Yoooo, your intake side cam gear spun when you torqued it down, how were you able to match the timing marks up when it moved ? Check your timing dudeeee

And stop putting your spark plugs in with an impact!!! 😫😫😫😫😫😫

@@m.m.aautos6608 i was just about to comment that

It didn't look like you set the Cam gears to top dead center before removing them. D:

Thanks for the heads up. I ended up swapping to some stock cam gears.

Saw it to I was like shitt bouta blow up

I’m 100% trying that next. It still leaks :/

@@boosted_john try only using only 20 or 15 ft lbs on the bolts. rubber gaskets blow out at higher bolt tension...

felpro is trash oem is mahle.

@@majinrvby2258 felpro is trash, except for their multi layer oil pan gasket. I swear by oem gaskets and seals, but nothing beats felpro's multi layer oil pan gasket

Love you bae. Let’s keep crushing it ❤️

@Boosted John don't sleep on that ring, not talking about piston rings this time.

Can girlfriends be this chill and supportive? Is this real? Am I being punk'd?

Thanks mom! LY

Comments like this make me happy. Keep pushing bro 🤙🏼

Thanks Stuart!

Ayyy! CSS gang 🤙🏼

said the same thing

It did jump I watched it it’s not zero

If the motor blew we now know why 😂

I’ll try to gather all info and post it somewhere.

Did you ever post this?

Thank you!

Um, PFI? BoostedBoys? American Garage? Young Static? There's others out there to.

It was fun! A bit annoying when I forgot the head alignment dowels, but otherwise great time. What are you building?

@@boosted_john I want to do pretty much what you’re up to 90s Honda Power goal 600 b series (full build) Big turbo.. You know the drill Currently driving a big turbo Veloster N but wanna sell it and get a “normal” car and then do a fun car … big turbo car as only car is kinda sketchy. It’s like … ok.. is today the day … eek 😱 I don’t know if I wanna buy a built long block but after seeing your vids maube a built short block so I can do some of it myself. I’ve never buolt a motor before. I got mad respect when I saw u tackle this and the prior builds with zero experience at this shit. What is your background? How did u get the wiring sorted? I’ll prolly do this in the winter It’s time for riding now. And I gotta wait for some money to show up I do see built cars alreay but it’s not as enticing. I want to do some of the work. Not gonna lie tho bro… nervous it’ll be another half assed car listed for sale that someone didjt finish. I think realistic expectations on a timeline would be important.. seems like “oh ok it’ll take a few days …” Yea no . Prob a year

​@@geraldgoodiii6993 any updates? you end up doing that build?

It’s running and the video just went live! Check it out!

Chu papi muneño 😩

Ended up swapping some stock ones on later.

It was almost exactly a year!

@DJkirakira I can’t do the giveaway right now due to working a full time job. I have not forgotten about it tho.

Both probably haha. If I can do it, you can do it. Just takes patience and persistence.

Ram horn from eBay. Brand is 1320. That turbo was junk. Currently running a precision 5858. Much better.

It’s called copper spray. It’s a high temp gasket maker kinda. Used it on the head gasket since LS VTEC is notorious for leaking from the corner of the head gasket by the trans.

oem everything 1) honda has millions of hours in r&d with the best power per liter / bang for buck w/ reliability to boot 2) STOCK ECU no point in changing anything while rebuilding head (increase flow change lift/duration) that your computer cant account for let alone make the most of. more air more fuel w/ well timed spark for complete burn is what makes power stock ecu will "think" more air or more fuel means something is wrong vs ability to tune ecu for proper a/f ratio and ignition for additional air plus fuel

How do you make it not leak? Mine still leaks by the oil pump…

@@boosted_john I used a very thin layer of hondabond then let it set up for a few minutes then wiped it damn near flat. Other than that I switched from the rubber only gaskets to the blue felpro molded rubber with metal gasket. I honestly think it was just dumb luck. I was at the end of my rope though man, hoping yours holds up this time!

