Timing belts don't squeal- squeal is from the belt slipping on the pulley. Timing belts have teeth which prevent this. A periodic groaning noise can indicate timing belt problems, but squeal at startup or under hard acceleration indicates an accessory belt that is either under improper tension or is on it's last legs. Unfortunately, timing belts can fail without any warning, which is why you change them preemptively. I recommend doing the whole kit including the pulleys, which I didn't do here. The belt I put on in this video series only lasted me 18k miles before it started rubbing up against the timing cover because it warped- an idler pulley went bad!

Should have kept the town car, just did the waterpump on my 95 300zx only took 9 hours.

I'm glad it helped you!

faethie zutell 900 bucks? thats quite the steal. what was it? a 60k style service or a 120k style service?

faethie zutell $900? they wanted to charge me (with a water pump replacement) $2000

You may have to remove additional intake piping to get to the front of the engine, but otherwise it should be the same.

Battery cover lid? You mean the cowl panel?

yeah man, its so rare to come by a z32 with it on aha idk what previous owners do with it. beats me

Idk what drugs you are on, but sober up before working on your car buddy :)

I actually did that after making this video

I cheated and cut the belt, then I damaged swapped it at my work xD

I do explain in more detail in the subsequent videos. You have to watch part 2 (or 3 I can't remember). But yeah, I have no idea what Nissan was thinking with that tensioner system. it has like 1 inch of pulley movement maximum, and it's very difficult to figure out.

I used a hammer and a piece of wood to push it down little by little.

You don't want to see a 2001 Audi S4 timing belt job then...

***** Ahhh... That makes sense... As long as you monitor those seals for leaks. It is my understanding that the standard 120k kits everyone sells includes the seals and all other parts that - if any of them fail, endangers the belt. If a pulley or stud fails, the belt fails. If a seal fails, oil can get onto the belt. If the water pump fails, it could endanger the belt. etc, etc. I want piece of mind. I just bought my timing belt kit from Z1 for their black friday special ($100 off!) and was hoping to watch your video to see how you did the seals hehehe. I will be reviewing your video for getting everything apart and everything back together, but I'll have to find another guide for the seals. Oh, and I'll be replacing the o-rings in all my A/C piping tubing also, since I have a leak somewhere. I've been without A/C for over a year, and it seems logical to fix that while I have the front apart (I'm going to pull the bumper off and airbox out while I work on it.) I might even sneak a pop-charger into the budget while the wife isn't looking ;) I'll be starting my timing belt job next week. Wish me Luck!

***** to be honest, i rarely ever disconnect the battery when doing mechanical work like this ... i dunno why it's recommended at all, to be honest. but, if the nut does NOT crack then you have to give your battery a full charge or replace the battery or you have a weak starter motor ... but if the battery is charged and healthy and the starter is healthy then the nut will crack even if it's rusted on

Nice tip! Thanks

Well I had previously used a breaker bar with a pole to loosen a crank pulley bolt on a Prelude, and the end of the bolt sheared off inside the crank. So getting it out clean with minimal effort was a thing to celebrate

Thanks. I understood that. I didn't know why it looked like it did.