I've found that if you can't find coils for the exact model, then just scan through coils for other makes and models, I usually end up finding one for something else that is the same.

I have a 1988 McCulloch Eager Beaver 20" saw I bought new. It's a great saw and I keep it running. It had a crack in the intake manifold plenum casting I fixed a couple of years ago and it runs like new! I empty out all the gas when storing and wipe it down thoroughly. When I need to use it, I put in freshly mixed gas/oil at 32:1 ratio. This is the ratio I use for ALL my 2-stroke outdoor equipment including my Toro snowblower and Echo weed trimmer. The saw runs great on this ratio and I keep the chain oil reservoir filled as well. I put on a new Oregon chain and it just buzzes through logs. This is a good old American made saw and I would never throw one like this out! I'm a retired OEM Automotive Engineer (BSME, MSME) with 40+ years of experience.

Thanks again for a quality informational tutorial!! A lot of detail, so I will review and take notes. Adjusting the carb is crucial and knowing what letter stands for what. Thanks for pointing that out. I would also keep the old one until it is no longer functional or safe, then invest in another chainsaw of similar or equal value and reputation.

Thanks mate. Couldn't figure out the fuel routing, flow, connections. Very good description. ty.

I love your channel, i have been a small eng mechanic for 30 yrs, i work on this type of saw all the time and the parts are still available, one important thing you failed to check on the saw was the bar lubricating oil that should be checked every time you start and run the saw, keep up the great videos

Thanks for the vids on this unit. I have a model with the same internals. FR(Fac Refurb) 2.0 sibling abused it, never cleaned, left old gas. Got kitts for fuel filter, carb, fuel lines. So will be cleaning and rebuilding carb. Thanks again

Great video...invaluable in resurrecting a $15 3200 from a garage sale. All the hoses were disintegrated. $9 Amazon investment for hosing and several hours of reviewing video and hands-on...runs like new. Thanks much!

I really enjoy all your videos. I have learn so much from you. Awesome repair as always. 👍🙏👍🙏👍🙏

Good video delivering some worthwhile tutorial details as usual. Your question for viewers actually has several layers and my answer to all of them is No. My exact money limit I would spend for repairs is inconclusive but may be resolved if I locate a needed coil for my 40 year old 2.0 Mac.

My neighbor down the street is hiring me to repair this exact type of chainsaw. It had gas in it for almost ten years!! It had brittle lines, a broken primer bulb. Since these were made in the late 90’s, there aren’t new carburetors easy to find for these that will fit this model. I told him he’d be better off buying a new chainsaw. Yours had a good carburetor that just needed adjusted and cleaned. The one I am repairing will probably need new carburetor. New carburetors for this off of eBay are old stock, and they were on sale for $100!! It’s not worth spending $100 on a chainsaw that is 25 years old. He can get a new chainsaw for not much more.

Good job there , I have never worked on a gas chain saw, I have to admit I use a electric chain saw which fits my needs as I rarely use it. But when I do I really need it.

I would just hold on to it until another one pops up. Great video. Thank you.

I’m liking the frequent Uploads 👍

My cousins dad owns a MAC 3516 gas chainsaw it looks like this and has a 12 inch bar• Thank you for the good work•

I want to thank you for all your advice, I ended up getting my rebuild of my poulan pro leaf blower complete. Turns out the flywheel sheered due to the fan Nut not being tightened enough, when it loosened it sheered the key. with a new flywheel I put locktite on the bolt and torqued to 15 ft pounds started on the second pull with minor carb adjustments.

Great job on rebuilding carb on these old Mcculloch saw. If you havent found the chain tensioner screw its on the left side of the bar, its not the in the best of location and tensioner screw cam easo;u gp bad. Also carb tend to easily flood on the Mcculloch saw (3500/3516/Mac/3816 etc). Unfortunately, original OEM or after market carb are extremely hard to find so if any carb issue, just have to rebuild the carb. I have a soft spot for these Mcculloch saw as it was my first chainsaw that got me into small engine repair but I wouldnt spend too much money on these.

Funny. I just picked up one of these for 20 bucks. The guy said it was dead and only good for spares. Boy, was he wrong. A bit of TLC and it runs like a charm.

