Dryer Not Heating? Heating Element Testing, Troubleshooting

Рет қаралды 1,375,867

13 жыл бұрын

Dryer not heating or taking too long to dry clothes? This video demonstrates how to test a heating element on an electric dryer. The heating element is the most commonly replaced part for an electric dryer that is not heating and not drying clothes.
Other commonly replaced parts for an electric dryer not heating are:
Thermal fuse
High limit thermostat
Cycling thermostat
Main control board
Timer
Moisture sensor
Thermistor
Click here to purchase a replacement dryer heating element:
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Click here to purchase the multimeter used in this part testing video:
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How to disassemble your dryer:
• Whirlpool/Kenmore Drye...
For more DIY videos including part replacement and help finding your model visit the repair help section of our website:
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All of the information provided in this part testing video is applicable to the following brands: Amana, Frigidaire, GE, Kenmore, LG, Maytag, Roper, Samsung and Whirlpool.
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Пікірлер: 82

@mar56cos 2 жыл бұрын

You just saved me from buying a new dryer. $32 dollars for a new heating coil vs a $600 dryer. Thank you! Subscribed!

@JJJumpjet60 11 жыл бұрын

Can't tell you how much I appreciate this simple explanation of testing for continuity. I've owned a multimeter for years and never fully understood how to use it. Thanks so much!!!

@metropolitanveterinarycons4655 6 жыл бұрын

Your videos have saved me quite literally hundreds of dollars over the past few years. I'm not particularly handy, and definitely know when to call a professional, but I am much more capable than I thought! Thank you!

@Cedandkikisailing 5 жыл бұрын

The simplicity of your video is much appreciated. 🙏

@repairclinic 11 жыл бұрын

No problem! Glad we could help!

@repairclinic 11 жыл бұрын

That's great! We're glad to help.

@speedacademydave 8 жыл бұрын

Thank you for your excellent videos! I was able to test both the thermal fuse and heating element and determine which to replace. I sourced a replacement part locally and had my Samsung electric dryer working perfectly within a couple hours. I won't hesitate to buy replacement parts from you online in the future if I can't find them locally. Thanks again!

@takefourmoments 7 жыл бұрын

Um, yeah, Repair Clinic is dope. Thanks for saving our dryer, brah.

@justonemorecast 7 жыл бұрын

Another great video. I will test before I order. thanks for all of your help with my washer and dryer.

@repairclinic 11 жыл бұрын

Glad to help!

@philharmonik77 11 жыл бұрын

Thank you for this useful guide. Helped me out in a jam!!

@314pickleball 5 жыл бұрын

Great video, thanks very much!

@andypham5424 7 жыл бұрын

Great video! My problem was not the heating element, but with the heating timer.

@cyberknight135 10 жыл бұрын

Your video is just what I needed. Thank you for making this so easy to understand. Because of you I will test my own dryer heating element and not let myself be ripped off by another service guy. For the money he charged for the visit, I could have bought a brand new dryer and he didn't even replace what was bad. But a bought lesson is a taught one as they say.

@repairclinic 10 жыл бұрын

We're sorry you had that experience. We're glad we could help out.

@repairclinic 11 жыл бұрын

This video is a testing video and applies to all dryer heating elements.

@ImpactedWizDom 9 жыл бұрын

Problem has been solved! It turned out to be the cycling thermostat after all. When I originally tested that device, I did not have the correct specs so I mistakenly ruled it out as a possible cause. Turns out, it was not cutting power to the heating element until it reached a much higher temp than it was designed to do so, hence causing the overheating issue. Now since replacing it, it works perfectly. I think it's also important to note that the blades on the fan were covered with a buildup of lint which was certainly impeding it's ability to evacuate the heated air effectively. Thanks so much for your help and insight!

@repairclinic 9 жыл бұрын

***** Awesome, Robbie! Glad to know it all worked out.

@dt1mdlara 12 жыл бұрын

Awesome video.

@mobilelasertagparty 11 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

@haffoc 12 жыл бұрын

very helpful.

@terryh.9659 3 ай бұрын

Thanks, very helpful.

@repairclinic 3 ай бұрын

You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!

@fernandorobles6226 8 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your help. you saved me a lot of money on fixing my dryer!!!!!

@repairclinic 8 жыл бұрын

+Fernando Robles Glad we could help.

@TechyRodsWire 11 жыл бұрын

Excellent

@AppliancerepairprosCa 9 жыл бұрын

nice professional video. well done.

