always look forward to seeing more on the CS-590, as someone who owns a stock one. once you sort out how to make it sing, you will have a lot of owners, like myself, who will want you to modify them.

Keep the 590 video coming I've learned alot from these videos

I ported my cs440 per the tin man channel. It's only a 45cc saw. I put the exhaust at 103, intake at 71, and didn't touch the transfers at 127. The ends at 154 exhaust duration, 24 blowdown, and 142 intake duration. The saw runs great. About 11,000 rpm in the cut. Thanks alot Tinman. Maybe this will help.

Love the build. One thing I always try to tell myself, if I fix a problem that I created, it’s still a win. I can’t wait to see you win! Stay warm tinman

For work we always used professional Stihls. I loved them, although starting them was always a temperament issue based on weather conditions. And personally, I don't like the choke on stihls. But for my personal saw, I purchased the Echo cs590 (based on cost) and it's been a great running little beast. I feel that they aren't refined like a Lexus, more like a Toyota Camry from the late 90's. You know, when you could work on them and afford one, and it lasted forever. Hope you get that beast working the way you want.

Hope to see the 590 ripping soon Tinman. Charles Briscoe is doing some great work on these.

So glad to finally get an update on the 590!

Purchased CS590, runs completely like a pig. Throws gas everywhere, seriously Echo? Thank you for CS590 content.

Hi Tinman. Great video and quite informative. I have never ported a saw, but you make me want to try it. Stay safe and warm and keep these great videos coming.

Hey Tinman, you raised the exaust 10 deg to 104 . Squish is perfect, but with 10 deg less compressionstroke, you loose a lot static compression. I think around 25 psi and that will be bad for torque and won’t make it zippy. Base Cut or better a pop up could compensate the less compression issue Maybee that is also part of the issue on that Saw. Kind Regards from Germany Keep doing , you will get it rippin 👍 Bye

My favorite part of your videos Tinman is the fact that you are not KZfaqy. Just honest and straight forward love it!

A Great learning experience for all. An amazing mechanic once told me his biggest advice is to be patient and humble. He told me that when you are stuck, step away and be patient. It's amazing how that works, but it does!

Hello Tinman, I own a stock CS-590 and found your channel on a random search for my saw and now I'm hooked. You are my favorite saw nerd! I don't fully understand 2 stroke design but I love to listen to your porting and customizing theories. It's fascinating what you have learned from porting such a variety of saws. As you describe what you are seeing in the design of the 590 I wonder.....will the echo engineers talk to you? What happens if you pick up the phone and ask them about the things you are proposing?

Thank you for sharing all the tips and techniques. Nice to learn new things every time I check into the channel.

Learned a lot, as usual. Keep em coming Tinman!

Glad to see the 590 back. Great information here. Always love seeing your videos.

Cool, was waiting for you to tear back into this one.

I love your thoughtfulness and understanding.

Thanks for the update 10 man really sounds like you're on the right track looking forward to the outcome keep the videos coming love the content

Thanks for the update and explanation Tinman. Take care.

Great teacher! New piece of the Puzzle.

Nice to see the 590 back be nice to see what it does.

Glad to see this back on the channel tinman

Great explanation. Hopefully you are right and make that saw a lil beast!

LOVE YOUR EXPLAINATION ,,HOPE YOUR PLAN WORKS TAKE ER EASY TINMAN ,,

Great info as always.👍

The transfers in 590 echo is like a 305 with a quadrajet. No wonder she’s boggy 😆

I for one, enjoy the weather updates👍 always been a little bit of a weather nerd. Good to see the CS-590 getting some more attention! Would be awesome if it woke right up with a little transfer port reshaping. Wouldn't be surprised if it does!

Been watchin since the XL76 build, first comment... One of your best vids on theory. 👍🏻 More drawings and think-through explanations please. Great, great vid!

Thanks for this video I am thinking about doing this to my saw

This video was so mich information… it eas very very good video. Inlove your videos!

CS590 !! Your plan sounds great! Grab a grinder and go. Love those Echos.

I've been running my new echo 590 for two months now and it was a good saw from day one but it hasn't done anything but get better and better all the time , I'm thinking about selling my Husqvarna 61 and buy another 590 !

Thanks Tinman. We are allways learning time to try something else. That's half the fun doing a build see how it runs.

You are a saw fanatic Echoes kicked hard. Love it go till you're happy. I'll watch

To confirm your suspicion a smaller carb should limit the charge in the crankcase and not exceed the limit of the transfer. It would be interesting to see if a small carb or restrictor plate would clean it up in the cut.

Logic makes sense, draining the bottom end sooner should reduce pressure build up. Can wait to see it all come together. Excellent stuff once again. TC Tinman Mahalo 🤙🤙🤙... Tdawg.