I have a pile of these little saws I get bored every once in a while and refurbish it. I pressure test my carbs but even more important than that is to check the lever height in the process. I usually just stick a piece of fuel line on it and put it together then push the diaphragm thru the little hole in the cover to make sure it only comes out when it's supposed to. Sure does save a lot of time if you check it while it's off the first time lol. Also I just wanted to point out that the malleability of the pump is just as important if not more important than the little flaps. Especially those acetate diaphragms like u had. Just seemed like a key detail of what to look for was left out. 99% of the time when the pump fails it's cuz it's not pumping not cuz the flap won't close/open. But nice video

Cool Chain Saw

I have that same chainsaw! It has a beautiful cylinder. It has been ran much. It's been sitting about 4 years maybe longer. It had rotten gas in it when I got it. I haven't really messed with it yet.

Thanx for the vid mate. Yeah I would use it till it fails and you may come acroos parts in your travels or the saw may go for another 20 years with in house regular serviceing. Cheers

I pulled the sprocket on my 31-16, cleaned the sprocket and lubed the sprocket bearing. It is a nice little saw.

Well it's a cool saw to add to your lineup. When you're out cutting wood with other guys. You can pull out your old McCullough chainsaw. Start it up run it take a fuel through it.

I have a cased 32-16, so it is about the same saw. I can tell from the carb it takes a K-10-WAT rebuild kit. A new screen comes in the rebuild kit. I put a little grease on the lifter pin and on the end of the lifter spring to keep them in place when I put the lifter lever back on the carb. This grease will wash out after the saw runs for a while. FYI, there is a new lifter spring in Zama rebuild kits if you loose it during assembly. Walbro rebuild kits do not include a new spring. I pressure test all carbs after re-assembly to 7#. I run Red Armor 50:1 in my little MAC, in fact I run the same mix in all my two cycle equipment.

Great video!

Currntly $15 into rebuilding my dads old 3200. Think I need a carb kit after replacing lines and no luck. Thanks for the help

I picked up one of these at a g sale. The bar was removed and not properly remounted(the tensioner was not in place) an easy fix. It does run but cold blooded. What size gas lines are required?

I have similar saw, I love the compact design, if I was in your shoes I would try to keep it as long as possible since it seems well built, and I think new ones wont be as sturdy. I believe mine is a 3010 or 3012, the fuel lines were cracked and brittle and I replaced them as per one of your videos, I removed the carburetor, cleaned it with air and carburetor cleaner, and reinstalled it, removed the spark plug which was dirty cleaned it with cleaner and reinstalled it, the saw started after that and run for about 30 secs and then shut off, and it wont start again. I didn't do the compression test, I have an older kit that I can use, can you tell me what hose size I need for the test and where I should plug the hose/gauge for this test? and how to access the engine so I can see the pistons like you showed in the video? Anything I should try next to get it up and running? Thank you.

I have 2 of these saws in my shop and all the parts are still available, so i fixed them both and use them on a regular basis

So I came across this video last year, I told you it starts but if I let up off the throttle it dies then has trouble starting again. Basically after warming up it won't idle you just have to hold the trigger down and do all your cuts (this was after replacing the lines, filters, plug). You said it might be the diaphram so I finally ordered one...except...I tried pouring fuel at the top like you did and couldn't get it to start. While going through the starting procedure it should at least sound like it wants to start but that didn't happen this time. Can't imagine what went wrong in just one year. I thought the whole thing might be ethanol fuel so I got the pre-mixed non-ethanol kind (40:1). I took apart the carb and everything is super clean, I cleaned it more with brake-leen and tested the fuel going down the screen...no issues there. I sprayed through the line inlet and outlet and all seems good. The diaphrams don't seem like there is anything wrong with them though mine didn't bounce as much as your at 2:20. The red trigger just has a copper contact and it's not corroded. No one has touched the thing, it should at least start and die.

Great video! Could you tell me what carb or carb kit you ordered?? I have the same saw and replaced all the fuel and oil lines as well. It ran pretty well after I got it back together, but I noticed I had pinched the main fuel line when I screwed the case back together. I fixed that so it wasn’t pinched and I wouldn’t run after that. So I re pinched the line with wire and it ran again.

