air flow over the heater, but also the combustion air. This extra air means that you can add more fuel without going rich.... Maybe you already knew this, but I didn't want to assume. My exhaust was glowing due to unburnt fuel, caused by burning oil. You will have to burn a LOT of excess diesel before it ever gets to this point. If you check you exhaust outlet and it is full of soot, then you are burning too much fuel. People tuning the heater by looking at the controller bars is just a less accurate way of using 210C (for example)... those bars are feedback form the temperature sensor, but instead of reading accurately by 1C increments, one bar is several degrees ... if I understand it correctly. If you have two different controllers, the one that stays at 210 all day, likely has built in compensation. My old controller has this. As soon as it is about to go over 210, the computer slows the pump down for a few seconds... I'm not sure if this is the case with your heater. On mine it is the one with blue digits. You should be able to adjust your heater so that it does the same thing and stays right around 210C, but if your ocntroller is more accurate, it will likely fluctuate a bit lower and a bit higher. LOL... You called it a fob ! If I remember correctly, you said your controllers were the same, but your fob colors were different ? Can you post a video to show me exactly what you mean ? From what I understand you are saying that one of your controllers displays temp on it while the other does not, and so you have to carry your fob to see the temp ?

I have not been able to find these parts yet, You would have to replace your ECU (motherboard) and controller. I assume that you will start seeing these available late this year.

Can't get it running ? You hit the power button and nothing happens. Can you give me some more details?

Sorry to hear that. What code did you try ? Thanks for the heads up and the comment.

VVPROMO

For sure ! Also.... I'm pretty sure that the manual isn't even for the controller I have.... so that doesn't help. A few things are the same, but most things are totally different .

Oh, you'll catch a glimpse of one now and then if you watch really close, haha.

I would suggest talking to the retailer and getting this taken care of ASAP instead of telling me about it 🤣. But seriously ... Don't wait to tell them. What is it doing or not doing ? Does the controller power on? Can you hear the fuel pump cycle ? Does the fan run ? Have you tried running it through the fuel priming procedure ... happy to help if I can ! But tell them about this. Keep it short and be polite... many times they will let you keep the old product and just send you a new one.

This may or may not help but here it goes. I got the same heater in the video about 2 weeks ago. Prepared it for operation and turned it on. After a minute a little smoke came out but then it hit me with a code. I believe it was code 8 or fule issue code. Thought maybe it just didn't prime correctly so started it up again. Same result after a minute a little white smoke came out exhaust then I got the code 8 again. I'm a farm kid so I'm fairly good at problem solving most mechanical things. Figured it was fuel, air, spark. I took off the housing and sure enough the issue was simple. When I installed the air intake hose I put the fuel line in front of it instead of behind it so it kinked the fuel line. Basically the unit was only getting a tiny amount of diesel. Took the air intake hose off moved the fuel line behind it and smoothed out the kink. I kept the cover off just out of curiosity and fired it up again and it worked like a charm. I've used it several times in different places and settings and I absolutely love it. I have it on a cart hooked to a Trojan 150amp/hour battery and I could not be happier. I've done some initial testing and have found that at about medium heat this unti will hold the temp of my entire house at 65 Fahrenheit with an outside temp between 36-40 Fahrenheit. I've kept precise fuel use notes and at 50% it uses just under a up of diesel per hour. It's pretty insane how efficient these units are. Mine is basically a heat back up to the back up but I still love running it just for fun. Good luck:) ps his videos are top notch.

@@thevegshack6286 Thanks for the detailed comment ! My heater actually came with the fuel line kinked... I found it before I tried firing it up, but yes, this will certainly cause funny things to happen. Glad you used your head and got it sorted out ! These are awesome little units, that's for sure. Incredibly cost effective to purchase and a nice compact, dependable little heat source.

It seems to greatly depend on the weather... I was surprised buy this. I think the most I have gotten is 75 feet(ish) and under most circumstances, sitting in my house with a few walls between me and my truck (not sure if that matters) 60 feet

@@loweredexpectations4927 thanks, reason I ask is some of my Bluetooth items are scetchy at 10 to 20 feet. Lots of variables on all the toys 😉

I am going to attempt to silence mine by modifying it, as a few people have asked about this. On some heaters, (on my other Vevor heater) once it is up and running, you can disconnect the controller from the ECU and it will operate happily... I'm wondering if you need the controller attached at all.... I guess I will give that a try as well. The power that the controller takes is extremely low, but everything makes a difference I guess. You may be able to put it into one of the menu modes and leave it there, without all the lights on.

Are you getting an error message? Have you hit the "scan" on the top right corner ? If so does it display what appears to be a serial number or heate rnumber ?

Yes... I have had a few people mention this... I don't use my clock or set a time on / off, so I hadn't noticed. I set mine last week and now it is WAY off. Not sure if there is any solution for this.

Thanks ! Vevors 2kw heater is a smaller version (physically smaller in every way) compared to the 5/8kw units. I don't have a recommendation for a fuel pump. What sort of issues are you having ? I am using the same one that came with my original Vevor heater and haven't had a single issue. I've run diesel, waste oils, gasoline, methanol, paint thinner and varsol through it for over a year now and it works flawless... I'm honestly shocked.

@@loweredexpectations4927 Thanks, I run 5 heaters, boats, float house and shops. I have the style that does not come apart. I have had a few now, in 3 years, that would not start up, after 2 or 3 months of shut down. I assume the solenoid gets fuel gum on it and sticks.

@@stevecarlisle3323 Very interesting. It could actually be that the abuse has created enough clearance that my bump is more immune to sticking. Or it could be the liberal coating of oil.