@repairclinic 9 жыл бұрын

***** Thank you very much!

@TiMeToRn- 10 жыл бұрын

Model: medc400vw0 On a medium heat or low heat cycle, the breaker trips after about 5 minutes. The dryer is heating properly and the drum is rotating. On "Air Fluff" (no heat) the dryer functions properly for the full 20 minute cycle with no problems. I have checked the screws on the back where plug comes into the dryer. Everything is tight and there is no discoloration in the panel or wiring. This leaves me to suspect either the breaker is going bad or the heating element is going bad. I'm not sure where to go from here. I will try testing continuity. If it's above 50 like the video says, would that mean the breaker is fine and the element is fried?

@mikestone8345 Жыл бұрын

Do you have to pull the heating element out to test it. Or just unplug the dryer to test?

@PseduoLogin 10 жыл бұрын

I have a Whirlpool WED5100VQ1. The dryer only heats on HIGH and doesn't not progress through the Cool Down cycle. I've checked all thermostats and limit switches for continuity. All test fine, but I replaced the cycling thermostat anyway. Could the heating element have a bad section, but still have continuity? Is there a resistance range I could test for to determine? Your videos and info are great - Thank you!

@repairclinic 10 жыл бұрын

+Tim Doyle The element may be shorted to the case making part of the element hot all the time. To check this you will have to remove the wires to the element and check continuity at the element terminals to see if the element is good then from one terminal to the case and then the other to the case to see if the element is shorted. If the element is shorted to the case it will show continuity from one or both element terminals to the case.

@PseduoLogin 10 жыл бұрын

Thank you! Heating Element - I have open circuit from each element terminal to the case. I'm reading 10ohms terminal to terminal. Power terminal block - I have 120V on each leg to common and 240V leg-to-leg. Could it be the timer not initiating the element properly? The dial doesn't progress pass regular drying cycles into Cool Down, it just stops.

@PseduoLogin 10 жыл бұрын

Tim Doyle Replaced the timer tonight - problem solved!!

@dennisreid9280 10 жыл бұрын

I have a problem with my dryer, it wont turn on, i think its the thermal fuse, i was wondering if i were to take out the fuse splice the 2 wires together, would it start if that was the problem? I don't wanna wait for the part to get in if its not the problem. I didnt have any continuity on the fuse.

@repairclinic 11 жыл бұрын

If the heating element is shorted it can keep heating even when the thermostat is off. You can check the element by testing both terminals to ground or the elements case. If you get a reading the element is shorted and will need to be replaced. It is not that uncommon for the heater wires to stretch or break and touch the case. Replacing the element may solve the problem.

@jackle842000 Жыл бұрын

Have a dryer that the element won't heat. When you turn it on plugged in 120v reaches the element fine when you turn the dryer on heat and turn it on. The thermal switches have no resistance when turned off as they should. The element tests good as it has 10 ohm resistance and does not short to ground. There's no apparent physical problem with the element. There's a light blue wire running down towards the motor that seems to have a short to ground but I'm not sure if that's normal being it goes to the motor windings. Seems like I remember that motor wires will show a short to ground. The motor works great. Is there some way that the element could actually be bad anyway? What would be your recommendation to do in this situation? How can the element test good, have 120v going to it, but not heat? Anyone have a clue if the element is bad anyway or is there something else that could cause this?

@Mrcfrickie 10 жыл бұрын

Thanks for posting this! I can only imagine what a appliance company would charge! Happy to tackle it myself.

@repairclinic 10 жыл бұрын

Chris Frickie No problem!

@cyberknight135 10 жыл бұрын

The service person tested the fuses and replaced on high limit thermostat. Said the heating element was working. As soon as I ran 1 load of clothes, it immediately stopped heating again. All I got was cool air. Took it apart, tested high thermostat, lo thermostat, and heating element. High was burned out. Tested a new one and it was working, lo thermostat sill working, heating element still working. After 1 load, cold air, no heat. Since it has to be related to heating element somehow, going to replace. but all I can find for my kitchenaid superba is a 2 prong heating element. It currently uses a 3 prong one. Don't think the 3 prong is being made anymore because I can't find it. How do I convert the wiring to take the three wires down to two safely? Can you tell me how to do that?

@rickeykeeton4770 2 жыл бұрын

How normal is the blackened area on the element from heat. I have seen some like that one just blackened toward the top and some blackened nearly all the way down. Just affect if time and heat? I know some can short to the cabinet when hot and sag.