I've got a saw just like that one, the tensioner screw is tucked away real tight at the front of the saw, to the left side of the bar if you're looking at it from the rear

Beautiful.

I think that fuel screen is likely my issue too! Thanks!

To answer your question "would tou spend $100 to fix this saw. The practical answer is no. This is a do it yourself fixer where your time involved is a fun and satisfying hobby.

I had a the exact same model good saw for its time bought brand new in 1996. As the years went on it would run fever pitch but wouldn't hardly want to start again. A guy I know who works on them told me they were obsolete I ended up getting a STHL MS170

Personally, I'd save the $$ for a new saw. That being said, my 40+ year old Homelite and Craftsman saws are still going strong.

In relation to your question at the end. Depends on expected usage. I only use my chainsaw very occasionally so if I get it working well it will probably stay that way for a few years if I drain it down as I finish each time. A new saw would cost x2 and be wasted.

refreshed a 3200 and a 3216, gotta say, i really like the 3216 much better, so much easier to work on. the 3200 gas tank is bolted to the block behind the flywheel so thats gotta come out if you wanna replace the oil line that runs from the pump, behind the gas tank and to the oil feeder for the chain. Its definitely not the easiest saw to work on, but if you know what youre doing you can get it running pretty damn easy. Also the rough carb adjustments for first time startup are around 3 half turns out for the low + around another 1/4 turn and the high is 3 half turns out + 1/8 of a turn, you can fine tune it from there.

I've got a dead Mcculloch. Carb is the Zama W26. Is there a better carb that will fit the saw?

you're a cool dude

The tensioner screw is between the bar and the fuel tank. I have the exact saw. They tensioner screw wears out and doesn't hold the bar tension.

Always something that has to get fixed.

I have this same model in about the same condition. I've replaced fuel lines, primer bulb and am working on the carb. I'm finding that parts are a bit hard to find. Also it seems most smaller chainsaws today are battery electric which I don't think would be practical for me.

I checked out the oil pump issue with this model. I found out that the worm drive gear on the crankshaft was slipping and thereby not driving the gear of the pump well. Fixed it by making use of loctite 638 to fix the gear on the crankshaft.

Will this be one for the collection? These saws are hard to come by

Many of the parts are the same on the small saws carbs to. I have a Mac like yours neighbor gave me has been sitting 20 years. Fired up on carb cleaner. Needs a fuel bulb n probably new lines I haven’t messed with it yet

Good video!! Question: I have a Homelite 240..How much oil should it put out on the bar?? Its not leaking and do see that the bar gets slightly oily- after running a min or two I'll get a few drips off the bar..just curious..Can you use Tygon lines off the oil pump? The factory ones are black in color I believe rubber..Thanks

I know that’s not really one of the actual vintage Mac saws that are pre 1990’s but they’ve always had an issue with recoil mechanisms breaking when they shut down so as a way to prevent damage to the recoil pull the starter rope out a couple inches then hit the kill switch and then all the slap of the engine shutting off will be absorbed by your hand. I’m so used to doing that, that it’s a natural instinct whenever I shut off an engine with a pull rope.

I have a Stihl HL 100 K and i cleaned the carburetor but it doesn’t run normal it only runs on half choke, what do you think could be the problem? Hope you can give me some advice thanks

It may not have much in way of major parts if they break but I think these older saws were better built. My McCulloh factory reconditioned 32cc (FR2.0) has served me well for over 20 years with only gas line replacements and one carb rebuild a few years ago. So Yes, I would spend $100 to get mine repaired.

Where can I find carb rebuild kit for this same exact saw/carb..?

Hey bro cool video. I personally would have bought a new chainsaw since it would of been too expensive to service an old saw with little parts available to repair it. If it's a tool I need for cutting fire wood for example I would invest in a new chainsaw.

You need to obtain a can of Amsoil AM Spray. It will clear up the rust and lubricate the areas seen around the adjustment screws. I would love to send you a can if you like. And going back again about 2 cycle oil. Amsoil Saber eliminates the guess work for fuel mixture.

No, new saw if something goes wrong in the future , was repairable for now, but has wear issues but will do the home use easy enough.

