Thanks bud

Thanks for the feedback, and thanks for watching!

Thanks Carol!

Guaranteed lol

@@bpbrestorations2093 Im restoring a 64 right now aslo. Ive been watching.

Just remember masking tape is your best friend for straight cuts. Also another tip. Only do 1 quarter at a time so you have a reference back to the other and also it requires less bracing and will move much less.

Rock on 🤘

If you have any questions, hit me up

Thanks Reg, we have fooled a few thinking we had a right hand drive impala lol! As far as experience, I have been the garage since I was old enough to walk. Took 1 year of auto body in high school, Got a job building/repairing fiberglass boats at 18. Took on a second job for an old man that ran his own shop doing restorations for a couple years until he retired. When he retired nearly 12 years ago, I decided to start doing my own thing. All of my business is word of mouth, no advertisements and I have more work than I know what to do with pretty much since I started going hard at it nearly 10 years ago. All I am trying to do here is share my experience and what works for me. Anyone can do this stuff with the right tools and a good teacher.

Good deal man!!! I am peanutbutter jealous!!! Alway wanted a shop with a lift. Keep up the awesome work. Wish you were little closer. Come move to NC then I can get in line for some restore!!! Lol!! Hard to find good honest people to do genuine work.

EDP is efficient on the backside, however if you can undercoat it's never a bad thing.

This is a pretty solid car, I had no worries. If I do I brace it inside with steel so it can't move. I have heard of people having issues but I have never seen any ill effects of doing it on there.

Seam sealer

Very important, dont try it without bracing

Thanks! Generally I try to find 18 gauge replacement metal that is already primed to cut out alot of extra work. As far as quality tho, nothing ever fits like its suppose to. The fun part is making it fit.

A local shop supplies store called BNR equipment sales, in Elwood, Indiana.

Currently I have a eastwood mp250i. Running mild steel .035 wire. I have had it a couple years, beautiful machine highly recommended for the price. However when I first started I used a harbor freight MIG welder and did well with it for years til it burnt up. If you need some welder advice and set up tips check out Fitzees Fabrications here on KZfaq he has a great video that teaches newbies how to weld sheet metal the right way.

AMD for the driver quarter from summit racing sales on ebay. The passenger was from the parts place inc also from ebay but I'm not 100% sure of the maker on it.

Ebay

Absolutely not. Definitely test fitted before welding

Because then you would be changing the panel along side the trunk lid and the new ones are never the same as originals and it generally causes issues with fitment of the trunk lid after it's installed being higher or lower. Just creates more work in the long run in my opinion. Hope that makes sense.

That makes total sense. I'm at this point in my 1962 Impala convertible quarter panel replacement. I too, have the option of cutting right above the side molding line. A friend said I would save time in welding if I made the hard left at the trunk opening. But I agree with you

Absolutely. It is a lot of extra welding but just take your time

Initially around 20k. He has since decided to ls swap, so it went up a bit. I think he is in it around 25-28k tho total.

@@bpbrestorations2093 nice!! I'm building 2 LS 4.8 and 6.0 vortec max. I'm working on them now as we speak lol

Eastwood mp250i

Sweet!

Nothing wrong with the rest of the panel, and from past experience the new quarters around the trunk area never match up and create a whole lot more work trying to get your trunk lid to fit. This had perfect gaps and a very clean fitting trunk lid so the little extra welding and bodywork on the quarter was well worth the time savings.

.035 and yes mig

Should be no different as long as the welds are done properly, and your seams should always have a fiberglass reinforced filler when done.

Goodmark, AMD, ebay, ebay about 80% of the time honestly its usually cheaper by a few hundred, also rockauto

I lap everything if possible.

@@bpbrestorations2093 Great way to trap moisture so rust can come back later

Inner rocker?

I'm a magician

BPB Restorations good one👍

I honestly just noticed I think it's because I use the s8 on forward facing mode maybe?

Roughly 4k

@@bpbrestorations2093 Thanks

Imo it's easier to bodywork the new seam, rather than it is to peel away the old stamped portion of the upper quarters and mate it all back together. 9 times out of 10 the stampings never match factory and then that changes the height and dimensions of the gaps for the trunk lid. There is 0 problems with the fitment or gaps on my deck lid now so I do not wanna alter that. Hope this makes sense.