@DialloKreed 11 жыл бұрын

What if all parts have continuity but the heating element still over heats and blows the thermal fuse? We've had the venting system professionally cleaned and replaced the thermal fuse 3 times already. Also replaced the thermal cutout fuse and high limit thermostat. Do I replace the heating element anyways?

@repairclinic 10 жыл бұрын

Your model is gas powered so it does not have a heating element to test. It may be an air flow problem. The most common cause is a plugged exhaust vent. Our How it Works: Gas Dryer and How it Works: Electric Dryer may be helpful to you. You can search for those in our channel search box. We wish you a fast and successful repair.

@johngarner7284 3 жыл бұрын

I have 9.15 ohms on the thermistor, continuity on the thermal fuse next to it, the heating element and the high limit thermostat. Yet, the thermal fuse on the heating element housing keeps blowing. My blower is clean and I have awesome air flow at the vent cap. Any ideas?

@isaacnelson4125 8 жыл бұрын

awsome

@katraju 10 жыл бұрын

Maytag dryer LDG8904AAE, works only in 'time mode' but gets hot on the top to touch. It does not heat at all in 'electronic modes'. What could be the issue? How to trouble shoot it? Thanks

@charlesw.smithiii5695 4 жыл бұрын

Hi RepairClinic, I have a 2004 Kenmore electric dryer. It runs but no heat. I dismantled, checked both thermostats, cleaned out the vents/tube and confirmed good continuity with the heating element. Both legs from the power cord have 120v and, with the tub removed and the dryer running, the heating element is getting 120v on the yellow and black wires. Still, NO heat! How on earth can the heating element pass visual inspection, have perfect continuity, 120v, and still not produce heat? Very confused here, thanks.

@tjdinfl 9 жыл бұрын

My dryer is taking longer than it should. It gets hot, the airflow is good at the dryer and out the vent on top of the roof. The only other thing it could be...i guess... is my wife is overloading it. UNLESS...is it possible that an element isn't getting hot enough? Or, if it's hot, it's hot and if it's not, it's not? In other words, if the air blowing feels hot, does that mean the element is good or can it weaken over time and not be getting hot enough? I watched all your videos and read about my model Whirlpool WED5300SQ0 but didn't see an answer to my question here. Thanks!

@randyraines6695 6 жыл бұрын

My electric dryer repeatedly burns up the thermocouples. Not all at once but there are 4 and 3 have gone, one multiple times. The vent, from the motor to the outlet is is sparkling clean. The dryer is about 20 years old and the problem just started recently

@a.b1266 7 жыл бұрын

So if I test the contract points shown and find 10ohms then the coil itself and find values all over the place.... It's broken.?

@MikeAnnarose 4 жыл бұрын

I've replaced all thermostats and am still getting blown thermal fuses and an overheating cycle. I've had my ducts professionally cleaned as I needed to anyway. Only thing I can think of is a shorted element.

@aldocasillas18 4 жыл бұрын

Hi. Excelent video..congrats ..i have an electric Maytag dryer mod. PYET444AYW and at hi temp is not heating at all. I have 120 v on each heathe elem. Leg ..but at both legs at the same time 0 v. At medium and delicate temp. yes it works at should be.. I already replaced the thermal fuse with the red dot. Replaced the thermostat. I checked my heather element and gave me 11.2 ohms. I confused what else can I do? Thanks..

@TheRepairGuru 4 жыл бұрын

You only have one leg 120 volts to the dryer. Need two legs of 120 to = 240. This will help: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aN6FfqWlsdHFlaM.html

@jefflebowski918 10 жыл бұрын

My electric dryer wouldn't heat but the interior light and motor worked, I took the dryer apart and tested everything, all of the parts passed the continuity test so it baffled me. It turned out to be the circuit breaker, there are two lines(120v + 120v) that run to your 240v dryer and stove. If all else fails check the circuit breaker.

@repairclinic 10 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the tip!

@MultiNutube 11 жыл бұрын

excuse me,, can i ask? what is the size of nickel chromium coil in your dryer? thankzz..

@ImpactedWizDom 9 жыл бұрын

I have a GE electric dryer which the top of becomes very hot to the touch and ultimately blows the high limit thermostat and the dryer will not run. It first happened about a year ago, I replaced it and has been fine until 2 months ago when it blew again. Once replaced, it lasted until today and failed once more, this time around, it only took it an hour for it to fail. I've done research (mostly your helpful tutorials) and have tested the cycling thermostat both at room temp and in skillet, and it checks out ok...then tested the heating element and it checks ok as well and is not grounded to the housing nor does it have any breaks in it. Additionally, there are no restrictions in the ventilation system. Am I missing something? Please help!!!!