@@loweredexpectations4927 that could well be true, as in the early days of my heater acquisition, they recommended adding trans fluid. They have newer style pumps where the shuttle valve can be taken apart. Thanks for your reply, and good luck with your channel, you are doing very well. It's interesting seeing the Mini in the background, my buddy just got his hands on a near new high performance track version, tested at Nuremberg, one of only 2 in Canada.

@@stevecarlisle3323 Thanks ! The heater content seems to to pretty well. Sadly, the mini is gone. I sold it to pay for a milling machine that I am attempting to convert to CNC. In the middle of it all, I am getting separated from my ... common law, and probably won't be able to afford to keep my house. Not sure where things are going to go, but I'll take it as it comes.

How to access the menu and change user settings. The manual that comes with these controllers is way out to lunch. Obviously for a different controller.

maybe it'll work for my e-bike then! (in the uk we're not allowed a throttle above 6kph - only pedal assist) i was waiting to cross the road, not thinking and my hand hit the lever 😬😂@@loweredexpectations4927

That sucks. Fortunately these things are pretty simple, so it should be easy to sort out. Do you have the Bluetooth heater from this video or a different one ? If it is the Bluetooth heater, then it should have automatic elevation adjustment. If it does, it will say what it thinks your elevation is in the top left of the app. Check to see if that is close to correct. If it's not, there's a problem with the ECU. If you have one without elevation compensation, there are two other types. Some have "plateau mode" or "alpine mode" that you must use at higher elevation. If you are at sea level, or up to about 3000 feet, you shouldn't need to worry about this. The third type is the old style controller / ECU that allows you to set the pump and fan speed in an "engineering menu" This determines the air fuel ratio and must be set correctly. They generally come set for sea level. There are videos on how to set this using heat, and that works better than nothing, but ideally you want to have a CO meter. Likely, the ECU is not your problem, unless you are at high elevation 4000 + feet. It is much more likely that your issue has to do with something about your installation. The air inlet and exhaust must not be restricted. This means not too many bends in the exhaust or inlet, no kinks and no blockages. If your heater is installed in a small area, it is possible it can't suck in enough air into the inlet for combustion. Air has to be able to get into the where your combustion air inlet is. If you had a problem and fixed this problem (Kinked intake or exhaust) , but still have carbon build up in the burn chamber, heat exchanger, exhaust port or exhaust pipe, it will continue to have sooting issues until it is completely cleaned. Hopefully this helps.

@@loweredexpectations4927 I built a hot plate like yours and I think there may be too much back pressure. And yes it’s the vevor Bluetooth model it soots up after a couple hours of running on high

@@daronwheeler2768 Oh, yes... that will do it for sure. I did a test (my last video) where I ran my 2kw exhaust into my 5kw ... I didn't notice till after the video, but it did cause some sooting on my 2kw unit. They do not like restrictions. You can still make a hot plate, as long as you don't cause too much of a restriction.

Unfortunately, it doesn't look like there is a way to turn the voice off. I might try to take one of mine apart and see how hard it is to disconnect the speaker.... or if ti destroys the controller. The only admin menu that is accessible on this controller, that I am aware of, is the one that I show how to access in this video. Heater powered on, press and hold the M button. This controller does not have some of the admin features common on old controllers. Changing air fuel ratio, glow plug strength etc.

You sound upset... I hope I can help, but most people won't react well when you come across as being aggressive or angry. When you say "overheats" it turns off and gives you E05 code ? Have you noticed what the exchanger temp is on the app, just before it shuts down? The controller is fine. Your controller may have issues. Maybe we can figure out what's happening. First thing to do is check the app, if you can get that up and running. Look at the elevation in the top left and figure out if that is close to your actual elevation. A google search will likely tell you. If you heater is overheating in 10 minutes, it is possible this has something to do with the tune, however, that would not be my first guess. My guess is that it has something to do with air flow. How many KW is it ? What are you heating with your heater ? Are you recirculating air or pulling in outside air ? Is your exhaust and inlet free of obstruction ? If possible remove them and run the heater for 10 minutes to see if it still overheats. These heaters are very sensitive to air flow, so if you are restricting in inlet air, for combustion or heating air, this can be an issues. If you are restricting the hot air outlet, this can cause the heat to spike. The heater I have in my truck overheats if I turn the OEM heating system on as it restricts the flow of air out of the heater. These pumps are all the same ... if it is louder, this is either you imagination or because of how or where it is mounted, or because the rubber mount is stiffer, transferring more sound.

Perhaps your controller is not a Bluetooth versions ? Is this a Vevor unit ? The Vevor controller connects easier than farting, so I didn't think there was any need to explain, haha. To get the Bluetooth connection, you click on the top right corner of your app where it says "scan". You will see your heater as a code ... You click on that and it will connect. If your heater controller is not showing up when you scan, Bluetooth may be turned off in your controller .... as I do not have the 3 button controller and have never used one, I don't know how to turn it on or off or if it is even possible. Good luck.

Features and settings. Not connecting and disconnecting.

You don’t have the Bluetooth version

@@utech9989 Yeah... to be fair, I could see the same confusion happening to me, haha.

@@Misunderstoodboygenius I also suspect this to be the case.

Hey, thanks for your support. Are you in the US ? The 5 and 8kw units are physically the same, but it appears (based on the specs, that the "5kw" makes about 5.6kw and the "8kw" makes about 6.2kw. This is based on the fuel consumption claims. Actual heat output will depend on elevation as well as a few other things, but the 8kw appears to have an ecu that will deliver a little more fuel. I hope this helps.

yes this helps, and yes im in the US, being on Long Island my elevation is under 100ft = 30.5meters. Do you recommend adding a filter to this unit ? or it has one already installed ? I didn't see it listed. @@loweredexpectations4927