@@bpbrestorations2093 rear quarter was replaced on my 64 Impala 30 years ago and that seam like you did has been nothing but trouble. Keeps rearing its ugly head.

I'm not dogging anyone's work but I would say without a doubt it was just a bad weld/prep job. I have literally cut cars up in every way imaginable and pieced them together without issue. I have some still winning shows 10 years later, no issues.

Yeah with all due respect butt welding is the best way to go

They are sweet rides!

Honestly, ebay, rockauto.com, for most of my panels.

Hey thanks man. I noticed the trunk floor you bought is very different then the one I purchased. The one you have have is closer to the stock one which in each corner goes up and shapes to fit the ends of quarter panels and trunk drop/filler. Is it dynacorn? Looks like it’s weld threw coated as well.

Yes it was dynacorn and I purchased from ebay

Did you have to do any heating up or shaping to those corners? Mine are dynacorn too man but way different 😏

I did not

Yep, there was nothing wrong with the part we saved of the original. And not changing the panel all the way up to the trunk lid will keep the original flawless trunk lid to quarter gaps in perfect condition. Wont have to refit or flush it out. Win, win.

@@bpbrestorations2093sounds like the right thing to do thank you

Pretty much a one man operation here right now so its rough remembering to even record sometimes while trying to get stuff out the door. Lol. I am definitely working on that and have been trying to do better. Thanks for the feedback.

BPB Restorations Understandable. Regardless I’m going to follow your progress. Looks like it’s going to be an awesome build..

Hey man thanks for the great video and info do have a question on the passenger side quarter why did you flange the quarter panel on instead of butt welding it? Im trying to do the same on a rusty convertible but do know where its best to cut all the way to the snap trim or lower underneath the moulding and butt weld not sure i basically gota replace the whole back end any info/feedback is greatly appreciated thanks.

@@dave9271 I always shy away from any butt welding on sheet metal at almost all cost. It's a pain in the rear to bodywork and requires you to use a ton of filler trying to hide the warp from the heat. However if more of your quarter is rotted than I replaced then you will need to take it higher on yours then there is nothing wrong with welding it up under the trim like you were talking. If you have anymore questions you can also PM me on facebook BPB Restorations.

@@bpbrestorations2093 hell yeah thanks alot man appreciate your time.

Full car frame off start to finish is around 30k, and thats no interior work!

Goodmark, or ebay usually.

Yea for sure

Most cases you are correct, you would want to butt weld. The old cut and butt method. However, It is just my opinion on these great big quarter panels on some of these larger cars to lap them. I always have better results, less filler, less warpage, and straighter panels. When done correctly you can not even see a seam on the back side, no welds to grind in the back just nice straight panels.

I do not have it anymore, sorry bud

Average....... $2000-$2500 range.

@@bpbrestorations2093 Each?

Both

Phone number please i have a 64 the needs alot body work

7654803185

It was pretty shot, I usually save all I can. But don't knock on the Japanese, they make good stuff. Chinese on the other hand.......

Cbuckner0859@gmail.com or business phone 7654803185

Sorry bud I do not have it.

@@bpbrestorations2093 I wouldn’t know if I didn’t ask thank you sir have a blessed day

Hmm that's weird I wonder why they sell flange tools?

Been doing this almost 20 years now bud, I kinda know what works and what don't. But thanks

@@bpbrestorations2093 now you have to worry about corrosion in between the two pieces of metal and also now the metal is thicker and it's harder to work if you don't know how to successfully butt weld just say it!

@@bpbrestorations2093 just because they sell a tool dumbass doesn't mean it's the correct way to do shit hell you can definitely get the job done by flanging it but that doesn't mean you won't have any harder time down the road there's right ways to do shit and there's wrong ways to do shit unfortunately you being is dumb as you are don't want to accept the fact that you've done it the wrong way and again if you don't know how to butt weld just say it

I butt weld nearly everything, except big ass quarters. Learned my lesson about that years ago. Btw corrosion between has never been an issue. It's called weld thru primer. Hold still kid ill teach you something.