How does the older work on the chainsaw McCall

Dear Sir,can you tell me ,how put ratio oil and fuel for chainsaw Mcculloch Pro Mac 10-10. Thank You.

💯

Since I do all of the Work myself I can try & scrounge around for parts but if a lawnmower & chainsaw repair shop does the repair I'm sure that they would give the customer a written quote before going ahead with the repairs & they will let them know if the parts are no longer available !

Depends, if it was a nice older saw I would consider it. However I do it myself it doesn’t cost me anything lol

7:40 I'm done with mixing, I get the pre-mixed ethanol free stuff

I’m getting one of those saws

I have the same saw one got from the dump and it has a broken drive gear

Is the Mac up for sale?

Can i put a fule filter for my mower

Mac always take forever I have a super old one I want to repair but finding stuff for them is impossible. Btw I'm in the town that Robert founded he made lake havasu and chainsaws

I would buy a new one if it would cost $100 to repair. I picked up one just like this from the curb several years ago. It ran great for a while and then after cleaning the curb I could not get it going again. I am now prepared to go at it again and I will get it running along with the many other saws and weedeaters that I picked up from the curb. Thanks for your sage advice.

Wouldn't running a magnet across the floor to find the part you're missing a lot easier than ordering and paying for a new carb?

I love watching you vidoes I have learned a lot but when you clean carbs you don't take the jets out I was always told you should but I don't really clean carbs a lot.

Why would fuel pass through the screen without the needle, but when I put the needle back in the fuel doesn't pass through the screen?

this model has quit some aftermarket parts(partner, einhell..). Quite some copies were made of this one. I thought that the chain tension adjuster screw is at the front next to the bar(not ideal to adjust). Why don't you clean the screen by spraying carb cleaner backwards from the needle seat hole? This way you directly blow all crap out the way it came in. You did this reverse blowout method with reused fuel filter in an other video.

I find the older machines built with better quality than today , the cheap ones today are made in China . The metal is not of the same quality .

Use it up get all you can out of that saw ...

You need parts for this saw? Let me know. I have plenty in stock.

will not unless it's really vintage like those metal cover ones or a really powerful one. Not really sure

There are parts but they're just hard to find unless you know where to look.

👍🏾

Any plastic parts of any models that are discontinued or orphaned would seem to be ripe for the 3-D printer crowd to make

well for me i would rather do a repair on a older Chainsaw and using matching parts that will work on it mainly custom ones to a Chainsaw very similar too as it might be a ideal replica replacement etc.

🤔 my old mac , I use for stump removal only. Looks like it's been in ww1 and 2 compeared to that one ☝️ Funny thing its 💯 reliable even if it hits dirt 90 % of the time .

There’s a screw on the other side of the bar to adjust the bar!

I can still buy all the parts for this saw still online have been

Your saw has a chain tensioner

If I could fix it for a small amount of money, I would fix it. For me, a chainsaw might get used 2 or 3 times in a season so a cheap fix would be in order. If one was given to me, I would spend as little as possible. Otherwise I would be better off to rent one from Home Depot.

I say use it till it wears out....Then chuck it...No need throwing good money after bad....😳😳😳!!!

How to fix 2.0 c.l.d

"But it would be a hard decision to invest that much money into a repair on something that doesn't have much of a future." I'm gonna go cry in one of my three Isuzus now...

After watching a few hundred of your videos , I’ve come to the conclusion that your “bench” has to be the most flammable piece of wood in the country 😂

I would buy a brand new one after this one is no longer running.

It does annoy me when the manufactures force you to buy new equptiment by not supplying spares for perfectly useable older equiptment with plenty of life left in it . However if it was my saw and it cost $100 to repair and you can pick up a newer model for not much more, well you can see why stuff is put out on the curb .

Rebuild carburetor fuw times no better

That’s not the original carb

No I wouldn’t put 100 bucks in a piece of equipment that you cain’t find parts for anymore unless it was a desirable piece!

I have effectively the identical chain saw, and it's also in need of some TLC. Your 2 part video is exactly what I had been trying to find, now I feel like I can get my old chainsaw back up and running in no time. The serial # of the one you fixed (98A119-000246) would tell me it was made the same year (and probably a few months ahead) of mine (98A223-000692). I'll let you know how this turns out! Thanks!