Hey Tinman sounds like your doing a lot of high end fiddling, all very interesting and starting to make more sense to me each time I watch a vid.

Hey tinman here in Nova Scotia we are going from a plus two Celsius to a high tomorrow of minus thirteen Celsius with a windchill of minus twenty six Celsius. Gotta love them nor’easters. Your channel is very ensightful.

I bought a new cs 620 pw , so the timing of this video is perfect!

Great explanation..

Nice to have a fire , I freeze every time I watch your videos. lol

Nice vid TIN MAN Thanks!!!

You need to do a CS620p

that added or made me realise alot better the workings of a two stroke nice

So damn fascinating watching this, thanks for posting these Tinman!! The echo transfers are insane, I'm happy working on 660 transfers but wouldn't dare touch my 590's uppers!! Have you studied the 7310's uppers yet, where the secondary is so wide they had to bridge the port? Crazy awesome!! My understanding is that the 2 transfer channels are achieving different things, IE the primary is "helping finish exhaust-expulsion" while the secondary is "refilling the chamber for the next stroke", so far as I understand it after reading Jennings "2 stroke handbook"! Still fascinated and honestly I suspect a LOT of the final transfer design of a saw like these echo's is done in more of a 'trial&error on the flow-bench" approach, than in a mathematically-derived approach (would love your theories/thoughts on this!) Re Velocity...dogging-out the lowers will certainly achieve higher velocity of charge-dispersement so that may not be helping you (though mine are dogged at least as much as yours..though I didn't even look at the uppers(you'd said not to, in the videos ;D )) In Jennings' book he makes a point to keep bringing up velocity but it seems like it's pretty strictly / normally a thing relating to loop-scavenging, though of course the extremes of anything here will result in "short circuiting"/carb spitback/excessive loss of charge through muffler. "Widening the intake will reduce [potential]velocity of the intake-tract, therefore reducing case-pressure" I'm not positive this is right, I defer to you of course but I think that's inaccurate, here's why: While velocity can indeed be changed by port-shaping, widening wouldn't "reduce crankcase-fill" because *that* is a *direct* correlate of the unswept(swept?)volume of the jug that MUST be moved for the piston to move & comply w/ physics.....put in your analogy, "The syringe will still dispense 30CC if you depress the plunger that much, regardless of width of the syringe or the girth of its needle", because depressing 30cc from it FORCES this. MY understanding was that this is how the 2-stroke jug functions insofar as "flow volumes", and that BOTH velocity & turbulence are very VERY much secondary-considerations, not unimportant by any means but not remotely as-important as displacement//rpm, but far more important for the "loop scavenging effect" that drives our lil 2-strokes, in fact if I'm reading Jennings' book correctly then your idea of "widen the intake port in this instance" would actually HURT you, because as you get to higher RPM the total-throughput of your wider/larger intake port will be of GREATER significance than any velocity attributes could ever effect (if that's even what the intake-velocity reduction achieved, as I understand it a velocity reduction would be for efficiency of loop-scavenging IE less intake going-out the exhaust port, since a given volume IS gonna come out of that intake *based-upon* piston-displacement during the stroke, and our battle always seems to be "keeping it in the jug" especially if the muffler isn't on-point which sadly I'd say applies to MOST powersaw-tuners' mufflers :/ Had actually discussed this case when I had the good fortune to speak with Kensie and I was surprised he didn't agree (didn't disagree either, I don't think, but certainly didn't come across like he thought it had much validity) that this is a problem of muffler.....you still have a big hole in your rear-portion of the muffler, automatically making your saw mix atmosphere with charge in that rear portion, I'm sooo confident that if you modded the muff you'd have immediate results -- simply patch that hole on the top (I literally just patched over that entire area, sealing both my initial hole which was like yours + the OEM exit hole), then ~double the throughput of the holes in that central baffle, then place the new&only exit ports on the front of the muffler somewhere (I did about 65% exhaust flange for surface-area of exit port, split between (2) exit-ports that are ~1" apart so it has that nice dual-port 'pop pop' noise. YOU could test this out **w/o penalty** because you could un-do the plate on the top, and - on mine - I put my 2 front exits on that horizontal bar where the muffler-mount bolts go, so I could always use that fancy OEM plate to cover-up the holes if they didn't work well...but they did so I didn't touch anything, in fact I know my exit holes were "on the tight side" and my thinking was I'd enlarge-as-necessary but it's been so great I have no desire to touch anything, even my ugly 25.5thou squish I do not wish to machine-away because I don't want to change the timing and, w/ transfers in-mind, I've recently gotten the idea that, *usually* a gasket-delete's biggest impact (proportionately speaking) is *reduction* of that tiny transfers-open window, for instance on ms660 the crown BARELY hits the bottom of the upper-transfer, NOT fully though, so any gasket deletion is reducing transfer duration and IMO if you don't have a right angle grinder you've no business doing much of anything w/ the uppers of most saws! Thanks for posting all these vids man, have learned so much and am now doing a double-saw build it's awesome, and I'd NEVER have thought I'd be "working on engines" not even ~8 months ago, but I'd just gotten my cs590 and, seeing your vids, it seemed so easy to port it (you were *almost* done w/ your series, had *not* hit the problem yet though), anyway thanks because I'd never have attempted any of this (or my subsequent "two 660 clones" build, that I'm redoing/improving right now), wish you luck w/ this cs590 man, have felt so guilty because mine came out awesome simply because I'd asked for help online while copying your vids, so I deviated a bit from your approach, adding info from online & from instinct, but it came out well on porting #1, and *awesome* on porting #2 in fact I'm still running it pig-rich for longevity because there's simply zero need to add more power it can bury it's 20", even dull, into hard dead Oak and just keeps pulling-into the wood >;D