@repairclinic 9 жыл бұрын

***** The most common reason for the high limit tripping is a plugged or restricted vent. You can try running the dryer without the vent attached and see if it still gets too hot. If it doesn’t, you'll know the venting is restricted somewhere. The temperature coming out of the vent is typically around 150 to 160 degrees F at the back of the dryer. The other things you can check is the blower wheel to make sure there is not a dryer sheet or lint wad caught in it causing such a loss of air flow. A bad felt seal can also cause the heat to back up. If the felt seal is compromised, air can be drawn around the drum and not through the element. Hope this helps.

@KollinHale28 5 жыл бұрын

Can a heating element be broken even if the circuit is complete when you test it?

@jasonpavelchik4652 8 жыл бұрын

I have a Cabrio wed6200sw1 and it heats on high all the time, even if I set it to Fluff No Heat. It also doesn't seem to cycle the heating element on and off so it gets extremely hot. I have read several articles stating this could be a shorted out heating element, or a bad control board. It seems to me that it should be the control board since no matter what setting I use, it supplies power to the heating element. What should I be checking here? Thanks!

@mjgelhaus 7 жыл бұрын

did you determine the solution?

@jasonpavelchik4652 7 жыл бұрын

Unfortunately no. I have an older dryer I've been using for now.

@LeviKleinschmidt 10 жыл бұрын

We have a electric dryer and it doesn't heat but the fan runs and it tumbles do you think the element is out we also checked the fuses.

@repairclinic 10 жыл бұрын

It could be the element, it could be you are losing power to one side of the element. You can check the element with an ohm meter to see if it is good. Since the element is the only thing that needs 220 volts to work you have a bad breaker or burnt wire that could also cause this problem. You will need to do some testing to see where the problem is.

@jackle842000 Жыл бұрын

@ashrafkarjiker6888 Жыл бұрын

Can you use a continuity tester

@anthonyhernandez4016 9 жыл бұрын

My dryer isn't drying but it stood on all night long never shut off.The know never moved??Do you think it would be the timer and the heating element??

@repairclinic 9 жыл бұрын

Anthony Hernandez There are a few possible causes for this. Enter your dryer's model number in our website's free troubleshooting and repair help system for model-specific information: www.repairclinic.com/repairhelp?TLSID=1773.

@jonathanmoody6951 2 жыл бұрын

Have continuity in the heater, no short, continuity in all fuses and thermostat, and tested timer motor and switches. No heat. Only 120 into heater element, in and out. Diagram makes me think both sides feed in 120each for total of 240. But I think I am reading the diagram wrong and only have 120 in. Everything I test works now. Some things test bad at first but after a few more test they would work, I think because I had fingers on my leads. So frustrated with this. Any ideas anyone?

@zilwegewd 8 ай бұрын

I put my meter on the coil, no continuity. Found the broken coil. Thank you .

@repairclinic 8 ай бұрын

You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!

@tehstrongbad 10 жыл бұрын

I tested my element and it came up as zero exactly...isn't that a bad thing...shouldn't it have some resistance? What is broken on it to make it come up as zero exactly?

@repairclinic 10 жыл бұрын

You should show some resistance. Check the element from both terminals to ground with the element wires disconnected. You should not show any resistance. If you do the element is shorted to the case and will need to be replaced. If you are showing 0 ohms set the meter to the lowest setting probably 200 ohms.

@deenelson1162 7 ай бұрын

Just a heads up to be very careful and use gloves when possible due to sharp parts. Overall this video was very helpful and my Dryer is up and functioning with a newly replaced heating element. Thanks!

@repairclinic 7 ай бұрын

Thanks for the tip.

@nameymcname5686 7 жыл бұрын

Ever seen a Kenmore heating coil that has 120 volts to both legs, the correct resistance, and still won't heat? All the insulators for the coil are intact.

@HoKiller 7 жыл бұрын

Namey McName I m having that same problem with my whirlpool

@juliusmonrow5251 5 жыл бұрын

does the heating element have to be removed to test for continuity ???

@TheMrDamp Жыл бұрын

Not if you can access the terminals he tests

@MsamerieJohnson 6 жыл бұрын

My dryer is doing everything but heating despite replacing both thermostats, cycling thermostat, the thermal fuse, timer and heating element. The dryer cord and outlet is getting 240v as needed. What the hell, why won't it heat?!

@davestacks5056 2 жыл бұрын

Did you ever resolve the issue?…. Im having the same issue