You may have figured out most of this by now, but if not, here's a quick run-through. The valve that troubled you towards the end is the check valve, which allows air one way into your tank from the compressor (and if working properly, not out). The little tube coming off the side is an unloader valve which runs between the top of the cylinder and the pressure switch; it allows air in the top of the cylinder an exit path to make it more easily restart between cycles (if you're tripping breakers and everything else works, that's the first place to look). Check valves are notorious for getting dirty and sticking open, which leads a lot of people to believe the pressure switch is leaking and needlessly replace it, although they do need replacing on occasion as the diaphragm wears out. Valves in general, regardless of location, are what I consider a consumable and should be checked as part of regular maintenance. Especially safety valves every time you use it. That little guy is the last line of defense to keep your tank from becoming a bomb, so it's worth tugging on it at least once per use to make sure it's not stuck or corroded into its body. The thing with the cheaper compressors is a lot of people run them like their lawn mower, skipping maintenance almost entirely. Change the air filter, drain the tank daily (avoids rust building up in the tank) Rusty tanks, if left to its own devices, will eventually wear out the bottom and if you're lucky, just create air leaks. It's a design principle that means your tank is worn out, so for the love of yourself and the ones around you, don't be tempted to weld it shut! That will make these things far more dangerous and lead to them exploding as the metal is now doubly compromised. The commercial grade tanks are a lot, LOT thinner than they used to be. Industrial tanks are by nature almost overbuilt and will survive a properly trained weld job, but then again, they also go through periodic testing for safety and performance. If one day you move up to an oil-lubed compressor, use synthetic non-detergent compressor oil and change that every so often as you'll eventually get water contamination, but synthetic does last a bit longer just like it does in combustion engines. Not trying to preach (too much), but I will certainly advise anyone I can to spread knowledge, for eventually that will make a smarter pool of people. That's the hope, anyway! 🤞Good on you for sticking out the repair job nonetheless. My last compressor I ended up getting second, possibly third hand, and ended up only carrying over the compressor pump, motor and the tank. These are the risks we take when we inherit the sins of the previous owner, huh!

this was extremely painful

I like the nature of troubleshooting things . You're not always going to be able to research things. Fantastic video.

I have a craftsman compressor that is fairly similar and i ended up cleaning the reed valves, installing a new gasket kit, and replacing the piston sleeve and ring. Compressor runs like its new.

“That sounds pretty healthy” haha that sounds like a dying dog wheezing his last breath

I really admire your stick-to-itivness, and extreme calm under immense pressure. Well done young man!

great patience with this repair. learned alot from this.

I'm very impressed with your patience!!

I don't buy those cheap ones new but do get them free and cheap broken then fix them for pocket change. When you get ready for an industrial compressor buy used and they're easier than working on cheapies. I do this stuff not just to save money but to know every part of my equipment from when I get it.

Over pressure relief valve is what the bypass valve near the pressure regulator you mentioned.

as a tech, this video made for some good smiles with morning coffee.. Repair vids arent as fun when everything goes super-smooth (i feel), its more likely the normal person will run into pit-falls and "oopses".. This show was light-hearted and enjoyable. Good camera work, and speed-ups worked well too. As a professional tech since the 90's i could see the future haha before it happened here.. but have to say something about it was enjoyable non the less.. good stuff. Peace!!

Good Luck, thx for sharing.

I have a 35 gallon Husky tank with a Speedaire motor and pump. It originally had an oil less motor pump which was loud as heck. I also added a extension on the drain so I can reach it easier. Now it's so quiet I can carry on a conversation standing right next to it! Recently it had an accident and wiped out all the controls! 😩

You could also use the other check valve from the smaller compressor if it is the same my 26 gallon compressor is set at 125psi my thinking is that the relief valve is opening where your compressor is set to 150psi causing it to open so with that said you need to adjust the cutout to a lower pressure

The valve is used to release head pressure when the pump shuts off so the motor can start up not being under a load. The other valve in the tank is the check valve which seals off the tank when the pump shuts off, it may have dirt in it causing it to allow air out of the tank and out the intake.

My Husky compressor started making lots of noise. Sounded like the rod was knocking. So, I decided to let r rip until it blew. It decided to not compress any more, so I decided to see what blew. Pulled off the cover and found the plastic fan had broken and fell off. It was rattling against the rotating parts. So, what happened was it got hot and the plastic seal on the piston stuck to the side of the piston. The seal was smaller than the cylinder. I carefully slowly pulled the plastic away from the piston. Put it back together, and used the other hole in the fan. Has been working fine ever since.

That little valve you didn't know what it does @ 6:30 is the safety pressure valve. It prevents the tank from turning into a bomb if for some reason the motor doesn't shut off at the set PSI and keeps pumping air.

Use grease to hold orings in place

Check valve in the tank inlet, might not need the head reed valves to actually hold tank air from leaking out the intake filter?? I'm not sure if every compressor has always had one or if they are on newer compressors only.

Did you clean out the tubing from the compressor head to the check valve? It might be holding a bunch of debris.

Check valve at end of hose going into tank, stuck maybe

Watch out for those blue and gray capacitors (they are starter capacitors, arent' they?). They can shock you something fierce... deadly even... Some guys short them with an insulated screwdriver before beginning work. I think you can check if they have a voltage by using a multimeter. Just know what its like to get a shock by one!

I Did not take the time to read many comments. You did not change the piston seal while you were that far in it? I picked up a maybe newer version of the Husky. I believe Campbell Haus makes those. I'm having trouble finding parts as The site does not list that exact one. WL 660 22 gallon. In my small place I have a small one like yours under bench which sits outside under a cover and a hose comes into basement into an old 30 gallon tank on wheels that after removing junk motor is now a volume storage tank. Best; Tom

Are you going to connect your 8 gallon tank to your air system to get even more storage capacity? It won't need to be plugged into a power supply. That check valve beraking reminds me of about half my repairs.

I saved this video to show people why they should not try to fix junked air compressors.

What model number is that? Looks exactly the one I have. Got it from a friend and it is not building air.

If air is getting back to the head, check your check valve… The compressor will have restart issues when pressure drops because the check valve is not doing its job.

does any body knows the model of this compressor?

I see Subaru Crosstrek rims

Use "EXTREME" caution when you set your parts on the capacitors like he did here! One false move and it's lights out - forever!

I've got a Craftsman 33 gal set up similarly. I've replace Cylinder Sleeve and piston 'ring'. along with check new valve, and new pressure switch. New copper line from check valve to pressure switch. On and Off's are set just fine. ALL fittings were done with yellow teflon tape as well as pipe dope. Sprayed with soapy water and no bubbles anywhere. It is loosing around 15 lbs every day and I can not find where air is getting out. Once the check valve closes, it should cut off air back to compressor. I've redone this process twice and can not find the leak using bubbly soap water.......... VERY Frustrating.

I have an older Craftsman thats broken. I have not been able to get parts for it anywhere and their customer service is no help either.

trying to set the high pressure to 150 is to high for that compressor

One way check valve, capacitor bad

I would suggest, you do more research before you do another job like that . Think about things more .

This wasn't helpful at all😢

If you are going to repair one of these, you should probably start with a connecting rod kit which includes the piston and gaskets. Oilless compressors use a piston with a teflon ring in contact with the cylinder. If the cylinder gets scored, it will take forever to fill and often overheat. Good find on the weak breaker.