My echo Cs-400 was 114 on the exhaust opening and my intake duration was 135. It ended up at about 110 and 140 on intake duration. The interesting thing was that the exhaust port was offset to one side and very narrow. Also the transfers were stuffed under the bearings. So I didn’t really open them up just made them accessible so to speak. I widen the exhaust and polished. I added two “ notches” like what iron horse likes on the intake and roughed it up a bit. Seems to run pretty good.

The reason that echo has the secondary transfer as big as they do. Because of emissions notice how it is aimed at the exhaust. They want as much spent exhaust out as much as possible for emission standards. I would raise both transfers equally try 5 degrees first but try to aim the primary toward the intake.

Sounds like a good plan Tinman. In the other videos for this saw it seemed tied up and not running free. I think you have it. Good luck with it. We will be watching. Thanks

I really want to see this saw back together and ripping.

Over a month of-20 C for coastal B.C. That’s like 40 below 78% humidity and wind . Now it’s raining all the metal roofs have slid off Great advice as always thanx

Howdy Tinman! It’s been good weather here in northern Arizona. Some snow and ice, but 70F and sunny right now. Just picked up a cs590 Timberwolf based on your videos. Only planning to mod the deflector and adjust the carb for my homestead and farm saw needs.

What you said at the end is totally how I am too

The return of the cs590 saweeeet

I think your right on this for sure...I think echo cut the transfers wrong probably by mistake...and let it ride.....I have one of these saws as well

Well explained.

Could be trying to put some welding on the intake to make it 150-ish a good operation?

Hay Tinman have you ever thought in changing the jets in the carb

Yay back to the cs-590 very excited this build ! Stay warm tin man!

Before you make cuts you can not undo how about trying taking away some intake timing with the jb/ liquid metal ?

Thank s!!

I have two 590's for farm firewood think I might do the ignition,carb and muffler mod and call them good

do you have any suggestion on how to spicy up an old Stihl 023?

Tinman please read this. Long duration inlet timing is your problem, IMHO you don't have enough crankcase pressure. You know you only start building cylinder pressure once the exhaust port is closed ..... well you only start building crankcase pressure once the inlet port is closed. With a long inlet duration there are not many degrees to pressurise the crankcase charge before the transfer opens. Opening the transfer earlier as you propose will lower crankcase pressure further - that is going in the wrong direction. The fueling is too rich because the intake charge is coming out of the cylinder (and into the inlet) before the the piston closes the inlet port, intake charge travels back through the carb and picks up another dose of fuel and spits it into the airbox..... The already fuelled air is then sucked back in (again) getting yet more fuel. No wonder it is too rich. Closing the inket earlier fixes this too. JB weld that inlet port.....

Is it a pre-ignition detonation issue? Maybe try the base gasket again.

Both the Walbro 590 and 620 carbs have the h-jet that are governed and you can’t tune.

Did .006" of piston travel equal 1 degree on this saw? Perhaps you mentioned it in a previous video video and I missed it.

I’d be tempted to remove all that material between the upper transfer’s… and widen my main a little… you need to keep the support material to stabilize the piston or I’d remove all that too! I’m completely at a loss unless I can actually see the relationships on a port map… I can’t visualize it mentally…😂😂😂😂. 45mm by 37.6mm!!! That’s a massive amount of stroke! That’s a lot of travel… ( A 1.6mm thick shim plate and a 50mm Stihl 044 topend … is that a 10mm or 12mm piston pin??? would definitely squeeze in there!!! Popping it up to the 70cc size…a little homemade popup would bump it even more… could make him a very special saw… I love the video that Joe Harkness or Dyno Joe put together… he did 4 or 5 different versions of this build… even tried to sleeve out around 56mm or something crazy like that but it wasn’t thick enough and it ate itself…. I’ve got to break down and get the little harbor lathe so I can make my own popup piston at home… I would definitely need to see those relationships on a paper page or a port mapping chart… I had a copy of the one that Kensie use’s but I lost the email… I have to try to have him send it to me again… his is better than mine…even though it’s just a chart with 360 degree’s on it… it’s an extremely interesting hobby for certain!!! 😂👍🤣🤣🤣

Swap the main nozzle out in the carb if you have not already. It has a bypass and you need a nozzle without one.

