One of the best explained video's ever. I love KZfaq.

Outstanding video and instructions. I replaced the door actuator on my 2007 Ford Ranger today. Mine had 3 screws holding it on. Needless to say when I was finished it had 2 screws holding it on. The back screw is just too hard to get at. Had a hard time lining it up. Spent about an hour on that alone, but once aligned no problem. Saved at least $150 by doing it myself and I'm 74 years old. Thanks Gary

Hey Jackleg. Your video was perfect in assisting me in replacing my actuator. I was quoted $200+ by a major car maintenance chain for that to be replaced. I did it with the help of your video and the part from Auto Zone for $45!!! I hope you keep posting videos like this. I will definitely refer back to you when I need to fix something else.

Excellent work! I was looking for a good troubleshooting process to check *other* things before cutting the plenum to check for a broken blend door. This did it for me!

Thank you for the troubleshooting techniques. Ended up having to replace the blend door anyway.

Thank you for taking the time to explain and share. Getting ready to try it now.

Great video! I am having the same problem ! Thank you for posting this!

Great video! Nice pictures and I really appreciate the help on troubleshooting the switch itself to try and isolate the part that is giving me trouble.

I have to fix my truck soon. It only blows very hot air. Thank you for posting this great video!!😀👍

Great video, very well done! Thank you

Thank you Jackleg for this information, this video really helped me out lots.

My '99 Ranger has this problem. I will tackle it this weekend. It seems a good idea to purchase both items, then return the actuator if the potentiometer replacement fixes it. Thank you.

Great tip to check.. I have a 95 Ford Ranger XL. That has the same symptoms. I'll go out and check damper right now. Just got back and checked. Apparently mine has a cable running from behind the knob to damper. So that's not problem. Might need new thermo, but replaced that 2 years ago.

I liked your presentation. Goes to show that you don't have to use video to make a good descriptive presentation.

Very good video, good explain everything, thanks

Thank you, Sir. Big help for me.

great viv my brother.

What if I am getting heat but for some reason it constantly throwing out heat to the floor vents even if its switched off

Good info, thank you 👍👍👍

Hello Jack. Your videos are really helpful. I just bought a 1996 Range. I went to have it smogged the Tech told me that I needed to perform a drive cycle because it showed some code errors. What would you recommend? Any advice would help. Thank you.

so will work on a 2010 ranger if they are the same parts I have cold air coming out when I wanted to have heat but just cold air instead so I'm thinking this might be my issue I'm having any info will help thanks

FYI. My potentiometer read 4700 on my multitester. All things being different I guessed that was probably good too and it was. 2006 B2300

I need to replace the blend door on my 1997 Ranger, you have a video for that?

any tips if the door is stuck? the actuator works and i have coolant flow through the heater core but still cold air. anything besides cutting a hole?

Thanks

Thanks for the video. I am trying to fix a similar problem with a 96 Explorer that I just got. When I pulled down the glove box, there was no actuator. Some one had already removed it and cut up the heater box. I have a new replacement actuator, but there is nothing on the top of the heater box to secure the new actuator to. Are the posts that yours pressed down onto part of the heater box or a separate piece?

Hi Jackleg... great video.. I'm an amateur at this so I'm trouble shooting each item. When I use the multi meter on the potentiometer I get a reading of 454 at 20K... is that within tolerances? The actuator for the blend door does turn but its kind of wonky (not smooth) and makes a clicky-grindy noise... bad gears perhaps? but it does turn. Also, when I check the temp of the two heater hoses at the firewall, there is a 20 degree temp difference between them (147 and 125). The vacuum valve seems to be working.

Where is the actuator for the knob on the right? My vents have defaulted to defrost and I need to locate the actuator that controls changing the air diversion between floor, vent, A/C, and defrost.

Can anyone help me. My truck, the heat is always stuck on but only when im going at highway speeds or above 50 do I feel the heat. Sometimes it comes out by my feet sometimes the defrost sometimes both. But when I stop moving the heat stops coming out. Very annoying to drive in the summer time

I have an 08 and all I get is heat unless I have max AC on......could this be related to the same components?

I’m not so lucky I have screws and trying to figure out how to get it out…. Hoping I don’t have to take the dash out

Thanks.

Amigo you help me please?

Mine runs constantly? Any ideas

if your actuator and potentiometer both work then that is the reason you cut it open and move it manually. if you don't you pay around 1500 bucks for the garage to fix it

Thanks