^^^This

Thanks! Should hold up for a while

I was originally going to go with 100% silicone, but manufacturers instructions specifically said not to. I found that strange as well.

@@findoutDIY any acrylic látex caulking usually has some silicone in it, it will be fine

That's what the manufacturer said to do (Delta). I think a mortar bed might be a better way to go. This is currently in a rental property and so far no issues.

Did you place the bottom edge of your GoBoard on top of the pans thin edge, or did you bring it down into that lip? Thanks.

@@scottswannie2500 I fur stripped my studs out and came down to the pan inside the lip. I then shleuter taped the bottom and siliconed it and put mortar there to seal it in.

@@scottswannie2500 I had the cement board come down over the lip, but allowed roughly a 1/8” to 1/4” gap from the top of the pan to where the cement board hung, to ensure space for a silicon caulk to seal the gap between tile and pan later. Also, there were a few places, one wall more than others, where I used drywall shims (stud shims?), basically long strips, to even our the studs or bring them out 1/16 to 1/8 inch. This ensured the cement board was not bowed out at the bottom from the lip, or at least not bowed out enough that it would affect the tiling process later. I used cement board instead of a lightweight alternative like GoBoard due to availability/cost, but have used Schlüter Kerdi Board before, which is an amazing alternative if you can justify the cost.

@@findoutDIY Thanks for the info. I’m still a bit confused as I’ve never tiled before. If you shimmed out the studs a bit, didn’t the wall board stick out from the original drywall near the top of the shower walls? I’m putting goboard in only 3/4 of the way up to the ceiling. So to clarify, you put your board just over the top edge/lip of the pan which would leave a good 1/4 gap in between the bottom of the board to the edge of the pan and that’s where the tile thin set and tape will be filled in to make it flush for tiling and to hide the screws that show around the pan?

I had to do a pressure test for this bathroom for the city inspector. In the 3" line that tied into the main 4" cast iron sewer line, I installed a 3" clean out. Through that clean out, I use an inflatable test plug, also called ball or bag (inflated with a bike pump) to block the flow. Then, at each drain on the new line (sink, wash. machine, shower, toilet) I had to plug. The toilet flange comes pre-plugged with a knock out. Sink, shower, and wash machine I used mechanical test plugs. With these plugged, put hose in the vent in out of the roof to fill to roof line. Inspector showed up and sees there are no leaks in drains/vents and you get a pass.

Both points were addressed in the manufacturer instructions (Delta) and this video demonstrates what the manufacturer said to do.

Typical uninformed idiot on the internet. If there is any problem, you tear out your whole shower. You do not want the shower base to be able to move around as it may cause damage.Shower base is cheap by comparison. Plumbers putty will cause the plastic in the shower base to crack causing the shower pan to fail.