@@TunerThings @Boosted John guys cant stress this enough you need fel pro OS 30630 T. hondabond or any other sealant is only making it worse even more so if not torqued properly. im even running after market moroso pan which is known to not be perfectly flat with fel pro permadry plus and hondabond only in the correct spots no leaks even reusing multiple times. here is from speedfactory they use the same gasket on the fastest FWD & AWD civic in the world. " As with any engine, leaks can develop as time and miles go by. The oil pan gasket is a common leak found on the B series engines - unfortunately, many owners or shops may try to tighten the oil pan bolts to stop the leak. This makes matters worse, as the oil pan on these engines have raised dimples that are stamped in the flange to prevent over compression of the gasket on the assembly line. By tightening the bolts beyond the original torque specification, these dimples can be crushed and the oil pan sealing flange can deform, creating leak paths and will resulting in an even worse leak! At this point, the OE-style oil pan gasket design will no longer work, because it relies on the correct formed dimples to prevent over compression of the gasket. In this case, there are two options - replace the pan at over $100, or install the new Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus oil pan gasket - OS 30630 T. Unlike OE-style gaskets for these engines - including many sold within the aftermarket - the new Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus oil pan gasket features a rigid, steel-core construction and built in torque limiters that prevent over-compression of the gasket and overtorquing of the oil pan bolts, FYI - Installation TipThe OE gasket does have two compression limiters molded into it - they can be found only on the transmission side of the pan. When removing the old gasket, these limiters can be left behind, stuck to the pan. If these limiters are left in place, the limiters built into the Fel-Pro gasket will stack on top of them and result in an oil leak. Be sure to inspect and remove them when cleaning the flange. Like every Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus gasket, the OS 30630 T must be installed on clean and dry sealing surfaces, with NO sealers, adhesives, or RTV applied to the gasket. The repair manual replacement procedure instructions should be followed for this gasket, as with all Fel-Pro gaskets unless otherwise noted. As directed by the repair manual for these applications, there are 4 areas on the engine block where RTV must be applied - the two joints created by the oil pump and the two joints created by the right side cover. RTV is needed at these points because the components coming together creates a joint which no gasket can “flow” into. A little bit of RTV will get on the gasket when the gasket and pan are placed on the block, which is ok as long as RTV is not applied ANYWHERE ELSE. Fel-Pro oil pan Snap-Ups® are included with the set and are a clean, simple and effective way to speed up the oil pan gasket installation. Simply thread them into the block where the oil pan bolts go, snap the oil pan gasket in place, then the pan itself and start threading the bolts in. Once the oil pan is secure, the Snap-Ups are easily removed and are reusable.

@@boosted_john guys cant stress this enough you need fel pro OS 30630 T. hondabond or any other sealant is only making it worse even more so if not torqued properly. im even running after market moroso pan which is known to not be perfectly flat with fel pro permadry plus and hondabond only in the correct spots no leaks even reusing multiple times. here is from speedfactory they use the same gasket on the fastest FWD & AWD civic in the world. " As with any engine, leaks can develop as time and miles go by. The oil pan gasket is a common leak found on the B series engines - unfortunately, many owners or shops may try to tighten the oil pan bolts to stop the leak. This makes matters worse, as the oil pan on these engines have raised dimples that are stamped in the flange to prevent over compression of the gasket on the assembly line. By tightening the bolts beyond the original torque specification, these dimples can be crushed and the oil pan sealing flange can deform, creating leak paths and will resulting in an even worse leak! At this point, the OE-style oil pan gasket design will no longer work, because it relies on the correct formed dimples to prevent over compression of the gasket. In this case, there are two options - replace the pan at over $100, or install the new Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus oil pan gasket - OS 30630 T. Unlike OE-style gaskets for these engines - including many sold within the aftermarket - the new Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus oil pan gasket features a rigid, steel-core construction and built in torque limiters that prevent over-compression of the gasket and overtorquing of the oil pan bolts, FYI - Installation TipThe OE gasket does have two compression limiters molded into it - they can be found only on the transmission side of the pan. When removing the old gasket, these limiters can be left behind, stuck to the pan. If these limiters are left in place, the limiters built into the Fel-Pro gasket will stack on top of them and result in an oil leak. Be sure to inspect and remove them when cleaning the flange. Like every Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus gasket, the OS 30630 T must be installed on clean and dry sealing surfaces, with NO sealers, adhesives, or RTV applied to the gasket. The repair manual replacement procedure instructions should be followed for this gasket, as with all Fel-Pro gaskets unless otherwise noted. As directed by the repair manual for these applications, there are 4 areas on the engine block where RTV must be applied - the two joints created by the oil pump and the two joints created by the right side cover. RTV is needed at these points because the components coming together creates a joint which no gasket can “flow” into. A little bit of RTV will get on the gasket when the gasket and pan are placed on the block, which is ok as long as RTV is not applied ANYWHERE ELSE. Fel-Pro oil pan Snap-Ups® are included with the set and are a clean, simple and effective way to speed up the oil pan gasket installation. Simply thread them into the block where the oil pan bolts go, snap the oil pan gasket in place, then the pan itself and start threading the bolts in. Once the oil pan is secure, the Snap-Ups are easily removed and are reusable.

Yeah. And bearings.

@@boosted_john nice i just got a b16a block and crank that i want to send out to get sleeved. Either benson or golden eagle. How much did you pay?

It’s a single head gasket. It’s just multilayered.

Got one!

@@boosted_john just saw this lol awesome great choice just go easy on hondabond only in 4 corner spots and tq to spec youll be golden