If I remember high school correctly this is true science! Hypothesis, experiment, and results all well explained.

Fantastic there are people like you guy doing these experiments.

i have been in the building industry for over 35 years. Epoxy mixed with A LOT of sawdust is the best method. First, reason is it will generally accept stains better than traditional wood glues. Second, in time many woods change color. They will lighten (like dark walnut) or darken (like cherry). epoxy allows this transition to happen with the area filled at the same rate as the furniture piece, wood glue tends to not allow this natural process to happen then you have a flaw that sticks out a year or two later.

The CA does work when you brush dry sawdust in the joint first and then apply some drops of CA on top and let it soak in, make sure the crack is filled a bit proud so that after sanding an even surface is achieved.

Thanks so much for doing this video. There are countless ones that cite there various methods suggesting they work great. Your video provides an objective assessment.

I use amber shellac to mix with the dust. Seems to work very well for me.

I lived in the Middle East for many years and traded in Pakistan high end furniture. My Pakistani carpenter used to pour dry fine rosewood sawdust into cracks on rosewood furniture. Then he ran a bead of superglue on top of the sawdust filled crack. After sanding you couldn't even see the crack. You can't mix the stuff and apply it. Just fill your crack with sawdust and then run your superglue over it to saturate it.

Titebond 3 from a distance looks the best

I wonder what a sealer would look like with the tung oil and saw dust.??

Down here we use what it's roughly translated as "carpenter's glue" or "white glue", wich is a vinyl adhesive and it's been the standard for wood working for ages. It's white before it's cured but it becomes translucid when dry, so you just mix that with sawdust and it won't change the color of your sawdust much, so it tends to keep the same tone of the wood. but by having a vinyl base it's not very absorbent tho'

I recently tried using glue and fine dust from my sander bag. I needed to fill some knots on some English Oak. However, the substance dried black albeit the dust was a light beige colour. I’ll give it another good using the two part adhesive.

Also, what really matters is what it looks like after you put some varnish or whatever over it.

This was really good. My dog chewed up both sides of my stairwell (stringer boards) and I need to fill them in. I don't have any sawdust but that's what I want to use. Maybe I'll see if the hardware store will let me take some of theirs. I thought the Titebond III looked best. Once you redrew the lines I had trouble seeing if you drew over the new glue or next to it or whatever. So I focused on the smaller cracks you made. Thx for the video.

tested sanding a piece of curly birch, this filled cracks with compacted dust, added ca glue on top, cured, sanded, end result not bad, not bad at all, thinking a shiny finish to go with that

Excellent project. Next, do one comparons différent ratios of glue to dust, as you imply therein may lie the solution. Very valuable work. You don't even try ordinary white wood glue, but it would be nice to see just how bad it turns out. And is there no colourless glue, not necessarily for wood, that you could try? Appreciated.

This was exactly what I was looking for before filling some cracks. Thanks for taking the time to make this comparison. It really helped.

Interesting, as it happens I am restoring an antique Mahogany dresser probably made locally in the 1800s. Drawer sides, back and bottom are solid Australian Cedar (Toona Ciliata not a true cedar), All the finished parts are Mahogany. There were several sources & species of Mahogany during that century, but as the imported wood, it held the greatest prestige over native timbers at that time, hence the Toona Ciliata drawer internals WOW. Anyway, I have some filling to do so your comparison is timely. I found a piece of what looks like mahogany to use for repairs, same colour & grain type anyway. I tried making filler with sanding dust & Shelaqua (a water bases shellac substitute) which looked great when 1st applied but went very pale when dry. Interestingly, one Mahogany part (a cupboard shelf) had chemical stains, so I striped that to sand out stains in the timber surfaces. On applying 1 coat of Shelaqua, the surface went very pale indeed. Applied a maple stain over that 1st coat and another coat of shelaqua & it came out a good match with the existing finish.

If you fill the crack with the dust and use thin CA glue it works great.

I took a fine arts woodworking class with a world renowned artist. I never saw him use anything but regular white Elmer's glue. He also finished all his work with linseed oil. The more coats the better. But he would sand between coats when dry. If a piece would get scratched he would just sand out that spot and add linseed oil. Very often the simplest answers the best answer.

Agree with the epoxy makes sense because it's clear takes on the colors you need perfect.