Im still whaiting for the homelite xl 922

HEY tinman I don't know about you I,M ready for spring time buddy 😉😄 tired 😴 of the cold weather got plenty of chainsaw work to do OMG 2 2 2022

Too big carb won't help that case loading issue either -- me thinks

Do you have any recommendations for a quality aftermarket cylinder/piston for a Stihl 193t?

Is the cylinder on a 590 the same as a 620p, I know the piston on a 620 has two rings compared to a single ring on a 590

Hey Tim man got a general question for you I have all steel chainsaws I want to buy some of that fuel line that you talk about Thai gone course that didn’t spell it correctly but you know what it is I need to know what sizes I should get for steel chainsaws and weedeaters and blowers I found a supplier It’s called H and L supply could you please let me know the sizes I need

Tinman. I'd love for you to do a 50cc saw

Have you thought about porting a 041 sthil

Tinman, what about lessening the overall intake timing and running a smaller carb, but not making any other changes? From your explanation, it seems as though keeping longer blowdown would increase dynamic compression, thereby increasing performance.

You guys our awesome.. I'm still so happy with the 590 rgt out of the box no adjustment. But I've only used my cs 310. I actually never thought I would need 2 saws. Now I want more lol.. run a lot of echo yard stuff always works when I call for it.. did you do a video on tuning a 590? after my 3rd tank I think I will do that and the little muffler mod.. I'm in the rabbit hole for saws lmao @ me

Could you do some finger ports to help it?

I've bein holding off on porting mine because of all the horror stories of bad running, overly right builds. Can't wait to see what happens

nice

maybe echo did the transfer ports like that with a restricted muffler to get the saws through EPA regulations?

It’s interesting that it ran ok initially. Why do you think that happened Tinman?

Seems like they’re trying to keep the fresh air and fuel close to the intake port with that transfer design.

anybody know the difference between the cs-590 and cs-600?

Why is there two holes on head or top sqish of cylinder on echo decomp ?

Cold to me is 40s, and it's been COOOOLD HERE TOO, 40F that is lol

Have you talked with Charles Brisco on KZfaq? He's even having great success on these echo saws

Holler at dynojoe he has these echos figured out

Hey Tinman love the vids I just rebuilt a echo cs_4600 and rebuilt the carb but now I can’t get it to pop or anything and idea on what it could’ve be brand new ngk spark plug

Ive got a CS590... All stock other than the muffler mod, I did the muffler mod the same way as you but a little less agressive with the grinder.. I did not make the hole as large as you... Stock carb and ignition.... Now I cannot get the saw to stop 4 stroking on top end... Even in the cut... High speed jet is as lean as it goes, yes I removed the little red limiters from the carb screws. The only way I can get it to stop 4 stroking in the cut is to force the saw through the cut, chain is brand new. Is this the limiter or is it too rich? Thanks!

Or maybe put a carb on it that you think is just way to small and see what happens . Or use the same carb you have but put a restricter plate between the carb and the jug

Hay tinman how much cc do you Gan when you port a saw

I am going to pull apart my Dolmar 7910. It will start and run for about 1 minute and quits and will not restart. Thought I might check the timing of the saw and open it up a little. Nothing crazy.....

Buddy if you grind through ur transfer shipper to NC USA and ull get it back free and like servepro baby, like it never even happen

what do you think the best new cyllinder and piston kit is to put on an old 372 if i dont port them? im trying to decide between oem 50mm, or something like a Hiway titanikel 52mm bigbore with caber rings and popup piston. I know oem is usually the obvious answer, but I have read that new oem castings are getting worse over time and hiway and new NWP are getting better. I want best performance and reliability on a work saw with a long bar mostly in softwood. also concidering staying 50mm and geting a dominant saw piston, but they are out of stock and im not sure if they plan to make more

I've seen never seen single digits here eastern nc in 30years

Everything is designed at a price point!!!! A $400 Echo is priced to be an entry level Farm saw......Not to run at Redline, in 100 Deg heat for 15 hours a day.....but for that price, it's Reliable, and made in Japan. Also consider parts and maintenance.....ALL chainsaws break parts and need service, period......you need to find a Dealer, Not rely on the internet. If you're in the middle of a job and blow a fuel line or break a Trigger piece, a dealer will have it Now.......so consider which dealers you have nearby before buying a Brand!

Ci Sawrus cutting wood 🪵 😋 👌